Alpha What?

Let me make this as clear as possible:
Stop.  Alpha Rolling.  Your.  Dog.

When all other aspects of your relationship with your dog scream that you have no control of the situation, your sudden launch of attack is confusing.  Not only is it confusing, it is dangerous.  It is an emotional battle you don't need to fight with your dog. 


Yes, I know you saw it on Dog Whisperer, but let me tell you something about Cesar Millan:  He knows what he is doing, and to which dogs.  I do wish that the warning they run at the beginning of his shows, you know, the one about not attempting the techniques you see unless under the guidance of a professional, would be put up in the middle of the episodes before you watch something like a 'roll.'   You may be rolling your dog, when what you really need is to learn how to exercise better pack structure in all other areas of your relationship with your dog.  Or did you forget all the stuff he said to the family on the show about how important Exercise, Structure and how you conduct Your Energy is to your dog because you were so impressed with how 'calm' the roll made the dog on t.v......

Or maybe your "trainer" told you to roll your puppy, but forgot to explain at what point you need to let it up, or let it go, or to stop doing it altogether.  So there you are, thinking you are "controlling" things, when really, you are scaring the tar out of your poor dog, or holding it down so long that it has past the point of any lesson it may have gained, and is growing angry:  More apt to struggle and to bite, and to dislike interacting with you.

The Alpha Roll in a natural setting only happens when one wolf is actually going to seriously injure or damage another wolf.  What observing scientists originally saw was play, and sometimes a subordinate dog rolling himself over to show belly in a gesture of apology to a higher ranking member of the pack.  Rolling your dog is a great way to get bit.  It's a good way to create submissive urination issues too.

In Nature, there are no lectures.  We, as a reasoning species, tend to want to 'drive a point home' too long when dealing with our dogs.  We stand there with our stern faces and loud, angry voices and lecture our dogs well past the actual correction.  "Bad Dog!  What the heck is wrong with you?!  Do you see this mess?!  Do You?!!!  Bad Dog!?  Look at me when I'm talking to you!  Bad!  No! NO! No!" 

 

Chicken and beef.
The time it took for you to read that phrase, is about how long a correction would last in a natural pack.

You are not a dog, and while I do advocate communicating with your dog with body language that your dog can more easily understand, I still realize I am a Human.  I am not going to get on all fours and snarl at my dog over an incident of "dominance."  That's a great way to invite my dog to fight me like he would another dog who challenged him....And something tells me he's faster than me.

Not only that, but if I'm using nonsense like that, my dog expects all other Humans to communicate to him like that, and if they don't, then he may not respect them; he may choose to challenge them, or to try and boss them when visiting my home.

There are many, many ways to gain your dogs respect and get control of his or her behavior that don't require you to physically smash them into the floor.  Stop it.

Patience.....

..... is the greatest Tool you will every wield as you work with your dog.  No matter what personality, breed, age or size you may have, if you aren't being patient, nothing will ever work.

Taking a deep breath and thinking about something else while you wait it out in the 'baby stages' of teaching 'leave it' is not only good for you, it is necessary.  In case you're wondering, baby-stage leave it is where you hide a treat in your closed hand, keeping another treat in the other hand, but tucked behind your back...You present the first treat, close your hand and ask for "leave it," then you wait.  While your dog is pawing and licking, and nibbling and biting at your hand, remain still.  Don't move y
our hand, don't giggle, don't say 'leave it...leave it...leave it..."  Say nothing more; you already asked him once to Leave It...Just be patient.
The moment he finally gives up and loses interest in that hand with the treat hidden in it, say "Good" and give the treat from the other hand. Never (!!!) allow the dog to think you allowed him to have the one you told him to Leave.  Always make him believe you are rewarding with a different treat/toy.  Stage One Complete.

I have worked with hounds that have taken upwards of 4 or 5 minutes of focus and digging at my closed fist, while I look off into space, ignoring that my hand has so much slobber on it, I'm gonna need more then a towel.  Yes, this takes a bit of pain tolerance, but the payoff, is that you have just patiently, peacefully found your dogs' attention and the next time you try it, it won't take nearly as long.

Working through the four stages of teaching Leave It (well, I use four anyway.....) will ultimately net you a dog who can 'leave' a guest alone, not pick up that nasty piece of McDonald's wrapping on the sidewalk, chase your neighbors' cat, or chase a ball into traffic.  I can leave a plate full of chicken wings on my coffee table, and know they are safe from the roving mouths with wagging tails...So long as I ask them to Leave It.

