Resource Guarding: Food Aggression

 A while back, we discussed the basic drives behind a dog who might want to guard, protect, and otherwise act like Golem about “their” food, toys and other good things in their lives. **see article “MINE” April 2014, in the blog list**

What we didn’t really discuss was how to go about fixing this in your home.  Well folks, you are in luck! Today we are going to give you a handy How To.  We are going to go over how to help a dog who wants to guard his food, and possibly attack other dogs in your home.  

We will not be addressing how to work with a dog who goes after You, or other people in your home, when food is present.  That particular problem can have a few different motivations, and based on the individual dog, might need to be handled a number of different ways.  That being said, if your dog is threatening you over food, please contact a qualified professional Teacher (dog trainer) to help you with this dangerous scene.

Ok, back to helping your pup learn how Not to freak out about food, in the presence of another dog.

1. Do not free-feed the dogs.  This gives entirely too many opportunities for some dogs to learn how to push their “siblings” around.

2. Control the situation as much as possible, by using crates, folding pens, or baby-gates so the dogs cannot physically harm each other.  

3. If you are dealing with Cujo, it may be helpful to start by feeding them in separate rooms.  This is obviously not a Fix, as the dog really won’t learn how to let go of this behavior.  It is the safest way to feed, if you do not have time to work with the dog.

4. Sometimes, in lower levels of this resource guarding behavior, you can get results by having the offending dog on leash, so he cannot reach his ‘sibling.’ This can be tricky if the other dog also wishes to come around and investigate the food bowl.  In this instance, put leashes on all the dogs.  Tie them to something stout, or use a helper that can take good direction.

5. Work on basic obedience cues.  
   
   
   Teaching your pups how to Sit, and Wait before diving into their food should be priority.  You may have to work with them separately to teach these  cues.  Once you have taught them to Wait politely for the bowl to be placed on the ground, and your release cue, before being allowed to eat, you can then move on to actually helping them get past this frustrating behavior.

OK, so you’ve checked that the dogs are secured, a ways away form each other.  In this example, we are going to assume that both dogs are secured in kennels.  Make sure these kennels do not share a wall, and that there is distance between them.  A more intense dog will need more space between them, then one that might have only a minor issue.

If your dogs have already had a fight or two, and someone has gotten hurt, please make sure that this distance is quite a bit.  One family we worked with, had to start with the kennels situated so one was actually in another room.  The door to the room was open, so the dogs could hear each other, but the visual intensity was removed.  Go at whatever speed your dog needs.

1. Begin by preparing something extra yummy, like chopped up chicken, or beef.  **Note, if the smell of food is triggering the aggression, please lock them up in kennels, separate rooms, or put them behind those gates, BEFORE you prepare any food.

2. Put only a few kibbles of dog food in each bowl.  

3. Go to the ‘good dog’ and ask for the Sit, Wait (or Stay, whatever you normally use).

4. Go to the ‘food guarding monster’ and ask him to Sit, Wait.

5. Place the bowl for ‘food guarding monster’ in the kennel.  He should be proficient enough with Sit and Wait, to not immediately dive in to the bowl.

6. Close the kennel door, and tell him “OK!” or “Feast!” and allow him to dive in for the few kibbles you offered.

7. Give the Good Dog his bowl of a few kibbles (ask for a short Sit and Wait first), and return immediately to the ‘food guarding monster.’ He should have just finished the small snack.  Use a ‘Slow Feeder’ bowl to give yourself extra time.  Offer him a piece of chicken, and ask him to Sit, or something equally simple.  Give another piece of chicken when he does what you’ve asked.  

8. Repeat.  

Your mealtime will be extended.  You will need at least half and hour, or more, to work through a dog’s normal portion of food in this way, but trust us, this helps.  

What if the dog is so intense about it, that he cannot focus at all when the other dog is present?  He just “goes nuts” every time the food and the other dog are in the same area; even if you have them in separate kennels?

In that case, you can put more distance between them, or experiment with what really motivates that little monster.  For the record, even if it is a 150 lb dog, I will still call them “little” based on the behaviors…anyway….

