When we think of "Exercising the Dog," what comes to mind?
A lot of that depends on your individual dog, but in general, we think running. We think ball or stick chasing. We imagine leaps and spins and zooms, yes? For some of you, a sniffing and strolling at sloth speed...
None of that is off base. It is exercise, but not all exercises have to be purely cardio exertion. Mental stimulation and puzzle solving, when used hand in hand with play and teaching, can result in a much more tired puppy...Much more quickly than one who is in a constant state of hyper-activity and reaction to his environment.
But, how to meet the needs of a growing pup, in a smaller space? The following 5 suggestions, are most certainly not the Only ideas out there. Each of these can be adjusted to suit the needs of your unique situation. For instance, creating an indoor agility course, with broomstick jumps, box tunnels, and plastic bottle weave poles, might work for your small/tiny puppy, but you'll have to think of something else for your larger breed dogs.
These tips can help grown dogs too.
1. Get Rid of Your Food Bowl.
--Using interactive toys, or puzzle bowls helps satisfy the need for foraging and scavenging behaviors.
--When mealtime lasts longer, as they work out a puzzle, this means more peace for you. Try stuffing some broth-soaked kibble in to a Kong, and freezing it overnight. Working hard to get their meals is actually Good for them. Bigger dog, with bigger portions? Get two or three toys you can stuff.
--Keeping a portion of your dog's food readily available, such as in your pocket, opens the door for lots and lots of rewards. Those moments where the pup is actually doing what you want? Help him remember it, by surprising him with a "Good Dog!" and a snack. This also enables you to take advantage of the 'little moments' in life, where you have 3-5 minutes: Use them to do an impromptu round of Puppy Push-Ups or work on that trick you've been teaching him. Those minutes add up, and start to become the way he acts all around.
2. Play Fetch in a hallway, or from a balcony or deck.
--On balcony or small patio, orient yourself so the toy is gently tossed IN to the apartment; no throwing toys where they can slip off the balcony edge. Trust me, I have seen dogs who have jumped from dangerous heights, in pursuit of something they were too focused on....
--If using a "Central Hallway," or other space that puppy could escape, use a retractable leash, or a long line. This is one of the few places I feel a retractable leash is acceptable. Tying the handle of a retractable to a banister, or tree, can give your pup a way to run a little, without too much risk of him getting wound up and tangled in a long line.
Be aware of using community spaces, such as the common hall, and do not leave dog messes, or cause any issues or impediments to anyone else trying to walk down the hall. It is Not OK to play frisbee with an off-lead American Bully who doesn't like other dogs, in a common access apartment hallway....
--Choose appropriate toys. Do not hurl very hard, or extremely bouncy toys; use soft, non-bouncy toys, like Kong's Ballistic line, or Kong Floppy Knots. They are heavy, so a toss shouldn't send them to the moon.
--Helpful to use two of the Same Toy, if you have a pup who doesn't want to let go of his toys, and isn't really in to food rewards. Act as though the 'other' toy in your hand is "Waaaaay more cool" than the one he has. When he gets jealous, and finally drops the first toy, say "Drop it" calmly, as he spits it out. Immediately toss the 'other more cool' toy for him to chase. While he's busy going after that one, pick up the one he dropped; now that becomes the 'cool' toy, and the game can continue.
--Foodie? Keep tasty treats (better than just his regular food; he'll need more incentive when excited/playing) in your pocket or treat bag, to offer in trade for the toy. Hold the snack close to his nose, and say "Drop it," in calm fashion as he spits it out to eat.
If he snarfs the food too fast, and dives on the toy as you reach for it. Do not try to beat him to it. He just needs to work on his "Wait" or "Leave it" skills. Practice with two toys until he is better at waiting for you to pick up the toy. So it would be: Offer tasty snack, say 'drop it' as he spits out toy, give puppy snack, throw other toy. Finally, pick up first toy as he is off to get the other one.
--Your long line or retractable leash can also be used to play "short-distance" fetch, in a parking lot, or even a driveway. Obviously, keep safety in mind: Find a place to do this, that will not put you or your puppy in danger. A puppy dashing out in front of a car, even at slow speed can be fatal.
3. Practice Sit, Stay, Come.
--Puppy should be on a leash, so they cannot leave when they get bored, or distracted.
--Even a small, 6 foot long balcony can work, but ideally you want to have enough space to get 10 steps away from the dog.
--Place puppy in Sit. Ask for a short Stay. Walk to the other side of the space, turn calmly, and without too much excitement, call the puppy to you. The goal is to use an upbeat, happy sounding tone to encourage engagement. Reward the puppy for coming to you. Turn, and repeat.
At first, you may only get a couple steps from puppy, that is normal. Be patient and go slow. The first day you try this, your pup may only be able to sit still for maybe half a second. Try not to push it too far, too fast. It is ok to set those 10 steps as a goal for the end of the week.
