"He's a Rescue...."

...Is NOT an excuse for not training your dog.

Correction--That is maybe a little harsh.  How about, it is not an acceptable reason for allowing him to yank you all over the place, or jump on strangers, or incessantly bark and carry on as thought the sky is falling; especially when I hear this conversation between you and a stranger...

"Oh, he's a rescue..."
"Oh yeah?  How old is he?"
"We think 7 or so.  They didn't really know at the rescue."
"How long have you had him?"
"5 years."

Five. Years.  You have had that animal for a total of  one thousand, eight hundred and twenty-five days, and he is still acting like this?

Forgive me for a bit of a rant here.  I promise to keep it short.
Not all "rescue" dogs are damaged.   Not correcting, or not teaching them how to be civil in public, is not doing them any favors. 

There are legitimate cases where the most compassionate, and appropriate advise is to back off and allow the dog time to realize you are not there to abuse him.  There are dogs with such fear or shyness, they literally become overwhelmed and cannot function until they have rebuilt Trust in the humans around them.  There is a period of time in which you really do need to allow a "rescue" to adjust.  At some point, these shy guys turn a corner, and start to come out of their shell--they start to show you who they are.  It varies among them, as they are all individuals, but there is no excuse, in my opinion, for allowing an animal to run wild because your soft heart thinks he will hate you for correction.

On the contrary, he will only love you more if you can put your foot down, and teach him what is and isn't appropriate.  Dogs need leaders.  They are not comfortable, or relaxed, or truly happy until they can understand their place in their "pack."  Your household, and those  living in it, constitute that social hierarchy.  When you allow him to act like a giant idiot, he is getting the impression that you are not in control, therefore he feels like he needs to be.  But most dogs (and I know you have heard me say this before) make Absolutely TERRIBLE leaders.

I am not suggesting that you don a uniform and adopt a "surrender or die" approach, and over-dominate your friend.  But there is a need for leadership. 

Trust me, not only will he appreciate it, everyone around you will too.

Let's Look At Carsickness.

"She has anxiety."
"how do you know?"
"She pukes in the car.  Every time!"

Well, Ok.  You may not be entirely wrong on this one.  Your dog may be nervous about riding in the car.  She may well be working herself up so much, that it causes her to throw up.  Knowing that the car makes her feel sick (building a negative association in her mind) may be perpetuating her "anxiety."  This can lead to an increase in nervous behaviors in other aspects of her puppy life.  You may notice that she now has more "anxiety" and doesn't want to get in the car.  In fact, she now doesn't like it when  you try to take her outdoors.  And come to think of it, she's started to hide whenever you pick up the leash....

Or, your dog simply feels nauseous in the car.

So what do you do?  Talk to your vet about nausea medication to help alleviate the physical symptom of throwing up.  Then, prepare to take some time and help your dog form Positive Associations with being in the car. 

The following are some tips and games that can help her see the car as a fun place to be.  This will help her to relax, which may help her leave that pukey-ness behind.  With any of these ideas, begin with a car that is Not running.  Progress to starting the vehicle, and going nowhere.  Then maybe back out of the driveway, and pull back in.  Perhaps around the block after that.  Go at whatever speed of progression your dog seems to be happily handling, and before you know it, you won't have to have two layers of puppy pads and a blanket everywhere you go. 

1. In, Out, Around game.
Open both rear doors of your vehicle.  With your pup on a secure leash/harness or collar, climb in to your car.  Encourage your pup to jump in with you.  Be patient.  You may need lots of treats, or a squeaky toy to do this.  Please do not drag the dog in to the car.  If your dog cannot jump in to the car by themselves, set up a ramp, or steps to help.

Once she does follow you in to the car, make a big fuss over her.  "What a Good Dog!  Ohmahgosh you're amazing! Here's a snack! And you got your toy! Yay!"  Then climb out the other side, and invite her to "out" with you.  Give a smaller level reward for this.  The idea being that getting In the car is more exciting, but we still want to encourage her to do what you ask.