1. Enlist the help of another person.

2. Separate them accordingly.

3. Place a few kibbles of food in the Good Dog’s bowl, and only two or three kibbles in the ‘food guarding monster’s’ bowl

4. Have your High Value chicken bits at the ready

5. Direct your helper to go to the Good Dog’s kennel, and begin the Sit and Wait for the bowl routine.

6. While this is happening, give small bits of chicken to the ‘food guarding monster.’ If he can focus and does not seem to be interested in the other dog, you can ask for a Sit and Wait. But you may want to start by just giving him a delicious snack and convincing him that while the other dog is getting a bowl, he is getting something Much more awesome.  This also helps remove any anxiety he may be feeling due to the presence of a Bowl.  Dogs connect events.  Bowl = Food = I might lose that food to the other dog = I must protect/guard this resource = I become a Food Guarding Monster.  Removing the bowl and offering only chicken can help.  Keeping him working for that chicken is Better!  Asking him to perform basic things, like Sit, or Shake, to get that chicken puts his brain in work mode—that is a more controlled state of mind.

7. If he can handle the other dog getting the bowl, while he gets chicken, move on to offering him the bowl with only 2-3 kibbles in it.  This short amount of time that he gets to eat, can help avoid his falling in to the obsessive behavior of needing to guard that resource.

8. The moment he finishes those few kibbles, put him to work for chicken.

9. Make sure your helper is continuing to work through the other dog’s food, a few kibbles at at time.  Asking for that Sit and Wait before putting the bowl down and giving the release cue.  This gives you ample time to “Work” the ‘food guarding monster’ through a meal.

When you reach a point that ‘food guarding monster’ seems to be more focused on the chicken bits, than what’s happening with the other dog, you can graduate him to a bigger challenge.  Give him a bit more kibble in the bowl.  Not a lot, mind you, maybe a small handful (be sure to increase the offering for the Good Dog as well).  Getting to this point may take a few weeks. Again, go slow.  It is better to work in the first stages of this for too long, and really set the dog up for success, than to rush it and wind up back where you started.

This change is a pivotal point in figuring out whether or not the dog is ready to move forward.  If he is ready for this, the additional time he spends noshing food from the bowl, should not bring him back to Golem status.  Meaning, he should finish the portion and look to you for that chicken.  

If he falls immediately into a body posture of stiffness, or growls or indicates at all that he thinks the other dog is the place to put his focus, back up and resume giving him only a few pieces of food at a time.

As the ‘food guarding monster’ gets less stressed about the idea that he is missing out on something delicious, you can begin to offer him a larger portion; working towards the goal of being able to provide his entire portion, without him losing his composure.

Remember to keep that chicken handy, as he will need reinforcement when he finishes his food.  This will not be a forever thing.  

Once he can move through the process, with a normal portion of food, and does not seem tense.  Start to move the Good Dog a little closer.  Again, this takes time.  Some families have decided that this is where they stop.  That’s ok.  The dogs are controlled, confined and safe.  

If you choose to move forward, the following steps can be taken:

1. Move the crates about a foot closer together, and repeat the process of using only a few kibbles at a time.  

2. You may have to Back Up and dole out a bunch of those small bits of chicken again.  Remember, every time you change something, you have to help the dog generalize the behavior.

3. If the ‘food guarding monster’ is handling it well, move those crates about a foot closer together at the next meal and see how it goes.

4. Should the ‘food guarding monster’ show any tension at all, go slow, and try to build the behaviors he’s now familiar with.  Here is 3 kibbles, Dude.  Sit.  Wait.  OK, Feast! And now here’s Chicken.  Can you Sit?  Good!  Here’s more chicken.  And so on.

5. The goal may be to have their kennels right next to each other and providing meals.  Please remember that the Good Dog, is probably afraid of the ‘food guarding monster.’ Keeping about 6-8” between the kennels/crates provides a safety barrier in case something goes south.  

6. If the dog does well for a couple days, but shows signs of reverting to Golem, simply put more space between them and practice with the ‘early’ stage again.  He may not be ready, or just really can’t let go of this natural, but frustrating behavior.

Q: How do we get them to just be cool without the crates, gates or pen?

A: Use leashes.  You may need a helper.  Follow the same protocol:  Distance between them; start slow; offer small amounts; ask for good behaviors; reward and distract with a more desirable snack.

If you are working by yourself, tie the Good Dog to something so you can focus on working the ‘food guarding monster.’ As he gets better at relaxing, you can move him closer in small increments.

Q: What kind of correction can we give?

A:  Provided that you have taken the time to build alternative behaviors (focus on the better reward, and don’t fall into Golem mind), and the dog has demonstrated that they can focus and behave a bit, it is ok to issue a firm, “NO!” should the dog rush, or growl at the other dog.  

