'Muzzle' is not a bad word

Any dog is capable of biting.  They have teeth.  Carnivore teeth.  They were predators chasing down prey (and eating our trash...) eons before they were parked on our couches.  Being aware of this, no matter the size, breed, or age of dog can help keep everyone safe.

There are plenty of times in your dog's life that may warrant wearing a muzzle.  I personally believe that every pet dog should be familiar with, and comfortable with wearing a muzzle; both the cloth and basket style.  "Why?" you may ask.  "My dog is friendly, and has never acted aggressively towards anyone."  Why on Earth would I want to muzzle such a sweet, good dog?

For starters, let's knock on wood, what if your dog is injured, and has to be rushed to the vet hospital? 

Or hit by a car, and you're not around and a good Samaritan steps in to help...The first and safest piece of advise in this situation is "muzzle the animal."  An animal in pain can and most likely will attempt to bite.  They are probably very afraid and will defend themselves in the only way Nature gave them, with their teeth.  If this frightened, painful dog has not been taught that a muzzle is a good thing, we are now adding to the stress--We must, to keep ourselves safe.

Speaking of vets, how does your dog feel about nail trims?  Some dogs are perfectly OK with it, but there are quite a few who are not.  For one reason or another, they have not been conditioned to accept this practice, so we hire vets and groomers to handle this.  Even if your dog is familiar with the staff, this sort of thing can fall under the "strangers doing weird things to me" category for some dogs; he may exhibit behaviors that point to a possible bite, so he will be muzzled--Again, for the safety of those handling him.  While this is a quick, and painless thing to add a muzzle, your dog may be further stressed by this piece of equipment if he doesn't understand what it is.

But what about the dog you see walking down the street in a basket muzzle?

Do you automatically assume it's because he is dangerous?
He may be, but it may mean he just needs more space.  I applaud the Human for recognizing that their dog may cause injury; perhaps he just really doesn't do well with other dogs, or maybe he has a history of snapping at people.  Either way, that basket on his dog is keeping him safe.

Sometimes, a good basket muzzle can be a way to help a very shy, nervous or anxious dog enjoy life.  I know, I know, hang with me here.  We see a dog in a basket, and we keep our own dogs away; we do not allow our children to approach; we avoid interaction, yes?  Because we assume the dog is mean...but keeping distance may be what that shy dog needs most, at that point in their rehabilitation.  The dog is out in the world.  Enjoying a walk, without being bothered by others.

Or maybe the muzzle is not for the dog at all.  Our natural avoidance of a dog in a muzzle may be helping the person walking the dog.  Perhaps that person suffers from anxiety, and can't handle interacting with other people.  The muzzle acts as a way to give that person a peaceful walk, alone.
See where I'm at?

There is absolutely no way to accurately guess why the dog is wearing a muzzle.  Sometimes it is there simply to prevent a dog from picking up and swallowing dangerous things. 

That muzzle may be saving him a trip to the ER for expensive surgery, and his people have conditioned him that a walk in a muzzle is a good time.

A well-fit muzzle can also assist in helping a dog play.  I read a great letter from a woman who muzzles her dog to prevent him from nipping the backs of the dogs he runs with.  She has a rather tall dog, and this stops his over-excitement from ruining a good play session.

Muzzles can be utilized as a training tool as well.  Please note, if your dog has had a history of starting a fight, or harming other dogs, work with a Professional.  When your dog is wearing a muzzle, he cannot defend himself.  If he is a fight-starter, working with a Professional to alleviate his stress and decrease his reactivity is vital.  Slapping a muzzle on him and turning him loose with other dogs is not fair.  It is a recipe for disaster, and some very expensive vet bills.

Cloth muzzles are meant for short-term wear, such as nail trims or other temporary restraint needs. 

Your dog cannot open his mouth to pant in this style of muzzle, and in excited states, this can lead to serious complications, and even death.  A freaked out dog in a cloth muzzle left home alone is no good.  If your dog is a chronic chewer, or eater of dangerous things, creating safe space to confine him to is a safer choice.  It is recommended not to leave a muzzled dog alone.  If you must leave your dog unattended and muzzled, please choose a custom-fit basket muzzle.  Again, not the best idea, but safer than a cloth muzzle in that scenario.  Your dog can potentially get his foot, or jaw caught on the muzzle and cause himself harm.

If you are considering a muzzle, please talk to your vet, or a good Dog Teacher.  While I believe all dogs should be comfortable in them, I also know they can be mis-used.  Using a muzzle appropriately, and knowing when it is just not necessary, is important to success.

When properly introduced, a muzzle quickly becomes something your dog looks forward to wearing.  I do not think every dog should be walked in a muzzle, I'm not a Tyrant...I'm just saying it may not mean that every dog you see in one is a "bad dog."

Suspicious Puppy

"Oh you think you're so tough!...."

How many times have you seen someone, (or been someone) with a puppy in their arms, who is growling, barking, and generally freaking out over the sight of another dog?  Or worse, a person who just entered the room?

This is not cute.

It is not something the puppy will just "grow out of..."