Now, run around the back of the car to the other side, and repeat this.  The game becomes faster as the dog gets better at it, so be aware that your dog may try to jump in and immediately jump out.  Be careful not to allow this.  We don't want to give them the idea that jumping out of the car, without being asked, is ok. 

As she gets the hang of following you in to the car, and back out again.  Try tossing a treat, or her toy on the seat and tell her "IN" or "Load Up" and see if she will jump in before you climb in first.  Again, make a big deal out of this, by following her in to the seat and playing with her.

Once you've mastered it with both doors open, go ahead and close the other door and practice again.  Some dogs will need you to go back to climbing in first, when the opposite door is closed.  That's OK!  Just pretend you are teaching this all over again.  Stay positive.

2. Feed Meals In the Car.
Your dog most likely loves eating.  Sitting in the car together for meals can really go a long way towards a better association.  Obviously, you wouldn't want to take a pukey dog, with a full stomach, for a ride.  This is meant to be an exercise where the dog gets a meal, hangs out in the car for a bit, and either goes for a walk, or goes back in the house when finished.

If whole meals don't sound like your kind of plan, you can accomplish this (albeit a touch slower) with a yummy yummy treat, such as chopped chicken breast, or pieces of cheese.  Basically, you want the dog to begin to associate the car with something wonderful!

3.  Stuffed Kong's Rock.
It still fascinates me how many people do not realize you can stuff a Kong toy, with something other than Peanut Butter..or that you can stuff them at all...

Try a mixture of dog food soaked in chicken broth 'til soft (can substitute just water if you desire), with some smashed sweet potatoes, or a little bit of scrambled eggs, or plain Greek yogurt---Basically anything that will not give  your dog diarrhea, and is on the 'safe to share' foods list (see the following link for a list of things NEVER to share https://www.aspcapro.org/resource/people-foods-pets-should-never-eat  )---Freeze that Kong overnight, then offer it to her in the car.  And yes, this can sometimes make a mess while she works to get at that yummy, so lay a towel or blanket over your seat if you want to save your interior.

4.  Use a Canine Seat-Belt, or otherwise restrain the dog.
The motion of the car might be messing with her sense of balance, and her feeling of security.  If she is accustomed to being in a kennel, and small enough to use one, it is perfectly acceptable to put her crate in the car.  Or to have a 'car kennel.'  If you opt for a crate, this must be strapped in for safety in the event of an accident.

Riding in a canine seat-belt can also be a magical way to help your dog relax. 

Not only are these crash-tested for safety, they prevent your dog from escaping through an open door or window.  Please take time to put this on and reward your dog for wearing it, prior to going anywhere in the vehicle.  With some anti-nausea meds on board, these can be life-savers.  And they do in fact come in size Hugemongous, should your dog actually be the size of a small pony.

My own dog, Rockey, is a pacing, whining, obnoxious disaster in the car...Unless he is properly, comfortably restrained in his seat-belt.  Truly, it is Night and Day how different he becomes--Quiet.  Sitting or laying peacefully.  Happy because he feels secure.

5.  Evaluate if Where You Put the Dog Could be Making Her Dizzy.
Some dogs do just fine in the "way back" of a station wagon, or SUV--some do not.  Try putting your dog in a different seat. 

I had one student whose dog was throwing up every time they went anywhere, for more than five minutes in the car.  Her dog customarily rode behind a pet barrier in the hatch back portion of her vehicle.  After moving him to the back seat (with a seat-belt) he stopped vomiting in the car.

6.  Play With a Favorite Toy.
Yes, I know you cannot have 100 lbs of dog careening around after that tennis ball, while flying down the highway...But, you can sit in your driveway and gently toss that favorite ball to him.  Or you can give him a special squeaky, or something that he cannot destroy, but loves intensely.  Just remember, he is not allowed to take that toy, or bone, in to the house.  Car only.