Using these baby-stages to get to the other, more difficult Leave It's can also avoid unnecessary force being applied.  There are some "trainers" out there who are still using the ol' corrective collar and a good hard yank to try and get this behavior.  They feel it is 'quicker' or they just haven't learned how fast it goes when you use these baby-stages first.  The amount of force required for this to work on a grown, strong or large dog is certainly more then most people are willing or able to apply.....I certainly wouldn't want to use that.

Patience, and some baby-stages.  Before you know it, you can set that plate down to go get a drink, and know it will still be there when you return; with food still on it.

Tools You Didn't Know Were Tools

That thing.  That twisted piece of fabric in his mouth?  Yeah, that's a Tool, and a damn good one if you ask me.  Depending on the dog, Tug o' war can be almost as great a weapon in your quest for focus, as carrying a chunk of steak or salmon in your pocket (sometimes even better). 

Playing Tug with your dog can blow most other ways to interact with your dog out of the water in terms of obedience, so long as you are teaching your animal how to do this properly.  How many of you know a dog, or may have one, that leaps for your face trying to get the rope out of your hand? Or one that sounds like it's turning into a werewolf the moment she starts yanking on the toy?

How many of you have heard the ol' adage "It will make them aggressive"?  Well, will it?  There are certain personalities out there that I would certainly advise never to play Tug o' war with, but the majority of dogs can greatly benefit from playing this game.  This is not a game I recommend children play with the family dog.  There are too many accidental things that could go wrong.  Stick to teaching Fetch, or Retrieve, with parental supervision, if you want the kids playing with the dog.

It can be a good workout for you (shoulders, abs, arms and legs, if you have a larger, stronger dog), and a wonderful way to tire out a rambunctious pup.  It can be a bonding game too.  Teaching a dog how to politely ask for permission to play Tug can be an amazing way to show a dog how to "Turn off the Crazy" once they get going.  You can use it with very young dogs (so long as you are being careful of teeth; yank too hard and you'll pop them right out of their little puppy heads) to teach a polite "Drop" behavior, as well as "Bring."

Think about it:  In the wild, when a pack of dogs (or wolves, if you will) gets a hold of prey, they are working together.  It is a group effort when they latch on to some hapless young deer and begin to rip and tear at it, or hang off of it, in order to bring it down to feed themselves and any growing puppies they may have.  They are working together.

Tug o' War can be a bonding experience for you and your dog, as you work together to 'kill' the tug toy.  Ripping and tugging and throwing all their energy onto a TOY---Not your neighbor's dog; or cat, or kid. Giving your dog an appropriate place to be what they are (remember, domesticated as we have made them, they are Predators.....and dirty scavengers, but we'll talk about that some other time) in a controlled manner, is wonderful!

So how do you play Tug, without creating a problem?
Well, if your dog already thinks it's alright to lunge and snap at whatever toy you are holding, start by teaching them to Sit politely and wait for you to offer the toy.  Do not allow your dog to jump on you and basically demand that you give it to them; it's your toy.  That's right, I said that was your tug toy.  Everything that your dog enjoys belongs to you.  Remember that.

So he's sitting politely, offer him the toy and say something like "Take it" as he puts it into his mouth.  Before you get to yanking and pulling at all, make sure your dog knows how to "Drop" when you ask him to.  You've offered him the toy, it's in his mouth, now pull out something tasty and offer him a trade (sometimes you may have to get that piece of chicken and literally touch his nostrils with it before he'll realize you want
that toy).  The moment he lets go, tell him he's a Good Dog and give him that chunk o' chicken.

Only when your dog has a good idea of what Take vs. Drop is, should you move into pulling on it.  If he's so into the toy that he doesn't want food, Cool!  Use what motivates him.  He doesn't want to let go of the rope, but is obsessed with tennis balls?  Use that.  He won't let go of the rope for any reason what-so-ever?  Than he is not ready to play with the rope.  Teach him to drop things you know he will.  Create a habit of listening to you on stuff that doesn't make him so nuts; graduate to tougher sales slowly.  Sometimes, using two of the exact same toy can work.

