Let's Look At Carsickness.

"She has anxiety."
"how do you know?"
"She pukes in the car.  Every time!"

Well, Ok.  You may not be entirely wrong on this one.  Your dog may be nervous about riding in the car.  She may well be working herself up so much, that it causes her to throw up.  Knowing that the car makes her feel sick (building a negative association in her mind) may be perpetuating her "anxiety."  This can lead to an increase in nervous behaviors in other aspects of her puppy life.  You may notice that she now has more "anxiety" and doesn't want to get in the car.  In fact, she now doesn't like it when  you try to take her outdoors.  And come to think of it, she's started to hide whenever you pick up the leash....

Or, your dog simply feels nauseous in the car.

So what do you do?  Talk to your vet about nausea medication to help alleviate the physical symptom of throwing up.  Then, prepare to take some time and help your dog form Positive Associations with being in the car. 

The following are some tips and games that can help her see the car as a fun place to be.  This will help her to relax, which may help her leave that pukey-ness behind.  With any of these ideas, begin with a car that is Not running.  Progress to starting the vehicle, and going nowhere.  Then maybe back out of the driveway, and pull back in.  Perhaps around the block after that.  Go at whatever speed of progression your dog seems to be happily handling, and before you know it, you won't have to have two layers of puppy pads and a blanket everywhere you go. 

1. In, Out, Around game.
Open both rear doors of your vehicle.  With your pup on a secure leash/harness or collar, climb in to your car.  Encourage your pup to jump in with you.  Be patient.  You may need lots of treats, or a squeaky toy to do this.  Please do not drag the dog in to the car.  If your dog cannot jump in to the car by themselves, set up a ramp, or steps to help.

Once she does follow you in to the car, make a big fuss over her.  "What a Good Dog!  Ohmahgosh you're amazing! Here's a snack! And you got your toy! Yay!"  Then climb out the other side, and invite her to "out" with you.  Give a smaller level reward for this.  The idea being that getting In the car is more exciting, but we still want to encourage her to do what you ask.

Now, run around the back of the car to the other side, and repeat this.  The game becomes faster as the dog gets better at it, so be aware that your dog may try to jump in and immediately jump out.  Be careful not to allow this.  We don't want to give them the idea that jumping out of the car, without being asked, is ok. 

As she gets the hang of following you in to the car, and back out again.  Try tossing a treat, or her toy on the seat and tell her "IN" or "Load Up" and see if she will jump in before you climb in first.  Again, make a big deal out of this, by following her in to the seat and playing with her.

Once you've mastered it with both doors open, go ahead and close the other door and practice again.  Some dogs will need you to go back to climbing in first, when the opposite door is closed.  That's OK!  Just pretend you are teaching this all over again.  Stay positive.

2. Feed Meals In the Car.
Your dog most likely loves eating.  Sitting in the car together for meals can really go a long way towards a better association.  Obviously, you wouldn't want to take a pukey dog, with a full stomach, for a ride.  This is meant to be an exercise where the dog gets a meal, hangs out in the car for a bit, and either goes for a walk, or goes back in the house when finished.

If whole meals don't sound like your kind of plan, you can accomplish this (albeit a touch slower) with a yummy yummy treat, such as chopped chicken breast, or pieces of cheese.  Basically, you want the dog to begin to associate the car with something wonderful!

3.  Stuffed Kong's Rock.
It still fascinates me how many people do not realize you can stuff a Kong toy, with something other than Peanut Butter..or that you can stuff them at all...

Try a mixture of dog food soaked in chicken broth 'til soft (can substitute just water if you desire), with some smashed sweet potatoes, or a little bit of scrambled eggs, or plain Greek yogurt---Basically anything that will not give  your dog diarrhea, and is on the 'safe to share' foods list (see the following link for a list of things NEVER to share https://www.aspcapro.org/resource/people-foods-pets-should-never-eat  )---Freeze that Kong overnight, then offer it to her in the car.  And yes, this can sometimes make a mess while she works to get at that yummy, so lay a towel or blanket over your seat if you want to save your interior.

4.  Use a Canine Seat-Belt, or otherwise restrain the dog.
The motion of the car might be messing with her sense of balance, and her feeling of security.  If she is accustomed to being in a kennel, and small enough to use one, it is perfectly acceptable to put her crate in the car.  Or to have a 'car kennel.'  If you opt for a crate, this must be strapped in for safety in the event of an accident.

Riding in a canine seat-belt can also be a magical way to help your dog relax. 