This is a fear-based response, that can grow into an ugly and hard to handle adult dog.

This is a necessary behavior for a baby canine to have.  If they weren't living in your comfy home, this response may indeed help keep them alive.  Posturing with hackles raised, towards things that make you nervous may cause the scary thing to retreat.  And if it works, the pup will repeat it.

So how do you help a wrongfully suspicious pup become a well-balanced and properly socialized adult?

*Do Not Make Light of It.
Stop saying things like "oh you think you're so tough."  Your pup does not think they are tough.  They are scared.

     A puppy that growls or barks when they see another dog, or person, should be told "No."  Following this, they should be turned away, or led away the opposite direction, so that they can no longer stare down the scary thing.  Not far, but just far enough to bring you to point number two...

*Use LOTS of Rewards.
Once you've corrected an inappropriate growling, get your cheese ready.  Get puppy focused on you and offer rewards just for looking at the scary thing without reacting.  Most puppies will sense your good mood when food is involved.  Bring a happy tone to your voice, and start saying dumb things..."Oh jeez, here's some cheese.  Can you see that brand new friend over there?  Here you go!  Good Puppy !  Oh my gosh, do you wan that person to five you some?  OH, you smelled friend's leg, good job! "

     Keep that verbal encouragement flowing so in the event that your pup doesn't take your cues, you can drop into that "No" and walk away very quickly.  It's all about paying your pup for what you want to see, and correcting for what isn't appropriate.

If your pup doesn't respond easily to this approach, contact a professional and get the individual help your dog may need.

*Please Don't Say "It's OK."
To a puppy, when we try to soothe with petting and a constant stream of "It's OK" while he's growling, we are sending him a clear message that we want to see more of this behavior.

     You wouldn't calm a 2 year old child who is hitting his sister by telling him "It's OK" while he continues to hit her.  Once you've stopped the unwanted behavior, that is when you can tell him "It's OK." See earlier article "When It's OK is Not" for a more in-depth discussion of this.

*Hang Out With Old Dogs.
A suspicious puppy can greatly benefit from being around well-mannered older dogs--No, the other dogs at your house do not count.  I am talking about forming relationships with strange dogs; making new friends.  Your pup will grow more comfortable around other dogs if exposed to some good personalities. 

Older dogs who know when enough is enough are vital to the social development of pups; can you imagine what children would be like without someone older around to say "that's a bad plan"?

*Dog Parks Are Not Always a Good Idea.
In an effort to get your pup around older dogs, a dog park might be a tempting, easy access place...However, this may be entirely too overwhelming for your naturally suspicious puppy.  As stated earlier, suspicious behaviors are fear-based; most fearful pups are a bit shy.

     Think about this:
     *You take her to the dog park.
     *She gets mobbed by adult and adolescent dogs who are not at all polite enough to realize she is a little unsure.
     *She runs.  They chase.
     *She begins to flop on her back and expose belly every time she's approached.
     *OR she starts bristling and showing fang when approached; she gives the occasional snap when another dog is trying to smell her/hump her/smash her to the ground...you think she's learning to stand up for herself, so you allow it.
     *She runs to you for help, but you think this play is fun, and she seems so eager to get in to the park when you arrive, so you bring her again.  And again.
     *You start to notice she is increasingly more vocal while on leash.  It seems she is reacting bigger and bigger anytime she sees another dog on a walk....

     On the Contrary:
     *You contact friends, or ask your vet if you can put a flyer up seeking play dates.
     *You take her to meet 2 or 3 older dogs, in a controlled setting, at someone's house, or in your yard.  You are close enough to help if things get too tense, and you can bring cheese!  Not to mention, you know these dogs are all vaccinated.
     *She freaks out a little (remember, leashes sometimes create more tension--but it's a good idea to go for a short walk together before you turn them loose in the yard).  The older dog either ignores her, or is experienced with pups and gently shows her that his intentions are to play, by bowing and dashing away from her.  She learns to chase, and to be chased without being afraid.
     *Suspicious puppy learns to wrestle correctly.  This means, sometimes she is the one pinning the older dog, and sometimes older dog has her pinned.  Proper play is an exchange; it should not be one-sided.  She is learning to chill out around other dogs.
     *Several of these visits, with different play partners and she now has the social skills necessary to perhaps handle a dog park.  Rover.com is a great way to find dogs to play with--a client of mine with an extremely fearful Weimaraner pup, found a Great Dane with good manners through Rover.com and now her dog has several friends.  Exposing her to one nice dog, who didn't chase her around trying to play too hard, showed her how to enjoy most dogs.

*Find a Good Puppy Group.
Just as we want her to learn good skills from older dogs, being able to socialize with kids her own age is important too.  Finding a well-run playgroup can help.  Talk to your vet, or your puppy class instructor to see what's available.  Remember, "well-run" means that nobody is allowing bullying or other poor behaviors to continue.  The instructor should be explaining why they break up certain play, and giving you tips on how to manage your particular pup, so you can help.  You do not want to attend a group where the instructor is sitting in a chair, telling you things like "they'll work it out," while two puppies smash your pup in a corner, or allow your pup to terrorize a smaller/weaker puppy.

