Puppy Biting

No, you didn't adopt a furry shark...well, maybe....

The good news is that This IS a Phase, and if handled correctly, it is something your dog will most likely grow out of.

I say "most likely," because there are certain breeds that are prone to use their mouths as a way to say "I love you."  These dogs may always want to put their mouths on you, in gentle ways, not actually biting.   German Shepherds are notorious for this; mouthing at your forearms with sweet squeezes when saying hello.  I've met a couple Labs who've done this, and the oddball Pointer, but what we are addressing today is not a polite exchange.  We are talking about that obnoxious stage where that little furball jerk is all pointy needle teeth, and chewing on your fingers, hands, ears, toes and whatever else he can stab those death-daggers in to.

Unless your pup is spending unsupervised time alone with young children who do not understand how to properly handle a puppy, this is a natural behavior primarily driven by teething.  This means they are looking for relief from the discomfort caused by losing their baby teeth, and replacing them with adult chompers.

This is also a very exploratory phase behaviorally.  Most puppies frankly do not get to spend enough time with their siblings, or their mother, to develop what we call bite inhibition:  Figuring out what pressure is "Too Hard" with their mouths.  It is a skill best learned practicing on brother and sister, instead of your soft, tender Human flesh. 

When a puppy of 8 weeks old (the standard for "old enough to go to a new home," but should you pick up a pet store pup, beware that they may have been removed even earlier, so that when they arrive at the store they are 8 weeks) is removed from his litter-mates, he is still in infancy.  The next four to six weeks is when I get most of the "He Bites!" complaints.  That is due to his jumping from an infant-like stage, to that of an 8 or 10 year old boy.  How much physical damage does a baby cause to those holding him?  How much trouble can a curious, playful, strong, independent 10 year old boy cause, or get in to by accident?  Exactly.

A puppy of 12 to 14 weeks of age wants to play!! Explore!! Bite!!! Chase!!! Everything exciting and fun to a puppy this age, will be repeated.  Biting you is suddenly an exciting game.  Can you imagine the difference it might make, if that same puppy had spent those few extra weeks chomping on siblings, and learning what "too much" was, before they made their way to your home?

A slightly older puppy is "ripe" for training.  That is not to say that you cannot teach an 8 week old puppy some really great things, it just makes everything easier.  They can be less prone to some of the fears that can lead to later behavioral issues (providing they came from a good environment).  They have learned bite inhibition to a greater degree, and more readily take to the ideas presented by you.  Not to mention, you may also have a more solid idea of his personality at 12 weeks old, vs. when he was a stumbling, sweet little 8 week old.

But I got on a tangent there....
How do you stop the little monster from biting?

1.  Offer Appropriate Alternatives---A lot of them.
Keeping a variety of appropriate chew toys (not soft stuffed animals, soft ropes, etc) around for the little dude is VERY important.  As your puppy grows, they will change their tastes and desires for different textures, and flavors.  Finding a variety of stuff for them to chew will help avoid things like destroyed window-sills, or torn up carpet.

Toys such as Nylabone (make sure you are matching your puppy to the right level of "chew") or Benebone come in a wide variety of shapes, flavors and textures.  The original Kong, when stuffed with some puppy food that has been soaked in water (or chicken broth) 'til the kibble swells, then frozen inside, can be a great way to exercise those jaws.  Try to avoid rawhide--it doesn't break down in the gut properly and can lead to blockage or tummy upset.  PetStages makes some incredible puppy chew toys. Talk to your vet or qualified professional to get some other great ideas.

This person is PREPARED !  This is a Kong Stuffing Station like I've never seen.  Lots of Kongs, pre-made stuffing in the bag, alternatives to mix in to the stuffing, different versions of treat dispensing toys...yeah, this person has a busy dog who is NOT chewing the furniture, or carpet, or hands, or shoes....

Always keep an appropriate chew in your pocket, or just within reach.  Every time he starts to put his mouth on you, (this includes clothes) say "no" in a calm but firm voice, then offer the alternative.  Encourage and entice the pup to put that in his mouth instead.

2.  Remember to tell him "no," "gentle," or "no biting" in calm, lower, serious tones, whenever he begins to chew on you.  
No need to yell at the puppy, it won't work in the long run.  If you present the idea that you are not stable, by yelling or overreacting, you are setting yourself up as "not the leader" in that puppy's opinion.  Leaders are in control.

