Tools; The Head-Halter

Known amongst Positive Reinforcement "trainers" as a kind and gentle way to stop "any" dog from pulling, the head-halter has become almost a staple in dogdom these days.

 They work on the simple principle that if you control the snout end of the dog (the head), you can gain control over the rest of the body.  Exactly like a halter for a horse. 

They can be a wonderful way to keep a hound's over-active nose off the ground, so you actually can get her focus enough to realize what you are asking.

They can be a fantastic way to teach a puppy how to follow you (there are some assistance dog organizations that have moved away from using choke chains in favor of these), and on the right dog, they can be a valuable tool to help break the focus of a reactive dog, and get them on the road to non-reaction.

Here again, is a Tool that can easily be misused.
This is not a tool for a dog that launches himself to the end of the lead with such force that he sometimes either yanks you down, or flips himself over.  The head-halter attaches to the dog's skull, and the skull is attached to the vertebrae of the neck.  A dog moving at high velocity to the end of the leash in a head-halter, is at risk of snapping it's neck.

This is not a tool designed to be "popped" or "yanked" by the human.  I see Humans all the time yanking quickly and snapping the head of the dog in a twisting motion, as they say "NO!" or "Leave IT!"  You can hurt your dog.

 Don't do this. 
Wrapping the leash around your hand and using an upward force to stop the dog is extremely uncomfortable for a dog wearing a head halter.  Not to mention, it causes undue strain to your shoulder and arm (odd angle for tension). 

You aren't really teaching the dog anything here except where the end of a very short amount of leash is. 

Do This.
(yes, I know the dog in the photo is not wearing a head halter, but it was virtually impossible to locate a good example of proper hand position)

Carry your arm as though you were holding an empty suitcase or briefcase.  Low and relaxed at your side; yes, even if your dog is a puller---this is where technique comes in to teach the dog what you want. 

As with any Tool, unless you are also applying good technique, you aren't really teaching the dog anything.  The head-halter is a guiding tool; it is meant to guide the dogs' head where you want it to be.  Slapping it on his face and expecting it to work (and it might at first) in the long run, it will fail.  The moment you take it off, or it breaks, you and your dog are back to square one:  He pulls.

 
 Proper fit is important.  This halter is too tight.  The dog cannot open its mouth to pant fully.
But he pulls it off his face!
Then you aren't doing your job as a Teacher, or your "trainer" hasn't shown you how to stop your dog from getting free of this device.  They SHOULD  be relatively easy for the dog to pull off with its paws; if not, you are using it wrong.


This dog is wearing a different style of halter, but you notice how much more comfortable he looks?
His human took the time to adjust him to the device, and it is fit almost perfectly.  The strap that lays just behind the ears should probably be a bit more snug, so that it stays behind the ears.

If your "trainer" has told you to tighten this thing so much that the dog cannot slip out of it, you are strangling him with the head strap. 

 This is a better example of a properly fit head-halter.  Notice the dog can open its mouth to its full extent.  Your dog should be able to bark, bite, pick up a tennis ball, or chew on a bone in a halter.





Walking in a halter requires technique in order to actually teach the dog something other than "with this on my face, I am incapable of pulling.....you just wait 'til I'm free."


While I applaud this Human for taking an extra step (the double ended leash attached to both a harness and a halter---sometimes it's necessary) this Human also has the harness on backwards, and the dog is obviously STILL leading the walk.

This is a great example of a Human allowing the device to do its job, but not doing the job of Teacher.  The moment this dog is out of this contraption, this animal will Still Pull.

If your dog is wearing a head-halter, it is not time for social interaction.  He may be around other dogs, but it is time for him to focus and respect you on the walk, not to playfully interact with limited physical responses.  You are crippling his natural way of being, and he could get himself into a fight; the head-halter restricts natural body posturing and reactions. 

NEVER USE A HEAD HALTER ON A BRACHYCEPHALIC (a dog with a smushy face, or extremely short muzzle) DOG  !!!!!!!

These dogs have enough trouble breathing due to their shortened nasal passages.  The extra pressure of the head halter's design (and I don't care what your "trainer" said) can cause them some serious issues.



So what's this "Technique" I have to use with this halter thing now?

Well, begin by making sure your dog actually likes wearing it.  Don't just go to the store, slap it on and go:  You'll get a lot of diving, pawing, rolling on the ground, sometimes they just give up and lay down, etc.  Rather, find the right size for your dog, then spend the next few days putting it on, feeding your dog something yummy, or giving them a great toy for a few moments, then take it off.  Dinner is a great time to do this, if your dog loves eating.  Just put the halter on, feed your dog, and take it off.

Once your dog is used to wearing the halter, and has been rewarded for putting up with you sticking that weird thing on his face, it is time to enroll in a class geared towards your goals. 