Ok, so you're tugging and pulling and she suddenly begins to growl.  Quick, drop the rope and back away slowly....
I'm kidding.  That is usually a normal thing for your pup to make play noises that sound terrible.  If you aren't sure if they are 'safe' sounds, get an opinion from a good canine educator.  They'll be equipped to let you know if what you are hearing is ok, or leaning into territory that might indicate your dog may not be emotionally sound enough for this game. 

The way this game should go is a series of Tugging and Releasing.  Don't play this 'til the dog can't stand up anymore; always leave them wanting more.  I don't recommend using growling noises yourself; you are a Human, don't growl at your dog.  You can verbally encourage the pull though, using something like "get it" or my personal favorite "Skit'em."  But when you have decided it is time to release the toy, stop moving.  Get quiet for a couple seconds, and ask for that "Drop." 

When your dog lets go, ask for a Sit or a Down, or a Heel, or whatever you are currently working on; this game can motivate!  Ivan Balabanov (pictured) has been using Tug o' War as a training reward for his winning Schutzhund dogs for years.  He believes in building a stronger relationship with the dog, through tug (and TONS of time!!!!!) makes for better performance....Obviously it works.
Anyway, ask for something.  Only when your dog has done something for you should you offer the toy back.  If the dog ignores you and just keep circling or attempts to jump at the toy, say "no" calmly, and put the toy out of sight for a moment, or tuck it into your torso and just be quiet.

Do not repeat "Sit....Sit...Sit..Sit"  over and over and over again.  Say it once, and wait.  As long as your dog is still looking at you, they are still engaged and want what you have.  Being patient will net you what you want. 
As soon as the dog sits, the game can resume.

Rules are simple;

1. The toy does not belong to the Dog.

2. The toy only comes out for the game when the Human decides it is tug time.

3. The game ends when the Human decides it should.

4. The dog must Sit politely in order to be offered the toy; should he jump at you to get it, draw the toy into your body (no jerking it over your head, as this will promote more jumping) say "no," and ask for Sit again.  

5. Tug can make a great reward for other behaviors....My dog will Heel for a super long time just to get a chance at that tug for 30 seconds!!!!  He'll also do fantastic Stays in order to play.

6. Do not play until the dog is bored and too tired to play more.  Always end the game when he still wants to play.  That way, it never loses its excitement for him.

7. Allow him to "win" once in a while.  Letting him jerk the toy out of your hands and run off with it makes him feel good.  It will not ruin any idea of who is "dominant."  It is a chance for you to encourage polite game play:  "Ohhh, you got it!  Good Boy, Bring it.  Good boy Bring it back."  When he does, the game can resume.  If he doesn't bring it back, or plays "i'm faster than you can grab this rope" just walk off.  Teach him how to play fair by not losing your cool or chasing him when he tries to play keep away.

8. DO NOT ALLOW FRIENDS WHO DON'T KNOW HOW TO PLAY TUG PROPERLY TO PLAY THIS GAME WITH YOUR DOG.

That last one is important because most people do not know how to play this game, without riling the dog up til he is jumping and frantic and not at all listening to you.  The idea with tug is to bond, train, play and respect.  If at any time he jumps and manages to steal the toy from you, don't react.  Just walk away.  Game over.  Ignore him if he brings it to you and shoves it into your leg/body.  He stole from you, he gets no interaction; pick up the toy after he has lost interest and put it away for later.

 "Skit'em!"

 

Tools: The no-pull harness

Why doesn't this work to stop pulling?!?

 They pull really bad, so we bought harnesses.....What's so bad about that?  And why hasn't it helped?

For the exact reason that this works to assist a dog pulling weight behind them:

Your typical harness is not designed to help you stop the pull at all.  In fact, your store-bought, comfortable harness is distributing the pressure across your dogs strong chest and shoulders and allowing him to push into it with the full weight and force of his muscles, and is in fact increasing the pull.  Yes, he is no longer choking himself on a collar, and that's good, but now you have a dog who is literally following his physiological coding and pressing into that which presses into him:  The standard harness straps. 

