The Short Walk

He needs more exercise.  

Yes.

However, if you are trying for leash-manners, that may not include a long walk.  If your walk looks like a wrestling match, or your pup is attempting to run the Iditarod with you in tow, then perhaps that is not the right kind of exercise.   There is not a lot of mental strain for a dog who isn't focusing on any behaviors that you ask of him.  He is in a reactionary state--he is simply Doing, instead of Thinking.  So how do we create a Thinker?

Begin by removing the "OH MY GAWD SHE HAS MY LEASH IN HER HAND!!!!" insanity that most dogs show you.  

They do this because every time you pick that leash up, you take him somewhere.  Pick the leash up, ignore him losing his mind, carry the leash around 'til he calms down, put the leash back on the peg...Now repeat until the dog looks at you with "Liar, we're not doing anything fun" written on his face.

Graduate to clipping the leash to  him and just letting him drag it around until he stops freaking out.  By breaking the process down in the manner, you will eventually get a dog who can Sit quietly for you to take out the leash, put it on, and now we go outside.

But before we try to go for an actual walk, maybe he needs to figure out how to follow you in the house.  Your house is boring to your dog.  I mean, we do the best we can.  We provide them with stuff to do; things to chew, treats to gain for tricks, etc, but they know every little corner.  Every smell is familiar, and there are no squirrels (wait...you have squirrels???) so it's easier to keep his focus on you. 

If you have an exceptionally wired pup, and you've gotten him to the boring stage, but every time you pick up the leash to try the next step, he loses it....that's ok.  You can either just stand there not making eye contact, and not talking to him until he relaxes, or you can drop the leash and walk away from him when he loses his mind.  I'm not at all kidding when I say that sometimes you have to break things down in to micro-bites of success for a hyper-pup.

Furniture makes great obstacles for you to walk around.  If your dog tries to get in front of you, simply go a different direction.  When you catch him in the right place--either just next to your leg with his head (not shoulders--you should be able to make both left and right turns without bumping in to him; meaning he is actually following you) reward him for being in the right place.  Treat him.  Feeding him while he is in the right position, and going the other way when he tries to lead you, starts to teach him what you want.  

"But Rose, I don't use treats.  My dog should listen to me because I am his Master.  And besides, he doesn't really like food rewards."  OK, then use LOTS of praise, and pet him on the ribcage (head can be over-stimulating) and be patient.  

Doing this leash practice in a non-stimulating environment makes this process go so quickly.  Even on a "crazy dog."  

Ok, are you ready to try this outside?  Boom! Everything you just taught him flew away and he thinks yanking you around is the thing to do. 

I watched a great video years ago (can't find it...i'm sorry) where this British trainer was teaching two insane labs to walk like polite pups on the leash.  When he reached the point of taking them outdoors, it took the yellow one more than 30 re-tries before she walked out the door at less than Mach-9.  My point is, be patient.  Very patient.  You may need to pull that pup back indoors a thousand times before they figure out the only way they are going through that door is nicely.

She got a piece of bratwurst for finally doing it right.  Tail wagging, they tried it again, and she was happily looking up at him...knowing that the reward was coming, and what was expected of her.

Shew, you made it outside.  Here's the short walk:  Do the exact same thing you taught him in your house, with the furniture.  Go up and down your driveway.  If you are doing well, maybe try two houses down, two houses back.  Use the trees.  Use the parked cars.  If you live in an apartment on the third floor, use the hallway and the stairs (be careful; stairs can be hell on canine knees) to illustrate that you are willing to do this a million times.

Ten minutes of quality walking practice in the driveway is more value for his mental stimulation, than a couple miles of reactionary out-of-control pulling you through the neighborhood.

You are going for quality over mileage.  Cuz' guess what?  You have a yard, or a long-line, that you can burn off some of that physical energy with, prior to your training session.  I suggest beginning and ending a training session with play.

Dogs live for play.  If they don't get to do fun things, they will choose what fun things they will do.  That means ignoring you.  Incorporate play into your training sessions too.  For those of you who give me the "we don't use food" I say Play More!!!  If you are using food, add Play as a supplemental reward. 

When my pup does something right, and he gets both a snack, and a chance to play with his friend (me) and we are jumping around and acting like fools together, he knows he has done the right thing for sure.  Be happy for them!  Show them they are great!  

There are exceptions to every rule.  You may try all these things and still feel like it's not working.  Contact a good Teacher and schedule a session to evaluate your unique situation.  Maybe your pup is not wearing the right piece of equipment for his individual personality.  