Let's Talk About Tools.... (graphic and hard to look at photos today; read at own risk)

                             Alright, who's seen this little baby rolling around the interwebs?
Damage caused by a prong collar.  Known as a "pinch" or "correction" collar in some circles.  In others, they are called "medieval" or "torturous," and they should be banned.  This photograph recently circulated across the net like crazy, prompting people in the UK to demand that Amazon UK stop selling these dangerous collars because of the injury they obviously cause. 

This damage was caused by a cruel, insensitive, un-educated, mean, nasty, HUMAN.  It's like the old "guns don't kill people, People kill people argument, but it holds true.  The prong collar is a Tool.  And just like any tool, it can be misused and lead to painful injury and even death.  Yes, I said Death.  The trouble with the prong, isn't that it causes that kind of thing when used; they wouldn't still be selling them in stores where any idiot can buy them with no instructions what-so-ever if they did. 

The trouble with the prong just happens to be that it is not a tool for all dogs or humans to use.  If you are using it correctly, on the dog who needs it (and we are not talking aggressives---in some cases, you can make that much worse by using a device that is designed to cause discomfort--and we are certainly not talking about dogs with fear issues.....).

The dog in the picture with holes in his neck?  That collar was obviously cinched down waaaaay too tight to begin with, and the dog was allowed to grow into the prongs.  There wasn't any room for his skin and muscles to grow, so the prongs were forced slowly into his body....terrible, right?

 

What about this ?  Should we remove all rope leashes and collars from our online stores and pet stores because the jerk who "owned" this dog tied it to her neck when she was small and allowed it to do this to her?

And can you imagine what this wound looked like before it healed?  This was caused by a chain left to sink its way slowly into this beautiful animals skin; rotting the flesh as it went.  I have intentionally not posted some of the more immediate removal photographs, as they churn even my stomach, and my point is to have you read this entire article. 

Think a body harness causes less pain and damage to your dog????
Not when you leave it to grow into the animal.







Anything can cause the sort of damage we saw in that first photograph of the dog with the prongs in its neck.  The Human, once again, is responsible. 

Now, let's talk about how to properly fit a prong.  Can't just rant about how awful something is, unless you are prepared to offer solutions, right?

Ok, for starters, not the best idea to use one that has a "quick release" snap on it. The little thing on the chain that looks like tweezers in the pictures.

I know those large links can be next to impossible to slip on and off, but those snaps are really only good for actual field work, with actual working dogs.  If you can't to the links, look for a lighter link; yes, even for the big dogs.  Or look for a collar that has a different kind of quick release snap, if your teacher and you feel your dog really does need a heavy collar.   For your every-day issues (and I do so hope you are learning from a good professional if you choose this for your situation) there is too much room for error and escape.  That's right, I said escape.  The quick-release snaps don't take much pressure to release, and if your leash clip, or the dog's body, or your own, presses it when you need that collar the most, and suddenly, the prong is now not attached to your dog...oh, but that's what a Safety Collar is for.

Your Safety Collar is worn with the prong collar.  Its entire function is to keep your dog attached to your leash, should the links on the prong come apart.  And they do come apart.  Over time, the links can become closer together on the prong side, and occasionally, those links can disconnect.  If you are not using a safety backup, you run a risk of having your dog become free and chase down the thing you were trying to prevent him reaching. 

You may use this setup for years and never have a break away, but the chance is there, so please use both.  The collar on the bottom, the black one, is referred to as a "dominant dog" collar; they are different than the simple nylon slip noose (pink) in that they serve yet another function, but we are only talking prongs today.

This is what your setup should look like, if you are properly fit and using the right equipment.  Now you can use just one, regular leash, and clip the leash to both the prong 'mushroom' and the slip collar's ring, but if you can either find a double clipped leash (like the one in the picture) or even a double-ended leash, that would be best.  Notice the positioning?  The prong is high on the neck, below the ears, and is snug, but not tight, so that when you issue a correction, you are not using a lot of force. 

The slip collar is large and loose enough to ride low on the neck.  It is only a backup plan, so when you correct with the prong, the slip actually does absolutely nothing to the dog:  It literally is like a seat-belt in a car; sits there until needed.

And now, what not to do:

Ah yes, my least favorite set-up in the entire universe.  The prong collar-retractable leash combo.  Nothing says "i love and respect you dog" like giving them space to sniff and explore, all while leaning into the prongs on a tool meant to stop the forward pulling motion. 

Granted, it is a light pull, but it is still defeating the very idea of a corrective collar. 

The only thing more sad than this, is when I see it attached to a dog wearing a prong, attached to a Human riding a bicycle.  I mean, really people, that is tragedy waiting to happen...no, wait, giving the prong attached to a retractable, to a CHILD to hold on to the dog with no manners about pulling...That.  That is my least favorite set-up ever.

This collar is clearly too large for this dog.  The links are heavy, the collar can be placed over the head for removal (which I'm sure is what happened when they bought it) and the amount of force needed to get any cessation in pulling behavior is probably way over the top.