*Take a Class.
Yup, I said it again.  Getting your dog into at least one basic class, sets you up for success for the rest of that dogs life.  He learns to pay attention to you when other dogs are present.  He learns other dogs close by are not scary, or worth growling at (your instructor should help teach you how to work the "leave it" if he is).  And he gets to meet more people.

When your pup is stiff and raising hackles; growling and maybe barking, ask yourself "Is this something I want my adult dog to do?"  It will be repeated unless you do something to change it. 

A suspicious puppy is actually one of my favorite personality types.  That is a pup with a thinking process; a common sense if you will.  It is your job, as that pup's guardian and caretaker, and teacher, to show them when suspicion is warranted, and when they need to just leave off. 

It is your canvass.  Paint a picture you can be proud of.

From House to Apartment: Helping a Stressed Dog Transition

Buckle Up, this is a long one.

Moving is stressful.  We feel it.  So do our pets.  Dogs who are suddenly not themselves, or acting out in creative, and sometimes destructive ways, are canines crying for help.  A dog who has been "perfect" most of her life, is suddenly tearing up the carpet and eating the blinds when you leave.  A once peaceful dog, now howls and barks every time she is left alone.  Your once friendly compadre is lunging at other dogs, and growling at strangers.

Sudden behavioral changes can be indicators that your dog is not handling things too well.  It can also be a red flag for medical conditions needing attention.  Resource Guarding (being "over-protective" of things, people or space) suddenly rearing its scary, fang filled face may not be your dog being bad...It may mean she isn't coping with these new living arrangements with grace, and is communicating this stress the only way she knows how.

While each case needs an individually catered approach, there are a few Universally safe things you can do to make things a little more stress-free for your furry friend.

Before undertaking any of the suggestions that will follow, please make sure your dog is healthy.  Check with your vet to be sure we have ruled out any medical reasons for these behavioral changes.  It isn't fair to expect an animal who isn't feeling well to suddenly "be nice," or "behave" if she isn't feeling good.  That's like my asking you to host a party with a headache.  Not cool.

Understand that Everything is Different.
Your dog is now experiencing having to share with many other people and dogs.  This can make a confident dog insecure.  It can cause a naturally fearful personality to suddenly lash out.  It can take a seemingly balanced animal, and make her very confused.  It can make you weird, basically.  She is trying to establish what now belongs to her in terms of territory--Did she have a big yard, perhaps acreage, and now you have a hallway?

She Can Hear Everything!
Sharing walls, and ceiling can put a dog on edge, if this is something she is not accustomed to.  The sounds of your neighbor walking to his fridge, or his pack-of-elephants kids might sound like a virtual nightmare to your dog.  Keep rewards handy.  Try playing with her, or otherwise engaging her mind, so she can begin to think those sounds are normal.  Don't fall in to the "it's ok" trap (see my other article "When It's Ok is Not" if she is barking excessively.

Go Back to Basics.

Bring treats of high value (think chicken and cheese) with you anytime you and your dog leave the apartment.  Make exploring her new shared space a happy, fun thing.  If she's in to toys, bring her favorite and play.  Keep this toy out of her reach while in the apartment.  Any time you see another person, or a dog, affect an aire of gladness--"oh look, Sasha!  Here comes another new friend! Here's some chicken for noticing our new friend, and more chicken because he has a dog!  Awesome!  Good Girl!  Chicken, nom, nom, nom..."  This really helps!

If the sight of another dog, or person, causes her to lunge and /or bark, contact a good Teacher to show you how to help her get over that reaction.  Pro Tip:  The very moment she notices that approaching dog, is the moment you tell her "Good Girl," and offer a piece of chicken, as you turn to walk the other way.  Do not offer food if she has crossed 'above threshold' and is in to the lunge or bark.

Are There Too Many New People in Her Life?
If your new situation has suddenly expanded your Human Pack, your dog may be feeling a little lost.  Our dogs depend on us for pack stability, and order within that pack.  Try to include these new Humans in your dog's routine a little.  Invite them to go for a walk with you two, or have someone else give her a meal.  Learning a new trick together can be an immensely bonding experience; perhaps a copy of '101 Dog Tricks' by Kyra Sundance is in your future?

Does Your Dog Have Alone Time/Space?
Even if your dog has known the new pack members for years, living with them on a day-to-day basis can be tough.  Your dog needs breaks from this chaos.  Make sure your dog has a place where no one is allowed to bother her.  My dogs know that if they have chosen to lay on a dog bed (rather than a couch) they will be left alone.  We may talk to them "good boy, thank you" but we do not invade their personal space.  If  you have a velcro-dog personality, this may be tough, so you might need to work on teaching a good Down and Stay before your dog can enjoy the peach and quiet of her bed.  I have available beds on every floor of the house, so they can get peace and quiet, and still be "with me" if they feel the need.

Preferably, this alone time can be in another room.  If you feel your dog is too stressed by trying to be with you among all the other family members, put her in another room, with something to do--a stuffed Kong, or an alternate safe, tasty chew.  A crate is ok, but only if your dog is familiar and friendly with her crate.

