Tools: The "Dominant Dog" Collar

Before I even get to explaining what this collar is, what it's primary function is supposed to be, or how to use it, I will preface this with a warning:

Do Not attempt to use this collar as a 'yank n' crank' choke collar.
Do Not Use This Collar unless you are prepared to also implement a strict pack structure that communicates clearly to your dog that you are the leader of said pack.
DO NOT tie your dog out with this collar.

There are many reasons I like these 'dominant dog' collars.  They stay put.  They are designed to sit high and snug on the neck of the dog, just behind the ears.  They are a sound alternative for animals who are living with so much aggression that the application of a prong would send them into the point-of-no-return, as they do not use a pain-based correction.  They are great for thick-headed animals who seem to lose the ability to hear, or smell anything because they are living at such a high-level of stimulation.

You can get the same results without this collar, but you are looking at a long process where you, the Human, must be responsible for everything that happens within your dog's environment.  i.e. a Positive Reinforcement based approach.  If you wanted, you could use this as your emergency back up plan, in case you and your bag of treats are caught in a situation you weren't prepared for, and had no choice but to haul that dog out of it....But please, please, use this collar only if you are working with, or at least talking to a good Teacher.

So, what exactly IS a dominant dog collar?
Well, simply put, it is a device, a tool, meant to take away your dogs ability to get air.  That's right.  It is designed to choke him. (I'm not one to mince words)  And it is designed to choke him quickly; effectively stopping whatever he is attempting to do.

It is not, as I mentioned, a yank n' crank choke collar.  Doing so may injure your dog.

I am not a fan of chain chokes.  They pinch ears, grab skin, and the amount of force and speed necessary to make them effective is something that most of us common dog owners cannot attain.  Chains do not stay where they are most effective on the neck either; you must buy them large enough to fit over the dogs' skull, and therefore, unless the dog is being kept at your side with you holding most of the slack out of the lead, they will slip too low on the neck.  That is why you see so many dogs hauling themselves down the street with that lovely "hhhaaaaghhh hhhaaaghhh" noise as they try to breathe through the strangulation their Humans are allowing to happen.

Chain chokes have also been responsible for causing tracheal scaring.  The inside of your dogs' throat gets damaged, and the resulting scar tissue build up can cause deep, sad sounding coughing when your dog gets excited, or runs too much.  My own dog, Rockey suffers from this.  It isn't all the time, but whomever was responsible for him (ha, responsible!) before he found his way to me, was cruel to him with a chain collar. Or at least, that's the theory my veterinarian has presented.

This is not a collar that is meant for your everyday wanderings through your neighborhood, as your dog enjoys a good sniffing of the grass, or pees on every corner.  No.  This is a Tool meant for serious focus and training of a canine that has a serious lack of said focus.  They are commonly applied to dogs with human aggressive tendencies; dogs who could care less that you are throwing salmon at them, or dogs in the care of Humans who do not have the patience to work on a Positive Approach , or are in need of an Emergency Intervention to save them from being put down, or causing more injury to themselves or others.

They are also a good alternative for areas in which an electronic collar is not allowed.  But you will have to wrap your head around the idea that your dog will never be off a leash.  Yes, I am talking to you; those Humans who have dogs who shouldn't be allowed to be more then 4 feet away when off your property, but you still insist that you want him to be in a position of being trusted off lead "eventually."

The Dominant Dog collar can be a good way to wean a dog from a prong to a slip, if done correctly, and for the right dog.  There are some dogs out there who make a better transition from prong to head halter, or prong to martingale; check with your Teacher to be sure you are choosing the right Tool for your dog.  If you are a go-it-alone kind of Guardian...Please be careful with this one.  Do your research.

So you've decided this is the Tool you want to use.  Ok.  Did you know it does the same thing as this when fit properly?

That's right.  The slip n' go leash, when fit correctly, offers the same correction as the dominant dog collar.  Most of the people you see using these leads do not have them cinched in the correct fashion, so they ride too low on the dog's neck.  And for some dogs, this is fine.  Those dogs hopefully are not acting in a way that requires that level of correction.  If your dog has delightful leash manners, and you are looking for an easy leash/collar combo, these are great.

But for those dogs that need correcting, need to walk in a controlled Heel due to an inability to function well when away from your side, these can be amazing, soft tools.  If you are using this, and all you hear is labored breathing, YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG.  The idea, with both the slip and go with a good fit, and the dominant dog collar (again, with proper fit) is that any time your dog is beginning to fall into a certain pattern of undesirable behavior, you lift up on the leash.  If you are working with an extremely forward personality, you may find yourself lifting the front paws off the ground a bit, but remember, this is not a wrestling match.  

If you cannot lift up on the leash because your dog is ahead of you when they present the undesired behaviors, You Are Using It Incorrectly.  Your dog should be walking at your side.

Using a dominant dog collar on a dog with a softer personality, normally only requires a bit of lift to make your point.  If your dog is so forward that he has bitten you for attempting to correct him, please contact a good professional and get help to assist you and your dog.  

When applying this collar to a dog who is bullheaded, or stubborn (or in some cases, unaltered, mature and looking for a mate) this may be the difference between being yanked off your feet, and a dog who respects your walking space.  This collar, coupled with a tab leash (a short length of leash) allowed to hang from it, can give you an easier way to catch hold of a dog and calm him from excited or out of control behavior when not attached to you.