This should be followed immediately by removing him to a safe distance, and resume the exercise at that distance.  

We want to avoid this situation as much as we can.  While you should correct for this outburst, it is unfair to continue to force him into a situation where he feels the need to fight for that resource.  This is a stressful thing for him, for you, and for the Good Dog.  This can put your Good Dog into a state of mind where he can start to believe that fighting is the only alternative; now you have Two (or more) dogs who feel like fighting. 

Separation Anxiety: How to Avoid It; How to Help It

 "Oh my Gawd...What. Did. You. Do!?!"

"I can't leave him alone, he gets mad and piddles on the floor."

"My shoes...My couch...My stairwell banisters...OH and the neighbors hate him for the howling..."

How many times have you returned home, only to find the inside of your house looks like a small tornado hit it?

Though it may be easy to believe your dog is getting back at you for leaving him, or that he is thinking "I hate my person sooo much, I'm gonna eat his favorite chair!" you'd be wrong. Dogs do not act out with that kind of forethought. What you are seeing is the end result of extreme stress.

True, full-blown cases of SA are far less common then the more mild, and more easily treatable version. A dog with a serious case of SA will exhibit signs well-before you leave. Triggers such as picking up your keys, putting on your shoes, grabbing your purse, or putting on your jacket may send your dog into a tizzy of different behaviors.

The dog's stress level will elevate as you prepare to leave, and you may see things like 

▪ excessive panting

▪ drooling

▪ vomiting

▪ diarrhea

▪ trembling

▪ whining/barking/howling

▪ self-mutilation (pulling out, or biting of fur, tail, legs, etc) 

▪ depression

In mild SA you may not notice any symptoms until you've returned to a house full of destroyed furniture, missing chunks of carpet, beaver-toothed marks in your walls, etc. Be aware that some of the aforementioned behaviors can simply be boredom, and in that case, your dog may just need more to do in your absence. Destructive behavior can also be attributed to younger dogs' need to play, and with no one around to tell your dog not to do something, they may get carried away and you are now left to replace whatever they've chewed.

Should your dog be exhibiting aggressive, mouthy, or pushy behaviors upon your arrival, contact a professional to evaluate what might be motivating these moments. Dogs with insecurities about their role in your pack unit will sometimes act out of frustrations. Other times, we may be dealing with a simple case of a rather nice dog that is completely Out of Control. A canine without manners, especially a large one, can be a handful just being themselves.

Mild SA symptoms include (but are not limited to)
▪ barking/whining/howling
▪ 'accidents' when left alone for only short periods of time (pertains to dogs already house-trained)
▪ destructive behavior such as carpet digging, door scratching, window ledge eating, mini-blind wrecking, couch cushion shredding, trash strewing...you get the idea.

Most of the time, these are trainable, conditionable, and sometimes medically treated symptoms.

First, and most importantly, get your dog checked out by a Veterinarian. In extreme cases of SA, your dog may truly benefit from taking a calming medication such as Reconcile, or Prozac. Do NOT give your dog your own medication; you could kill him/her. Only give what is prescribed by your vet, and known to be safe for such purpose. But be aware, medication comes with a risk of side effects, so be sure that you are comfortable with the medication prescribed as well.

There are also a number of Natural and Homeopathic remedies that can help relieve some of the stress your dog feels when you are away. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets, is a homeopathic blend of five flower oils that have been shown to reduce stress levels in some animals (and people).

The Thunder Shirt has also been a recent addition to the pet anxiety market. It has had remarkable effects on some dogs, and none on others; try it on yours and see.
Pheromone collars are also a good addition to a stress relieving program. They are specifically formulated to emit (synthetic) calming pheromone, much like the calming scents/pheromones that a mother dog emits when nursing her puppies.

Anxietrax is an FDA approved blend of floral and other plant extracts known to relieve and calm animals, it incorporates the uses of Aspen, Chamomile and others.

Next, get a good Behavior Modification Plan in place.
▪ This starts with Exercise
I can't say enough how important it is to meet the exercise requirements of your canine compadre. A tired dog is going to be naturally more calm and well-behaved, and less likely to "freak out" when you leave.

▪ Basic Obedience Training
Getting your dog under control when you are around will help create boundaries in your home, and also strengthen the trust your dog already has in you. Trust and respect are completely different than needing to be with you all the time. We can love and trust our friends and family, but we don't need to be near them every moment of the day; teach your dog the same.

