Do's of Prong Collar Use

In the past few months, the question of the prong collar has come to the forefront of my Teacher ears.  There is precious little one can find about how to properly use this Tool.

In this two-part posting, we will go over the Do's and Don't of Prong Collar use.  And while I know my all positive reinforcement trainer friends will disagree, I do see a time and a place for this Tool.  The other thing I see, is a lack of education for those who do choose this as their training method....It is my intention to help.  With more education, fewer dogs are likely to be hurt by this strong Tool. 

Part 1:  The Do's of Prong Collar Use

Do:  Make certain your dog has the right personality for this tool.  

Most “aggressive” responses you may see, are driven by fear.  A need to protect you, or themselves, can cause a dog to lunge, bark, growl or otherwise attempt to engage negatively with other dogs or people. DO NOT use a prong collar on a fearful animal. It is also ill-advised to use this Tool as a "fix" for aggressive animals.

That being said, the type of personality that does well with this kind of Tool, is that of the "frat-kid" variety: The good-natured, but rambunctious, strong dog. This is a nice dog, but not a fearful, or sensitive dog. He is not suspicious. He is bold. He is eternally playful. He has absolutely no concept of his own strength, size or the frailty of those around him. He is not striving for leadership status, nor is he a "super-sub." In short, he is a well-balanced canine emotionally, with little to no physical control over his actions. Think, 90 lb dog who just LOVES every minute of his life!!!

There is a reason this Tool is still employed in military-style (or traditional) dog training, but it does not belong on most of the dogs who wear them. This should not be your first 'go-to' Tool.

If you are unsure if your dog has the right, solid personality for this Tool, contact a good Teacher who can help.

Do:  Be certain to have the correct fit, and gauge on the collar links.  

Whether you are using a plastic prong, or metal prong collar, correct fit is paramount to proper control.  You can use one, regular leash, and clip the leash to the prong “mushroom” and the slip collar ring, but if you can find a double clipped leash (like the one on the dog in the picture below) or even put a carabiner clip on your regular leash handle and create a double ended leash, that would be best.  Notice the positioning of both collars on the dog in the below picture...the prong is high on the neck, below the ears, and is snug, but not tight, so that when you issue a correction, you are not using a lot of force; if you feel like it takes all of your strength to “correct,” this may not be the proper Tool for your dog.  Or is is the wrong fit/gauge.

Do:  Use a safety collar.  

While they may look and feel very solid, the links on a metal prong collar can sometimes come apart.  

Your safety collar is worn with the prong collar.  Its entire function is to keep your dog attached to your leash, should the links on the prong come apart.  If you are not using a safety backup, you run a risk of having your dog become free and chase down the thing you were trying to prevent him reaching.

The slip collar is large and loose enough to ride low on the neck (the prong sits high and snug, but not too tight.  This gives you the ability to correct quickly, without much force).  Your safety collar is ONLY a backup plan, so when you correct with the prong, the slip actually does nothing to the dog:  It literally is like a seat-belt in a car; sits there until needed.

Do:  Reward and Praise Heavily when your dog is doing the right thing.  

Prong collars hurt.  That’s the point. If you are choosing this as your Tool, you simply MUST start telling  your dog what a Good Boy he is, when he is doing the right thing. You have to talk to your dog, be your dog’s support and cheerleader.  Amp up your Positive space by adding treats (if your dog is not allergic) or pieces of chicken.  You have to help your dog understand when he is in the right, or he may develop aversion to your walks, and begin to distrust his relationship with  you.

Do:  Issue proper ‘snap’ or ‘pop’ correction.

The correction should be firm, but also very quick.  If you are not quick, it becomes a pull or a tug, which can desensitize your dog to the discomfort of the collar, and make it ineffective.  Constant tension on the collar (as in, you still feel the dog is attempting to pull, or you are wrapping the leash up so it is very short) does nothing to teach the dog, except where the end of the leash is.  A dog will continue to lean on a prong, if they are allowed to.

Do:  Start with a strong correction.  