                                                                                                     Lovely right?  Who does this?!  Unfortunately, I have run into more then just one Human who is working with a so-called "expert" in whatever breed they have chosen, and that "expert" told them to put a prong collar on their puppy.  Then this "expert" didn't bother to show them any kind of proper correction, and this little creature who is brimming with curiosity, and the attention span of well, of a puppy, keeps accidentally slamming into the end of this collar.  Or this "expert" doesn't bother to show the Human how to hold a leash, so the pup winds up yanked around still in front of the person holding the strap attaching them to each other, yelping or crying every time.  This makes me sick.  This is abuse.  If you see someone doing this, I hope you are brave enough to say something to that poorly informed Human (kindly please) and I hope your doing so helps change their mind about strapping a corrective tool like this to a baby.

Oh this is a good one.  I love (not at all) that the prong is attached to a flat collar.  How many times have you seen a dog escape from the flat regular style collar?  And honestly, if your flat collar is tight enough for your 

 dog not to escape from, it's probably too tight, and you're kind of suffocating him all the time... Not only that, but this set-up makes any kind of correction wrong because the Huge Clip ruins the proper function of the prong.  Also, the prong in this photo is on the wrong side of the dog....Way to go Human, way. to. go.

 

                                                              And finally,
STOP LETTING YOUR PRONG COLLAR WEARING DOG PLAY WITH OTHER DOGS.
Sorry, this one really gets my goat.  I see this far, far too often.  You are setting your dog up for bad behaviors and failure.  I go to dog parks and I see dogs running and wrestling in the field wearing their prong collars....Why?  Nothing like diving into a friend to play in the dirt, only to have the corrective collar dig into your neck:  Was that my friend that bit me?  Should I react aggressively?  Or should I just avoid playing altogether because every time I do, my neck hurts.....  It is just a stupid thing to do.

These things are designed as tools, let's learn to use them properly if we are going to use them at all.  Next time, another Tool will be discussed. 

Spoiled? Dominant? Just Trying to Do His Job?

It's interesting how the Universe seems to be always in sync; whether it be good or bad or just plain idiotic...

I've seen and received some questions about what qualifies as your dog attempting to be "dominant" over you...well, here we go:

My dog wants to sleep on the bed with me, and my trainer says I shouldn't allow it because it will spoil my dog...

That's crap.  Period.  Dogs and puppies bond most intensely when they are sleeping on top of, next to and with the rest of their pack members.  Denying them this right is a personal choice.  It is not required that you keep your dog on the floor, in its own bed or crate, in order to remain in the Pack Leader position. 

Using a crate to assist you when you are housetraining a new dog won't ruin your relationship with your dog either.  Nor will insisting that the dog must sleep on the floor, or in its own bed space.  That is up to You, Pack Leader.  You get to choose where the lesser members sleep.

Bearing this in mind, you DO have a problem if your dog is being disrespectful of your sleeping space.  If you've ever tried to get in bed with your wife/husband, and the dog won't let you.....
If you try to shove the dog out of the way 'cuz he's in your spot, and he growls at you.....
If your dog won't allow any other pets on the bed when they are up there....
Those are indicators that you may have an issue with a dog who believes they are higher ranking in the pack then they should be.  Not that you have "spoiled" the dog.
If your dog is presenting that kind of response, then it's time to take away the resource:  The Bed.  Time to begin a training regime and routine that puts you back on top, in the dog's mind. 

My dog climbs on my lap when I'm trying to watch t.v. and gets close to my face.  He isn't licking me, but when I try to push him down, he stiffens, growls real low, and stares me in the eyes....

Ummm, yeah.  You have a real problem brewing there.  Direct refusal to stop invading your body space in a stiff-body posture kind of way, is a nasty bite to the face waiting to happen. 

Every time I try to pet my other dog, she pushes her way in-between us...She has such a jealous streak!.....

Not particularly.  It has more to do with your dog believing she has a higher rank in the pack then the other dog, and perhaps even you.  The highest ranking member of the household has all the right in the world to choose when and who they give attention to; the lower members do not have the right to just jam up in there and demand love and affection when they decide it should happen.

If this is happening in your household, stop petting them both!!!  Use your body to block the dog who is pushing her way into the affection time, (it may take a few repetitions and EVERYONE in the house has to do the same thing if she's doing it when they pet the other dog) and continue to pet the dog you were petting in the first place.  Only when you have decided it is time to pet her, should she get affection.  If the other dog shoves in there, do the same.  It is Your decision, not theirs.

My dog refuses to come when he's called.  My trainer says it's because he is Dominant....
My dog won't stop barking at everything when we walk, and pulls me down the street.  My trainer says he is trying to be Dominant.....
My dog doesn't like strangers in the house, it's because he's Dominant; my trainer says so.....