You know those moments you've seen on Cesar Millan, where he slips that little cord around the dogs' neck and immediately the dog is settled and no longer attempting certain things?  Magic right?  A lot of it is that leash being applied in the proper place behind the ears and under the jaw.

You know those dogs in the show ring?  The ones prancing so high on their toes and showing off their gait?  Slip lead in the right place.  Those handlers have learned how to "work" their dogs in the proper fashion.  (I personally love it when I see a handler who knows his dog is so good, he lets him have a loose lead and flies around the ring with him, so he doesn't inhibit his motion...beautiful!)

Proper fit on the Dominant Dog collar is the only way to ensure that it will work as you intend it to.  If your dog has a neck that measures 15.5 inches just below his jaw and wrapping around behind his ears, then that is the length of collar you need.  If they don't have a 15.5 inch collar at the store, or when you order it, find someone who can alter it for you.  When they make these, they are accounting for less then a quarter inch larger then you ask for, and it is in the hardware.  These must fit where they belong.

This dog is wearing both a prong collar and a dominant dog collar, but he also has a tab leash on.  This is a photograph of a working Schutzhund dog.  I have chosen it because it illustrates proper placement and fit of the dominant dog collar, and shows you what a tab leash is.  Applying both the prong and the DD collar is not advised, without the express instruction of a professional who knows what they are doing.  If your dog is suffering from aggression towards other dogs, you can in fact, make it much, much worse, if you are applying a prong collar to the wrong personality.  Again I warn you, talk to a good Teacher before attempting to "fix" a severe behavioral issue by yourself.

Speaking of dogs, I must go walk mine.....

I swear....

There are many reasons I try to avoid the dog park when it's busy.

Rockey and Gerodi

There are people I know who avoid it altogether for one reason or another; some of them are responsible pitbull guardians, and prefer to keep their wonderful dogs away from any and all potential risk zones (I applaud this), some stay away because they have dogs who cannot handle being off lead, and some don't go because of the idiots who do attend.....

....This goes out to those idiots.

I usually go super early in the morning.  My dog park is gorgeous!  It's 102 acres of running.  It has a creek for playing in, or swimming; the grass is never mowed, so my guys can leap and wrestle and play hide and seek, and it is generally awesome.

The early morning crowd is normally a few older gentleman and their hunting dogs.  Dogs with manners who prefer to point at birds, or launch into the waterhole after a tennis ball.  The runners are out at dawn as well; the super fit who take owning a Vizla or a couple of sled dogs seriously.  They breeze on by while their dogs stop for a sniff or a fast circle tag game with mine, and then they are off.

The early morning crowd is changing.  I'm going to blame the weather (...so come on cold mornings!), it has been so warm by 8 or 9 a.m. that these well-meaning Humans are actually showing up when it is comfortable out.  Lately, I'm seeing a lot of dogs on leashes. 

This is bad.
This is really bad.

I see teenage dogs who Humans have finally gotten the all clear from their backwards veterinarians; dogs who are 6, 7 and even 8 months old, visiting the park for the first time.  These dogs are HUGE.  And they have had NO SOCIAL EXPOSURE because the vet told them to wait until they had finished all vaccinations before taking them around other dogs.  So here is a tiny woman, holding on to a tense, tight RETRACTABLE LEASH while her 90 lb Bernese Mtn Dog chokes himself out trying to reach every dog in sight.

Not a Bernese, but check out this body language!  This may be the world's friendliest pup, but this sure doesn't look like it.  Bracing to reach something creates an unnaturally "forward" stance.  This pup may be cruising for a fight.

I see a brindle boxer mix on a RETRACTABLE LEASH near the gates.  The Human has the leash locked to appx. 4 feet long, and this tense dog is not only reaching for other dogs, but she is battle-tailed stiff and nervous, and when I approach, I notice she is also wearing a shock-box.....Her Human says, "This is her first time here, we just got her yesterday."  "What's her name?" I inquire, attempting to open a conversation window.
"Uh, well, we haven't settled on one yet...we've been calling her _____(not mentioned, in case he happens to read this--not trying to offend, just educate)___________"

.............................................fantastic........................................................................................................

...you have a dog you don't know, in a situation she's obviously not comfortable in, on a device meant to enforce other training (yes, we'll talk about those more thoroughly another time) on a RETRACTABLE LEASH near the front gate.................................and she doesn't even know her name?
What the hell is wrong with you?!

I don't mean to yell, but honestly!

Can you see how another dog would read this guy as

predatory?

Ok, so here's where we get a little more informative, instead of just complaining about these Humans. When your dog meets another dog on lead, and they are pulling towards another dog, they are in a body stance that can accidentally communicate aggression to another dog approaching.  They are up on the toes, forward into the chest, ears and face are forward, and often times, they are pulling so hard the front feet come off the ground.  All of this can say "Hey, I'd like to eat your face" to another dog.  Allowing that tension on the leash creates tension in the energy of the dog, in yourself, and in the situation.  When there is tension, something can snap....in these cases, most likely those pieces of junk called Retractable Leashes....in most others, it's the dogs.  And you wind up with more scraps and fights then necessary. 