You never want your dog to feel comfortable with the way the ‘pop’ or ‘snap’ feels.  Creating respect (and yes, a bit of fear) for that correction, creates a dog who won’t need the heavy snap in the future.

Do:  Go the other way.

Breaking your dog's focus on whatever is causing him to pull is vital.  Moving away will help avoid creating aggressive response. Do lots of direction changes.  

There are some “trainers” out there who will allow a dog to stare at something they are reacting to, and give light taps to the leash/prong combo, with slow increases in intensity, until the dog finally notices or you yank him hard enough to yelp and want to move away--This is bad advice.  

Doing so will allow  your dog to really learn to dislike the thing that is making him upset.  This is how police and military dogs are taught to lunge and react strongly to the ‘bad guy.’   Basically, your dog is staring at something, he feels the correction, but it is not enough to break his focus; as you stand there adding more and more force to the ‘pop,’ your dog is getting plenty of feedback that the thing approaching is scary and bad, and makes you very upset.  Therefore, most dogs will pile on the aggressive response because you have let them believe that they should do so.

A “pop,” and a direction change (so the dog is no longer looking directly at the upsetting situation), and immediate rewards for going the other way, instead of engaging, tells your dog two things--

1.  Looking at things is fine.  My handler gets happy when they see other dogs/people/bicycles whatever.  And if I am looking, but not reacting, I get rewards and praises.

2. if I lunge or react in a negative way, there is a strong correction, and we are leaving.  When I keep myself under control, chicken and praises rain from the sky.

Do:  Keep your corrections mechanical.

Your dog must learn that leash tension is what creates the discomfort, not you getting mad, or tense.  When we correct, you can say a simple “no,” as the ‘pop’ is happening, if you feel the need to say something.  The moment after the correction, you must affect an aire of good nature. If you cannot correct without emotions behind it, find a different Tool.

Again, if you are using all your force to ‘pop’ the dog, or your feel yourself becoming frustrated, stop.  Evaluate what is triggering the dog, and if the current style of re-direction, or correction is not working, find a different way.  

Showing your dog what is right, vs what is undesirable behaviorally is important in helping them choose to remain under control.  If you are emotionally unstable, your dog will feel as though he needs to take care of the situations around you, and thus, react.

Do:  Give your dog a job, such as Sit, when you come to a stop.  

If you are using a prong, it is training time.  It is not pull you around peeing on bushes, or sniffing in the grass time.  Allow for breaks when you are on a walk, but only when You give the dog permission.  If you want to truly train your dog in this fashion, you cannot be a grey area: It either Is or Is not for a dog.  

Sniff time does not equal pull time.  As you allow your dog to sniff or pee on things, follow him so that the leash is loose.  Remember, we are teaching him to always have a relaxed leash, so as much as possible, follow  him when you allow breaks. Should your dog immediately begin to pull you when you allow this, issue a ‘pop’ but do not reel him back to your side, instead, go the other way.

After you have given your dog a break, and allowed some sniffing to happen, give your dog a clear signal that it is time to focus and walk again.  “Rugar, with me,” or “Rugar, let’s go,” are good ways to let him know that the sniff time is over. Dogs need direction all the time, when they are first learning a skill, if you are inconsistent, plan on your training time to take longer, and for  your dog to constantly be “testing” to see what they can get away with. Set those boundaries and stick to them.

Kid Questions

Recently, I was asked some Wonderful questions by a 5th grade student doing a project on Canine Behavior.  Her questions were so awesome, I thought I would share this exchange with you all.  Hope you can glean some helpful stuff from this :)

 * how can you tell when dogs are sad or mad?

Dogs show their emotions in many different ways.  Much like us, some dogs will act "sad" or "depressed" by wanting to be alone.  Sometimes, they may show little to no interest in the activities they usually enjoy, such as playing with a ball, or going for a walk.  The tricky part is that these symptoms can also be an indication that the dog is not feeling well.  This is why we recommend talking to your vet if you think your dog is acting depressed; sometimes this can mean they are sick or hurting somewhere.  Scientists have proven that dogs experience feelings of loss, and grieve like we do if they lose a friend. 