Help Her Turn Off.
If she has developed resource guarding tendencies, or seems just obsessed with waiting at the windows for something to bark at, let's remove these things.
Pick up her food dish when it is not meal time (free feeding is not really the best of plans anyway), and put her toys somewhere else.  Should the window be our 'trigger' for tension, try putting some waxed-paper on the lower portion, so the light gets in, but she won't be able to see as much.  Or close the blinds.

Contact a good Teacher who can help show you how to eliminate these behaviors.  Closing the blinds, or removing the dish may help her relax in the moment (and she needs this), but long-term, these are detrimental levels of stress that can, and should be worked through.

Help Her Relax.
Much like dealing with Separation Anxiety, there are some medications (vet prescribed) that can help her cope.  These may, or may not, be long-term solutions, but opening a dialog with your Veterinarian is a good plan.  They can help you determine if chemically altering the neuro-process of your dog's brain is a viable option.  If medication is not necessary, there are some natural, or non-chemical ways you can go at this.

Lavender:  Yup.  The very same scent spas use to chill us out, can also help soothe your pup's ragged nerves.  You may think about adding a little of this essential oil to a cotton ball (remember, dog's noses are VERY sensitive--one drop may be enough) and put it into a diffuser ball hung from her collar.  Etsy has some adorable options for this!  You can also look in to an essential oil diffuser; these little, affordable, plug-in units look beautiful, and turn the oil and water in to a mist that just diffuses the scent in to the air.

NOTE OF WARNING!!!!!  Many essential oils are FATALLY TOXIC)

Calming Pheromones:  Products such as Adaptil, utilize synthetic pheromone technology to mimic the calming effects a nursing dog has on her pups.  This can have an amazing effect on some stressed-out dogs.  They come in sprays (added to dog's bedding/favorite areas; not the dog herself), plug-in diffuser units, and collars.  The collars are cool because this means it goes wherever your dog does.

The Good Ol' Anxiety Wrap, or Thundershirt:  K, here's the thing; this is either going to be the best fifty dollars you ever spend, or do absolutely nothing.  I feel like they are worth a try.  They work on the principles of pressure applied to acupressure points on your dog's body.  When this pressure is applied, the canine system begins to release relaxing endorphins that can alleviate anxiety responses.  I have personally witnessed both miracles, and nothing happening.  The success of the shirt depends on where the anxiety stems from, what is creating it, and if it is a true anxious response, or something needing medical attention.

I once put one on The Most strung-out-hyper Beagle mix I'd ever met (one of the most active dogs I've ever worked with, period ).  Her owner thought she was just a hyper dog--Extremely out-going, very friendly, just a go go go all the time gal.  Add Thundershirt, and she literally stopped gasp-panting and flipping her head from one view to the next, slowed to a walk, laid down and with a relaxed sigh, closed her mouth and began to actually look at her world for the first time in her life.  It was magical.  As though she wasn't on fast-forward anymore.

Homeopathic Remedies.
Also a consideration, as they can be used along with most prescribed medications, or on their own.  Bach's Rescue Remedy for Pets, or Homeopet's Anxiety Relief Drops can be wonderful!  I pesonally use the Homeopet Anxiety Relief Drops for my big ol' scaredy guy.  When we first adopted him, he was getting his recommended dose four times a day.  Now, as with his Thundershirt, we only give them about an hour before anticipated anxiety causing events.

These are somewhat akin to having a relaxing cup of tea; not a heavy drug, not a fix-all.  But a method to help him cope with stressors a little bit better.  Speaking of tea, adding a bit of Chamomile tea to your dog's water bowl might also help.  Not too much, as they tend to avoid the bowl if it is too concentrated.  If you are unsure of how much is a good idea, call your vet.  In this scenario, I'm assuming your vet is as on board with Natural Remedies as mine is :)

Above all, if you have a dog who is used to a lot of space, and physical outside time, making up for it with lots of walks and extra play time is very important.  A dog who suddenly finds herself kept in the not-so-great indoors may act out more often.  Exercise can be a sort of "magic bullet" in the search for a balanced, happy dog.  A tired dog is a happy dog--and no, I do not think it's a good idea to drive your dog to exhaustion just so you can have some peace and quiet.  Making sure your pup gets her physical needs met, as well as her mental requirements, are really the best ways to help her get over, and get in to this new life.

Lots of play, puzzle toys, busy feeders, hiring a dog walker (should you be unable to walk her yourself), or driving her to new parks to sniff are important tools.  Speaking of which, it is time for me to spend some time with my own pups.  Thanks for sticking in there and reading this rather long article.  The more I thought about it, the more complex I realized this really was.  It isn't as simple as Do this and Voila!  Fixed Dog!  Even with this discussion, I haven't completely covered all the ways your dog can act out behaviorally, in response to a sudden, extreme living situation change.  So I will close with something familiar...

If you haven't found a "fix," please call your vet and ask for help, both in what to do, and for a list of qualified Teachers (you may know them as "trainers") in your area.

Reactive Dogs: No More Excuses.