Not only are these crash-tested for safety, they prevent your dog from escaping through an open door or window.  Please take time to put this on and reward your dog for wearing it, prior to going anywhere in the vehicle.  With some anti-nausea meds on board, these can be life-savers.  And they do in fact come in size Hugemongous, should your dog actually be the size of a small pony.

My own dog, Rockey, is a pacing, whining, obnoxious disaster in the car...Unless he is properly, comfortably restrained in his seat-belt.  Truly, it is Night and Day how different he becomes--Quiet.  Sitting or laying peacefully.  Happy because he feels secure.

5.  Evaluate if Where You Put the Dog Could be Making Her Dizzy.
Some dogs do just fine in the "way back" of a station wagon, or SUV--some do not.  Try putting your dog in a different seat. 

I had one student whose dog was throwing up every time they went anywhere, for more than five minutes in the car.  Her dog customarily rode behind a pet barrier in the hatch back portion of her vehicle.  After moving him to the back seat (with a seat-belt) he stopped vomiting in the car.

6.  Play With a Favorite Toy.
Yes, I know you cannot have 100 lbs of dog careening around after that tennis ball, while flying down the highway...But, you can sit in your driveway and gently toss that favorite ball to him.  Or you can give him a special squeaky, or something that he cannot destroy, but loves intensely.  Just remember, he is not allowed to take that toy, or bone, in to the house.  Car only.

Sometimes, this really is a 'puppy thing'  that they grow out of, but sometimes not.  The medication may take the puke out of it, but it is up to you to help take the negative association away, so that your dog does not develop actual 'anxiety.'  Taking some time to acclimate your dog the the idea that the car is cool, may eliminate the apparent anxiety.  You might well be one of the lucky ones who are blessed to own a dog who is Happy as Heck to go for a ride, but still needs her meds so she doesn't lose her lunch.  But at least she'll be Happy.

DO NOT's of Prong Collar Use

Part 2 of this article series.
Last time, we looked at some things that are important that you "do" when utilizing the 
prong Tool.  This go 'round, we are looking closely at the things NOT to do.

DO NOT use a prong collar on a fearful animal.  

Even a dog who lunges at other dogs (or people, or cars or bikes, etc) may be coming
from a place of fear.  If you are unsure, ask a qualified professional to help you determine
if your dog’s reaction is fear-based.  

It is unfair to use Pain and Discomfort to control a dog who is afraid.  You may control the
pull, but you will never truly rehabilitate the dog. Doing so may create more anxiety in other
areas of your dog’s life, and wind up with a bigger problem.

DO NOT just stand there popping and yanking on a prong collar

while your dog freaks out.  

This can increase aggressive/reactive response, not eliminate it.  If your dog sees another
dog, lunges and barks, and you respond by just snapping and hurting your dog over and
over again, your dog will quickly grow to hate the sight of other dogs (or people).  One
quick firm snap, and go the other way. Put distance between your dog’s trigger, and get
those rewards flowing.

DO NOT Ever allow your dog to put tension on the collar.  

Any leash tension should be corrected with a quick ‘pop’ or ‘snap’ and an immediate
change in direction.  If you do not break the focus, your dog will not figure this out.

DO NOT get angry.

If you feel yourself popping your dog, and it makes you mad or frustrated, find a different Tool.  

The prong should be handled as a Tool. Your dog needs to respect the leash, not fear you.

DO NOT...please, please, please DO NOT attach a prong collar to a retractable leash.  

We’ve already discussed why any leash tension is to be avoided--Retractables don’t teach
your dog where he belongs.  Period. If he never knows where the boundary is, you will
never actually fix the pull.

DO NOT allow your dog to play with other dogs while wearing his prong.  

As stated earlier, prongs are supposed to be uncomfortable, allowing your dog to wrestle
and play with another dog in a training Tool like this, is setting your dog up for poor social
skills.  Let’s say your dog is only wearing a prong for the fix of a pull, not reactive response,
and you let him wrestle another dog. Potentially, the other dog could slam into the collar,
and your dog may interpret the ensuing discomfort as something the other dog did to him.  
Not to mention dog’s can get their jaws hung up on them, creating a REALLY bad scene
(I’ve seen it),and traumatizing your dog as you try to free them.

DO NOT use a prong on  a puppy.

There is simply no reason to prong a 12 wk old baby dog.  Puppies are soft, sweet and
very sensitive. Every interaction with a young dog (any dog really) is a chance to teach
what you want, in kind and gentle ways.  There are alternatives.
Which brings me to my final point…

DO NOT choose a prong collar as your first Tool to try.  

