Suspicious Puppy

"Oh you think you're so tough!...."

How many times have you seen someone, (or been someone) with a puppy in their arms, who is growling, barking, and generally freaking out over the sight of another dog?  Or worse, a person who just entered the room?

This is not cute.

It is not something the puppy will just "grow out of..."

This is a fear-based response, that can grow into an ugly and hard to handle adult dog.

This is a necessary behavior for a baby canine to have.  If they weren't living in your comfy home, this response may indeed help keep them alive.  Posturing with hackles raised, towards things that make you nervous may cause the scary thing to retreat.  And if it works, the pup will repeat it.

So how do you help a wrongfully suspicious pup become a well-balanced and properly socialized adult?

*Do Not Make Light of It.
Stop saying things like "oh you think you're so tough."  Your pup does not think they are tough.  They are scared.

     A puppy that growls or barks when they see another dog, or person, should be told "No."  Following this, they should be turned away, or led away the opposite direction, so that they can no longer stare down the scary thing.  Not far, but just far enough to bring you to point number two...

*Use LOTS of Rewards.
Once you've corrected an inappropriate growling, get your cheese ready.  Get puppy focused on you and offer rewards just for looking at the scary thing without reacting.  Most puppies will sense your good mood when food is involved.  Bring a happy tone to your voice, and start saying dumb things..."Oh jeez, here's some cheese.  Can you see that brand new friend over there?  Here you go!  Good Puppy !  Oh my gosh, do you wan that person to five you some?  OH, you smelled friend's leg, good job! "

     Keep that verbal encouragement flowing so in the event that your pup doesn't take your cues, you can drop into that "No" and walk away very quickly.  It's all about paying your pup for what you want to see, and correcting for what isn't appropriate.

If your pup doesn't respond easily to this approach, contact a professional and get the individual help your dog may need.

*Please Don't Say "It's OK."
To a puppy, when we try to soothe with petting and a constant stream of "It's OK" while he's growling, we are sending him a clear message that we want to see more of this behavior.

     You wouldn't calm a 2 year old child who is hitting his sister by telling him "It's OK" while he continues to hit her.  Once you've stopped the unwanted behavior, that is when you can tell him "It's OK." See earlier article "When It's OK is Not" for a more in-depth discussion of this.

*Hang Out With Old Dogs.
A suspicious puppy can greatly benefit from being around well-mannered older dogs--No, the other dogs at your house do not count.  I am talking about forming relationships with strange dogs; making new friends.  Your pup will grow more comfortable around other dogs if exposed to some good personalities. 

Older dogs who know when enough is enough are vital to the social development of pups; can you imagine what children would be like without someone older around to say "that's a bad plan"?

*Dog Parks Are Not Always a Good Idea.
In an effort to get your pup around older dogs, a dog park might be a tempting, easy access place...However, this may be entirely too overwhelming for your naturally suspicious puppy.  As stated earlier, suspicious behaviors are fear-based; most fearful pups are a bit shy.

     Think about this:
     *You take her to the dog park.
     *She gets mobbed by adult and adolescent dogs who are not at all polite enough to realize she is a little unsure.
     *She runs.  They chase.
     *She begins to flop on her back and expose belly every time she's approached.
     *OR she starts bristling and showing fang when approached; she gives the occasional snap when another dog is trying to smell her/hump her/smash her to the ground...you think she's learning to stand up for herself, so you allow it.
     *She runs to you for help, but you think this play is fun, and she seems so eager to get in to the park when you arrive, so you bring her again.  And again.
     *You start to notice she is increasingly more vocal while on leash.  It seems she is reacting bigger and bigger anytime she sees another dog on a walk....

     On the Contrary:
     *You contact friends, or ask your vet if you can put a flyer up seeking play dates.
     *You take her to meet 2 or 3 older dogs, in a controlled setting, at someone's house, or in your yard.  You are close enough to help if things get too tense, and you can bring cheese!  Not to mention, you know these dogs are all vaccinated.
     *She freaks out a little (remember, leashes sometimes create more tension--but it's a good idea to go for a short walk together before you turn them loose in the yard).  The older dog either ignores her, or is experienced with pups and gently shows her that his intentions are to play, by bowing and dashing away from her.  She learns to chase, and to be chased without being afraid.
     *Suspicious puppy learns to wrestle correctly.  This means, sometimes she is the one pinning the older dog, and sometimes older dog has her pinned.  Proper play is an exchange; it should not be one-sided.  She is learning to chill out around other dogs.
     *Several of these visits, with different play partners and she now has the social skills necessary to perhaps handle a dog park.  Rover.com is a great way to find dogs to play with--a client of mine with an extremely fearful Weimaraner pup, found a Great Dane with good manners through Rover.com and now her dog has several friends.  Exposing her to one nice dog, who didn't chase her around trying to play too hard, showed her how to enjoy most dogs.

*Find a Good Puppy Group.
Just as we want her to learn good skills from older dogs, being able to socialize with kids her own age is important too.  Finding a well-run playgroup can help.  Talk to your vet, or your puppy class instructor to see what's available.  Remember, "well-run" means that nobody is allowing bullying or other poor behaviors to continue.  The instructor should be explaining why they break up certain play, and giving you tips on how to manage your particular pup, so you can help.  You do not want to attend a group where the instructor is sitting in a chair, telling you things like "they'll work it out," while two puppies smash your pup in a corner, or allow your pup to terrorize a smaller/weaker puppy.

*Take a Class.
Yup, I said it again.  Getting your dog into at least one basic class, sets you up for success for the rest of that dogs life.  He learns to pay attention to you when other dogs are present.  He learns other dogs close by are not scary, or worth growling at (your instructor should help teach you how to work the "leave it" if he is).  And he gets to meet more people.

When your pup is stiff and raising hackles; growling and maybe barking, ask yourself "Is this something I want my adult dog to do?"  It will be repeated unless you do something to change it. 

A suspicious puppy is actually one of my favorite personality types.  That is a pup with a thinking process; a common sense if you will.  It is your job, as that pup's guardian and caretaker, and teacher, to show them when suspicion is warranted, and when they need to just leave off. 

It is your canvass.  Paint a picture you can be proud of.