Once they get the hang of this, some puppies like to preempt your call, by running to you the moment you turn around. You can head this off, by being unpredictable. Instead of calling him to you every time you pause from across the room, walk all the way back to him. Then walk away again. If he can't predict when you actually call, he's more likely to learn to just Stay until you do.
If he does get up and follow you, tell him 'no,' and lead him back to where you put him in the first place. Don't let him fudge the rules, by allowing him to Sit in a different spot than where you told him to. Be gentle, and put him back there as many times as necessary, to get him to stay still.
Should he insist on following you, instead of sitting still, go back to not moving away from him when you tell him to Stay. Build his tolerance for time, and then work on moving away. He may just need smaller steps, so he can understand what you want.
--Utilize mealtime as motivation. Asking them to Sit and Stay, before gaining access to a provided meal, notes a long way in teaching a young up to use better impulse control.
--Can convert this to a 'Find it' game too! Get pup to Sit and Stay, then place a treat a few steps away, in plain sight.
Return to the pup. Wait a couple seconds, then release him from the Stay and point in the direction of the treat, saying 'Find it.' When he snaps it up, say "Good" the moment he eats it.
Graduate to more challenging Find Its, by placing the treat behind an object, or under a towel. Don't hide it too well, or you'll create new problems. Nobody wants the carpet torn up, by a puppy trying to Find the treat they think is under it...
This game is Great for learning to Stay until released. If puppy gets up while you are 'hiding' the snack, don't get upset. Just tell him 'no,' and lead him back to where you had him. Repeat until he's got it. You may have to shorten the duration of the Stay, or go back to the beginning if he seems to be failing a lot.
4. Install a Zip Line. This one may not be as feasible, as you will need to find two poles, or trees, or even a railing and a tree. You'll need to choose a place that isn't in the flow of any vehicle, or pedestrian traffic.
An overhead trolly cable tie-out system, attached to a securely fit body harness for the pup, can give your dog a chance to run a little. Measure carefully to ensure the cable attached to the harness, from the top line, is not long enough to allow the pup to wrap it around the supporting ends, or anything else. This is accomplished by placing the "stops" on the top line.
Using a body harness (as opposed to a collar of any kind) protects the puppy from bodily harm. This system really does give your dog some running room--Sometimes, they might be in a full run, before hitting the end of the line. Making sure they aren't slamming a collar into their windpipe when this happens, is part of your job as puppy guardian.
If you have a real squirmy puppy, and you are concerned they will get free of whatever harness you choose, it can be connected to a soft martingale collar. Using a short 'connection' piece to clip the harness to the collar, but NOT to the line above his head, is acceptable. In the event that he hits the end of the line, the harness is absorbing the impact, not the collar. The martingale is there like a safety belt, only there for emergency situations.
If you do not have a way to permanently fix the trolley line to the trees, or other support, you can use long strips of heavy duty velcro, good camping straps, or even a belt.
A set up like this can give you a hands-free way to play and work with your busy puppy, without worry of being pulled off your feet, or the puppy wandering off.
5. Find places to take puppy, where it is safe for them to get off the leash and really run.
While small spaces can, and should be worked with, ultimately, your puppy needs to run.
If you are working with a small or toy breed, it is worth it to invest in one or two folding puppy pens. These come in various heights (24"-48") so you can get one that will keep your pup from jumping free. Keeping them in your car, and driving to a safe location to set them up and let your puppy play, without the constraints of a leash, can be a huge help. They most likely will not be enough space for a larger breed, unless you hooked 4 or 5 pens together--it can be done, I've seen it.
For our larger breeds, you must find a place where they can stretch out on a long line, at least. A park, or other open space, that might not have a fence, but has good footing, can work wonderfully.
Be mindful of others. Do not leave dog waste behind for someone else to deal with.
Get hold of the line if/when you see other people or dogs approaching. Do not allow your dog to just run up and 'say hi,' to anyone, without first making sure they actually want to talk to your dog. Just because your puppy loves everyone, does not mean that the dog they are running towards is friendly--Quite the opposite may be true.
A lot of folks who have dogs who don't enjoy the company of other dogs, tend to walk in parks where leash laws exist. They are doing this in the hopes that their dog, even the social incompetent ones, deserve a Life. They deserve to have a peaceful walk in the park. If you are using a space that clearly states to keep your dog leashed, please respect it.
These suggestions are by no means, the only things that you can do. There are folding treadmills that, once your pup has been gently taught to use, can be Enormous helps to satisfy the needs of an energetic puppy. There are professional dog-walkers you could hire, to come and pick your pup up for a run, or maybe one of the neighbor's kids wants a running buddy. Perhaps putting a flyer up at your local veterinarian's office, could help find a Puppy Play Date friend.
Once you start meeting the physical and mental exercise needs of your growing pup, you may find that living with that dog becomes a bit less stressful. A tired puppy, is usually a good puppy.
On the other hand....you may be trying to manage a Husky, or a Malinois in an apartment....in that case, I hope you are a long-distance runner, or someone with drive enough to take that dog to the park Every Day...Maybe even twice a day....
If that is the case, you may want to reevaluate the living situation altogether...
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