Get another trainer. 
That one is misusing the term Dominant.  These are the kinds of "trainers" that blame Dominance when they are out of ideas.  Most dogs are not dominant in personality at all.  You force them to try to be in a more dominant role, because you aren't doing your job as Leader.  They feel like Somebody has to run things, and if you're not doing it, they will try.

I see it so very often where a dog with a soft personality, and some fear issues has had to take on the role of protector, and they are handling it very poorly because they really don't want that role.  As soon as we get the Human taking control of the situation, the dog relaxes and literally begins making soft eye-contact and sweet gestures to people they were reacting ridiculous to just moments ago.  It's not so much a 'dominance' issue, as a handling problem.

As for pulling and barking at everything when you walk.....Dominance has nothing to do with that either.  Your dog is simply reactionary and out of control because you haven't learned how to properly walk him.  He has no idea what is expected of him, because, up until now, you have allowed him to lead you (albeit loudly and roughly) down the street.  Why do you think he's still pulling?  Because you're still moving forward.  You're still following him. He thinks he's doing the acceptable thing. 

But we put him in a prong collar and he STILL pulls!  

And that's a discussion about Tools and their proper application per personality, issue faced, and general dynamic between you and your dog....Another time  :)

New Favorite Dog Park

 Elk Meadow Off Lead Dog Exercise Area, Evergreen CO

Totally worth the hour or so drive it took us to get there.

I woke up wanting to just hike the mountains without the restriction of having to have the boys leashed, and that is just what I found.

 Tons of space.....107 acres to be exact.  And all of it just gorgeous!

Interestingly enough, we ran into several German Shepherds, and more then just a few Pitbulls....Nice to see them out in public.  I currently reside in a Breed Specific zone, and this park (and the amazing county it resides in) has shut down the notion that Pitbulls are bad dogs.

They have embraced that it is Responsible Ownership that makes all the difference; and it shows.  We met a lovely little red rocketship named Emma.  She must have had jet fuel for breakfast because in all that space, she looped us twice!

 The only concern I had was Ticks.  It has finally warmed up enough for the bugs to start searching for meals.

Our whole hike and the boys didn't get any on them (they start their yearly meds to avoid it this week) but I did! Gross!

It fell out of my hair in the kitchen hours later. *note to self; Put bug repellant on You too!

This is Rockey telling me how awesome he thought the place was.  Literally stood on that rock, looked around and started growling and singing and just warbling his happy all over the place.  Love this guy!

FAST!

The creek that runs through the bottom is clear and mostly mud on the bottom, so no worries about paws.  Mosquitoes aren't a real worry yet; and really aren't much of an issue here until August, or if you're trying to enjoy a drink on your patio.

The View!

"Seriously Mom, this place is the BEST!  Let's never Leave!"
(ok, I love this photo because it shows off his weird feet!!!)

Gerodi was having so much fun, he forgot to be scared! WIN!

                                                                       Thank You!

The Puppy's Day...or, how to save your sanity and raise a dog:

At 4 to 6 months of age, you are probably wondering what the heck happened to my sweet little puppy who followed me around like I was the best thing EVER.  Well, nothing happened.  Your dog is growing.
This little creature is becoming more and more athletic and independent every day.  Meeting the needs of this dog requires time.  

Now I know that not all of you are Stay at Homes....I'm not either.  But the following is an example of a 'perfect world' scenario if you had nothing else to do but cater your life to this animal.....which you probably should have thought about before you got a dog, but that's neither here nor there.  What is there, is a furry kid with knives and needles in his mouth, and you, oh sweet Human, you have chosen to bring this beast into your home and join your family.

Even if you are working most of the day, take this morning to night ideal and see how close you can get to it.  It may be the difference between losing your mind, and falling even deeper in love with your dog.  If you can't spend your whole life with the pup, increasing exercise (within reason, remember, they're still young) and giving your puppy a safe space to hang out in while you are away are paramount to growing dog success.  

One of my clients opted to buy the XXL wire crate for his Boston Terrier pup, so he'd have an escape proof place to play around when he couldn't be there to watch him:  Brilliant!  

Having a backyard can make your life a bit easier, but do not treat the backyard as a substitute babysitter for the puppy.  You are still in the phase where he will make terrible choices, and if you are teaching him things, your backyard is a great training space.  Don't just toss him out and leave him out.  Unless you are planning on having a dog with no manners who pummels your guests with his feet and mouth whenever you have company....

Ok, you ready?  

Alarm @ 7am - Out; poop/pee & chase toys to take the edge off the morning crazies.

7:15a-Breakfast; 

If he finishes, good.  If not, pick up the bowl and save it for later.  He’ll walk away from it if he doesn't want the whole portion. While he is eating, inspect his bedding for damage.  Cut any loose threads; check pillows (or mat, if not using pillows),& check his crate toys for use.