Sometimes, this really is a 'puppy thing'  that they grow out of, but sometimes not.  The medication may take the puke out of it, but it is up to you to help take the negative association away, so that your dog does not develop actual 'anxiety.'  Taking some time to acclimate your dog the the idea that the car is cool, may eliminate the apparent anxiety.  You might well be one of the lucky ones who are blessed to own a dog who is Happy as Heck to go for a ride, but still needs her meds so she doesn't lose her lunch.  But at least she'll be Happy.

DO NOT's of Prong Collar Use

Part 2 of this article series.
Last time, we looked at some things that are important that you "do" when utilizing the 
prong Tool.  This go 'round, we are looking closely at the things NOT to do.

DO NOT use a prong collar on a fearful animal.  

Even a dog who lunges at other dogs (or people, or cars or bikes, etc) may be coming
from a place of fear.  If you are unsure, ask a qualified professional to help you determine
if your dog’s reaction is fear-based.  

It is unfair to use Pain and Discomfort to control a dog who is afraid.  You may control the
pull, but you will never truly rehabilitate the dog. Doing so may create more anxiety in other
areas of your dog’s life, and wind up with a bigger problem.

DO NOT just stand there popping and yanking on a prong collar

while your dog freaks out.  

This can increase aggressive/reactive response, not eliminate it.  If your dog sees another
dog, lunges and barks, and you respond by just snapping and hurting your dog over and
over again, your dog will quickly grow to hate the sight of other dogs (or people).  One
quick firm snap, and go the other way. Put distance between your dog’s trigger, and get
those rewards flowing.

DO NOT Ever allow your dog to put tension on the collar.  

Any leash tension should be corrected with a quick ‘pop’ or ‘snap’ and an immediate
change in direction.  If you do not break the focus, your dog will not figure this out.

DO NOT get angry.

If you feel yourself popping your dog, and it makes you mad or frustrated, find a different Tool.  

The prong should be handled as a Tool. Your dog needs to respect the leash, not fear you.

DO NOT...please, please, please DO NOT attach a prong collar to a retractable leash.  

We’ve already discussed why any leash tension is to be avoided--Retractables don’t teach
your dog where he belongs.  Period. If he never knows where the boundary is, you will
never actually fix the pull.

DO NOT allow your dog to play with other dogs while wearing his prong.  

As stated earlier, prongs are supposed to be uncomfortable, allowing your dog to wrestle
and play with another dog in a training Tool like this, is setting your dog up for poor social
skills.  Let’s say your dog is only wearing a prong for the fix of a pull, not reactive response,
and you let him wrestle another dog. Potentially, the other dog could slam into the collar,
and your dog may interpret the ensuing discomfort as something the other dog did to him.  
Not to mention dog’s can get their jaws hung up on them, creating a REALLY bad scene
(I’ve seen it),and traumatizing your dog as you try to free them.

DO NOT use a prong on  a puppy.

There is simply no reason to prong a 12 wk old baby dog.  Puppies are soft, sweet and
very sensitive. Every interaction with a young dog (any dog really) is a chance to teach
what you want, in kind and gentle ways.  There are alternatives.
Which brings me to my final point…

DO NOT choose a prong collar as your first Tool to try.  

Most dogs do not need this uncomfortable Tool.  There are plenty of other, non-painful
ways to stop your dog from pulling, lunging, or otherwise embarrassing you.

This Tool is designed to be used with proper fit, and technique, on the right personality.  

If you have questions, please seek the counsel of a Reputable Teacher in this matter. Be careful.  There are a lot of ‘trainers’ out there who do believe that this Tool can be used on any dog, to “fix” any problem. 

A ‘trainer’ who tells you to pop your dog for any infraction can potentially be building a time bomb 
of reactive behavior.  This Tool shouldn't be applied to just any dog.

You cannot Fix Fear with Pain.  

Not all Aggressive responses are actual aggression.

Your dog is not trying to ‘dominate’ you by pulling.

I am not personally against this Tool.  But I am vehemently opposed to seeing this Tool
applied incorrectly.  I do believe there are some dogs out there whose lives have actually
been improved by this Tool; but I have also seen dogs who have been damaged, both
emotionally and physically by the improper use of a prong.

