Leash manners are the single most common concern and complaint (besides having a dog who doesn't know where pee belongs) I hear about. There are some Humans out there who don't care that the dog pulls, but for those of you who do, check out this list of simple things you can do to improve your odds of having Charlie walk with you.......instead of trying to walk you.
1. Take a Class.
I know, I know, I harp on this, but if what you've done so far hasn't helped, why not get a second opinion from a professional trained in the art of teaching canines to follow, instead of lead?
2. Stop Using a Retractable Leash.
Most "trainers" hate these things, and are not shy about telling you either. I personally feel there is a time and a place for them. They are, however, quite possibly the absolute WORST for teaching your dog how not to pull. Your dog has no idea where the end of the leash is most of the time, so they constantly test to see how much freedom they may have that day. If your dog cannot clearly judge what constitutes as "too far," why wouldn't they want to explore?
3. Evaluate Your Tools.
You may need to talk to a professional on this one. If your Power Puller sounds like an asthmatic trying to run a marathon at the end of your leash, or you've been pulled off your feet when Spot took off after a rabbit, it might be an issue of equipment. Or Rascal flies into a frothing frenzy at the sight of other dogs, and that medieval looking collar your neighbor suggested seems to do nothing, it may be time to look in to other methods.
Mind, the tool is only as good as the handler, so matching the appropriate tool to the situation is key. Where one dog may excel in a no-pull harness, another may need a prong collar (properly fit and used), still another might just need a better reward for doing the right thing.
4. Practice IN Your House.
I am not exactly sure why, but some Humans get locked in to the idea that your dog's leash can only be used outdoors. Giving your dog the chance to practice in an environment that has little to no distractions (and certainly no squirrels) gives you a chance to have success. Thereby increasing the odds that when you do come across a distraction in the outside world, your pup will not be as effected by it.
5. Stop Moving Forward.
Why are you giving your dog the impression that pulling works, by continuing to move in the direction he is pulling you? The simple act of not moving can be a great way to start teaching the dog that pulling doesn't work.
6. Go the Other Way.
After you've stopped, turn around. Every time your dog blasts out in front of you, turn and go the other direction. You may find yourself doing a few ping-pong ball moves (ok, a lot of them) at first, but soon, you'll start to see that the dog is either turning with you (meaning you no longer feel any tension on the leash as you make those turns), or he begins to look up at you to see what the heck you may be thinking. Which brings me to my next tip:
7. Use Rewards.
If you catch your dog in the right place, that is, slightly behind you, or directly next to you with his head, reward him. This is why practicing in the house is so important--The more your dog gets rewarded when in the right place, turned around for being in the "wrong" place, and gently turned in to a Follower, the more he is apt to repeat that behavior.
Feeding a Follower does not mean you are reaching out in front of you, waving a piece of sausage and making all kinds of silly noises to try to gain your pup's attention. When he is in the right place, lower a food reward worth his time, (think Meats or Cheeses) next to your leg, or just behind it. If he is paying attention as he should be, he will "find" it. If you quietly lower a reward, and he's not paying attention, Go the Other Way and set him up to be attempting to pass you (he will). This way, you are setting him up for more chances to be rewarded. And yes, this works for dogs who "don't like food," or ones who "aren't allowed" to eat human food. Praises, pets, toys...they all can work, but just like you have to have the right tool on the right dog, you have to match the right reward to the right dog as well.
8. Stop Letting Your Dog "Say Hi."
I cannot stress this enough. Allowing your friendly Fido to "say hi" every time another friendly dog comes by is telling him one very clear message: I only have to pay attention to my handler until another dog shows up, and then I can ignore them completely.
Think about it: How many times have you been on a walk, getting a little bit of success in ANY behavior, and then here comes a dog. Whether it's a reactive dog you have, or one who just loooooves everything in the Universe, you must teach that animal that You are making his choices on that excursion. If you are asking for a Sit Stay, and a dog is coming down the street, and you know your dog can't handle staying in that Stay, release his Stay, and move to a distance where you will have success.
I am not saying I don't want your dog to be social; quite the opposite. I want your dog to first learn to be civil, and responsive to your requests, and THEN learn to be politely social. This will set you up to avoid a lot of unnecessary aggression, anxiety, or plain rude behaviors in the future. A dog you can trust.
9. Find Places to Let Your Dog Be a Dog.
Dogs who spend their entire lives on leash, do not really understand how to handle themselves off leash. It is true that the majority of classes and situations do require our dogs to be leashed, and this is a good thing. It keeps them safe. But if you can, find ways to let your pup explore without one.
Just like we want him to realize that on a walk, you are making the choices, we also want him to use his mind and figure things out. We want to cultivate a well-rounded animal, who makes good decisions when he is allowed to do so. There is a reason farm and ranch and mountain dogs are so chill...they spend a lot of their time just being Canine.
10. Be Patient.
You didn't learn to walk in one day. Cut your dog some slack, and let him learn at his own pace.
Happy Bonding!
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