7:30a-8:30a  - After breakfast, put him back in the crate for more sleeping.

8:30a- Out to poop/pee

9a -10’ish - Play/Run/Long Walk

This is VERY important for his health.  This helps keep him in shape.  It keeps his muscles strong to protect his knees, as they are very prone to injury in large breeds.  This also helps make the rest of your day easy ---He will sleep for most of it, if you do this ONE HOUR of exercise in the morning. 

It will help keep him out of trouble.

It will save your shoes....and your coffee table......and your plants......and your socks..and the carpet......and, well, you get the idea...

Puppies who don’t exercise are Trouble.

Playing with other dogs is vital for his social growth and behavior.  But be careful who you allow him to play with. Make sure his playmates are nice dogs who won’t teach him bad habits or aggression.  If you think he is being bullied, or is being a bully, catch him and have him sit quietly for a few moments.  When he has calmed, he may go play with them again, but if he cannot conduct himself, then just leash him and take him for a walk instead.  

Biting and wrestling is normal.  Chasing a dog down and pestering him when he clearly doesn't want anything to do with the other dog is where you, the Human in Charge, must interrupt and control the situation.  If he cannot handle playing with other puppies, adult dogs may be the better option, as they can teach him how to not bite so hard, very quickly.

Be sure you are catering this exercise to his specific physical requirements.  A Labrador is going to need a bit more then a Chihuahua; a St. Bernard may need the time, but at a slower pace to protect his slow-growing bones.  Check with your vet if you are unsure what may be appropriate for your particular dog.

10-10:30a - The rest of breakfast, if there is any.  Then a Chew. Don’t let him chew longer then 30 min. at a time on edible bones/chews.  They can upset his tummy if he eats too much, and get diarrhea.

10:30a - Outside.  He needs to go after chewing.  He may not ask, you just need to assume he needs it, and take him out.  He will go.

10:30’ish - 1pm - Sleeping.  You can leave him out of the crate, as long as you can watch him.  Sometimes, he will get up in the middle of his nap and ask to go out.  If you cannot watch him, he can nap in his crate.

1pm ‘ish (whenever he finally wakes up) - Out to pee/poop again

1-1:30pm - More Chewing/Playtime

2p - Out Again to pee

2p - 5’ish - Hanging out in the crate and sleeping if you have errands to run or something.  Just make sure he’s got his Nylabone Nubby or other  safe crate toy.

-Hanging out with you, if you’re home.  Walk him.

-Use this time with him to pick up all 4 paws and mess with his toes and nails.  It helps him to have this as an ‘every day’ thing, so when he needs to have his nails done, it’s no big deal.

-Look inside his mouth & inspect his teeth.  He is teething and will be losing teeth soon.  Watch for any signs of infection, or discoloration (yellow, or green around the gums, or dark that just looks wrong).  Some bleeding is normal when he chews, as he is loosening his baby teeth.

-If he asks, take him out during this time block.  But watch for signals that he may need to go.

-If he’s sniffing or sitting near the door, take him out.

-If he sits and pants when you know it’s not hot inside, or he whines, he NEEDS to poop!!! Take him out fast!

5:30 -6’ish - Dinner.  Right after dinner, take him out to pee.

6 - 7p- Hanging out/Playing

-He may be getting into a lot of stuff he shouldn't during this time.  Give him a chew, or his frozen Kong and he will be kept busy.

7-7:30 ‘ish - Walk.

-If people approach, stop walking.  Tell him to "Sit" and to “Wait,” and he will sit for them to pet him, assuming you are working on this...You're not?  Well, get on it Man! No time like the present to start teaching that dog some social manners.  If he stands up, tell him “no, Wait” in a kind, but firm tone, and have him sit again.

-Do Not let people touch him until he is sitting; especially children. Keep Kids from grabbing or touching his face.  Most bites happen to children by accident, because the kids don't know how to be kind to a dogs' space; that's your job at the moment.

7:30-9’ish - Chewing and Playing 

9 or 10’ish- Out to poop/pee 

-Into his crate for Bedtime.

Worn out yet?  Just wait, the whole thing begins again tomorrow.  You may have to modify this a bit to suit your particular family, but as close to it as possible gives your puppy the attention and exercise he needs to thrive, and to be a Good Dog.

All positive, all the time?

I run into Humans a lot who want to know what a Balanced Trainer is:  well, being a "balanced" trainer means I offer a consequence when an animal is presenting a conscious decision to Not do a desired behavior that I know he understands how to do.

Those moments your dog pauses and looks over his shoulder before choosing to blast across the street towards your neighbor? And you've spent time to teach him what "come" means, and he Still decides to race the opposite direction? You've "proofed" his stay (or so you thought) and he chooses to break it to ignore you and sniff a tree... These are the moments where, in my opinion , your dog has willingly chosen to defy you. He has earned a consequence.