What a beautiful day!  The sun in shining, it is the perfect temperature, the hike is wonderful, and both our dogs are such gentlemen.  What is this approaching from the other direction...?

At the very end of a retractable leash, is a woman holding tight (still not safe) and calling out "He's not vicious!  He just has a little problem on a leash!"  Meanwhile, our "not vicious" friend is choking himself out, and broadcasting the sort of bark that makes it clear to both our dogs that he's not kidding.  So clear, in fact, that they are practicing social avoidance and looking away from him; walking politely on the off side of us as we ignore this fiasco and continue on.

"He's not vicious..."

"She's better off lead..."

"They are actually friendly.  They just hate the leash..."

"Shhhh...it's ok...it's ok..."

"He's usually OK once he says hi..."

"OH!  She is SO excited!..."

"He just wants to play!..."

If you, or any of your friends and family have ever uttered any of these things, as an excuse for your dog's behavior towards another dog while on a leash, Stop It.

Clearly he is not OK.  He obviously is having a "vicious" reaction to the sight of my dog, and I think you are being naive and wallowing in denial.  Your dog is a liability, no matter what size or type.  Your dog is one slipped collar, dropped leash, or broken retractable away from disaster.

This "vicious" reaction is a sign of distress.  It most likely stems from an initial fear of other dogs, or social situations. 

"Ah crap...Mom, do you have ANY idea how many scary dogs are out there???"

Perhaps he has had interactions with other dogs while on leash, that have led him to believe that he cannot defend himself, or retreat as he normally would without it. Your dog was poorly socialized, or traumatically socialized (think dog park, or poorly managed puppy play groups), and now has figured out that if he loses his mind when he sees a dog, he gets what he wants:  You drag him out of sight, or I step out of sight.  In either case, your dog no longer has to deal with what he perceives as a threatening situation.

The other, and most important in my opinion, piece of that problem is that you keep making excuses for him.  Stop doing this.  Apologize.

The handler/owner who says "No" to his dog, and then calls "I'm sorry" to me, is the owner who is already on the way to helping that dog recover. 

I realize that if you have a dog who is reactive, telling her "no" is not enough.  There is a road to rehab that may be very long ahead of you, should you decide to help her get better.  Making it clear to your dog that her reaction displeases you is step three.

Step One is to convince your dog that the sight of another dog is the best thing to ever happen in your life.  That means, you have to begin building some foundation behaviors first.  Teaching your dog a fantastic 'Leave It' in the confines and comforts of your home, where no other dogs can freak her out is key.  Leave It should be the most positive, wonderful, fun game your dog has ever heard of.  A good Leave It is basically saying "please stop looking at that thing," whatever that might be.  It can also be useful for teaching a pup not to pick things up off the ground, or to help your ham sandwich from winding up as dog food.  Not sure how to go about teaching this?  Talk to a good Teacher.  If they say anything about hitting, shocking, "tapping" your dog's nose, or making scary sounds to 'teach' this Leave It, please, go talk to a better Teacher.

Should you not have the financial means to hire a good Teacher, check out Dr. Sophia Yin's Strategies for Focus Exercises.  These are Necessary Skills, and you can look them up FOR FREE.  You may still need help, but at least you can get started.

Step Two:  Wrap your head and heart around the idea that your dog may never really like other dogs.  You know how Grandpa grumbles and complains about Everyone, all the time?  (Gran Turino...anyone?)  He doesn't like people.  He's not comfortable interacting with strangers, he has his space and his routine, and that's OK.  He's not getting in to fights, or screaming at everyone he passes; he prefers to ignore them.  My point is, your dog does not have to become a social butterfly in order to be a civil, well-behaved member of society.  What we are going for, is the ability to pass another dog on the street, without exploding.

Accept your dog for who they are.  Teach them alternative behaviors, and work slowly up to changing the intensity of the distractions, and you may find them willing to at least try to make a friend they tolerate...Or one they even love.  Some dogs truly are uncomfortable in mass social settings, and that's OK.

What's not OK is to allow them to live in constant fear and anger, because You keep making excuses.

ummm, not what I meant by Heel little guy...

Puppy Biting

No, you didn't adopt a furry shark...well, maybe....

The good news is that This IS a Phase, and if handled correctly, it is something your dog will most likely grow out of.

I say "most likely," because there are certain breeds that are prone to use their mouths as a way to say "I love you."  These dogs may always want to put their mouths on you, in gentle ways, not actually biting.   German Shepherds are notorious for this; mouthing at your forearms with sweet squeezes when saying hello.  I've met a couple Labs who've done this, and the oddball Pointer, but what we are addressing today is not a polite exchange.  We are talking about that obnoxious stage where that little furball jerk is all pointy needle teeth, and chewing on your fingers, hands, ears, toes and whatever else he can stab those death-daggers in to.

Unless your pup is spending unsupervised time alone with young children who do not understand how to properly handle a puppy, this is a natural behavior primarily driven by teething.  This means they are looking for relief from the discomfort caused by losing their baby teeth, and replacing them with adult chompers.