As Humans, we have a natural tendency to feel like pulling the dog back is preventing a problem, as we feel it will make it easier for us to pull the dog away should a problem arise.  But we are doing the exact opposite.  If you must allow your dog to meet other dogs on a leash, you must do your best to keep some slack on the leash.  If your dog cannot allow that, then he shouldn't be in this situation.  He is not listening nor is he focused on you at all, and you are an accident waiting to happen.  You are being amazingly irresponsible, and you are putting other dogs in danger.

When there is slack on the lead, your dog can exhibit more natural body language.  He is free to drop his head, wag his tail, fall into play invitations, move away if he's not comfortable, the whole bit.  Imagine what it would feel like if someone sent you to a restaurant for a fancy dinner.  You're all dressed up, and when you arrive at the lobby, the host makes you wear a Hannibal Lecter mask before seating you.  And you are the only person wearing it.  That's the social equivalent of making your dog be on a leash in the dog park.

Granted, there are certain situations that warrant allowing your dog to use a drag line.  But know how to use that line without creating a potentially dangerous situation before you attempt to do so.

My dogs are not allowed to interact with other dogs on leash.  They are required to ignore and walk past other dogs, or to sit and ignore other dogs when they are on lead.  Being on lead is time to pay attention to me, it is not play time.  It is not "talk smack" time, it is walking time.  I respect other people's dog-space, and I understand that some dogs who play fine off lead, may have a bit of an issue while on lead, so my dogs stay out of that area.  I would love it if more people would do the same.  It is only the polite thing to do. 

If it is your dogs first time at the park, and you are so nervous about her behavior around other dogs, that you feel a shock-box is necessary, she should not be there.  Period.  If she doesn't even know her name and you plan on shocking her for what you, who obviously doesn't know a thing about dog behavior or body language, deem as inappropriate, you are going to make a mess out of that dog.

You know what your better bet would be?
Start with a friends dog who is mellow.  Go for walks.  Lots of them.  Get your dog into a class.  Make sure your dog understands what YOU want of her before you turn her loose with a bunch of other dogs.  If you don't have access to one or two friendly dogs, call a Trainer and see if there are options for introducing your dog to a few good ones, before you try to tackle the dog park. 

And if you do finally get to the dog park:  Turn them loose.  Let your dog be a dog.  Allow proper interactions and play to happen.  Guess what Humans, Dogs bite and chase and hump and wrestle and snap and growl and get disgusting.

I suggest finding out if there is a Trainer in your area who offers Dog Park Classes.  No, I don't mean classes you take your dog to.  I mean a class on Dog Park etiquette.  How You should behave when you bring your dog to the dog park.

Some dogs are not cut out for the park.  Some dogs prefer long walks to social interaction.  That's ok.  Your dog doesn't have to go clubbing.  But if you do have a dog you want to do this with, all I'm asking is that you use more sense, and start thinking about how your dog feels.

And start thinking about how your dogs' behavior will effect other park goers.......

10 Reasons Not to Adopt a Puppy

1. They Poop and Pee Everywhere

          Puppies do not come in to the world knowing where we Humans would prefer them to eliminate.  When you bring home that adorable ball of fur at 8 weeks of age, he literally is like an infant in diapers; Not a clue.  Punishing him at this age is like slapping a baby for messing his pants.  You wouldn't do that.  Instead, take the puppy out at least every 1/2 hour at first, and reward him with good things for going in the proper place.  Get a puppy book and read up on how old he'll be before he starts to understand the concept.




2. Puppies Bite

       


 It's called curiosity, and teething.  Again, something a young puppy has no control over yet.  If you have young children, this can create a real problem.  Kids tend to jerk their hands away when the little shark is coming at them, which prompts her natural prey-chase response, which makes her jump at the hands, which makes the kids squeal (or worse, the kids start slapping her head) which excites the pup, which makes her bite harder, which......anyway, you get the point.  You may think your kids need a puppy, but I think differently.






3. They Chew:  A Lot.
       

This is really about how his mouth feels, or how much fun he's having when you weren't looking, much more then it is about spite.  I hear it all the time, from friends and from clients; "he musta been really mad 'cuz I left him"  "she just does it to spite me"  "I guess she was angry....."  Well, no, your puppy, especially a younger one, is teething (or you left your baby dog loose when you went to work...what did you think was going to happen?).  Those little milk teeth have to come out somehow, and if you were the Stupid Human who left a puppy unattended with your best pair of boots laying around, "oohhhh leather feels soooo good on my gums..."  or perhaps you have a hamper with dirty underwear at nose height?  Either way, your dog is not doing these things out of spite.

          And yes, I know, you've got all kinds of toys and bones laying around for the pup, but he still insists on eating your carpet.  Well, stop leaving him unattended and unwatched long enough for him to get into it so much that it's now a habit.  If you see something non-dog-approved in the puppies mouth, trade him for something that IS dog approved, and much better.  Socks?  Kong with a little cream cheese and peanut butter..woah, I said a LITTLE cream cheese....go easy....

          If you are unsure what qualifies as a good chew for your puppies particular age, ask somebody.  Ask your Teacher.  Ask somebody at the pet store what worked for them.  Ask your vet.