You have not set yourself up as a reliably consistent pack leader, and in his dog mind, your stupid piece of sausage is not nearly as cool as chasing that herd of deer across the pasture (or squirrels across the park, if you live in a more urban setting).  Knowing what kind of consequence and reward is most appropriate for that particular animal is also a HUGE piece of the puzzle.  Hence my issue with "trainers" who profess to be able to "fix" any issue with a 100% positive approach, or those who won't use rewards at all.

Believing a self-serving species like canines will benefit from learning to work by force alone is wrong (in my opinion). I don't want a slave; I want a dog. One who knows what rules and perimeters he is expected to follow, and what will happen should he choose to ignore those rules.

The following article from Leerburg's Ed Frawley hits the nail on the head (again, in my opinion) .  I was a "trainer" for one of the big-box stores for a while, and what he talks about is so very true. Using their 100% force-free Positive Reinforcement program is a great start...if you plan to spend most of your dogs life controlling the environment around him to such a degree that he, of course, will gladly choose sausage over most alternatives. But at some point, he's going to use his brain...For real.   And when he does, you probably are going to find yourself  holding a chunk of smelly salmon while your dog takes his time returning to you,  after he's finished whatever it is he wants to do; and guess what?  He'll still need that piece of fish.

http://leerburg.com/allpositive.htm?utm_source=nlist&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=05122014

Mace Him!

A note on carrying mace. 
Citronella Dog Mace to be specific. 

I am a Dog person.  I have dogs.  I love dogs.  I do my level best to understand dogs, and I get that you too, are a dog aficionado and cannot imagine hurting a dog on purpose. 
But what about those "other" dog lovers who think the city park is an off-lead zone? 
Or the guy who lives on the corner who thinks his little dog bolting off his driveway to rush into your dogs, is just a dog being friendly?

Those are the Humans that scare me.  I work with Humans who are doing everything in their power to rehabilitate their canines, and almost lose all the ground we've made because some Idiot thinks their dog is "friendly," and doesn't need to be on a leash.

Well, it isn't about your dog being friendly.  It's about MY dog having a problem I'm trying to help.
 

Leash laws exist to keep all dogs safe and controlled.  I just watched a short video of a girl (whom I don't know) trying to walk her dog down her own driveway (this dog could use some Hey Don't Pull Me lessons, but still; he's leashed to her) and as she hits the last 10 or 15 feet of it, her neighbors small dogs come blasting across the street.  Barking and rushing and threatening her and her dog because they believe that is their space!  Now, they are just doing what they see as natural, after all, their owner has allowed them to set up that kind of boundary for themselves.  This girl says she's already spoken to the neighbor politely, and still, no control on her dogs.  What happens if the drive is icy (it's quite a hill) and the responsible owner slips?  Her larger dog is now free to defend what he sees as his, and these small dogs may be seriously injured.  If this were to occur, and the police were called, guess who'd probably be in trouble.....The responsible girl.  Her dog is a pitbull.

I have another family I am working with, who have taken all the necessary steps to ensure the safety of their dog when they take him for walks.  He suffers from leash aggression (getting better all the time) and has been known to displace that frustration on his Humans; he wears a basket muzzle when he is out.  They go out of their way to step waaaay to the side and work him as other Humans pass on the trails.  This dog is progressing wonderfully. 
Last visit, they asked for help with "off lead dogs" being allowed to approach him.  They aren't walking him in a zone where being off lead is permitted, and yet, neighbors and other Humans who use that park area seem to think it's perfectly ok to allow their dog to rush up to an animal clearly wearing a muzzle and being controlled off the path.
They had even called out to the owners of the dogs who were being allowed to approach.
"Excuse me, our dog is not good with other dogs.  Can you get your dog please?"

"That's ok, Mine's friendly."

..........................what?!...........................

Citronella Dog Mace.
As much as I would hate to have to use it, I would.  In a heartbeat. 
I call out to you that my dog is aggressive, or can't handle your dogs' approach, and you tell me he's friendly.  I'm going to then call out "I'm going to mace him!"  At which point you, the irresponsible Human who aren't following the rules and are putting my dog in jeopardy, can either get your dog away from mine, or I will spray your dog with a concentrated blast of citronella and send him packing.  At which point, you may have to go searching for him wherever he ran away to.  Which will most likely make you want to blame me for making your dog run away, but hey, if he'd have been on a leash, you wouldn't be in that mess, now would you?

My neighbor has a small dog that rushes out to any dog passing "his" street.  The last time, I actually saw the guy standing in his drive.  As an experiment, I called out to him "My black dog will bite him," (not true, but sick of seeing this dog off lead in the street) to the response of "That's alright.  They're just dogs bein' dogs." 

It is my job to keep my dogs safe.  It is your job to keep your dogs safe.  Allowing them to run around running up to dogs you don't know is not safe.  Stop it.  You never know who may be packing Citro.