▪ Appealing, Entertaining Toys
Providing your dog with things to do while you are away is very important. A peanut butter (or other flavor) filled Kong, a special filled bone, or a 'busy toy' designed to take a long time to get treats out of (Kong Wobbler, or a Treat Puzzle) can help occupy your dog. If you have a dog with Mild SA, you can sometimes hide treats all over the house, giving her something to do in your absence. *note: Don't hide them too well, or you'll increase the digging at carpet or couches.

▪ Music
Playing soft, soothing music (think 'Chopin') when you are away can help. Some dogs enjoy the sound of the TV. at lower volume to keep them company. There are also a number of Dog DVD's out there. Make sure this is not "the album I play while I am gone," if your dog associates that particular song with you leaving, you're back at square one. Rather, play the music while you are home every so often too. Do not play it at a loud volume, just loud enough to be covering the outside sounds a bit.

▪ Doggy Day Care or Friends
If you are concerned about your dog being lonely, and they get along well with other dogs, you can avoid leaving them home alone for long periods by signing them up for Day Care. Or if you have a friend who wouldn't mind your dog hanging out with their dogs, that can work too.

▪ A secure, safe Crate or Dog Pen
The most certain way to avoid destruction is to confine the dog. Placing them in a crate, with a comfortable blanket or bed (the bed may get destroyed) can help calm a dog. You must spend time crate-training before you do this, and you must also be sure to put the dog in the crate when you are home sometimes too. Again, we don't want to create a 'this is only done when I'm going to leave you' scenario.
If you are using a pen, be sure the dog cannot escape from said area, and there is nothing the dog could hurt himself on, should he try to break out.
Provide an entertaining toy for your dog while they are in the crate.

Teaching your dog to not need you so much

Write a list of 'triggers' (keys, shoes, jacket, etc), then do them and go Nowhere.
Say picking up your keys sets your dog into a drooling, whining fit, and now he's following you like his nose has glue on it and is stuck to you. Pick up your keys. Carry them around the house, doing whatever it is that you do in the house, and say nothing to the dog. When he has brought his level of emotional intensity down, then just put the keys back where they belong, and go about your business. Repeat until you are not getting the intense reaction from your dog when the keys are picked up.

Trying to soothe your dog when he is in that state of mind only serves to enforce that he is right to be so nervous. Instead, pet him and talk to him only when he is calm.

Keep your comings and goings to a boring level
Most of us make the huge mistake of greeting the dog excitedly when we come home.

Stop that. When you arrive, ignore the dog for just a few minutes. Tour the house quietly, looking for damage/destruction, and just to reaffirm that you will not acknowledge the dog until he is calm. If you live with other people, greet them first.

If your dog is crated, do not go straight to the crate and let them out. Tour the house, hang up your coat, whatever, just do not let that dog out right away. Let them bring their level down first. Yes, I know the dog is barking in excitement to see you, but don't even look at the dog at that point. When the dog is quiet, then let them out and take them outdoors for a potty break.

When you leave, just leave. Gather your stuff, and leave. Do not fall into the "ohhh be a good doggy while I'm away" trap. You are broadcasting loud and clear to the dog that you too are nervous about leaving him alone. If using a crate, put the dog into the crate a few minutes before you actually leave, and give the dog a reward for being in there.

Ignore the Dog When You Find a Mess Upon Returning Home
Our dogs live for our attention. When we don't give it, they try very hard to get it back.

When you spend that extra time upon arrival touring the house, and you find a mess, continue to ignore your dog until that mess is completely cleaned up. They pick up on the message that destroying things does not work to get our attention, and this can help them stop destroying things altogether (works in mild SA only).

If you've been gone for a while, and your dog needs to go outdoors to eliminate, take him out, and then when you have let him back inside, do the ignoring and the cleaning. As soon as the mess is cleaned, then you can act like you see the dog again, "oh my goodness, I have a dog?!? Wow, nice dog you are!"

Begin by giving your dog a nice long walk, or other form of tiring exercise.

Show your dog it is o.k. to be in another room without you.
Give him a busy toy, then walk out of the room. Walk back in quickly (if he's extremely

hooked on you) and say nothing. You can work up to the time he is in the other room without you being longer, and then teach the same thing for being outdoors (if you have a fenced in yard).

Slowly graduate to leaving him alone in the house when you go outdoors. Start with only a few seconds and build the time you leave him inside without you.
Step outside your door:

▪ With, and without all the things on his 'trigger list'

▪ Slowly. Do not expect your dog to immediately be ok for an hour. Begin with a few seconds, move to 10 seconds, 30, a minute, two minutes, seven minutes, etc.