Still want to keep him in a harness and stop the pulling?  Good News!  They have stuff out there that actually does that!  Remember that photo of the dog a couple articles ago?  The one with the no-pull harness on backwards? (to the right) 

Clipping the leash 'on top' of the dog means the harness was still functioning as a device the dog was comfortable leaning into.  Either that, or this is what they call a "Freedom Harness" and that is most likely why it's like this, and not working.  The martingale enclosure on that harness is meant to go on the chest of the dog, if it's to help stop forward motion at all....So let's talk about why they work, how they work and if you have the patience to teach your dog the techniques necessary in order for it to become a comfortable part of your walking regime....Which, I'll admit, I am behind on today because coffee and blogging are more comfortable; we'll go after this Dogs, I promise :)

 

No-pull harnesses.....Only work like magic for the first few days, if you are failing to use some kind of training technique to teach the dog what you are asking of him.  Does this sound like every other posting of mine?  It should, because it does.  Over and over I stress, no matter what tool you choose, if you don't spend an eensy-weensy little bit of time teaching the dog what that tool is for, it will being to fail in its effectiveness.


So today we talk about the no-pull harness.  Most of them are designed to stop the forward motion of the dog by simple physics:  It is near impossible to move forward, when your body is turned around.  Hence the reason the clip where the leash goes in actually on the chest of the dog.  The chest strap should be fit, but not so much as to restrict natural motion (dog should be able to run in it) unless he tries to pull.

There are several versions of this on the market, and as a matter of fact, the one this guy in the photo is wearing is not my preferred brand.  While it works mostly just fine, I've seen dogs pull free of this.  It also has no padding at the shoulder joist, which means it can chafe and rub and be quite uncomfortable if mis-fit at all.


This one, to the right, however, is wonderful (in my opinion).  It is by the Halti company, and has many features that the others do not.  So let's start at the O-ring on the back piece.  This allows you to either use it as a secondary point of connection for those super pullers, or to use it more like a traditional harness.  It does nothing to stop pulling, unless attached to both the chest ring and this O-ring, but should you be hiking or out in tall grass and want to allow your dog more freedom without restricting motion, this is the one you clip the leash to.

The biggest difference in this product, as compared to some others, is that magical little clip on the chest piece.  In this photo, is in unhooked, but when in use, it goes to the D-ring on your dog's regular, flat collar.  This keeps that chest strap exactly where it belongs; preventing it from sliding into the elbow of the dog.  It also makes certain that, in the unlikely event that this comes off, you are still attached to your dog!

Third; this harness has neoprene lining at the shoulder joists, which means comfort for your dog.  The "other" guys is not a "T" connection, but rather, three straps connected by an O-ring with no lining. 

And finally, the fit of the Halti no-pull is far superior to that of the other guys' harness.  It has five points of adjustment:  one on either side of the O'ring, one on the belly strap, and two on the chest strap---This means you get a much more custom fit for your dog.  Which means more comfort and security for you.  Halti's version also costs less than the other one.  Weird.

The little guy in this pic (at left) has the double clip in use.  While his person is allowing too much tension on the back strap, this is a good photo of what it looks like all fit and hooked up.

There are several "no-pull" devices out on the market, as far as harnesses go.  Some of them just do not make any sense to me.  Such as this poor guy on the right.

The idea with this is that (and they sell these at Bed, Bath n' Beyond, which should indicate a little something.....) when the dog pulls, the cable tightens around their mid-section  behind the ribcage and becomes so uncomfortable that the dog slows his forward progress.....ok, great, but I don't relish the idea of smashing my dogs' guts (or genitals, as I've seen some Humans place this directly on top of some poor dogs' penis sheath) to stop them from pulling.

Now, I have used a hunters' half hitch to teach a dog to hold a stand...and occasionally, I have looped a dogs' leash under her belly as a quick here to there from car to yard, but this is not a long-term solution, and it bothers me that this is being sold as such. 

These lil' numbers:  The loops go on each of the front legs and the premise here is that when the dog pulls, the loops tighten and cause it to be uncomfortable, so the dog stops.  They do not work for larger dogs.  Period.  They may start out working, and so you buy the thing at the store, but the dog adjusts so quickly to this, and it is so close to the design on a regular harness, that it is just not an idea that works (in my opinion).  They may function on a very sensitive dog, but if your dog is really that sensitive, you'd be better off with a flat collar and some positive reinforcement training, really.

They are, however, a fantastic option for some small dogs.  The very fact that the little guys cannot pull you over and that they are so close to the ground, makes this sometimes a good option.  With the front clipped harnesses, sometimes the little guys wind up with the leash under their legs just too often (and yes, this again is a Human-not-paying-attention problem) making the chest snap ineffective anyway.  Some of them also come with a mesh chest piece, which can ensure a comfy fit for the little dudes...

Ummm, yeah...I'm not even sure where to start about this one.  I'm guessing the inventor just kept strapping ropes to his dog until he finally had a contraption that the dog just didn't like moving in anymore, and he said "Voila!"