Immediately after telling him "no," offer one of those alternatives.

There is a train of thought out there, that says you should "yelp like a puppy" or exclaim "OW!" in a loud voice when the pup bites, and then walk away from him.  While I'm OK with the walking away part, (he will most likely chase you and grab your pants or shoes, but whatever)

I disagree with sounding like a wounded prey animal when your dog bites you.  This reaction, I have found, can exacerbate your pup's already excited state, and perhaps make him even more keen on tackling and chewing on you.

This is why puppies Looooove to bite kids.  They cannot help but shriek, jump or jerk around and otherwise make it really and truly fun to bite. 

3.  Do Not Encourage Wrestling Games. 
Getting on the floor and communicating that it is ok for your puppy to treat you like another puppy is a sure way to invite them to inappropriately use their mouths. 

4.  Apply some kind of chew deterrent to your skin and clothing. 
This doesn't work for all dogs, but a majority of them find products like Bitter Apple, Phooey, or plain ol' White Vinegar to taste gross.  You can spray this on the back on one hand and forearm, keeping your fingers and palms free of this yucky taste.  When the pup begins to teeth on you, simply and calmly say "no," and offer the yucky tasting part of you to the puppy.  It is a nice, gentle, passive way to teach them that they don't want to chew on Humans because we taste gross.

Immediately offer that alternative chew after making your point.

5.  Offer Ice.  
For some puppies, the pain of teething is such that you may get days when you cannot touch him without him chewing on you.  If you are there to supervise, you can help him get some cold, numbing relief from this discomfort by offering ice, or toys that have been frozen.  I like to freeze the Whimzeez Dental Chews for this.  They are a natural, vegetable based dental chew, which makes them gentle on the tummy.  If you go this route, choose a size that looks 'too big' for the pup, so you can observe to make sure they aren't getting large chunks off to swallow, posing choking hazards.  This can be done with frozen carrots, or long slices of sweet potato too.

6.  Do Not leave puppy unattended with children. 
I had an 11 week old Beagle in a group class once.  We were doing some off-leash playtime, and he was intent on bothering a much smaller puppy, so I picked him up, via hands around his rib cage, to redirect him.  What resulted was a snarling, snapping, growling, angry little guy.  I gently held him 'til he relaxed, and as I set him down (as reward for calming down) I asked Mom and Dad, "How old are your kids?"  They were shocked, because they had not mentioned they had any. 

Even the sweetest children can be accidentally cruel. 

Not knowing how to respect a puppy, or how to properly pick up a puppy, can result in hurt, which can cause a pup to bite out of desperation.  This can become a bad habit of learning very quickly that the fastest way to 'get free' is to bite...hard.  For the future of your puppy growing up to be a tolerant, patient and trustworthy "kid-dog," please make sure you are supervising interactions with kids.  That way, you are the reasoning and in-control Adult who can help both parties learn to be kind to one another.

7.  It is OK to use Time Out.

Both the toys seen are Nylabone. 

Let's say you have already given the puppy everything he needs, tried Ice, given toys, exercised him, etc, and he still thinks you are more fun to bite.  Totally OK to give him a time out in his kennel or puppy pen.  We all need a break sometimes, and a puppy running on Tilt is no exception.  Just like a tired little kid, he may just need a nap.  This is not a punishment, so make sure he has something to chew on in there that is 'crate-safe,' but give yourself a break.  I do not mean it is OK to stick him in the crate for hours just because you can't handle yourself; I mean a 30-45 min nap would do everyone some good. 

8.  Try not to use "ol' school" methods. 
Without describing them, I will just say that if the "bite fix" method involves striking, or causing him pain, you may be setting yourself up for a true attack later.  There are pups out there that only see this approach as a challenge, and will one day retaliate...Usually after they are much, much faster than you. 

If you are still struggling with it, or you think your pup's biting has an aggressive edge to it, call a professional.  Talk to your Vet, ask about finding a good Teacher, and get some help.  Check out ASPCA's website, or get a book by Dr. Sophia Yin.  You are not alone in fixing this.  This list is also not a 'one-size-fits-all' thing.  Most pups can stop biting and chewing using these methods, but you may have a special case that needs an individual approach.  So don't be afraid to ask. 

We are here for You.

p.s.  Don't leave the pup alone with the kids :)