You may have a dog who does get over-stimulated when you incorporate excited play...that is a different conversation.

Your rescue pup may not be emotionally capable of what you are asking yet. 

Or maybe you are not physically able to jump around with him, that's OK.  There are levels of excitement that can work for everyone...you just have to be patient and figure out what works best for you and your pup.

So take those Short Walks.  

The "S" Word....

...No, not that one.

I'd like to talk about shock collars.

Now,  before y'all get righteous on me,  we aren't going to dissect how you may feel about their use in "training."  We are not going to get into whether or not you may feel they are abusive. Or if you think they're wonderful.

We are briefly going to talk about the automatic bark- control variety of these electronic collars.

We are going to simply share two things:

One;  those things pack a punch.  Most run of the mill,  bought-it-online or the-guy-at-petschmo said it was their bestseller collars are WAY too strong for your dog.

Two; very few people who strap these things to their animals read anything about what this can do to them behaviorally, or physically.

They don't follow the instructions past how to charge it, or how long you "should" leave this on your animal.

How does a long-haired coat, or a double-coat effect this tool?

Should your pet be unsupervised in this collar?

The collar itself (not the shock-box) is usually made of weather-proof, strong, plastic material, and Does Not Have a Quick Release,  or Safety Breakaway.... how many dogs are wearing these alone to chase squirrels in the backyard?

Or to wrestle with other dog friends? Have you ever witnessed a dog with its jaw hung up in another dogs collar?

Ok,  I lied... we are going to talk about a third thing.  If you aren't comfortable with gross pictures,  I suggest you read this, but do not look at the photos at the end.

The pictures are of two different dogs, from two different families.  They were the second and third victims to come to the same hospital facility in the same week. They came in on the same day,  not even hours apart. The first dog (not pictured) was in even worse shape.

The dogs have infected wounds on their throats from bark collars.  The collars were cinched tight (cannot get good connection with the electrode points unless it is snug)  and were not checked, or removed daily.  The collars obviously did not silence these dogs, as these wounds are from electric burns.  The infection is due to the electrode points sitting on those burns for a long time.

Most likely these humans did not know the collars weren't keeping them quiet, because these dogs were most likely left alone wearing them.

In the first photo,  you will notice the dog has four burn points.  One set looks a little less gooey than the other.  This tells me the collar burn was noticed, and the box was moved and re-cinched, or the dog managed to scratch the collar hard enough to change the contact point's position at one time.

The dog not pictured? The technicians who witnessed the removal of the collar described it as an open hole with "stringy puss" as they peeled the box out of the dog's neck.

The dog pictured :  The infected area expands almost two inches in any direction around those green goo filled contact point holes.

I know life is busy.  It's Christmas for goodness sake.  You've got family in town.  Babies to put down for a nap. People and places to be at and entertain with, but seriously???

If you choose to strap a heavy electric shock to your pet,  I would hope you have shocked yourself at least once at whatever level you have set it at for your dog (not kidding,  bark collars are the worst! Ow).  

I also hope you have decided after reading this, to check that thing.  Take it off your friend for at least 12 hours a day (close the dog door if it's a barking at night problem).

Move it around every few hours,  and change the collar type to breakaway for safety (you're not supposed to clip a leash to them anyway).

Or even better, figure out why your dog is barking and start working on that.  What kind of personality does your dog have?  Is he bored?  Does he spend all day in the backyard, with nothing but barking to do?

There are so many alternatives to this method of attempting to silence your pup's annoying mouth.  Maybe reaching out to a good Professional Teacher (of the dog-specializing variety) would be a good place to start.....

*pictures are below, keep scrolling....

Easy Peasy Ways to Entertain a Smart Dog

So you find  yourself with a smart dog.  The dog who is always "On." The dog who, for the life of you, just can't or won't settle down and just allow you to live your life.  The one who always needs all the attention:  All.  The.  Time.  So, how do you keep a guy like that from making you nuts?
It's easier than you think, but yes, it will require some intervention from you. 

1.  Join a Class.  *smile* For those of you who regularly read my articles, you know that this was bound to be on this list.  Practically every "annoying" dog problem can be helped by teaching them some new skills.  Think Agility, or Flyball, or Tracking, or Nosework, or Rally Obedience, or even a Tricks class.  These are fun, fast-paced and novel things that your dog will dig.  It may take some experimenting to figure out what he's into, but there are SO many classes out there...