“oh my goodness, come on! Come on pup! What a good puppy! So good ! Ohhhh! “.........

............ is not the right approach.
“Sasha...Come. Yes, good girl. Come on.....” is more appropriate. Projecting weak energy with our voices is one of the most common places we fall apart as 'trainers.' Where have you ever seen a military commander begging his troops to pay attention?

You can sound happy, but not silly. Think about it as though you were speaking to a five year old child. You wouldn't squeak and coo and bubble when calling them off the swings at the park, would you?

Nor would you attempt to sound like you are angry to make the child respond....At least I would hope not. Projecting strength and conviction in your voice is a lot different then sounding out of control.
“JIMMY!!! GET YOUR BUTT OVER HERE BEFORE I SPANK THE TAR OUT OF YOU!!!!”
makes you sound classless and unstable. Noise without follow-through is just noise.

My dog comes close to me, but breezes by in a run instead of stopping in front of me.
As you are working with the long line, create more of a moving target of your body. Dogs don't find stationary Humans very interesting. As you call your dog, tug the line when you say “Come.” Begin moving backward or away from the dog, maintain facial contact (keep your face turned towards the dog) and avoid turning your back on him. When the dog begins to move your way, That is when you say “Good.” The act of moving your direction is good.

Pull the line so the dog is getting closer, as the dog breezes past you, say “no” and tug the line as you repeat, “Come.” Moving past you is not good, so you mark it with “no.” As the dog once again is on track, you may encourage with “yes” or “good” but try not to say the dogs' name again during this corrective move.

Keep at it 'til the dog has landed right in front of you, at which point you immediately dole out a reward; be it a toy, treat or freedom again.
The breeze by's will also be decreased if you take the time to practice this at shorter distances and with less distractions.

My dog only plays pass the puppy if we have a leash on him to give him a tug. So my partner can't get him to return, because they aren't holding the leash.
That's ok. You can again go back to a smaller space between you (starting so small that the dog only has to turn his head to receive a reward is sometimes necessary) or you can put 2 long lines on the dog's collar. Place yourselves at a distance that won't restrict the dog from reaching either of you. One person calls the dog, tugs the line and rewards for the return, then the other person does the same with their leash. Setting up control in the environment is how you get success.

My dog plays Come When Called great...when there are no distractions....
If your pup has a low distraction tolerance, you may have to stay at a short distance away (4 or 6 ft leash length) and put more of a buffer between you and the distraction, until your pup begins to function in the presence of these things. If kids and bikes distract her, finding a neighborhood where there are a couple kids, once in a while may be a better place to start then at the local playground.

If dogs are the issue, keep a good distance from them before you can expect your dog to focus close up. If Humans are the best thing in the world for your dog, call a friend and ask them to help you. Find a quiet place to work where you won't see many other Humans, and have your friend place themselves far off. At first, all they do is stand there doing nothing. At the same distance, add in the Human now walks; the Human now jumps/runs/catches a ball, etc. You can also have your friend bring a dog; begin far and smush that tolerance level at a successful rate.   Go at your dog's pace, but always be pushing that envelope a little further.  If your dog is consistently failing, it is not the dogs fault; it is yours for trying too much, too fast.

It is unfair to expect a high-drive or energetic dog to function well at the mall on a Sunday afternoon right off the bat. Start in your home. In those boring places. Then perhaps just your front yard. Or an empty parking lot. Getting creative with where and how you introduce distractions is the best way to bomb-proof your desired behaviors.

My dog comes when called on leash, but the moment he is free, I do not exist.
Your dog is not ready to be off leash. If you cannot trust them to return, don't.

You may have either not practiced enough, in different settings, with differing distractions, or you are working with an intelligent beast who has figured out just how little control you have when not directly attached to her. In these cases, you can either look into a teacher who can help you e-collar train your dog (which is not right for all dogs' personalities), or resolve to spend more time on it then you expected.

Tomorrow, we march for the dogs.

Tomorrow.  May 3rd, 2014, we march for the dogs.  We march for our families and our sisters and our friends.  We march because we, The People of the United States of America will show with our presence that We, are more then a collection of "thugs" or "low-lifes" or "drug-dealers" or "maleficients."....
We are the dog owning, voting public, who believe,
It is not the breed.
It is the Deed.
It cannot be the animal, because Animal is only doing what Animal does.

Animal has not the reason to think "killer."

Animal preserves itself.

And when Human beings hurt, harass, throw into trunks, skin while breathing
and screaming and begging.....

Humans mar with acid.  hang with hands and hangers and baling twine.....
Humans gambling and walking and playing sports and given contracts
and houses and lives beyond reason.....

Reason. 
The Reason we march tomorrow....
.....is that this is clearly a Human problem.  Not a canine decision.

To punish an innocent slave is to set a standard I wish not to uphold.