A dog that is "mad," or upset will demonstrate in different ways as well.  Stiff body postures (head up, ears perked, tail stiff, staring intently) or vocalizations (growling, snarling, showing their teeth in a menacing way--showing teeth can also mean that a dog is trying to be Super Submissive, it just depends on the dog) can be a good way to tell if a dog is upset.  Most dogs who are demonstrating in these ways may actually be very frightened, and are trying their best to make the scary thing, or situation go away.  

Nature gives most animals the instinct to either choose Fight or Flight (to run away) in scary situations; a dog may have reacted by barking or growling to something that made them nervous, and it worked to make the thing go away, so the dog will most likely repeat this behavior. Especially if moving away from the situation is not an option.  Over time, if the dog is subjected to things that make them nervous over and over, without proper re-direction or counter-conditioning, the dog's emotional response will begin to change.  What may have started as a fear-response, can become actual aggression.

* What does it mean when dogs start barking randomly?

Ha Ha! This is a great question!  Most dogs are never barking randomly.  The canine sensory system is so much more sensitive than ours.  They are aware of SO many sounds, sights and smells that we do not notice.  What seems like a random sound, may be motivated by something they heard, or smelled.  

Some dogs do bark because of boredom.  Not getting the mental or physical stimulation they need can lead to chronic barking, simply because the dog is looking for something to do.  This is why it is so important to teach your dog tricks and take them places.  You'd get bored if you never left the house, and the same is true for dogs.  Playing with your dog is a great way to avoid a bored dog.  Play is such an important part of canine behavior! 

 *How can you tell dogs are trying to protect you?

A dog that is trying to protect you will usually put themselves between you and whatever it is they perceive as a threat.  Some dogs have an over-blown or highly-sensitive sense of protection, and try to protect their pack (you or your family members) from just about everything.  Some dogs are very subtle (not very obvious) in their attempts to protect you, and don't bark or growl, but will certainly stand in front of their favorite humans, or stuff.

Some dogs will also try to protect themselves, or their pack, if they are nervous, or scared of things/people/other dogs.  This is usually because the dog has either had a traumatic experience, or a lack of exposure (socialization) to the world around them, and just do not understand that they don't have to be afraid.  Getting these dogs in to a class, or working with a trainer is a good idea for these dogs.  It can change how they feel about the world, and may help them to relax and not feel like they have to be so protective.

* What does the dogs ear movements mean?

Again, this greatly depends on the dog, but most dogs will prick their ears forward (yes, even dogs with floppy ears) when they are alert, or excited, or defensive.  You have to look at the rest of the dog's body to really tell if those ears mean something you may want to be careful about.

Tucking the ears close to the head, can be submission, fear or an indication that the dog is uncomfortable.  They are trying to look smaller, and less threatening by flattening their ears to their head.

A dog with a "relaxed ear set" is usually just chillin'.  It is always important to look at the whole dog to determine what may be going on with them emotionally.  I have a dog with huge, floppy ears, so it is sometimes hard to tell when his ears are perked up.  When he flattens them, as in, when he is scared of something, those ears don't change too much, so I have to look at how he is carrying his head, where his tail is, and how he is acting otherwise.  Parts of the dog may tell you only part of the story.

 *Does the tail movement have to do anything with their emotions?

Your dog's tail has a lot to say about how they are feeling.  A wagging tail does not always mean a friendly dog.  There was a behavioral study by National Geographic that explored the direction of a wag, as it relates to what it may be communicating.  The link is here  https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/left-or-right-tail-wags-elicit-different-emotional-responses-from-dogs/  if you'd like to check it out.

Most dogs respond favorably to a dog who has a relaxed set (neither up, nor down, but wagging in the middle) and wagging more to the right.  This seems to be telling other dogs that they are open and friendly, while a left-side wag made dogs want to leave that dog alone. 

If a dog has a very high, stiff, tight looking wagging tail, this may mean that he is excited, but also VERY ready for action.  Some dogs will wag like this when they are chasing a rabbit, or even when they are preparing to defend themselves. 