2. Don't have time for a class? Totally OK!  Grab a book, or youtube some fun new things to do with your dog. 

Kyra Sundance has a great book called "101 Dog Tricks."  She also has one geared for kids and puppies called "51 Puppy Tricks."  All are Positive Reinforcement based, and are easy to follow with pictures and 'how to's.' 

Tom and Lauren have "Absolute Dogs" (all about turning obedience into games for focus!) and it's available online!

Udemy.com has some great canine courses.  Just search "Dog Trick Training" at the website.

Zac George on YouTube, has "7 tricks in 5 minutes."

Check out Training Positive on YouTube.  That kid has a whole series of safe, easy to follow videos that don't take much time to start.



3. Get a Flirt Pole.  Seriously.  If you've got a smarty pants who loves to chase things, you need one of these.  It is essentially a dog-size version of those cat toys with the stick and the string.  These toys also are a great way to teach your dog how to get crazy, then shut it off appropriately.  They pack an enormous amount of physical energy spending into not a lot of space, so if you don't have a big yard, this can still be a great way to wear out your pup. 

Squishy Face makes a reasonably priced toy, but if you've got a strong guy, you may have to swap out their basic felt braid on the end, with something a little more substantial.

4. Get Rid of Your Dog's Food Bowl.  We humans take all the natural foraging out of the equation for our dogs.  Instead of your dog spending the majority of his day foraging for scraps, or carrion, or hunting the occasional small game, we make his meals too easy--we dump it in a bowl and it gets inhaled in 3.2 seconds. 

Put the game back into his life; get a busy bowl, or a bunch of them.  Making your dog work for his meals is an easy, and much less labor intensive way to entertain his brain.  Households that choose this as the preferred feeding method tend to have calmer animals. 

If you have a multi-dog house, you may have to separate them by gates, or in different rooms in order for this not to promote fighting for the resource, but it is an easy thing to do this.  If you pup has an extra large kennel, that is appropriate for some stuffable busy toys, like a Kong, but may not be enough space for a more complicated busy toy.

5. Dog puzzles. 
Yes, some dogs figure these out in no time flat.  But maybe you just need harder puzzles. 



There are so many out there, you might just have to get creative. 

6. Exercise. Structured exercise to be precise.  You can send them to Day Care, or turn them loose at the dog park, but honestly, there are some dogs out there that can do that and still be maniacs when they come home.  This is because they are not utilizing their thinking minds as much as they are capable of.  They are in a reactive state of mind when they are running pell-mell without instruction; sure, they are having the time of their lives, but it will not truly wear them out.

                              

A structured, calm walking session, or a 20 minute training session (in addition to all that manic running around with their friends) is really the best way to get a balanced animal.

7. Hire a Hike.  Did you know there are companies out there who will pick your dog up, take them somewhere cool, keep them safe, and return them to you totally tired???  In my neck of the woods there is a great one called Waggin' Tails and Trails (www.waggintailsandtrails.com).  After an initial meet and greet, your dog will get to join his buddies in the woods and explore some of the best places Colorado has to offer a four-legger.  It's like a vacation and camp all in one.  Where this trumps the daycare option, in my opinion, is the mental stimulation he gets from exploring open spaces.  The groups are small, and his pack is not constantly fluctuating (as with the coming and going of a daycare) so he can truly enjoy his experience.

8. Play games with your dog.  My daughter plays the Cup Game with our Rockman--you know, the one where you hide something cool under one of three or five cups, and rearrange them all crazy-like, then ask the dog to find the treat?  He loves this!  I love this because it not only works on his basic manners (he has to sit, stay, wait and find), but it reinforces and strengthens their bond.

Many of my clients play Hide n' Seek with their dogs; again, teaching them to Stay while you go hide, then calling them so they can Find you.  Or have a family member or friend hold on to the dog while you go hide.

Start naming different objects and toys, and have your dog 'find' these things.  Did you know there is a Border Collie out there who knows the names of over 800 different things?  And can correctly identify them???  Your dog, who you already know is bright, is probably more cognitively capable than you can imagine.  Start putting that brain to work! 

Play Tug o' War (appropriately!!! check out http://ccanine.blogspot.com/2014/06/tools-you-didnt-know-were-tools.html for proper game protocol.)
Play Chase (he should be chasing you, not the other way around).
Play.  Just play.