4. They Require More Trips to the Vet
          Puppies are the kamikaze equivalent to a 10 year old boy on a skateboard sometimes.  They will fling themselves into the worst situations, with big smiles on their faces.  They can swallow things that are inedible (I have a vet-tech friend who took 2 whole pairs of boxers out of a Golden Retriever), they fit into places they are not supposed to go....They get stomach upsets, and diarrhea all over your carpet, they freak you out with lethargy; they bite bees.  Y'know, KIDS.
          Oh, and if we're talking just basic wellness, they need vaccinations.

Hopefully, your breeder or shelter will have done the first set, but you are responsible for the rest.  Which they will need in a few weeks of each other.  You'll need to look at getting your dog spayed or neutered, to ensure a long, healthful life, and to make sure you aren't perpetuating the cycle of unwanted puppies.  You are also avoiding some unwanted behavioral issues, and some cancers if you choose to "fix" your pet.
          Unless you are a licensed show, or work breeder (preferably with a conscience, and not a backyard or mill) or your vet has given you a physical reason that fixing your dog is not a good plan, you have no reason what-so-ever to have an intact animal as a pet.....In my opinion.
          Your female does not need to have a litter to be more calm.
          Your male will not "pee like a girl" or lose any of his "manliness."
          Your kids do not need to experience the birthing cycle to understand the birds and bees.....

5. You're Not Quite Sure What You're Getting
          Shelters take their best guess with the breeds or potential size of a puppy.  If their mother is present, that can help, but usually they have no idea what kind of pup you are getting.  I love when I see a small dog, and they tell me "the shelter said it was Great Dane and Mastiff, but he's only 40 lbs"  or "We had no idea he'd get so big!  The shelter said he was a cattle dog mix."
         

At puppy adoption events, I cringe (as do other Humans who know Dogs) when I see parents allowing kids to choose the puppy.  This is not a toy.  This is an animal who will need you to help it learn the ropes and become a good dog.  Just because little Suzy wants the scrappy little terrier who's latched on to the other pups neck and is growling and shaking him, and snaps when you try to take him off the lifehold he's got, does not mean he's going to suit your family.  It is amazing to me that parents who call themselves responsible allow this to be the process.  That little biter goes home, is way too much for the family, but they keep him til he's a teenager, and finally return him to the shelter; where he has very little chance of finding a new place, because you dropped him off with complaints of "he chases the kids and bites their ears"  "he growls at us when we get near his food"  "he hates other dogs"  and so forth...choose wisely.

6. Puppies Chase Stuff
          Well, this doesn't need much explanation.  Dogs like to chase things, (well most of them anyway) and if you have cats or young kids around, you will be teaching the pup that chasing these things is not a cool activity.

7. You Must Watch Them at All Times: Or Else
          ...or else they chase the kids, or the cat.
....they eat stuff
.....they poop on stuff
.........they chew stuff
............they do all kinds of stuff you don't want them to do!

Be prepared to feel as though you have brought home a furry two year old who does not wear diapers.  Puppies are trouble.

8. They Consume All Your Time; if you're doing it right.
          If you really want a well-mannered adult dog from this crazy little being you've chosen to bring into your lives, you are going to have to dedicate some time to it.  I'm not talking scheduling an hour a day to "train" the dog.  I am talking Lifestyle Change.  Think about how much a families' life changes when a newborn baby is brought into it.  That is how you should be viewing bringing up a new pup.

NO, you can't go out and party tonight, your puppy needs you.  No, you don't have time to go golfing all day, your puppy needs you.  Sorry, you had to miss things, but your puppy needs to get out of the crate and go for a walk.  Just because you have a box to put the dog in, does not mean you can just get a dog and leave it in the box.  This is a living creature!  She has needs!  If you want something you can adore and forget about while you run all over town, get one of those robot dogs.  Take the batteries out when you're through playing with it.

9. Someone Else Will Most Likely Adopt That Puppy

         Puppies are cute.  Passing over that puppy at the shelter, or adoption event is something I'm ok with doing.  I know people fall for puppies.  And there are a lot of great homes out there, just waiting to commit to raising that little guy.  If you are not prepared, I mean fully prepared to at least try to do this right, say no.





10. Someone Else Will Most Likely Not Adopt The Older Dog Sitting Next to The Puppy

          If adopting a canine is what you really want to do, but aren't prepared for the level of crazy a puppy can bring, please consider the older dogs that are there.  There are literally thousands of dogs over the age of four, waiting for homes that may never come.
          I just recently talked with some Humans who have asked for help with their younger adoption, but have nothing but raves about their older one.  "He's perfect.  And he came that way," is how they describe him.  He was a shelter save.  Another woman only adopts if the dog is over the age of 9.  How cool is that?  Getting an older dog may mean you are getting something who already knows where to eliminate.
They may know tricks.  They might even be obedience trained already....you never know til you start to interview them.
          Yes, you do run the risk of taking home a dog who is suffering from a behavioral issue, but all in all, I'd rather work with a barker, or a reactive dog, then keep up with a puppy any day.  Most shelters are kind of familiar with the dogs in there, and some even have programs that allow you to do Foster to Adopt; which means you can bring the dog home and see if it fits in.  If you have other dogs, please bring them to the shelter and go for a walk or do a meet and greet there, rather then try it on the dogs' home turf.  IF that is unavailable, make certain you have a friend help you introduce them, and DO NOT do it at your dogs' house.  Go walking.  
Bonus points if you've chosen a black dog.