Most dogs do not need this uncomfortable Tool.  There are plenty of other, non-painful
ways to stop your dog from pulling, lunging, or otherwise embarrassing you.

This Tool is designed to be used with proper fit, and technique, on the right personality.  

If you have questions, please seek the counsel of a Reputable Teacher in this matter. Be careful.  There are a lot of ‘trainers’ out there who do believe that this Tool can be used on any dog, to “fix” any problem. 

A ‘trainer’ who tells you to pop your dog for any infraction can potentially be building a time bomb 
of reactive behavior.  This Tool shouldn't be applied to just any dog.

You cannot Fix Fear with Pain.  

Not all Aggressive responses are actual aggression.

Your dog is not trying to ‘dominate’ you by pulling.

I am not personally against this Tool.  But I am vehemently opposed to seeing this Tool
applied incorrectly.  I do believe there are some dogs out there whose lives have actually
been improved by this Tool; but I have also seen dogs who have been damaged, both
emotionally and physically by the improper use of a prong.

I find it disturbing that anyone can go in to a store, and purchase a prong, with no instruction on fit or use (and for the record, if the tag says to put it over the dog’s head...This is wrong.
You really should have to unclip, or open the collar in order to fit it to the dog).  

95% of the dogs I work with do not need this Tool.  Some dogs, in my opinion,
have to “hit a wall,” so to speak, before they slow down enough to begin to learn.  
I do not think a prong collar should be your dog's lifetime collar. It is a means to
an end. An end where you will not need much more than a flat collar (or no collar)
to have the obedient, trustworthy dog you want.

Do's of Prong Collar Use

In the past few months, the question of the prong collar has come to the forefront of my Teacher ears.  There is precious little one can find about how to properly use this Tool.

In this two-part posting, we will go over the Do's and Don't of Prong Collar use.  And while I know my all positive reinforcement trainer friends will disagree, I do see a time and a place for this Tool.  The other thing I see, is a lack of education for those who do choose this as their training method....It is my intention to help.  With more education, fewer dogs are likely to be hurt by this strong Tool. 

Part 1:  The Do's of Prong Collar Use

Do:  Make certain your dog has the right personality for this tool.  

Most “aggressive” responses you may see, are driven by fear.  A need to protect you, or themselves, can cause a dog to lunge, bark, growl or otherwise attempt to engage negatively with other dogs or people. DO NOT use a prong collar on a fearful animal. It is also ill-advised to use this Tool as a "fix" for aggressive animals.

That being said, the type of personality that does well with this kind of Tool, is that of the "frat-kid" variety: The good-natured, but rambunctious, strong dog. This is a nice dog, but not a fearful, or sensitive dog. He is not suspicious. He is bold. He is eternally playful. He has absolutely no concept of his own strength, size or the frailty of those around him. He is not striving for leadership status, nor is he a "super-sub." In short, he is a well-balanced canine emotionally, with little to no physical control over his actions. Think, 90 lb dog who just LOVES every minute of his life!!!

There is a reason this Tool is still employed in military-style (or traditional) dog training, but it does not belong on most of the dogs who wear them. This should not be your first 'go-to' Tool.

If you are unsure if your dog has the right, solid personality for this Tool, contact a good Teacher who can help.

Do:  Be certain to have the correct fit, and gauge on the collar links.  

Whether you are using a plastic prong, or metal prong collar, correct fit is paramount to proper control.  You can use one, regular leash, and clip the leash to the prong “mushroom” and the slip collar ring, but if you can find a double clipped leash (like the one on the dog in the picture below) or even put a carabiner clip on your regular leash handle and create a double ended leash, that would be best.  Notice the positioning of both collars on the dog in the below picture...the prong is high on the neck, below the ears, and is snug, but not tight, so that when you issue a correction, you are not using a lot of force; if you feel like it takes all of your strength to “correct,” this may not be the proper Tool for your dog.  Or is is the wrong fit/gauge.

Do:  Use a safety collar.  

While they may look and feel very solid, the links on a metal prong collar can sometimes come apart.  

Your safety collar is worn with the prong collar.  Its entire function is to keep your dog attached to your leash, should the links on the prong come apart.  If you are not using a safety backup, you run a risk of having your dog become free and chase down the thing you were trying to prevent him reaching.

