Yes.
However, if you are trying for leash-manners, that may not include a long walk. If your walk looks like a wrestling match, or your pup is attempting to run the Iditarod with you in tow, then perhaps that is not the right kind of exercise. There is not a lot of mental strain for a dog who isn't focusing on any behaviors that you ask of him. He is in a reactionary state--he is simply Doing, instead of Thinking. So how do we create a Thinker?
Begin by removing the "OH MY GAWD SHE HAS MY LEASH IN HER HAND!!!!" insanity that most dogs show you.
They do this because every time you pick that leash up, you take him somewhere. Pick the leash up, ignore him losing his mind, carry the leash around 'til he calms down, put the leash back on the peg...Now repeat until the dog looks at you with "Liar, we're not doing anything fun" written on his face.
Graduate to clipping the leash to him and just letting him drag it around until he stops freaking out. By breaking the process down in the manner, you will eventually get a dog who can Sit quietly for you to take out the leash, put it on, and now we go outside.
But before we try to go for an actual walk, maybe he needs to figure out how to follow you in the house. Your house is boring to your dog. I mean, we do the best we can. We provide them with stuff to do; things to chew, treats to gain for tricks, etc, but they know every little corner. Every smell is familiar, and there are no squirrels (wait...you have squirrels???) so it's easier to keep his focus on you.
If you have an exceptionally wired pup, and you've gotten him to the boring stage, but every time you pick up the leash to try the next step, he loses it....that's ok. You can either just stand there not making eye contact, and not talking to him until he relaxes, or you can drop the leash and walk away from him when he loses his mind. I'm not at all kidding when I say that sometimes you have to break things down in to micro-bites of success for a hyper-pup.
Furniture makes great obstacles for you to walk around. If your dog tries to get in front of you, simply go a different direction. When you catch him in the right place--either just next to your leg with his head (not shoulders--you should be able to make both left and right turns without bumping in to him; meaning he is actually following you) reward him for being in the right place. Treat him. Feeding him while he is in the right position, and going the other way when he tries to lead you, starts to teach him what you want.
"But Rose, I don't use treats. My dog should listen to me because I am his Master. And besides, he doesn't really like food rewards." OK, then use LOTS of praise, and pet him on the ribcage (head can be over-stimulating) and be patient.
Doing this leash practice in a non-stimulating environment makes this process go so quickly. Even on a "crazy dog."
Ok, are you ready to try this outside? Boom! Everything you just taught him flew away and he thinks yanking you around is the thing to do.
I watched a great video years ago (can't find it...i'm sorry) where this British trainer was teaching two insane labs to walk like polite pups on the leash. When he reached the point of taking them outdoors, it took the yellow one more than 30 re-tries before she walked out the door at less than Mach-9. My point is, be patient. Very patient. You may need to pull that pup back indoors a thousand times before they figure out the only way they are going through that door is nicely.
She got a piece of bratwurst for finally doing it right. Tail wagging, they tried it again, and she was happily looking up at him...knowing that the reward was coming, and what was expected of her.
Shew, you made it outside. Here's the short walk: Do the exact same thing you taught him in your house, with the furniture. Go up and down your driveway. If you are doing well, maybe try two houses down, two houses back. Use the trees. Use the parked cars. If you live in an apartment on the third floor, use the hallway and the stairs (be careful; stairs can be hell on canine knees) to illustrate that you are willing to do this a million times.
Ten minutes of quality walking practice in the driveway is more value for his mental stimulation, than a couple miles of reactionary out-of-control pulling you through the neighborhood.
You are going for quality over mileage. Cuz' guess what? You have a yard, or a long-line, that you can burn off some of that physical energy with, prior to your training session. I suggest beginning and ending a training session with play.
Dogs live for play. If they don't get to do fun things, they will choose what fun things they will do. That means ignoring you. Incorporate play into your training sessions too. For those of you who give me the "we don't use food" I say Play More!!! If you are using food, add Play as a supplemental reward.
When my pup does something right, and he gets both a snack, and a chance to play with his friend (me) and we are jumping around and acting like fools together, he knows he has done the right thing for sure. Be happy for them! Show them they are great!
There are exceptions to every rule. You may try all these things and still feel like it's not working. Contact a good Teacher and schedule a session to evaluate your unique situation. Maybe your pup is not wearing the right piece of equipment for his individual personality.
You may have a dog who does get over-stimulated when you incorporate excited play...that is a different conversation.
Your rescue pup may not be emotionally capable of what you are asking yet.
Or maybe you are not physically able to jump around with him, that's OK. There are levels of excitement that can work for everyone...you just have to be patient and figure out what works best for you and your pup.
So take those Short Walks.
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