We have to be more honest, if we're ever going to save this dog.....

I had intentions of taking my boys for a nice long walk at this beautiful time in the morning; right after I checked in on FB (aren't we all guilty of this).  I read an interesting article: "The State of the American Dog: Heartbreaking American Pit Bull Statistics Everyone Needs to Know" (you can find it here http://www.esquire.com/features/american-dog-0814?src=soc_fcbks if you are interested...you'll have to close a couple pop-up ads to get to it, but worth a scan).

While yes, it is heartbreaking what is happening to a Dog in the eyes of Humans Who Have Created This Issue, the article mentions something that I, as a 'helper' of many different kinds of families has found to be a growing problem.

In the article, she talks with a shelter worker who explains that a dog who is a pit bull mix, will be labeled as what it is mixed with, because it gives the dog a better chance at finding a home.  Like say, a pit bull/Weimaraner  mix is looking for a home (direct example from the article), the shelter will say it is a Weim mix, and it goes home.  The lady who adopted this dog took it to her vet, and her vet says "nope, it's a pit bull" and the dog is returned to the shelter.

As this is sad, that the lady has this prejudice towards a type of dog due to the overwhelming media hype, the demonizing of this particular style of dog, and perhaps even personal experience or how she was raised, or whatever, it still does not excuse, in my opinion, the omission of this important piece of information on the shelters behalf.

I used to think it was a wonderful thing.  Shelters "Saving" a dogs' life, who otherwise may have been euthanized for being a 'pit bull.'  Animal facilities in areas where a breed ban is in effect, finding creative names for pit mixes, in the hopes someone may adopt them:
Mastiff mix
Lab/boxer mix
Weim mix
Cattle Dog mix
Plott Hound mix
Etc.....I now see this is becoming a huge problem.  Humans who are not at all equipped or ready to bring a terrier into their lives, are adopting these dogs.  When terrier traits arise, such as chasing, grabbing, shaking, checking out into prey-drive land; these well-meaning humans are not prepared.  They go out and get a book on Labs, I mean, after all, the shelter said they had a Lab, right?  Everything in the book tells them to handle this a certain way, so they try.

Now, I'm not trying to say that breed has everything to do with character.  But it IS a factor.  And some people, whether it's prejudice or just innocent ignorance, are not ready for a terrier.  The pit bull type dog is a terrier....my favorite terrier.  But they aren't for everyone.
Just like owning a Coonhound is not for everyone.
Or a Malamute.

I am not saying the pit bull type dog cannot be a wonder family member; they can, and do.  They are intensely loyal and can be ridiculously tolerant and patient.  They are couch hogs.  They can hike with you all day, or lay around and do nothing quite well (depending on the particular personality).  They were, and are, the American Breed.

Stubby (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20bwOpj8DSc) was a hero.

They make fantastic service animals, as they seem to have an uncanny knack for knowing when we need them emotionally.

They excel in obedience (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RB9xlT-aqE  watch Brandee and Apollo do their stuff), and are growing as officers of the law, in some, more enlightened areas of the world.

We created this fine animal to do it all.

We wanted a dog who could handle the vermin on the ranch:  Cool.  He's got it.
We needed a dog who could move livestock, and protect us from wild animals:  Covered.
He had to be smart: Check.
He had to listen well: Ok, dad, whatever you say....*wag wag wag*
He had to be tough, but gentle enough to take care of the babies while you weren't home:  Check, check and double check.
And not to mention, he makes you a bit of coin on bull baiting....
oh, but what's this, a "gentleman's sport" beginning?
"Excuse me Sir, but I couldn't help overhear that your Sammy is the toughest dog in town.  Rumor has it he's trounced several coyotes and such...what say we see if he's tougher than my Duece?"
You see where I'm going here?

We are doing to the pit bull what we did to the African Americans (what we're still doing in some backwards places).  Hating the pit bull for being a pit bull, is racial profiling.

But we do need to be profiling to some degree.  I personally feel it is doing a disservice to these amazing dogs to place them in homes who are unprepared to handle them.  There is a shelter close to my area, that does stay away from the "p" word, when labeling the dogs available for adoption.  But here's what I see on the kennel cards:
"Terrier/Lab mix"
"Cattle dog/Terrier mix"
"Hound/Terrier mix"

Giving people a bit more of a 'heads up' about the Terrier part, is the honest and responsible thing to do.  Until the tides change, and they are changing,( did you know John Stewart has a pit bull?  ) it is our responsibility to do our best to ensure that the public is learning that a pit bull is not a breed, but a type:  Terrier.  And terriers do things that terriers were bred for; chasing stuff and ridding your property of vermin and danger, so they can come back and lay by your fire.

Is it too much to ask? Probably.

It is such a challenge sometimes to catch and hold the attention of a young dog.  The world is an amazingly good (and bad) smelling place!  To a pup who is just coming into their role in the social scheme of things, this can be soooo distracting.  So we must be extra patient.