Restricting all of your dogs' movements is not teaching.  And by the looks of this, it would just rub all the fur off the elbows and the hind legs anyway...I mean, just look at how happy this dog looks (not at all).

These hind leg no-pull things do not impress me either.  There's been a product out for years designed to stop a dog from jumping, by restricting his ability to fully raise up to his hind legs...This is a modification of that product.  This has been invented and endorsed by a vet, but I again believe that this sort of thing is grossly unfair to the dog, and most likely pretty uncomfortable to walk in.  Yes, there are fleece linings on the straps, hooray...I'm guessing that if your dog is so hyper that you needed something like this, he's not gonna be still long enough to make putting this thing on very simple or easy.

So the point of the no-pull is to stop the pull, but if I don't use a technique, it won't work anymore?
That is correct.  They'll just learn to walk weird as they pull you.  Dogs are incredibly adaptive animals.  They will learn to tolerate a lot of uncomfortable stuff, unless you are teaching them exactly what will get them paid (be it in treats, toys, praise, touch etc.).  When you teach them what will get them rewarded vs. what is not comfortable or easy for them, they will choose to get rewarded every time: 
They aren't stupid.

The no-pull, I can put that on any kind of dog, and it will stop the pulling?
No.  Just like any Tool out there, this isn't right for every dog.  Some dogs aren't effected by these things at all, and continue to slam into them and haul their Humans down the street.  That's most likely because the human wasn't applying any teaching when they first used it, and the dog has gotten used to it.  Or it's simply because it's the wrong tool for the job.

Rattlesnakes!

This is a Public Service Announcement from Colorado State University. 

What to do If your dog is bitten by a rattlesnake and prevention

 

Common sense is your most important tool in protecting your pet from a rattlesnake strike. If you live in or will be in rattlesnake territory with your cat or dog, awareness is your first step toward prevention.

In Colorado, prairie rattlesnakes live in open prairies, croplands, as well as in the rocky foothills along the Front Range at elevations below 8,500 feet. They are frequent visitors to backyards, garages, porches, and patios, particularly to homes neighboring open prairies and homes in the foothills. In cooler weather, they are active during the day. In hot weather, they become more active in the early morning and evening.

Prairie rattlesnakes prefer to leave quietly rather than confront, but will usually rattle to warn, and will strike if threatened too closely, sniffed or stepped on. Rattlesnakes begin to emerge from their winter dens as the weather warms in late spring. Young are born between August and October, with snake activity greatly decreasing by the end of October as the snakes return to their winter dens.

Prevention

• When out hiking, keep your dog on a close leash at all times, particularly in tall grass and rocky areas where you can't see the ground clearly. Dog parks also have rattlesnake visitors, so check the park out and talk with other owners before you let your dog run free.

• Aversion training is the process of a professional trainer working with your dog to recognize and avoid the sight, sound, and smell of rattlesnakes (specific to the species of snake found in your particular region). If you live in rattlesnake territory, this may be a wise investment.

• Currently, the Veterinary Teaching Hospital (VTH) at Colorado State University does not provide or recommend the rattlesnake vaccine due to a lack of evidence of its efficacy in our region. Vaccinated dogs seen at the VTH have the same symptoms and need the same care as unvaccinated dogs. A possible danger of the vaccine is a sense of security that may delay care if owners assume their dog will be fine because it has been vaccinated. All animals bitten by a rattlesnake should receive medical attention as soon as possible.

First Aid For Rattlesnake Bites

• If your dog or cat is bitten, the most important thing to do is get to a veterinarian as quickly as possible. Do not attempt to provide any first aid to your pet – do not apply a tourniquet, do not cut the bite in an attempt to get the poison out, and do not try to clean the bite. You risk making the situation worse by delaying care, worsening the possibility of infection, as well as getting bit yourself – by your dog or cat! Rattlesnake bites are painful and even your docile pet may bite you out of fear and pain.

• If you're hiking and your dog can walk out, that's best. If you have to carry your dog, protect yourself and be careful not to touch the bite location.

• Have a plan ahead of time. Know where you will take your cat or dog in the event of a snake bite, especially in the evenings and weekends when your regular clinic may be closed. It helps to call your veterinary clinic, if they have emergency hours, or the Animal Emergency Hospital when you are on your way so they can prepare for your arrival. Most pets arrive at the hospital within an hour of being bitten.