▪ Graduate to starting the car, turning off the car and coming back inside. Again, remember no fanfare, no excited greetings.

▪ Move on to pulling out of the driveway, and returning. Enlist a friend to help with this:

▪ You leave, get into your car, which your friend drives. Have friend drive just out of sight of any windows your dog can see out of.

▪ You get out, and walk back to the house. Thus helping desensitize dog to car as trigger.

▪ Begin building the amount of time you are gone.

Do Not:
▪ Do Not Punish for destruction.

This only breeds more destruction. Just like the kid who busts out the headlight on Dad's car to get Dad to notice him, your dog is just trying to get you to notice. You give attention, even negatively, your dog still gets what he wants: Attention.

▪ Do Not Acknowledge Excessive Greetings
Whining and jumping all over you when you arrive, is not only inappropriate, but it

can undermine your efforts to soothe him for being alone. Tour the house for messes before you say 'hi' to the dog.

▪ Don’t Play Aggressive Music when you are gone. Heavy metal was not designed to soothe. It will not help to calm most dogs. However, if you and your dogs are always listening to metal, this is normal for them. Carry on.

▪ Unless it is a dangerous situation, Do Not Give Your Dog Attention Until a Mess is Cleaned Up

▪ Do Not Go Too Fast
If you are leaving your dog for ten minutes, and he does fine, but you leave for

three hours and he destroys everything, you are moving too fast for him. Go back to ten minutes and try for fifteen.

▪ Don’t Hesitate to Investigate Medical Reasons
A dog who normally never displays SA but suddenly begins to, may be unhealthy.

Get them checked out by a licensed Vet. Sometimes there is an upset or difference in a dog's routine that can start SA, but get them checked to rule out physical discomfort, or illness.

▪ Do Not Lose Hope
This can be a very frustrating, expensive problem to fix. It does not happen

overnight. Small successes add up to huge progress, so hang in there, you'll get through it.

Do:
▪ Feed Quality Nutrition

A number of dog food additives and chemicals have been known to contribute to hyperactivity and elevated levels of stress. Artificial colorants and food dyes can lead to anxiousness, an inability to focus, allergies, and many other diseases or imbalances in the system.

▪ Exercise Your Dog
A happy, physically fit, tired dog is less likely to feel stressed.

▪ Teach Your Dog Obedience ▪ Socialize Your Dog

If you are the only people in his life, he's really going to stress when those people aren't close. Being properly socialized creates a more balanced personality in your dog, and therefore a lower level of stresses that can contribute to SA.

▪ Give Yourself a Break
Dogs are some of the most forgiving and easily reroutable creatures, behaviorally speaking. So even if you feel like you've been doing it all wrong, or that your dog is beyond hope, he's not. There is hope. There is help. With patience and determination, and the right kind of work, your dog can overcome most cases of Separation Anxiety.

Disaster Preparedness: Are your pets ready?

 As disaster season barrels down upon us, are you and your pets prepared? 

 

I tend to err on the side of "overly cautious" and "way too prepared," as both our dogs are seniors; they take medications, and one of them is on prescription food.  These are things I cannot just pop in to a grocery, or convenience store to grab....assuming there are even stores available to you at the time.  While most scenarios will have options after a few days, it is a good idea to plan for a Week (7days) worth of supplies for each of your pets.

If you are a Feline family, take the time to adjust your kitties to riding in a kennel.  Cats can be more easily spooked by unfamiliar smells, places, noises, etc. and having your cat in a kennel can minimize escape risk.  Make sure your contact information is Securely, and Clearly marked on the outside of the kennel; with a description of the pet inside.  Your kitty should also be wearing a breakaway collar with your information on a tag.  Taking some extra time to train your kitty to be comfortable in a harness and leash, will give you another layer of safety, should you need to get kitty out of the kennel for any reason.

Canines can also be kenneled for safety, especially if they are on the smaller side.  Again, clearly mark your information on the outside of the kennel, and make sure your pup is wearing a collar or harness they cannot escape from.  Be sure the information on the ID tag is up to date.

Speaking of ID:  Microchip your pets.  Make sure the information is Up to Date.  In the event that your pet becomes separated from you, this might be their ticket home.  More than 50 percent of lost pets in 2023 were reunited with their families because of their microchips.