This is also a very exploratory phase behaviorally.  Most puppies frankly do not get to spend enough time with their siblings, or their mother, to develop what we call bite inhibition:  Figuring out what pressure is "Too Hard" with their mouths.  It is a skill best learned practicing on brother and sister, instead of your soft, tender Human flesh. 

When a puppy of 8 weeks old (the standard for "old enough to go to a new home," but should you pick up a pet store pup, beware that they may have been removed even earlier, so that when they arrive at the store they are 8 weeks) is removed from his litter-mates, he is still in infancy.  The next four to six weeks is when I get most of the "He Bites!" complaints.  That is due to his jumping from an infant-like stage, to that of an 8 or 10 year old boy.  How much physical damage does a baby cause to those holding him?  How much trouble can a curious, playful, strong, independent 10 year old boy cause, or get in to by accident?  Exactly.

A puppy of 12 to 14 weeks of age wants to play!! Explore!! Bite!!! Chase!!! Everything exciting and fun to a puppy this age, will be repeated.  Biting you is suddenly an exciting game.  Can you imagine the difference it might make, if that same puppy had spent those few extra weeks chomping on siblings, and learning what "too much" was, before they made their way to your home?

A slightly older puppy is "ripe" for training.  That is not to say that you cannot teach an 8 week old puppy some really great things, it just makes everything easier.  They can be less prone to some of the fears that can lead to later behavioral issues (providing they came from a good environment).  They have learned bite inhibition to a greater degree, and more readily take to the ideas presented by you.  Not to mention, you may also have a more solid idea of his personality at 12 weeks old, vs. when he was a stumbling, sweet little 8 week old.

But I got on a tangent there....
How do you stop the little monster from biting?

1.  Offer Appropriate Alternatives---A lot of them.
Keeping a variety of appropriate chew toys (not soft stuffed animals, soft ropes, etc) around for the little dude is VERY important.  As your puppy grows, they will change their tastes and desires for different textures, and flavors.  Finding a variety of stuff for them to chew will help avoid things like destroyed window-sills, or torn up carpet.

Toys such as Nylabone (make sure you are matching your puppy to the right level of "chew") or Benebone come in a wide variety of shapes, flavors and textures.  The original Kong, when stuffed with some puppy food that has been soaked in water (or chicken broth) 'til the kibble swells, then frozen inside, can be a great way to exercise those jaws.  Try to avoid rawhide--it doesn't break down in the gut properly and can lead to blockage or tummy upset.  PetStages makes some incredible puppy chew toys. Talk to your vet or qualified professional to get some other great ideas.

This person is PREPARED !  This is a Kong Stuffing Station like I've never seen.  Lots of Kongs, pre-made stuffing in the bag, alternatives to mix in to the stuffing, different versions of treat dispensing toys...yeah, this person has a busy dog who is NOT chewing the furniture, or carpet, or hands, or shoes....

Always keep an appropriate chew in your pocket, or just within reach.  Every time he starts to put his mouth on you, (this includes clothes) say "no" in a calm but firm voice, then offer the alternative.  Encourage and entice the pup to put that in his mouth instead.

2.  Remember to tell him "no," "gentle," or "no biting" in calm, lower, serious tones, whenever he begins to chew on you.  
No need to yell at the puppy, it won't work in the long run.  If you present the idea that you are not stable, by yelling or overreacting, you are setting yourself up as "not the leader" in that puppy's opinion.  Leaders are in control.

Immediately after telling him "no," offer one of those alternatives.

There is a train of thought out there, that says you should "yelp like a puppy" or exclaim "OW!" in a loud voice when the pup bites, and then walk away from him.  While I'm OK with the walking away part, (he will most likely chase you and grab your pants or shoes, but whatever)

I disagree with sounding like a wounded prey animal when your dog bites you.  This reaction, I have found, can exacerbate your pup's already excited state, and perhaps make him even more keen on tackling and chewing on you.

This is why puppies Looooove to bite kids.  They cannot help but shriek, jump or jerk around and otherwise make it really and truly fun to bite. 

3.  Do Not Encourage Wrestling Games. 
Getting on the floor and communicating that it is ok for your puppy to treat you like another puppy is a sure way to invite them to inappropriately use their mouths. 

4.  Apply some kind of chew deterrent to your skin and clothing. 
This doesn't work for all dogs, but a majority of them find products like Bitter Apple, Phooey, or plain ol' White Vinegar to taste gross.  You can spray this on the back on one hand and forearm, keeping your fingers and palms free of this yucky taste.  When the pup begins to teeth on you, simply and calmly say "no," and offer the yucky tasting part of you to the puppy.  It is a nice, gentle, passive way to teach them that they don't want to chew on Humans because we taste gross.

Immediately offer that alternative chew after making your point.

5.  Offer Ice.  
For some puppies, the pain of teething is such that you may get days when you cannot touch him without him chewing on you.  If you are there to supervise, you can help him get some cold, numbing relief from this discomfort by offering ice, or toys that have been frozen.  I like to freeze the Whimzeez Dental Chews for this.  They are a natural, vegetable based dental chew, which makes them gentle on the tummy.  If you go this route, choose a size that looks 'too big' for the pup, so you can observe to make sure they aren't getting large chunks off to swallow, posing choking hazards.  This can be done with frozen carrots, or long slices of sweet potato too.