I find it disturbing that anyone can go in to a store, and purchase a prong, with no instruction on fit or use (and for the record, if the tag says to put it over the dog’s head...This is wrong.
You really should have to unclip, or open the collar in order to fit it to the dog).  

95% of the dogs I work with do not need this Tool.  Some dogs, in my opinion,
have to “hit a wall,” so to speak, before they slow down enough to begin to learn.  
I do not think a prong collar should be your dog's lifetime collar. It is a means to
an end. An end where you will not need much more than a flat collar (or no collar)
to have the obedient, trustworthy dog you want.

Do's of Prong Collar Use

In the past few months, the question of the prong collar has come to the forefront of my Teacher ears.  There is precious little one can find about how to properly use this Tool.

In this two-part posting, we will go over the Do's and Don't of Prong Collar use.  And while I know my all positive reinforcement trainer friends will disagree, I do see a time and a place for this Tool.  The other thing I see, is a lack of education for those who do choose this as their training method....It is my intention to help.  With more education, fewer dogs are likely to be hurt by this strong Tool. 

Part 1:  The Do's of Prong Collar Use

Do:  Make certain your dog has the right personality for this tool.  

Most “aggressive” responses you may see, are driven by fear.  A need to protect you, or themselves, can cause a dog to lunge, bark, growl or otherwise attempt to engage negatively with other dogs or people. DO NOT use a prong collar on a fearful animal. It is also ill-advised to use this Tool as a "fix" for aggressive animals.

That being said, the type of personality that does well with this kind of Tool, is that of the "frat-kid" variety: The good-natured, but rambunctious, strong dog. This is a nice dog, but not a fearful, or sensitive dog. He is not suspicious. He is bold. He is eternally playful. He has absolutely no concept of his own strength, size or the frailty of those around him. He is not striving for leadership status, nor is he a "super-sub." In short, he is a well-balanced canine emotionally, with little to no physical control over his actions. Think, 90 lb dog who just LOVES every minute of his life!!!

There is a reason this Tool is still employed in military-style (or traditional) dog training, but it does not belong on most of the dogs who wear them. This should not be your first 'go-to' Tool.

If you are unsure if your dog has the right, solid personality for this Tool, contact a good Teacher who can help.

Do:  Be certain to have the correct fit, and gauge on the collar links.  

Whether you are using a plastic prong, or metal prong collar, correct fit is paramount to proper control.  You can use one, regular leash, and clip the leash to the prong “mushroom” and the slip collar ring, but if you can find a double clipped leash (like the one on the dog in the picture below) or even put a carabiner clip on your regular leash handle and create a double ended leash, that would be best.  Notice the positioning of both collars on the dog in the below picture...the prong is high on the neck, below the ears, and is snug, but not tight, so that when you issue a correction, you are not using a lot of force; if you feel like it takes all of your strength to “correct,” this may not be the proper Tool for your dog.  Or is is the wrong fit/gauge.

Do:  Use a safety collar.  

While they may look and feel very solid, the links on a metal prong collar can sometimes come apart.  

Your safety collar is worn with the prong collar.  Its entire function is to keep your dog attached to your leash, should the links on the prong come apart.  If you are not using a safety backup, you run a risk of having your dog become free and chase down the thing you were trying to prevent him reaching.

The slip collar is large and loose enough to ride low on the neck (the prong sits high and snug, but not too tight.  This gives you the ability to correct quickly, without much force).  Your safety collar is ONLY a backup plan, so when you correct with the prong, the slip actually does nothing to the dog:  It literally is like a seat-belt in a car; sits there until needed.

Do:  Reward and Praise Heavily when your dog is doing the right thing.  

Prong collars hurt.  That’s the point. If you are choosing this as your Tool, you simply MUST start telling  your dog what a Good Boy he is, when he is doing the right thing. You have to talk to your dog, be your dog’s support and cheerleader.  Amp up your Positive space by adding treats (if your dog is not allergic) or pieces of chicken.  You have to help your dog understand when he is in the right, or he may develop aversion to your walks, and begin to distrust his relationship with  you.