If your puppy is struggling with attention in a certain area, such as Sitting when people are present, then you know that is what you can take some extra time practicing.  But put some distance between you and the distracting thing.  If it is simply being outdoors that your pup can't handle, try to budget some time to hang out as the 'anchor.'  Taking your pup to a mildly distracting area, such as your front yard, and just quietly standing there holding the end of the leash until he loses interest in that circle of space, can be the difference between success and failure with obedience behaviors.

Don't expect too much from them either.  If you are aware that the sight of kids playing undoes all your hard work, go back to simply trying to play the Name Game with her for a few minutes, a bit farther away from the children playing, until your puppy is paying closer attention to you.  As she gets better at focusing on you, and ignoring the kids, you can move closer and try again.  You may only get a step closer at a time, but keeping it simple, like using Name Game, and asking for a Sit before moving away again, will ultimately net you a very reliable dog.

Allowing your pup to ignore you altogether when there are distractions is unacceptable.  Dousing his senses to a degree that you no longer matter actually teaches him to ignore you as he grows.  Setting yourself up at a distance the pup can focus in, while still slowly increasing his tolerance to distraction, is vital to your long-term success. 

It can be a hard line to walk between asking for enough to keep the pup focused on you, and knowing when to just stop for a moment to allow the pup to realize that "thing" wasn't worth trying to reach.  The more you ask for, the better your focus will be: assuming you've taken the time to teach the puppy what you want, before you try it in an area of higher distraction.  

It always cracks me up a little when I see someone with a new puppy at a busy park on a Sunday afternoon, trying to teach him to Come, or better, to Stay.  I can't help but ask if he's practiced this at home yet, and the answer is usually something like, "No, (guy with giant grin says) we just got him yesterday!"  I love the initiative to show the pup the world, but expecting a pup who is still adjusting to his new environment to listen enough to Stay put more then a millisecond, is asking too much...I think anyway.

Some puppies are so high energy, that it can help to play ball or other activity in the backyard, before you try to work in the front yard.  If a pup is too excited, they are in a reactionary state of mind, and not in the thinking one we need for training.  Every day and every minute should be a 'training session,' as in, this is just the way of life for your dog.  "you want outside?  Sit...Wait...ok!"  "you want dinner?  Down...Wait...ok!"  You cannot expect your dog to just 'become good' all the time, if you are only asking for good behavior when you decide it's "training hour."  

There is no Sometimes for a Dog.  

Sunday At the Dog Park

*ahem*

Sunday at the dog park, after 8a.m......


never again.



Thank you.

Keeping Kids and Dogs Safe: From Each Other

Before you all decide I am being self-righteous in these "rules" to follow for kid and dog safety, please know that I am well aware that there are exceptions to all of them.  There are those perfect dogs who just fawn over, tip-toe around and genuinely understand young Humans.  There actually are families out there who are teaching their children a level of respect and responsibility that is a beautiful thing to see in the presence of canine interaction.  But as general guidelines, as ways to keep bites at a minimum, and accidents to a lower frequency, the following set of "rules" are good advice.

It is not meant to be Written in Stone, but I do feel that if we, as parents and as dog owners, began to take more responsibility when sharing spaces with kids and dogs, we can help create a better generation of animal respecting kids.  Kids who will grow into kinder individuals because they are being raised to use a certain level of decorum when meeting other Humans, and Dogs.

For Owners:
1.  It is Your Responsibility to teach your dog to have some level of tolerance towards children. You may have a dog who doesn't like kids on top of his head, so stop walking him next to the playground attracting attention he doesn't appreciate....Unless you are prepared to label him and are working on the issue in a safe manner.  And by safe, I mean, if he can't handle kids, he should be wearing a comfortable basket muzzle just in case someone can't or won't respect his boundaries.

2.  Show your dog that kids aren't scary.  As much as possible, take your dog places where kids are active and making noise. If your dog has an issue, work with a professional (a good teacher) who can help you show your dog how to tolerate skateboards, bicycles, jumping, running, screaming, etc without allowing kids to "mob" your dog.

If you have a puppy, bring a toy or a stuffed Kong (so long as the dog does not have any issues with resource guarding) to occupy her mouth when you have people and kids pet her.  Tell the kids to touch her one at a time, and keep the interaction short.  Leave when the kids stop respecting what you are asking, or when your dog is too excited to sit or down politely.

3.  Do not chain your dog.
Studies show that a chained dog lacks social tolerance.  They are frustrated, and usually have a lack of human interaction.  Chained dogs are more likely to have territorial guarding issues, due to the small territory they are provided, and are more likely to bite.  A chained, unattended dog is a victim of teasing (y'know, from those kids whose parents are not teaching them to respect animals) and begins to see most approaching humans as a threat.  He is also a potential victim for other wandering dogs or wild animals, as he cannot flee or properly defend himself.

If you do not have a fence, walk your dog.  Or at the very least, be outside with him while he is tied up.  Creating an overhead trolley runner is a good alternative to the "in the ground" stake, as long as you have set it properly so the dog cannot tangle himself.

If finances are standing in the way of your fence, contact your local city shelter and rescue organizations and find out if your community has fence-building programs; such as the Coalition to Unchain Dogs.