6.  Do Not leave puppy unattended with children. 
I had an 11 week old Beagle in a group class once.  We were doing some off-leash playtime, and he was intent on bothering a much smaller puppy, so I picked him up, via hands around his rib cage, to redirect him.  What resulted was a snarling, snapping, growling, angry little guy.  I gently held him 'til he relaxed, and as I set him down (as reward for calming down) I asked Mom and Dad, "How old are your kids?"  They were shocked, because they had not mentioned they had any. 

Even the sweetest children can be accidentally cruel. 

Not knowing how to respect a puppy, or how to properly pick up a puppy, can result in hurt, which can cause a pup to bite out of desperation.  This can become a bad habit of learning very quickly that the fastest way to 'get free' is to bite...hard.  For the future of your puppy growing up to be a tolerant, patient and trustworthy "kid-dog," please make sure you are supervising interactions with kids.  That way, you are the reasoning and in-control Adult who can help both parties learn to be kind to one another.

7.  It is OK to use Time Out.

Both the toys seen are Nylabone. 

Let's say you have already given the puppy everything he needs, tried Ice, given toys, exercised him, etc, and he still thinks you are more fun to bite.  Totally OK to give him a time out in his kennel or puppy pen.  We all need a break sometimes, and a puppy running on Tilt is no exception.  Just like a tired little kid, he may just need a nap.  This is not a punishment, so make sure he has something to chew on in there that is 'crate-safe,' but give yourself a break.  I do not mean it is OK to stick him in the crate for hours just because you can't handle yourself; I mean a 30-45 min nap would do everyone some good. 

8.  Try not to use "ol' school" methods. 
Without describing them, I will just say that if the "bite fix" method involves striking, or causing him pain, you may be setting yourself up for a true attack later.  There are pups out there that only see this approach as a challenge, and will one day retaliate...Usually after they are much, much faster than you. 

If you are still struggling with it, or you think your pup's biting has an aggressive edge to it, call a professional.  Talk to your Vet, ask about finding a good Teacher, and get some help.  Check out ASPCA's website, or get a book by Dr. Sophia Yin.  You are not alone in fixing this.  This list is also not a 'one-size-fits-all' thing.  Most pups can stop biting and chewing using these methods, but you may have a special case that needs an individual approach.  So don't be afraid to ask. 

We are here for You.

p.s.  Don't leave the pup alone with the kids :)

Too Much Training?

Is there such a thing as Too Much Training?  In a word, yes.

We all want our dogs to be civil, loving, easy to handle members of our family.  To act like gentlemen and ladies when they are in public, and to be seen as "well trained" by those who pass us by.  If we are using our "big, reasoning human brains," (thank you Zac George for that turn of phrase) we have made the decision to enroll our new dog in some kind of class, or hired a private instructor to come to the house.  We start to make progress, but it feels slow.  It doesn't feel "all encompassing," or the Teacher we hired doesn't show us the "fun stuff."  So, being the curious species we are, we start looking at what else is out there; what else we can get involved in.  We are doing Simple Obedience, what about Agility, I heard that's fun.  Or how about Nosework?  Tricks?  Rally?  Protection?  Conformation? 

Wanting to do all of these things is Great.  I encourage you to do so, but please, for your dog's sake, Not All At Once.

The thing about taking multiple classes are the Instructors.  Trainers are a lot like Hair Stylists:  We may all be cutting hair, but we all do things just a little bit differently.  This becomes VERY confusing for your dog.  This confusion can lead to what may look like a lack of cognition, or stubborness.  Outright refusal to do what you ask may not be a stubborn dog at all, but a confused animal who can't speak the language.

Take something simple, like teaching a "Sit."  One Teacher may ask you to hold a piece of food in front of your dog's nose, and slowly use it as a lure, to cause him to raise his nose and follow it back over his head a bit.  This causes his butt to go down in to a Sit position, and then you give him the treat.

Another might suggest you hold a treat in your closed fist, a bit above the dog's head out of reach, with your arm extended straight in front of you.  Say "Sit," then patiently wait for the dog to stop jumping, rearing like a pony or otherwise trying to investigate your hand.  As he looks up at your hand, he may sit.  When this happens, you say "Good" and give him the reward.

Here comes somebody who shows you to position the collar just behind his ears, and apply upwards pressure (slowly choking him) to his leash, while you press down on his butt.  Thus creating leverage so he begins to go in to the sit position.  Release of pressure happens as he begins to drop his haunches, reapply this pressure should he begin to stand.

Still another comes 'round and tells you to simply wait 'til the dog sits all by himself at some point.  When he finally does, you are to repeat "Good Sit" over and over again while you reward him.  Then ignore him again and repeat this process a few times.  Once he is offering this behavior to get the reward, and you think he is starting to understand that butt on the ground equals food, you can then experiment by asking him to "Sit" when he is standing, and see if he puts it together, thereby making it a cue, and not just free food for a randomly offered behavior.