A low or tucked tail can mean that the dog is uncomfortable, nervous or trying to show that they are non-threatening.  Giving this sort of dog a bit of space, and allowing them to choose when they would like to approach you is the best plan.

There are also dogs out there who do not have much of a tail.  This can make it tough to use the tail as a tell for how the dog is feeling.  Watching the rest of the dog's body language will help in these instances.  If you are unsure, it is always a good idea to give a dog space, and wait for them to decide if they want to interact with you.

As a general rule, any time a dog goes very still, they are trying to warn you that they may need space.

The Other Side of the Fence is not Greener...

...It's Mine!

Which is essentially the "rock bottom" reason your dog goes nuts when the neighbor dogs are out.  When you have a lovely fence separating two spaces, it is sometimes very natural for a dog to feel as though they must protect that space from invaders.  What started out as an investigation (*sniff, sniff who is that over there...) may have now become "I can't let him out while those other dogs are out, 'cuz he goes nuts!"

We could get in to the nitty-gritty of certain personality triggers, or what your dog vs. their dog may be doing to make this worse, but that's not why you're here, is it?  You would like some peace and quiet when the dogs go outside.  So how do we get that?

Dogs bark.  It's what they do.  They are communicating all sorts of things with these vocalizations, and realizing this, can help us relax a little.  I do not expect my dogs to be silent weirdos who never acknowledge a possible threat, but I do expect them to shut their yap when asked.  'Asked' being the key there.  Yelling at your dog will not make them be quiet--there is a guy in my neighborhood with almost comic levels of anger at the barker in his backyard; "Barrar Arr! Barrar Arr!" says his dog.  "SHUUUUUT UUUUP!" says perfectly controlled man, screaming loud enough to be heard two blocks over (really, his range is impressive).  Over and over this is repeated.  For hours.  Obviously this is an unhealthy relationship, and no one is learning anything.

But I got side-tracked, we are talking directly to Fence Fighting.  Your dog is telling the neighbor's to 'get off my lawn.' The neighbor's dogs are saying 'no, you get off mine! And I hate your face!' To which your dog escalates, 'OH YEAH?! I HATE YOUR FACE TOO!' and so on...Cease and desist, shall we...?

First of all, does your dog have the slightest idea of what Leave It means? 

Does your dog hear it as something ineffectively shouted, or threatened in their general direction when they are freaking out?  Or is this a cue that invokes a tail wag and a "Sweet! They said my favorite thing, they've got snacks!" ?

Teaching your dog to Leave It, in a non-exciting environment, like your living room, and then proofing it in different areas can lay the groundwork for a dog who comes away from something tense, like a fence-fight.

Speaking of "fighting"...
If you have multiple dogs, who are so upset at the dogs on the other side, that they are turning on each other, you have a situation we call Redirected Aggression.  I prefer to think of it as Redirected Over-Stimulation, because that's exactly what is happening.  Your dog (or dogs) are so amped up about something, that they 'gotta put it somewhere, and it just happens to be the dog barking and freaking out right next to him.  In this case, for the safety of all involved, please stop allowing them out together.  Someone is bound to wind up heading to the ER.

It is not recommended to use deterrent methods to stop this sort of explosion.  Things such as 'shock collars' can be a disaster, if your timing is not precise.  When a dog is in a heightened state of arousal, i.e. his adrenaline is pumping and he is just a maniac, his response to discomfort or pain is diminished.  You may be adding fuel to the fire, in other words.

First of all, close your dog door, or remove it.  You cannot successfully control your dogs actions, if he has access to that space when you are not around to do something about it.

Put a leash on your dog when he goes outside.

A nice long one works, or even a retractable (it's one of the few applications I actually approve of using those things for).  I know, I am asking SOoooo much of you here; to put on shoes, maybe a light jacket, to clip a leash to your pup, and to go (gasp) Outdoors every time you want to let the dog out to pee, but it works.  If you cannot physically pull your dog off the fence, or prevent him from wanting to go over there in the first place--*dog tenses..."Leave it"...dog wags tail, looks up at you..."Good dog!" dog enjoys reward, and you move to a different part of yard...*--you are fighting a losing battle.