Do:  Issue proper ‘snap’ or ‘pop’ correction.

The correction should be firm, but also very quick.  If you are not quick, it becomes a pull or a tug, which can desensitize your dog to the discomfort of the collar, and make it ineffective.  Constant tension on the collar (as in, you still feel the dog is attempting to pull, or you are wrapping the leash up so it is very short) does nothing to teach the dog, except where the end of the leash is.  A dog will continue to lean on a prong, if they are allowed to.

Do:  Start with a strong correction.  

You never want your dog to feel comfortable with the way the ‘pop’ or ‘snap’ feels.  Creating respect (and yes, a bit of fear) for that correction, creates a dog who won’t need the heavy snap in the future.

Do:  Go the other way.

Breaking your dog's focus on whatever is causing him to pull is vital.  Moving away will help avoid creating aggressive response. Do lots of direction changes.  

There are some “trainers” out there who will allow a dog to stare at something they are reacting to, and give light taps to the leash/prong combo, with slow increases in intensity, until the dog finally notices or you yank him hard enough to yelp and want to move away--This is bad advice.  

Doing so will allow  your dog to really learn to dislike the thing that is making him upset.  This is how police and military dogs are taught to lunge and react strongly to the ‘bad guy.’   Basically, your dog is staring at something, he feels the correction, but it is not enough to break his focus; as you stand there adding more and more force to the ‘pop,’ your dog is getting plenty of feedback that the thing approaching is scary and bad, and makes you very upset.  Therefore, most dogs will pile on the aggressive response because you have let them believe that they should do so.

A “pop,” and a direction change (so the dog is no longer looking directly at the upsetting situation), and immediate rewards for going the other way, instead of engaging, tells your dog two things--

1.  Looking at things is fine.  My handler gets happy when they see other dogs/people/bicycles whatever.  And if I am looking, but not reacting, I get rewards and praises.

2. if I lunge or react in a negative way, there is a strong correction, and we are leaving.  When I keep myself under control, chicken and praises rain from the sky.

Do:  Keep your corrections mechanical.

Your dog must learn that leash tension is what creates the discomfort, not you getting mad, or tense.  When we correct, you can say a simple “no,” as the ‘pop’ is happening, if you feel the need to say something.  The moment after the correction, you must affect an aire of good nature. If you cannot correct without emotions behind it, find a different Tool.

Again, if you are using all your force to ‘pop’ the dog, or your feel yourself becoming frustrated, stop.  Evaluate what is triggering the dog, and if the current style of re-direction, or correction is not working, find a different way.  

Showing your dog what is right, vs what is undesirable behaviorally is important in helping them choose to remain under control.  If you are emotionally unstable, your dog will feel as though he needs to take care of the situations around you, and thus, react.

Do:  Give your dog a job, such as Sit, when you come to a stop.  

If you are using a prong, it is training time.  It is not pull you around peeing on bushes, or sniffing in the grass time.  Allow for breaks when you are on a walk, but only when You give the dog permission.  If you want to truly train your dog in this fashion, you cannot be a grey area: It either Is or Is not for a dog.  

Sniff time does not equal pull time.  As you allow your dog to sniff or pee on things, follow him so that the leash is loose.  Remember, we are teaching him to always have a relaxed leash, so as much as possible, follow  him when you allow breaks. Should your dog immediately begin to pull you when you allow this, issue a ‘pop’ but do not reel him back to your side, instead, go the other way.

After you have given your dog a break, and allowed some sniffing to happen, give your dog a clear signal that it is time to focus and walk again.  “Rugar, with me,” or “Rugar, let’s go,” are good ways to let him know that the sniff time is over. Dogs need direction all the time, when they are first learning a skill, if you are inconsistent, plan on your training time to take longer, and for  your dog to constantly be “testing” to see what they can get away with. Set those boundaries and stick to them.