Oh and then there's using a clicker to get the behavior on cue.....

You see?  So many different ways are out there to teach even the simplest of things, that there are bound to be enough inconsistencies to create confusion in your dog.  I am not saying don't take these classes.  I want you to.  Just take them one at a time, unless they are all from the same Instructor.  That way, if you do encounter a Teacher who is using a different approach, your dog will have time to adapt to this change, and succeed.  They are extremely capable of learning different styles, and cues, but it must come at a speed they can handle.

Think of it as though you were trying to learn two different languages at the same time (and yes, I know, some of us out there are AMAZING humans who actually can do this...I speak to the majority here).  On Mondays, you attend Russian class, and Wednesdays, you go to a Mandarin hour.  You may recognize some of the gestures and tones that those two instructors have, but they are so very different, it may be near impossible to be successful.  Keeping up with the rest of the class in both languages may be more of a challenge, and you may find yourself falling behind and feeling frustrated.

My Retractable Leash Experiment

I know the lot of you have heard me say over and over, that, for the most part, I do not think there are many places where a retractable leash is a good tool.  Yes, there are certain applications that it can be helpful in, but not, in my opinion, for every day walking of your dog.

That said, I bought one.

My larger dog has recently been diagnosed with a condition that we are now asked to "keep him to a dull roar" for the rest of his life.  Our vet has encouraged us to take him places, in a very limited fashion.  I asked about taking him on a car-camping trip, because that sort of excursion is Big Dog's 'happy place,' and the vet said "Sure.  But keep him tied up."  So I bought a retractable tape-leash to minimize the tangled mess that a traditional tie-out can become.

As a couple weeks went by, and I looked at that leash sitting under the table by the front door, I got curious.  I mean, as a Teacher, I coach my students about all the reasons why you probably shouldn't be using those to walk your dog.  As a Human, I thought "What if not paying as much attention to my dog on a walk might actually be relaxing?"  I've had this thought before.  I just want to stop being a "trainer" for a minute, and become like every one else in my neighborhood: Let my dog do what he wants.  Let him sniff all over.  Pee on everything.  Wander a little too far.  He's a good dog.  I've taught him his manners and then some.  What's the harm?

I call Little Dog, and hook up his harness (which, by the way, is a graduation--he began his training process 6 years ago, and has earned the right to wear a body harness, because he listens, and can be trusted), and snapped the retractable to it.  "ok buddy, let's see what the obsession is about, yes?"

Here is what I discovered:

He didn't like the feeling of the constant, but small tugging pressure on the leash.  I have worked hard to teach him not to pull, and when he felt the leash's tension, he would slow his steps, or look up at me to question what he may be doing incorrectly.

After some encouragement, he started to figure out that he could linger longer at smelling points, and just wait for the end of the leash to pull him forward to catch up to me.  This meant I was now 16 feet away from my dog, not at all knowing what he was doing, or what he was attempting to eat/smell/roll in.  Not to mention the few times I glanced back and found him off the sidewalk, nose down to some scent, in the street.

When we arrived at the park, and started to see other dogs, I was annoyed at myself at just how little control I felt like I had using this leash.  It is awkward in my hand, and while the lock seems to be working now, I feel like yeah, that could fail me at any time; or I could drop this whole thing and it would be a loud plastic thing retracting towards my dog, possibly causing him to run.  Every time I "locked" it to either pull him back to me, or shorten him up so he couldn't reach something, I was feeling frustrated.  So was my dog.  He is used to taking guidance from me on our walks, and here I am saying "make your own choices while on a leash."  I could actually see him slipping in to what I like to refer to as "a**hole mode."

This is a problem for a lot of dogs in our world, actually.  Without proper leadership, they try to be their own bosses, and this causes anxiety.  This heightened state of mind, this stress, can cause some dogs to become reactive.  Little Dog used to want to fight anything on four legs.  As I'm observing, I see him snap to attention at the sight of an approaching dog.  His ears are forward.  His stare direct.  His hackles creep like a slow-motion mohawk from his shoulders to his tail.  He begins to whine.  He is looking for a fight.

I tell him to leave it, call him off to the side, have him lay down in the grass for some belly rubs and scratchin's, and we wait for the other dog to leave.  We head home.  I lock the leash at approximately five feet long, ask him to Watch Me, and we Heel almost all the way home.  By the time we've gotten to our cul-de-sac, he is relaxed, wagging his tail and no longer anxious or concerned about the things on his walk.  He needs the structure in order to feel good.

That is not to say that I require him to pay attention every time I walk him.  He has earned the right to sniff and lag, and even to walk in front of me.  What he has earned, he respects.  On an six foot lead (which is what I usually walk him on) he is close enough that he is paying attention to me, and I to him.  I talk to him.  I can see what he is smelling, and tell him NOT to eat the things he would like to--STILL wants to snack on cat poop!!!!  There is something disgustingly funny about watching him reluctantly drop a chunk of feces and walk guiltily away from it.

The retractable leash no longer calls to me as I walk out my front door.