4. At the park, dog park or other public place, do not allow your dog to walk up to kids in strollers.  That kid may have dogs at home, and may be just begging to pet your dog, but for all you know, the dog he has at home doesn't mind being poked in the eye; or grabbed by the ear, or kicked in the nose.....Your dog might have a problem with that.

Not to mention, some parents of kids in strollers who have dogs at home, might assume that all dogs have the same level of tolerance that their own dog does.  They may not be acting as consciously as they should about the way their child touches your dog.  Choose wisely here.

5. If you have a dog who is reacting negatively, or aggressively to the sounds, sights and other nonsense that kids provide, please get with a good teacher who will help you. 

6. Do not trust your dog.
Kids and dogs should never be left unattended.  The worst cases of mauling are usually when a child and a dog were left alone and unsupervised.  Grandpa's ol' lab may be a rolling fat tank sweetheart with the visiting grandkids, but now the 5 year old is missing half her face (true story) because they allowed her to play outside in the backyard with him, by herself.  No one was watching, and the child attempted to take a bone out of his mouth, and he lost it.  At least that was the best the police could surmise from the location of the bone, and where the attack happened.

7. Do not allow your dog to roam about freely.  There are leash laws for reasons; adhere to them.

For Parents:
1. It is Your Responsibility to teach your kids that dogs like space.  Strange dogs should NEVER be touched until the owner of said dog says it is o.k. to do so.

Big dogs or little dogs, it doesn't matter.  Puppies or adult dogs, ASK FIRST.  Always.

2. Do not allow your kids to touch or kiss the face of a dog they are being allowed to pet.  Especially if you do not know the dog personally. Some dogs may be ok with a pet to the back or the chest, but a small child attempting to grab their head and plant one on their nose is a recipe for disaster.

This is not ok.

3. When you are visiting someone's house, do not allow your children to pester the dog.  Recently in the news, there was a severe bite to the face of a young visitor to a party of a celebrity couple.  The woman whose child was bitten claimed she asked the hosts to remove the dog, as she felt uncomfortable with it being around her kid.....well, I got news for ya:  That was the dogs house.  If you feel uncomfortable, you may voice your opinion, but it is your job, as a parent to protect your child.  And if the host doesn't want to remove their furry kid, then you should remove yourself, and your kid, from the area.  Allowing your child to stay where you aren't comfortable with the situation, is inviting trouble.

On the other hand, as a responsible dog owner, the host probably should have realized the dog wasn't comfortable either, and placed him in a safer, quieter, less-kid traveled zone.

4.  Parents, please, please, please stop allowing your wobbly, awkward toddler to go up to dogs at the park without you attached to their hand.  Giving your kid a twelve foot head start on the way to the Golden Retriever who is tied to a tree, eight feet away from where her family is playing Frisbee is not a good plan.  Not only is your child too young to understand if the dogs' owner calls out "She's not good with kids" but you are too far away to stop it if she rushes at him, and her leash happens to be long enough to reach him.

5.  Keep your kids close to you in those big box pet stores!
Letting your children race carts, or each other through the stores allowing dogs inside creates a tense atmosphere.  The employees hate you.  They may smile as you check through the line, and try their best to grin while your kids race through a "training" class, but inside, they are screaming.  It's rude.  And your unattended children mobbing some poor shoppers dog two isles away from you, is just not safe.


For Parents Who Are Also Owners:
1.  Teach your kids to respect your dog.  Things like this photo are why bites happen...well, one of the many many reasons bites happen.  This is not a cute picture to me at all.  This is an uncomfortable dog.

 
Give both kids and dogs places to be that are "no zones" to each other.
The dog's bed is the Dogs.  The kids bed, or the couch, can belong to the kids.  Providing zones and places that are off limits to each other gives both members of the family a space where they know they can leave to; you like that quiet time in your room, without the children, don't you?  It is necessary for them to have places they can get away from each others' craziness.

*notice how this dog is leaning and trying to stay far away?*

2. The dog crate is a NO KID  place.  I know it's cute when I see those facebook photos of your kids locked in the dog crate (we've all thought about it) but when I see a kid inside a crate WITH a dog, I wanna smack the back of someone's head.  There really isn't enough room in there for a dog to move away from the kid if it wants, or needs to.

What if that 45 lb. kid accidentally stomps on the dog's leg in a manner that hurts, and the dog feels like there is nowhere to go?  Animals react to pain in different ways; your sweet, mild-mannered Schnauzer may love those grandkids on the floor, eating goldfish crackers and watching cartoons, but he may not love being smashed into the corner of his kennel with a 3 year old on his head.




3.  The dogs food dishes are OFF LIMITS when the dog is eating kids.
Seriously.  Your dog may not have any kind of aggression issues about his food, but allowing your 4 year old to sit next to him laughing and driving a hot wheels over his body while he is eating, is asking for it.  Give the dog some peace.




4.  The kids plates and trays are OFF LIMITS  when the kid is eating.
Again, there may be something adorable about letting the family Rottweiler clean that highchair tray, but not while the child is in it. You never know what your kid may try, and vice-versa.