Yes, this way takes longer, but the end result is that you eventually Will be able to just send him outside.  Keeping an eye on him and calling "leave it" should you notice the slightest bit of tension towards those fools next door....yes, you should keep the rewards coming for leaving that situation alone.

Just because he learns not to do it, does not mean he is "cured" of the natural reaction he may feel when another dog is yelling at him through the fence-boards.  Over time, he will begin to feel differently about it, and may even stop caring altogether, but that sort of excitement holds a certain appeal for dogs; it's exciting--You have to be more so.

Instead of quashing the behavior with a heavy punishment, you are literally reprogramming the way he thinks, and feels about the dogs next door.  You are teaching him that their lack of control, means good stuff for him.

There are "lazy man" ways to help this too.  I call them lazy, but in reality, if your situation really does dictate that you have no time to work on a good and proper "leave it," you might consider some of the following:

Install Automatic Sprinklers along your fenceline.

  Point them where you choose, but the idea is to keep both your dog, and the neighbor's dogs out of that space.

Look into a Sonic Critter Chaser.  Not a sonic bark corrector, but a critter chaser--these are designed to chase wildlife, such as rabbits, deer, and coyote out of gardens, but you'd be surprised at how well they work to deter canines from entering a zone as well.

Use a squirt-bottle or super-soaker (should you want some range).  If your dog has an aversion to being squirted, go ahead and do it.  You need to try and catch it before it blows up, and you should probably follow it up with some rewards when the dog does the right thing.  If you squirt him, and he moves away from the fence, you should tell him he is Good, and give him a snack, and play with him.  Choices are important.

Install a secondary barrier.  The trouble is that your dog sees that dog as right up against his property line...so back the line up. 

Installing another fence, even a simple post and wire number, and placing it at least 3 feet (1 meter) away from the existing fence, can greatly increase your odds of success.  You'll cut the amount of time it takes for your dog to understand the Leave It training too.  In other words, you can bring down the excitement level by not having the other dogs two inches from your upset dogs face.

Plant annoying, thick growing bushes along the fence.  Again, the idea is to create a barrier that helps your dog not be right up the nose of the neighbor's dogs.  Be careful to choose plants that are non-toxic, and without thorns.  You will need to put temporary fence around these until they are mature, and keep your dog off them, otherwise they won't grow and you'll have wasted time and money.

Talking to your neighbors about the trouble can also be helpful.  Some people are happy to help on their side of the fence too. 

Find out if you are allowed to toss treats to their dogs; sometimes, all it takes is for both sides to realize we are friends.

I guess the short answer after all that, is to say that unless you do something to change the situation, it will only grow worse.  The dogs will get more and more frustrated, and begin to take it out on other situations.  You may notice increasing leash reactivity towards other dogs, or people.  When your dog lives in a constant state of stress (arousal, aggression, over-stimulation) they cannot enjoy life.

Once your dog has learned to Leave It, and you feel as though your dog has begun to see the dogs next door differently, move on to other behaviors.  Play with your dog more, in the space you have created for them by calming the situation.  Teach them other behaviors in the back yard...a new trick being learned while the neighbor's freak out may seem like a long way off, but you gotta start somewhere....

'Muzzle' is not a bad word

Any dog is capable of biting.  They have teeth.  Carnivore teeth.  They were predators chasing down prey (and eating our trash...) eons before they were parked on our couches.  Being aware of this, no matter the size, breed, or age of dog can help keep everyone safe.

There are plenty of times in your dog's life that may warrant wearing a muzzle.  I personally believe that every pet dog should be familiar with, and comfortable with wearing a muzzle; both the cloth and basket style.  "Why?" you may ask.  "My dog is friendly, and has never acted aggressively towards anyone."  Why on Earth would I want to muzzle such a sweet, good dog?