• Do not attempt to catch the snake. Prairie rattlesnakes are the only poisonous snake in Colorado. If your dog or cat was bitten by a rattlesnake, it was a prairie rattler. Dogs can be bit by other snakes as well, including the bull snake, a very adept rattlesnake mimic. These bites, while less dangerous, still need veterinary treatment because of the risk of infection. With any luck, your dog or cat will live their entire lives without ever being a victim of a rattlesnake strike. But it's good to know what to do just in case. Stay calm, and get your animal help as quickly as possible.

Adapted from Colorado State University's Veterinary Teaching Hospital's website at: www.csuvth.colostate.edu, Caring Magazine Vol. 1, No. 1.

.....Here We Go Again.....

Of all the common questions I receive, this is the one that keeps cropping up:

"When we let him off leash, he won't come back.  How do we fix that?"

"Every time she's playing in the field, she only comes back if there's no distractions.  What can we do?"

"I just want him to be off-leash, but he'll jet the minute I unhook him.  Can we stop that?"

"She listens really well until there's another person, or a dog, or a bike, or kids...she really loves kids, and she'll just run to it...She comes right back when she's done, like I said, she's really well-trained, except for that one little thing....."

Guess what?
It's not a 'little thing.'  Your dog is not ready to be off a leash.  Period. 
It really is that simple. 

If you can't trust them off a leash, stop letting them off a leash. 

Every time you do, you are reinforcing the very thing you are complaining about.  The dog ignores you, does whatever it feels like doing until it is done, then maybe your dog will choose to come find you, at his or her own speed/time.

Stop it. 
Keep a leash on your dog. 
You are not depriving your dog of any sort of social interaction because you aren't allowing them to run and play in areas that aren't designated for off-lead play; in fact, you're making it very hard for other people to be responsible.  You taking a jog with your dog off a leash, your dog, who doesn't do much else except follow you 30 feet out as he rushes up to every dog he sees, is making it really difficult for anyone who has the following:
A scared dog.
A reactive dog.
A dog who thinks your dog may be rushing in to attack it.
A puppy.
An older dog who might not want your dog body slamming him.
A person who is afraid of dogs.
A child who doesn't know how to act around dogs.
A child learning to ride a bicycle, and was doing so great, 'til she saw your dog rushing at her, lost her balance and fell.  When she fell, your dog rushed up, and scared her so bad she's screaming and crying and her dad is now trying to kick the snot out of your dog.....

.....are you beginning to see the picture?

Tools You Should Use: The Martingale Collar

I'll keep this short and relatively sweet:  I personally feel that every dog should be wearing a Martingale Style collar with a quick release buckle, like this

Unless your dog has a medical condition that bars them from wearing a collar, these are in my opinion, the safest things out there. They are soft, comfortable, come in a variety of colors and design, and are virtually escape proof.  That's right, I said your dog cannot escape from this collar. 

Originally designed for Greyhounds, because their necks are thicker than their skulls and they were just walking out of regular collars, the Martingale has become popular with most breeds.  How many times has your dog backed up and pulled out of his collar?  Or slipped free when you went to grab hold of him? (well, to be perfectly fair, your dog could use more training, but still.....)

A Martingale works like this

The leash attaches to the ring on the smaller of the two loops of collar.  When the dog, or you, puts pressure on the leash, the smaller loop tightens, and the collar becomes smaller.  It's not really enough to choke the daylights out of your dog (I would hope you aren't trying to choke the daylights out of your dog!) but it's tight enough that the collar won't slip over the skull.

Some "trainers" like to use this as a gentle correction collar, but I find that it is not usually enough, if correction is what you are after.  I like them as a safety device.  Speaking of safety, the quick release buckle:  If you have a Martingale without one, you are playing with fire.  What happens if your dog gets caught or hung up in a bush while playing?  That's right, without a clip your dog may need scissors or a knife to free.

You'll notice this one also sports a chain for the smaller loop; while I am not a huge fan of this, as chain can snag skin or pinch tender ears, it does its job, and isn't the worst thing. 

I just prefer them to be what they call a "soft martingale, " as in, all cloth.

So how do I fit it properly?

Correct Fit.

This is incorrect.

Like this. 
Once you've gotten the collar on the dog, pull the small D-Ring and be sure the rings on the larger part of the collar do not meet.  Remember, you're going for a collar they cannot escape, and if those rings can touch, the dog can get out of the collar. 