10 Easy Things You Can Do To Help Your Dog Be More Social

1. Take Him Places.
Though I feel like this almost goes without saying, a dog who never seen anything but the backside of your fenceline, is more likely to develop behavioral issues.  If you knew someone who never left their house, you'd consider them to have a "condition" and perhaps want them to seek help for the fears and  anxieties this creates.  Why then, do we think this is an appropriate way to 'own' a dog?

If your dog doesn't like to be touched, label him/her.  Seriously.  It can be enormously helpful to put a t-shirt

or cape on your dog that says Do Not Pet when you take them in public.  This way, the dog can be a part of the world, without the world trying to come down on them.  This can build confidence, as well as make it much, much easier for you to work with the dog in public. 


2. Play With Her.
Remember when your cute puppy was all you thought about?  Or how cool your new adopted dog was?  How you went to the store and bought toys and brought them home to throw them all over the yard, or the park?   Take some time for play.  Play skills are vital for both social interaction in the dog's life, and for us.  Consider our dogs a fountain of youth.  They teach us the simple joys of just running around like a maniac, or chasing something, or rolling in the grass (fine, dead animals....whatever).  When we play, we activate centers in our brains that make us smarter, more balanced and more emotionally sound:  Give this to your dog.

3. Walk Him.
Exercise is key to having a well-balanced canine in your life.  When you control the walk, you control so many other aspects of your relationship with your dog.  What's that?  Your dog walks you?  Or can't handle walking past other dogs?  Look into a teacher who can show you how to strengthen that skill.  Not to mention, walking is good for you.  Isn't your doctor always harping on you to get outside and take a walk?

4. Have a Dinner Party.
If your dog is slightly socially inept (and I use the term 'slightly' here for a reason.  If your dog can't handle Humans at your house because of aggressive/protective issues, or extreme fears...go much slower and use a professional) a dinner party or a bar-b-que may be just the thing to help him overcome some of these issues.  People = good energy = food & fun = more relaxed dog.
Make sure you are controlling the interactions, which leads us to our next point.....

5. Leash Her.
Stop allowing your dog the freedom to make those poor social choices.  I can't tell you how many times I have gotten to a home and discovered that none of the dogs wear collars (EVER) and that no one ever stopped to think a leash may give you more control.  You may not need it forever, but taking charge of the dogs ability to run around your guests barking, or running away from the situation, might just be the ticket to helping your dog learn to enjoy having guests.
A leash also gives you the control to tell your guests that the dog isn't so good socially, and might need a special approach; or a complete lack of attention from the "invaders."

6. Take a Nap.
Giving your dog a place to relax when you have guests over is vital.  No matter how well adjusted your dog may be, sometimes too much is too much.  Putting your dog into a crate, or sectioning off a room just for them can allow them to be a part of it, without the overwhelming feeling of being right in the middle of it.  Some dogs may only need a bed in a corner to feel safe, while others may need a yummy stuffed Kong in a crate upstairs by himself with the radio on (in case you're wondering, that last one is my rescue guy). 

After successfully hanging out on a leash among the guests for a while, when I see he is beginning to relax and enjoy himself, his reward is that he gets to leave.  Seriously.  That's all he wants anyway, so when he learns to bring his mind into that state, I reward it. 

7. Cater to Who He Is, Right Now.
Know when too much is too much.  Forcing a dog past what he can handle is not therapy; it only compounds what your dog believes to be true:  That being social is frightening.  Always have an exit plan.  Some dogs do need a bit of flooding, but some do not; knowing the difference is important to helping your dog grow.  
If it's not working, as in, you are not seeing progress with the method you are using (and sometimes, the progress can be subtle and slow) examine whether or not that method is appropriate for your dog.

8. Get Her Groomed.
Finding a kind, sweet understanding groomer to handle your dog (even shorthairs) can help them realize other humans do not mean them any harm.  The experience of grooming can make your dog feel better in some cases.  Again, I caution that if your dog suffers from extreme anxiety about being groomed, talk with your vet about perhaps taking measures to sedate the animal to have it groomed.  No sense causing more anxiety right?

9. Hang Out With Your Vet.
Most of us don't bother to see a doctor until there's a problem, but just like Humans, a well-check is a great way to know your dogs' baseline health, and an excellent opportunity for your vet to hang with your dog while not doing scary things.
Spending time in your vet's waiting room, without an appointment, can also help alleviate some of the nervousness our dogs sometimes feel when they go there.
Talk with your vet first, and find out a good time to hang out and practice good behaviors in the waiting room.  Building a good rapport with the building, the staff, and the vet are all vital to keeping your dog balanced and happy with the experience.

10. Remember, Love is Not Enough.
Dogs don't need our love the way we need to love them.  It feels fantastic to "rescue" a dog, or to cuddle a new puppy, but without meeting their basic needs as a pack animal, we fall short.  Providing structure, leadership and exercise are all more important to a dog's well-being and social balance, then our love can ever be.