Kid Questions

Recently, I was asked some Wonderful questions by a 5th grade student doing a project on Canine Behavior.  Her questions were so awesome, I thought I would share this exchange with you all.  Hope you can glean some helpful stuff from this :)

 * how can you tell when dogs are sad or mad?

Dogs show their emotions in many different ways.  Much like us, some dogs will act "sad" or "depressed" by wanting to be alone.  Sometimes, they may show little to no interest in the activities they usually enjoy, such as playing with a ball, or going for a walk.  The tricky part is that these symptoms can also be an indication that the dog is not feeling well.  This is why we recommend talking to your vet if you think your dog is acting depressed; sometimes this can mean they are sick or hurting somewhere.  Scientists have proven that dogs experience feelings of loss, and grieve like we do if they lose a friend. 

A dog that is "mad," or upset will demonstrate in different ways as well.  Stiff body postures (head up, ears perked, tail stiff, staring intently) or vocalizations (growling, snarling, showing their teeth in a menacing way--showing teeth can also mean that a dog is trying to be Super Submissive, it just depends on the dog) can be a good way to tell if a dog is upset.  Most dogs who are demonstrating in these ways may actually be very frightened, and are trying their best to make the scary thing, or situation go away.  

Nature gives most animals the instinct to either choose Fight or Flight (to run away) in scary situations; a dog may have reacted by barking or growling to something that made them nervous, and it worked to make the thing go away, so the dog will most likely repeat this behavior. Especially if moving away from the situation is not an option.  Over time, if the dog is subjected to things that make them nervous over and over, without proper re-direction or counter-conditioning, the dog's emotional response will begin to change.  What may have started as a fear-response, can become actual aggression.

* What does it mean when dogs start barking randomly?

Ha Ha! This is a great question!  Most dogs are never barking randomly.  The canine sensory system is so much more sensitive than ours.  They are aware of SO many sounds, sights and smells that we do not notice.  What seems like a random sound, may be motivated by something they heard, or smelled.  

Some dogs do bark because of boredom.  Not getting the mental or physical stimulation they need can lead to chronic barking, simply because the dog is looking for something to do.  This is why it is so important to teach your dog tricks and take them places.  You'd get bored if you never left the house, and the same is true for dogs.  Playing with your dog is a great way to avoid a bored dog.  Play is such an important part of canine behavior! 

 *How can you tell dogs are trying to protect you?

A dog that is trying to protect you will usually put themselves between you and whatever it is they perceive as a threat.  Some dogs have an over-blown or highly-sensitive sense of protection, and try to protect their pack (you or your family members) from just about everything.  Some dogs are very subtle (not very obvious) in their attempts to protect you, and don't bark or growl, but will certainly stand in front of their favorite humans, or stuff.

Some dogs will also try to protect themselves, or their pack, if they are nervous, or scared of things/people/other dogs.  This is usually because the dog has either had a traumatic experience, or a lack of exposure (socialization) to the world around them, and just do not understand that they don't have to be afraid.  Getting these dogs in to a class, or working with a trainer is a good idea for these dogs.  It can change how they feel about the world, and may help them to relax and not feel like they have to be so protective.

* What does the dogs ear movements mean?

Again, this greatly depends on the dog, but most dogs will prick their ears forward (yes, even dogs with floppy ears) when they are alert, or excited, or defensive.  You have to look at the rest of the dog's body to really tell if those ears mean something you may want to be careful about.

Tucking the ears close to the head, can be submission, fear or an indication that the dog is uncomfortable.  They are trying to look smaller, and less threatening by flattening their ears to their head.

A dog with a "relaxed ear set" is usually just chillin'.  It is always important to look at the whole dog to determine what may be going on with them emotionally.  I have a dog with huge, floppy ears, so it is sometimes hard to tell when his ears are perked up.  When he flattens them, as in, when he is scared of something, those ears don't change too much, so I have to look at how he is carrying his head, where his tail is, and how he is acting otherwise.  Parts of the dog may tell you only part of the story.

 *Does the tail movement have to do anything with their emotions?