5. Stop putting your toddler on the ground at the dog park.  Have you any idea how dangerous this is?!?! One second she's up, the next, she's been knocked down by a racing Labrador and smashed by the Husky behind him.  She's screaming, you're trying to make her feel better, and oh lovely, she landed in a pile of poop that no one bothered to clean up...awesome parenting guys.

And the runner up to that family, is the one that allows their little kiddle to play barefoot at the dog park, in the watering trough, then marching around near the gate in all that urine.  Bare.  Feet.
The following statements from the Environmental Protection Agency should sum up why that turns my stomach:
 "...it has been estimated that a single gram of dog waste can contain 23 million fecal coliform bacteria, which are known to cause cramps, diarrhea, intestinal illness, and serious kidney disorders in humans. EPA even estimates that two or three days’ worth of droppings from a population of about 100 dogs would contribute enough bacteria to temporarily close a bay, and all watershed areas within 20 miles of it, to swimming and shell fishing.

Dog feces are one of the most common carriers of the following diseases:

• Heartworms
• Whipworms
• Hookworms
• Roundworms
• Tapeworms
• Parvo
• Corona
• Giardiasis
• Salmonellosis
• Cryptosporidiosis
• Campylobacteriosis"

 Seriously Parents....Bare foot Toddlers at the dog park...gross.


What this all really boils down to, is the ol' Ask First.
Weather you have a kid or a dog, or both, taking responsibility for our charges and ourselves requires more.  More communication.
More teaching.
More respect.
And above all  More Common Sense.

Screaming Kids

Couple of days ago, my big, scared dog went to the hardware store, and only had a minor moment of fear, not panic, when it seemed we couldn't make this woman leave our tailside.  Literally, I pulled him to the side three times to let her and her cart full or pavers and soil pass, and every time, she stopped to look at something or talk to her husband.  Then I'd think "ok, we'll go then" and we'd try, but right that instant, she'd move too.....We finally lost her when I found an isle too skinny for her cart, and he calmed immediately.

We've been making a lot of progress in the Out in Public scenes, and he's beginning to understand that the world is not out to get him...

Anyway, last night, I took this dog, who's been making huge strides in the confidence department around Humans, for a walk around the block.  He's relaxed, but then....there's kids on bikes...ok...one moment of turning circles to calm him, and he's ok.  I'm thinkin' "Fantastic!  All that hardware store time is paying off" and then, about 15 minutes into our stroll, it happens:

"Doggie!!!!"  "Doggie!!!" "Doggie!!! We Want To Pet Your Dog!!!!"  Two screaming little girls on bicycles are making a beeline for us!  We cross the street.  They follow.  Racing and screaming 'doggie' the whole time.  I call to them, "Girls, he's very scared of kids, can you please give us some space?"  Mind you, these are not kids who are too young to understand that...They look at least 7 or 8.  "OHHHHHhhhh!!! But we LOVE Dogs!!"  is the scream that responds as they race not two feet away from my poor guy, who is backing up with a force that I'm sure I could enter into weight-pull competitions, if they allowed the dog to pull backwards that is.

We finally lose them when I manage to drag Gerodi out of their parents approved "you can bike to there" zone, almost a whole block away.

Why?  Why do parents not think it is important to teach their kids how to behave around dogs?
Those girls just set him back.  I'm sure he'll bounce, and we'll have to spend more time around kids on bikes, but I'll have to start at the skate park where the kids are teenagers, and could care less about the 'mom' with her dog who says DO NOT PET ME on his vest.

What if, instead of fear, my dog had an extremely aggressive response to screaming kids coming at him.  And despite my best efforts, (let's say I don't teach dogs professionally in this scenario) he yanks the leash from my hands because your kids' screaming and rushing at him was too much for him to handle.  What if he's faster then your kids?  Ever watch a West Highland White chase something down?  Yeah...that was your kids leg.

Parents, please.  For the sake of all dogs, for the sake of all children, will you please put more effort into teaching your kids how to behave when a dog is present.  When I was a kid, it seemed that all my friends knew to ignore a dog, or to ask politely if they could touch it.  Screaming and running up to a strange dog was not something that people of my generation did too much of.  It seems to me now, that there is a dangerous lack of this training among young Humans these days.

I fear for dogs when I go to the park.  Really.  I see parents allowing their small toddlers run, unassisted and wobbly, up to large dogs on leash.  I watch dog owners laughing as their beagles knock kids over in their enthusiasm to lick their faces.  And while it's sweet that the dog wants to kiss that kid so bad, what if the kid doesn't feel that way and starts crying loudly, or reacts by smacking the dog in the face, and the dog retaliates? 

I work with families who are convinced the Dog is the one with all the behavioral issues, but are allowing the kids to mercilessly tease or follow the dog into places where it is obviously trying to get away from them.  I cringe as I watch these kids pile on top of a dog trying to enjoy a bone, or chasing the kids around while one or two or them laughs and screeches "bad dog!"

These are recipes for disaster.
I don't care if you own a Dachshund or a Great Dane, a German Shepherd or a Golden Retriever, a Bichon or a Bassett, or if you have no dog at all.  If you have children, it is your responsibility to show them how to be safe and respectful of canines wherever they are.

Tomorrow:
The Easy and Simple Rules to Follow to Keep Kids and Dogs Safe from Each Other.