For starters, let's knock on wood, what if your dog is injured, and has to be rushed to the vet hospital? 

Or hit by a car, and you're not around and a good Samaritan steps in to help...The first and safest piece of advise in this situation is "muzzle the animal."  An animal in pain can and most likely will attempt to bite.  They are probably very afraid and will defend themselves in the only way Nature gave them, with their teeth.  If this frightened, painful dog has not been taught that a muzzle is a good thing, we are now adding to the stress--We must, to keep ourselves safe.

Speaking of vets, how does your dog feel about nail trims?  Some dogs are perfectly OK with it, but there are quite a few who are not.  For one reason or another, they have not been conditioned to accept this practice, so we hire vets and groomers to handle this.  Even if your dog is familiar with the staff, this sort of thing can fall under the "strangers doing weird things to me" category for some dogs; he may exhibit behaviors that point to a possible bite, so he will be muzzled--Again, for the safety of those handling him.  While this is a quick, and painless thing to add a muzzle, your dog may be further stressed by this piece of equipment if he doesn't understand what it is.

But what about the dog you see walking down the street in a basket muzzle?

Do you automatically assume it's because he is dangerous?
He may be, but it may mean he just needs more space.  I applaud the Human for recognizing that their dog may cause injury; perhaps he just really doesn't do well with other dogs, or maybe he has a history of snapping at people.  Either way, that basket on his dog is keeping him safe.

Sometimes, a good basket muzzle can be a way to help a very shy, nervous or anxious dog enjoy life.  I know, I know, hang with me here.  We see a dog in a basket, and we keep our own dogs away; we do not allow our children to approach; we avoid interaction, yes?  Because we assume the dog is mean...but keeping distance may be what that shy dog needs most, at that point in their rehabilitation.  The dog is out in the world.  Enjoying a walk, without being bothered by others.

Or maybe the muzzle is not for the dog at all.  Our natural avoidance of a dog in a muzzle may be helping the person walking the dog.  Perhaps that person suffers from anxiety, and can't handle interacting with other people.  The muzzle acts as a way to give that person a peaceful walk, alone.
See where I'm at?

There is absolutely no way to accurately guess why the dog is wearing a muzzle.  Sometimes it is there simply to prevent a dog from picking up and swallowing dangerous things. 

That muzzle may be saving him a trip to the ER for expensive surgery, and his people have conditioned him that a walk in a muzzle is a good time.

A well-fit muzzle can also assist in helping a dog play.  I read a great letter from a woman who muzzles her dog to prevent him from nipping the backs of the dogs he runs with.  She has a rather tall dog, and this stops his over-excitement from ruining a good play session.

Muzzles can be utilized as a training tool as well.  Please note, if your dog has had a history of starting a fight, or harming other dogs, work with a Professional.  When your dog is wearing a muzzle, he cannot defend himself.  If he is a fight-starter, working with a Professional to alleviate his stress and decrease his reactivity is vital.  Slapping a muzzle on him and turning him loose with other dogs is not fair.  It is a recipe for disaster, and some very expensive vet bills.

Cloth muzzles are meant for short-term wear, such as nail trims or other temporary restraint needs. 

Your dog cannot open his mouth to pant in this style of muzzle, and in excited states, this can lead to serious complications, and even death.  A freaked out dog in a cloth muzzle left home alone is no good.  If your dog is a chronic chewer, or eater of dangerous things, creating safe space to confine him to is a safer choice.  It is recommended not to leave a muzzled dog alone.  If you must leave your dog unattended and muzzled, please choose a custom-fit basket muzzle.  Again, not the best idea, but safer than a cloth muzzle in that scenario.  Your dog can potentially get his foot, or jaw caught on the muzzle and cause himself harm.

If you are considering a muzzle, please talk to your vet, or a good Dog Teacher.  While I believe all dogs should be comfortable in them, I also know they can be mis-used.  Using a muzzle appropriately, and knowing when it is just not necessary, is important to success.