9. Teach Settle or Calm.  Most of the other things on the list are geared towards physical and mental exercise, but what about the other end of the spectrum?  Your dog should also learn how to be calm, and to allow you to handle all parts of his body.  Give him a massage.   Not only does this help your relationship, it helps your dog be more comfortable in situations where he may normally lose it, or be too nervous to function.  Think Vet visit, or groomer, or say you're on a walk and he steps on a Goat-head! 

Your dog must have a grasp on how to at least Sit on cue; preferably to Down as well.  A Stand is alright, but only if he can Stay when you ask.  Begin with simple, gentle petting on all parts of him.  If there's a place he doesn't appreciate it, go slowly and more lightly, and maybe bring out some peanut butter, or cheese.  Just because you have a dog who is always "on," does not mean you can't teach him to "off" for just a few minutes.

We  have a Jack Russell/Pitbull/Whippet cross who is the basic equivalent of the energizer dog (he's almost 10 and is just now starting to act more like a dog with a 'normal' level of energy).  Teaching him to Place and to Stay, was vital (in addition to a balance of physical exercise and mental stimulation) towards us getting some peace when we were done.  Utilizing massage to encourage relaxation is a great way to get some quiet time.

10. Consider a Treadmill.  I have a handful of clients who are currently LOVING their tread-trained dogs.  This can be an excellent, quick and easy way to take the edge off a crazy kid, before you go for a walk.  A treadmill may be a lifesaver for a dog who might not enjoy the company of other dogs.  It can be a fun way to exercise your dog when it's too inclement to go outside for a long period of time, and it can be a great way to alleviate the pent up energy that can lead to your house being trashed while you're away.

If you use a positive, fun method to start this training, in no time at all your dog will grow to think this a blast. 

There are 3 basic rules for tread training:
Do Not EVER tie your dog to the mill.  He can really  harm himself this way.  We won't get into the gory details.
NEVER get out of sight of your dog on the mill.  Again, he may need your help; be there.
Do Not speed it up so that your dog is all out running.  A light trot, or an easy jog is more than sufficient.  If you want to make it a bit more difficult, put the incline up a little, not the speed.

If you are unsure what a safe amount of time for your individual dog might be, check with your vet.  Just like you would check with your own doctor before you start training for a marathon, make sure your dog is healthy enough for this kind of exercise.





11. Start a playgroup at your house.  If you have a friendly dog, but don't trust the people or other pets at the local dog park, consider a playdate at  your place, or at the home of a friend.  Check with your vet to see if they will allow you to post a "playdate wanted" flyer, or look into Rover.com  These are great ways to get some social time with your dog, and know that everyone is vaccinated and that the owners are responsible...we hope.

12. Indoor agility, and other 'creative solutions.'  There are some great basic agility sets online (or if you're creative, you can make some) that can be easy to set up and run in your house.  Having your dog 'tunnel' or jump or weave through obstacle courses is again, good for his mind and body.

Years ago, I worked with a Yorkie Terrier who seemed bored to tears with any obedience.  He'd tap out on almost anything we attempted.....until we looked in to Earth-Dog.  Earth-Dog is a sport where small dogs "go to ground" in a man-made tunnel, after a rat or other 'vermin' like creature (don't worry, no rats are harmed). 

The little dude was really into hunting, so his people built him an indoor earth-dog course, in their basement.  They also installed a short agility course, and what do you know? He was suddenly very into learning! 

13. Cater to His Breed.  I know, breed does not make up your entire dog's personality, but his genetics do play a role in what interests him.  Your terrier wants to chase vermin.  Your Aussie wants to herd stuff.  Your Retriever wants to put stuff in his mouth.  Your Hound wants to follow his nose (or his eyes, depending on the type).  You may have a mutt, and not have the slightest clue "what" he is, but playing to his strengths will go a long way towards keeping him occupied.

He can't sit still?  Try agility.
He's crazy strong?  Maybe a freight harness, and a weight-pull community.
She bolts after anything that moves?  Lure-coursing may be her thing.

The thing is, you've got to find what motivates your dog as an individual, and exploit it.  Find things he enjoys, that aren't making you nuts, and provide them to the best of your ability.  A tired dog is a good dog, but a better dog is one that you've taught the difference between Play Time and Rest Time.

Dogs are designed to work for us.  They WANT to work with us.  Our greatest failure is when we don't give them what they need...even play is a chance to 'work' in a dog's mind. 

                                                                 Let's give them that.