The following list is what we keep ready to rock during fire season.  Obviously, your Go-Bag items may differ a bit.  Depending on your region, and climate, your Pet-Go Bag may be Tornado, or Flood ready.  In any disaster scenario, having a Ready Bag is a Must.

Being Prepared means learning new things.  Take a Pet First Aid class.  In the short term, if you cannot reach veterinary services, or something happens that requires minor intervention, it can literally save your pets life for you to have basic First Aid and over-the-counter medication knowledge.  Note: I am not advocating Home Treatments as a go-to; this is 100% in a scenario where you cannot get to a vet in a timely fashion.  

Go-Bag Checklist

☐ 7 days Food--Don't forget to refresh the food stock about every 4-6 wks.  The oils and preservatives (yes, even in 'all natural' foods) can become stale, and sometimes even rancid, leading to upset tummies.  If your pet eats canned foods; don't forget to pack a lid/sealable container for any opened cans. Check expiration dates on your cans.

☐ Fresh Water--If you are using a re-usable bottle, wash and refresh this at the same time you rotate the food.  If using factory sealed bottles, the bottle should be good for at least 6 months before a 'swap' to a fresh bottle is recommended.

☐ 7 days medications--If your pet is on a controlled substance, talk to your vet about extending the quantity if possible, to cover the additional week's supply.  In some cases, it may be helpful to have a written prescription for the week, so you can potentially fill it in another town, should disaster make it impossible to get to your vet before the meds run out.

☐ Vaccination Records and Medical History

☐ List of Care Requirements, medication dosing, diet, behavioral information, etc.--In short, if you become incapacitated, and a Humane Society volunteer suddenly finds themselves with your pet in their care, do they have the information to provide your pet with the medications or special needs they may have?  

Our little notebook is an Owner's Manual.

Basically, any Human that has that notebook of ours, would have all the necessary information for our pets to remain Healthy in our absence.  Not a fun thought, but one you should have in mind when planning for disaster.  

☐ List of veterinary services, emergency service locations outside your immediate area.  Knowing where to go, after you get out of the disaster zone is vital.  If you live where poisonous snakes reside, call the veterinary practices and make sure you know Who Has Anti-Venom on site--Not all vet clinics can provide this medication/don't have it.  Wasting time driving to a clinic without it, may mean the difference between Life and Death for your pet.

☐ Extra Leash and collar/harness--Let's say you get the order to Evacuate, NOW.  In the haste to GTFO, it might save you valuable minutes if you only have to grab the animal and stick them in a kennel, grab the Go-Bag and leave.  Knowing everything you need is In The Bag. 

☐ Travel Bowls for food and water

☐ Tissues or Paper Towels

☐ Pet Waste Bags--If you are traveling with a kitty, make sure you pack a disposable litter pan and scooper too.  In a pinch, you can use dirt as cat litter, should litter either not be available, or you find that packing cat litter takes up too much space.  Arm n' Hammer makes a great disposable litter pan, that comes with pellet litter already in it.

☐ Muzzles.  Did you know that when Katrina hit, many pets were left behind because the evacuation checkpoints would not allow animals without "screen mesh" muzzles to cross?  Take time to do Positive muzzle training well before you may actually need to use it in a disaster scenario; no need to add more stress to an already stressful pet.  

Not to mention, if your pet becomes injured, they may try to bite because they are in pain, or very frightened.  Being comfortable in a muzzle should be part of your dogs regular life.

☐ Pet-Safe Baby Wipes

☐ Any Daily needs--One of our dogs is prone to fungal infections of the skin, so he gets daily belly-cleansing with KetoHex wipes; our other one won't take medication without peanut butter...these are 'daily need' items

☐ Flea & Tick Prevention--Who knows how long you may be away from home, and if their monthly dosing schedule falls on a day you were being evacuated, this ensures no gap in coverage.

☐ Heartworm Prevention--packing a dose just in case....

☐ First Aid Kit:

        ☐K9 Medic, by Eric "Odie" Roth--This is an invaluable resource for most dog emergencies.

This Book is worth its weight in Gold.  
It will help you decide what should belong in your own First Aid Kit,
and explain what to do with a lot of the items on our list here.

        ☐ Benadryl 25 mg pink tablets (canine dose = 1 mg per lb. of dog). DO Not dose unless you are certain this will not interact with other medications

        ☐ Pet Safe Anti-Diarrheal medication

        ☐ Anti-Emetic (nausea) medication--Check with your vet for best recommendations. We use an over-the-counter med. for our Go-Bag, but it is Strictly for emergent situations. Do Not Use Human Medications, unless your Veterinarian says OK.