Not only that, but an incorrectly fitted Martingale can be a trap-hazard for paws and jaws.

Can you imagine if this pup was doing that yoga scratch with his back foot towards those amazing ears, and his foot hung up in the smaller loop?  Now he's trapped and scared and lurching around the backyard, possibly headed for a panic attack that could lead to injury and some behavioral problems. 
 
If you have purchased a Martingale thinking it will help with any kind of pulling issue, you are mistaken. 

Teaching your dog proper manners on leash will help with a pulling problem, 

no matter what kind of collar you choose.

They Charged You What?!?

We've tried this trainer, and that trainer, and he went to boot camp for 5 weeks, and he STILL doesn't Come when called, and the neighbors are STILL afraid of him.....

I find it enormously disappointing, and upsetting, when I meet a new client and I hear the 'training history' of the animal and hear that they've spent money on failure.  Sometimes, yes, it actually is the fault of the family or Human that handles the dog, but most of the time, it's not.  I don't profess to know everything, nor do I think my methods are the end-all be-all of dog teaching.  But when I spend one or two sessions with a dog and its family, and the results are life-alteringly good for that situation, I have to blame the previous "trainers."

Folks, this is why I put the word "trainer" in quotations.  These so-called "trainers" are so into grubbing every cent possible out of these Humans who are reaching out for help, that they sometimes drag out sessions needlessly.  Or they fail to teach the Human how to do it right.  Sure, they give you just enough to keep you coming back, or to be awed by them and their own dogs, but it breaks my heart when I hear "He is just so good for the trainer! I can't make him do it at home."

If this is happening, you may think about getting a new Teacher.  I get that there's a learning curve, and that nobody who isn't doing this for a living is going to be quite as nit-picky about method as I am.  I understand that some Humans don't grasp the subtle body cues or miscommunications we make to our dogs, but that's my job....Right?  Did you not hire me to teach you how to do it?

And what about safety?
I run into situations where the "trainer" who was supposed to be the "best" in the area, or the "field" has overlooked something so basic, so necessary for the safety of the client that it caused an accident.  Remember the talk about using a safety collar with a prong?  One of the "best" forgot to set one up on a dog aggressive dog, and the links came apart, and the client's dog got loose and almost killed this clients' neighbors' dog. 

On top of that, this "trainer" also didn't bother to show this Human how to properly correct with the set-up, and was letting this person use a rope leash, which of course had burned the skin on the owners hands from trying to hold back the dog.  No wonder the dog wouldn't behave for anyone but the "trainer."  Kept them coming back for more expensive sessions, but was anything being actually taught to the most important person involved?  

That dog who went to 5 weeks of boot camp and came home still too forward and "aggressive?"   
These "experts" were allowing this animal to be in front of the pack it feels necessary to protect, on a tense leash, held back from the threat, while the owners repeated "NO! Leave It! NO!"
In case anyone doesn't understand why that's an accident waiting to happen, look up some videos on how Protection Dog Training looks, and you'll see why that was only promoting "aggressive" behavior.

This same dog also saw another "trainer."  This time, the dogs' owners made it more clear they were struggling in the home environment with his "aggression" (it's in quotes, 'cuz the dog is actually not aggressive at all; truly kind of a sweet wuss who felt like it had no choice but to act this way) and this "trainer" insisted on meeting in a public place.  This animal has never presented an issue off its turf.  So these people were charged for an evaluation that didn't even touch on the actual problems.

Those "experts" were not bothering to observe the dynamic of the dog's relationship with the pack (i.e. the Humans).   Simply placing the dog behind the pack leader, and allowing the owner to face the 'threat,' and this went dog went "WHEW!  Thank god someone's taking care of that!" and laid down.

There are wonderful trainers, rehabilitators, behaviorists and teachers out there.  If I'm presented with something that's out of my range, or expertise, I'll be the first to admit it, and help you find someone who can help.....Because I want your dog to succeed.  I don't want to see your family lose a member because of a behavioral issue that could be helped by finding the right Teacher.

If you don't feel like it's helping; if you are not seeing progress, or if you feel like it's actually getting worse, perhaps it may be time to find a different way.  Dog Training is not magic.  It may take time, but you know your dog better then you think.  If your Teacher isn't showing you what to look for, or explaining why your dog is responding a certain way, you aren't getting the whole story.