The slip collar is large and loose enough to ride low on the neck (the prong sits high and snug, but not too tight.  This gives you the ability to correct quickly, without much force).  Your safety collar is ONLY a backup plan, so when you correct with the prong, the slip actually does nothing to the dog:  It literally is like a seat-belt in a car; sits there until needed.

Do:  Reward and Praise Heavily when your dog is doing the right thing.  

Prong collars hurt.  That’s the point. If you are choosing this as your Tool, you simply MUST start telling  your dog what a Good Boy he is, when he is doing the right thing. You have to talk to your dog, be your dog’s support and cheerleader.  Amp up your Positive space by adding treats (if your dog is not allergic) or pieces of chicken.  You have to help your dog understand when he is in the right, or he may develop aversion to your walks, and begin to distrust his relationship with  you.

Do:  Issue proper ‘snap’ or ‘pop’ correction.

The correction should be firm, but also very quick.  If you are not quick, it becomes a pull or a tug, which can desensitize your dog to the discomfort of the collar, and make it ineffective.  Constant tension on the collar (as in, you still feel the dog is attempting to pull, or you are wrapping the leash up so it is very short) does nothing to teach the dog, except where the end of the leash is.  A dog will continue to lean on a prong, if they are allowed to.

Do:  Start with a strong correction.  

You never want your dog to feel comfortable with the way the ‘pop’ or ‘snap’ feels.  Creating respect (and yes, a bit of fear) for that correction, creates a dog who won’t need the heavy snap in the future.

Do:  Go the other way.

Breaking your dog's focus on whatever is causing him to pull is vital.  Moving away will help avoid creating aggressive response. Do lots of direction changes.  

There are some “trainers” out there who will allow a dog to stare at something they are reacting to, and give light taps to the leash/prong combo, with slow increases in intensity, until the dog finally notices or you yank him hard enough to yelp and want to move away--This is bad advice.  

Doing so will allow  your dog to really learn to dislike the thing that is making him upset.  This is how police and military dogs are taught to lunge and react strongly to the ‘bad guy.’   Basically, your dog is staring at something, he feels the correction, but it is not enough to break his focus; as you stand there adding more and more force to the ‘pop,’ your dog is getting plenty of feedback that the thing approaching is scary and bad, and makes you very upset.  Therefore, most dogs will pile on the aggressive response because you have let them believe that they should do so.

A “pop,” and a direction change (so the dog is no longer looking directly at the upsetting situation), and immediate rewards for going the other way, instead of engaging, tells your dog two things--

1.  Looking at things is fine.  My handler gets happy when they see other dogs/people/bicycles whatever.  And if I am looking, but not reacting, I get rewards and praises.

2. if I lunge or react in a negative way, there is a strong correction, and we are leaving.  When I keep myself under control, chicken and praises rain from the sky.

Do:  Keep your corrections mechanical.

Your dog must learn that leash tension is what creates the discomfort, not you getting mad, or tense.  When we correct, you can say a simple “no,” as the ‘pop’ is happening, if you feel the need to say something.  The moment after the correction, you must affect an aire of good nature. If you cannot correct without emotions behind it, find a different Tool.

Again, if you are using all your force to ‘pop’ the dog, or your feel yourself becoming frustrated, stop.  Evaluate what is triggering the dog, and if the current style of re-direction, or correction is not working, find a different way.  

Showing your dog what is right, vs what is undesirable behaviorally is important in helping them choose to remain under control.  If you are emotionally unstable, your dog will feel as though he needs to take care of the situations around you, and thus, react.

Do:  Give your dog a job, such as Sit, when you come to a stop.  

If you are using a prong, it is training time.  It is not pull you around peeing on bushes, or sniffing in the grass time.  Allow for breaks when you are on a walk, but only when You give the dog permission.  If you want to truly train your dog in this fashion, you cannot be a grey area: It either Is or Is not for a dog.  

Sniff time does not equal pull time.  As you allow your dog to sniff or pee on things, follow him so that the leash is loose.  Remember, we are teaching him to always have a relaxed leash, so as much as possible, follow  him when you allow breaks. Should your dog immediately begin to pull you when you allow this, issue a ‘pop’ but do not reel him back to your side, instead, go the other way.

After you have given your dog a break, and allowed some sniffing to happen, give your dog a clear signal that it is time to focus and walk again.  “Rugar, with me,” or “Rugar, let’s go,” are good ways to let him know that the sniff time is over. Dogs need direction all the time, when they are first learning a skill, if you are inconsistent, plan on your training time to take longer, and for  your dog to constantly be “testing” to see what they can get away with. Set those boundaries and stick to them.