        ☐ Thermometer for rectal temp. check

        ☐ KY Jelly for rectal temp. check

        ☐ Rolled Gauze

        ☐ Vet Wrap/Self Adhering bandage wrap--swap this out every few months, as the adhesion can become sticky to itself, making this unusable

        ☐ Cotton Balls or Cotton Rounds

        ☐ Nail Trimmer

        ☐ Quick-Stop Gel or Styptic Powder 

        ☐ Chlorhexadine antiseptic --Find this at most feed/equine supply stores, or online.  

        ☐ Peroxide 3% Solution

        ☐ Oral Syringes 20 ml, marked with your dog's peroxide dose

        ☐ Saline Solution

        ☐ Disposable Medical Skin Staple Gun

        ☐ Tick Twister

        ☐ Blunt nose Scissors

        ☐ Tweezers

Remember to check expiration dates on all medical supplies; even Peroxide has an expiration date.  Pack all of this in organized fashion, so it is easy to reach in a 'gotta have it' situation.  Your list may not match ours, but ours may be a good place to start. 

How to Introduce Kitty without Chaos

Dogs and Cats.  They don't always get along. But when they do, it can be a bond that most best friends would be jealous of.  But how do we go about introducing them to each other, without scaring the daylights out of either party?  

Create Dog-Free Zones that the Cat can access at all times.

This is especially important if the cat has never been around a dog.  Dogs with a high pre-drive WILL chase an animal that runs; making sure the cat has a space where dog is not allowed, helps give them a safe place to run to--however, we are also teaching the cat not to run, but to be calm around the dog.  And vise versa.

Building Cat Shelves that are too high for the dog, but the cat can easily access can help kitty feel safer than on the floor.  This also gives you some great options as to where you keep the cat food--Dogs love it, but it is bad for them.  Cat food contains too much Taurine; Good for Cats, but can cause ocular blindness in Dogs.

It is not fair to expect them to be immediate friends.  If at all possible, take your Dog over to a house with cats, BEFORE you bring one home. Find a friend with cats who trust you not to drop your Dog's leash, and will allow your dog to sniff around the place.  Bring lots of treats, and reward dog for acting appropriately.  This also gives you a chance to see if having a kitty in their life is even a possibility.

Keep the pets separate at first.

Give kitty their own room.  Keeping kitty in a private space, (where litter box, food and water are available) for a few weeks gives the pup a chance to get used to the smells, and sounds of the new pet, without putting kitty in danger.  This also helps cats to relax in to their new surroundings; a stressed cat will sometimes urinate inappropriately, or refuse to eat.

Rotate who gets to explore the house.

After a few weeks, begin to allow kitty time to explore their new digs, while the dog is behind closed door, and in another room.  Remember to give the dog something to do during this time; don't want them to think they are "in trouble" and cause a bigger issue.  This gets everyone's smells intermingling; creating a "shared space" before they actually physically share space.

Teach Basic Commands.

If your pup is not already familiar with listening when you speak, use the time that kitty is installed in their own room, to start teaching important cues.

"Come," "Leave It," "No," and "Stay," are vital to giving kitty a sense of security.  If your pup cannot do these things fairly reliably on leash, contact a professional, get into a class, or at the very least, order a copy of '101 Dog Tricks' by Kyra Sundance.

Convincing your dog that good things (namely Chicken, Cheese, Turkey Bacon, fun games/toys, etc) happen while this new smell --kitty-- is in their house, the more positively your dog will view this animal.

Us humans make The Biggest mistake when we see our pups getting tense around another animal.  Be it another dog, a small human, or a cat:  Our tendencies to say "Be Nice" in the most ominous tone possible, translates to your dog as emotional nervousness, and worry about Something.  When we do this in front of the cat, (who the dog is already not sure of) and they hear us talking like that, they can sometimes interpret this as a need for them to 'control the situation.'  This can result in your dog trying to 'take care of the interloper (kitty)' in ways we really don't want.

Keep it upbeat, but not crazy.  Be calm and happy in your voice, if you can, as they are learning to be friends. 

Use Your Leash!  

I cannot stress this enough.  Just as I have mentioned a dog should never approach another dog on a tight, tense leash, your dog should also never pull towards a cat.  Keeping a leash on the dog when you graduate to letting them see each other, gives you a safety net to pull that dog out of there, should they lose their mind and decide to chase or attack this small animal.  