Your dog's tail has a lot to say about how they are feeling.  A wagging tail does not always mean a friendly dog.  There was a behavioral study by National Geographic that explored the direction of a wag, as it relates to what it may be communicating.  The link is here  https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/left-or-right-tail-wags-elicit-different-emotional-responses-from-dogs/  if you'd like to check it out.

Most dogs respond favorably to a dog who has a relaxed set (neither up, nor down, but wagging in the middle) and wagging more to the right.  This seems to be telling other dogs that they are open and friendly, while a left-side wag made dogs want to leave that dog alone. 

If a dog has a very high, stiff, tight looking wagging tail, this may mean that he is excited, but also VERY ready for action.  Some dogs will wag like this when they are chasing a rabbit, or even when they are preparing to defend themselves. 

A low or tucked tail can mean that the dog is uncomfortable, nervous or trying to show that they are non-threatening.  Giving this sort of dog a bit of space, and allowing them to choose when they would like to approach you is the best plan.

There are also dogs out there who do not have much of a tail.  This can make it tough to use the tail as a tell for how the dog is feeling.  Watching the rest of the dog's body language will help in these instances.  If you are unsure, it is always a good idea to give a dog space, and wait for them to decide if they want to interact with you.

As a general rule, any time a dog goes very still, they are trying to warn you that they may need space.

The Other Side of the Fence is not Greener...

...It's Mine!

Which is essentially the "rock bottom" reason your dog goes nuts when the neighbor dogs are out.  When you have a lovely fence separating two spaces, it is sometimes very natural for a dog to feel as though they must protect that space from invaders.  What started out as an investigation (*sniff, sniff who is that over there...) may have now become "I can't let him out while those other dogs are out, 'cuz he goes nuts!"

We could get in to the nitty-gritty of certain personality triggers, or what your dog vs. their dog may be doing to make this worse, but that's not why you're here, is it?  You would like some peace and quiet when the dogs go outside.  So how do we get that?

Dogs bark.  It's what they do.  They are communicating all sorts of things with these vocalizations, and realizing this, can help us relax a little.  I do not expect my dogs to be silent weirdos who never acknowledge a possible threat, but I do expect them to shut their yap when asked.  'Asked' being the key there.  Yelling at your dog will not make them be quiet--there is a guy in my neighborhood with almost comic levels of anger at the barker in his backyard; "Barrar Arr! Barrar Arr!" says his dog.  "SHUUUUUT UUUUP!" says perfectly controlled man, screaming loud enough to be heard two blocks over (really, his range is impressive).  Over and over this is repeated.  For hours.  Obviously this is an unhealthy relationship, and no one is learning anything.

But I got side-tracked, we are talking directly to Fence Fighting.  Your dog is telling the neighbor's to 'get off my lawn.' The neighbor's dogs are saying 'no, you get off mine! And I hate your face!' To which your dog escalates, 'OH YEAH?! I HATE YOUR FACE TOO!' and so on...Cease and desist, shall we...?

First of all, does your dog have the slightest idea of what Leave It means? 

Does your dog hear it as something ineffectively shouted, or threatened in their general direction when they are freaking out?  Or is this a cue that invokes a tail wag and a "Sweet! They said my favorite thing, they've got snacks!" ?

Teaching your dog to Leave It, in a non-exciting environment, like your living room, and then proofing it in different areas can lay the groundwork for a dog who comes away from something tense, like a fence-fight.

Speaking of "fighting"...
If you have multiple dogs, who are so upset at the dogs on the other side, that they are turning on each other, you have a situation we call Redirected Aggression.  I prefer to think of it as Redirected Over-Stimulation, because that's exactly what is happening.  Your dog (or dogs) are so amped up about something, that they 'gotta put it somewhere, and it just happens to be the dog barking and freaking out right next to him.  In this case, for the safety of all involved, please stop allowing them out together.  Someone is bound to wind up heading to the ER.

It is not recommended to use deterrent methods to stop this sort of explosion.  Things such as 'shock collars' can be a disaster, if your timing is not precise.  When a dog is in a heightened state of arousal, i.e. his adrenaline is pumping and he is just a maniac, his response to discomfort or pain is diminished.  You may be adding fuel to the fire, in other words.

First of all, close your dog door, or remove it.  You cannot successfully control your dogs actions, if he has access to that space when you are not around to do something about it.

Put a leash on your dog when he goes outside.

A nice long one works, or even a retractable (it's one of the few applications I actually approve of using those things for).  I know, I am asking SOoooo much of you here; to put on shoes, maybe a light jacket, to clip a leash to your pup, and to go (gasp) Outdoors every time you want to let the dog out to pee, but it works.  If you cannot physically pull your dog off the fence, or prevent him from wanting to go over there in the first place--*dog tenses..."Leave it"...dog wags tail, looks up at you..."Good dog!" dog enjoys reward, and you move to a different part of yard...*--you are fighting a losing battle.

Yes, this way takes longer, but the end result is that you eventually Will be able to just send him outside.  Keeping an eye on him and calling "leave it" should you notice the slightest bit of tension towards those fools next door....yes, you should keep the rewards coming for leaving that situation alone.

Just because he learns not to do it, does not mean he is "cured" of the natural reaction he may feel when another dog is yelling at him through the fence-boards.  Over time, he will begin to feel differently about it, and may even stop caring altogether, but that sort of excitement holds a certain appeal for dogs; it's exciting--You have to be more so.

Instead of quashing the behavior with a heavy punishment, you are literally reprogramming the way he thinks, and feels about the dogs next door.  You are teaching him that their lack of control, means good stuff for him.

There are "lazy man" ways to help this too.  I call them lazy, but in reality, if your situation really does dictate that you have no time to work on a good and proper "leave it," you might consider some of the following:

Install Automatic Sprinklers along your fenceline.

  Point them where you choose, but the idea is to keep both your dog, and the neighbor's dogs out of that space.

Look into a Sonic Critter Chaser.  Not a sonic bark corrector, but a critter chaser--these are designed to chase wildlife, such as rabbits, deer, and coyote out of gardens, but you'd be surprised at how well they work to deter canines from entering a zone as well.

Use a squirt-bottle or super-soaker (should you want some range).  If your dog has an aversion to being squirted, go ahead and do it.  You need to try and catch it before it blows up, and you should probably follow it up with some rewards when the dog does the right thing.  If you squirt him, and he moves away from the fence, you should tell him he is Good, and give him a snack, and play with him.  Choices are important.

Install a secondary barrier.  The trouble is that your dog sees that dog as right up against his property line...so back the line up. 

Installing another fence, even a simple post and wire number, and placing it at least 3 feet (1 meter) away from the existing fence, can greatly increase your odds of success.  You'll cut the amount of time it takes for your dog to understand the Leave It training too.  In other words, you can bring down the excitement level by not having the other dogs two inches from your upset dogs face.

Plant annoying, thick growing bushes along the fence.  Again, the idea is to create a barrier that helps your dog not be right up the nose of the neighbor's dogs.  Be careful to choose plants that are non-toxic, and without thorns.  You will need to put temporary fence around these until they are mature, and keep your dog off them, otherwise they won't grow and you'll have wasted time and money.

Talking to your neighbors about the trouble can also be helpful.  Some people are happy to help on their side of the fence too. 

Find out if you are allowed to toss treats to their dogs; sometimes, all it takes is for both sides to realize we are friends.

I guess the short answer after all that, is to say that unless you do something to change the situation, it will only grow worse.  The dogs will get more and more frustrated, and begin to take it out on other situations.  You may notice increasing leash reactivity towards other dogs, or people.  When your dog lives in a constant state of stress (arousal, aggression, over-stimulation) they cannot enjoy life.

Once your dog has learned to Leave It, and you feel as though your dog has begun to see the dogs next door differently, move on to other behaviors.  Play with your dog more, in the space you have created for them by calming the situation.  Teach them other behaviors in the back yard...a new trick being learned while the neighbor's freak out may seem like a long way off, but you gotta start somewhere....