Yes, the same advise goes for other small animals--Chickens, rabbits, other farm livestock...Following a controlled, positive approach can go a long way towards helping your dog be kind to little things.  Granted, some dogs are living with SUCH a large prey-drive, that they may not be suited to living that kind of life, and may never be trustworthy around such things.  In other cases, your dog may actually need a different approach to this, but if that is the case, I strongly recommend seeking the help of a trained professional Teacher.

When you have moved to allowing them to see each other, past just sniffing where the other one has been, set up a Baby-Gate or other physical barrier that the cat cannot just walk through (you may need to add screen, or modify a typical gate for this).  Some folks have opted to replace or add a real screen door to kitty's room.  This can work wonderfully, but be sure you have installed the metal 'scratch' blocker on the bottom portion, or you may have a dog that discovers he can just crash through it.

Treat it as a normal day in the life, use your treats, and Every time the cat pokes his head out of that room where the dog can see it, GET HAPPY.  "OH look, there's our kitty! Here Rufus! Snack time for you! Can you Sit?  Good Dog!  How about Down...Good! Rufus, Come..." at this point, you are moving away from the 'I can see the cat' zone, and someone else is putting the cat back in the room.  

If you are by yourself doing this, lead Rufus outdoors or into another room, or into his kennel, so you can safely put the cat away again.

Use "NO" and body block if your dog does not respond when the cat is within sight.  This means your dog was not ready for the sight of the animal yet; go back to practice...get those cues for "Leave It" working for you and your dog.  

Ideally, your dog should be able to look at the kitty, hear you say something like "Good boy, Rufus, see the kitty?  Now, Rufus, Leave It" and Rufus should break the stare on the cat, and look to you for a reward.  If he cannot, use your body as a block--Make sure you face Rufus when you do this, otherwise, he will get the idea that you are helping him bother the cat.

Repeat sessions daily, if possible.

Small, repeated sessions of rewarding dog for not acting like a maniac, but rather paying attention to you, will net you a dog who can relax about the little animal you brought into their life.

Only when you feel your dog is totally relaxed around the cat, and the cat is showing Zero signs of tension in the pups presence (kitties like treats too) should you trust them to be toolin' around the house without a leash on the dog.

Use the baby-gate for a while.  Let the dog loose on the other side of the gate, and practice calling him/her away from the cat.  Change sides of the gate so the dog can see that the cat is allowed in their space, and it is up to You who gets to go where...

Proceed with caution.  If your dog seems to get Too elevated when the cat is present, talk to your vet about some short-term anxiety control medication (think daily Zoloft for dogs; not episodic tranquilization) and resolve yourself to the idea that it may be months, and sometimes years before your pup can live with a small animal like a feline.  If this is the case, it may be in both animal's best interest to consider rehoming one of them.  Living in danger, or constant anxiety or fear, is not ok.

Some dogs are just no OK with cats.  Period.  

Some cats are not OK with dogs.  That's OK too.  If this scenario is flipped, and it is the cat who is struggling with the dog, a lot of the same strategies can be used.

1. Use treats when the dog is around.  

2. Give safe places to escape.  

3. A handy water bottle to deter a kitty on the attack might be helpful.  Please note, if your dog is a chaser, this may not be the smartest move....

If you have a super-mellow dog, and the cat is just bent on attacking it, put a leash on the cat.  You may have to spend some time (weeks/months) getting the cat used to wearing a harness and lead, but this will allow you to control how things go.

4. Doing the smell-swap of putting the dog away and allowing the cat to get used to how kitty's environment smells with dog in it.

5. Make sure cat knows they have space the dog is not allowed.

6. Do not allow the cat to torment your pup while he/she is in the crate.  Felines are creative, observant creatures--I've seen instances where the animosity between dog and can was not improving, because the cat would taunt the pup.  Staying out of his reach when the dog was out of the crate, then kitty would sit and stare at the dog whenever he was in the crate.  Further, the cat could reach in to the crate to "bop" the pup, but the pup could not reach him...Recipe for disaster.  Lock the cat up if this is your kind of cat.  Or use a squirt bottle on kitty to teach him/her to stay away from dog while it is in the crate.

Creating a peaceful, strong friendship between your dog and your kitty doesn't take too much work. But in the end, You are the Leader and the Ultimate Resource Provider for both of them...leverage your Happy and your ability to give Snacks, to show them they actually want to be friends.