When properly introduced, a muzzle quickly becomes something your dog looks forward to wearing.  I do not think every dog should be walked in a muzzle, I'm not a Tyrant...I'm just saying it may not mean that every dog you see in one is a "bad dog."

Suspicious Puppy

"Oh you think you're so tough!...."

How many times have you seen someone, (or been someone) with a puppy in their arms, who is growling, barking, and generally freaking out over the sight of another dog?  Or worse, a person who just entered the room?

This is not cute.

It is not something the puppy will just "grow out of..."

This is a fear-based response, that can grow into an ugly and hard to handle adult dog.

This is a necessary behavior for a baby canine to have.  If they weren't living in your comfy home, this response may indeed help keep them alive.  Posturing with hackles raised, towards things that make you nervous may cause the scary thing to retreat.  And if it works, the pup will repeat it.

So how do you help a wrongfully suspicious pup become a well-balanced and properly socialized adult?

*Do Not Make Light of It.
Stop saying things like "oh you think you're so tough."  Your pup does not think they are tough.  They are scared.

     A puppy that growls or barks when they see another dog, or person, should be told "No."  Following this, they should be turned away, or led away the opposite direction, so that they can no longer stare down the scary thing.  Not far, but just far enough to bring you to point number two...

*Use LOTS of Rewards.
Once you've corrected an inappropriate growling, get your cheese ready.  Get puppy focused on you and offer rewards just for looking at the scary thing without reacting.  Most puppies will sense your good mood when food is involved.  Bring a happy tone to your voice, and start saying dumb things..."Oh jeez, here's some cheese.  Can you see that brand new friend over there?  Here you go!  Good Puppy !  Oh my gosh, do you wan that person to five you some?  OH, you smelled friend's leg, good job! "

     Keep that verbal encouragement flowing so in the event that your pup doesn't take your cues, you can drop into that "No" and walk away very quickly.  It's all about paying your pup for what you want to see, and correcting for what isn't appropriate.

If your pup doesn't respond easily to this approach, contact a professional and get the individual help your dog may need.

*Please Don't Say "It's OK."
To a puppy, when we try to soothe with petting and a constant stream of "It's OK" while he's growling, we are sending him a clear message that we want to see more of this behavior.

     You wouldn't calm a 2 year old child who is hitting his sister by telling him "It's OK" while he continues to hit her.  Once you've stopped the unwanted behavior, that is when you can tell him "It's OK." See earlier article "When It's OK is Not" for a more in-depth discussion of this.

*Hang Out With Old Dogs.
A suspicious puppy can greatly benefit from being around well-mannered older dogs--No, the other dogs at your house do not count.  I am talking about forming relationships with strange dogs; making new friends.  Your pup will grow more comfortable around other dogs if exposed to some good personalities. 

Older dogs who know when enough is enough are vital to the social development of pups; can you imagine what children would be like without someone older around to say "that's a bad plan"?

*Dog Parks Are Not Always a Good Idea.
In an effort to get your pup around older dogs, a dog park might be a tempting, easy access place...However, this may be entirely too overwhelming for your naturally suspicious puppy.  As stated earlier, suspicious behaviors are fear-based; most fearful pups are a bit shy.

     Think about this:
     *You take her to the dog park.
     *She gets mobbed by adult and adolescent dogs who are not at all polite enough to realize she is a little unsure.
     *She runs.  They chase.
     *She begins to flop on her back and expose belly every time she's approached.
     *OR she starts bristling and showing fang when approached; she gives the occasional snap when another dog is trying to smell her/hump her/smash her to the ground...you think she's learning to stand up for herself, so you allow it.
     *She runs to you for help, but you think this play is fun, and she seems so eager to get in to the park when you arrive, so you bring her again.  And again.
     *You start to notice she is increasingly more vocal while on leash.  It seems she is reacting bigger and bigger anytime she sees another dog on a walk....

     On the Contrary:
     *You contact friends, or ask your vet if you can put a flyer up seeking play dates.
     *You take her to meet 2 or 3 older dogs, in a controlled setting, at someone's house, or in your yard.  You are close enough to help if things get too tense, and you can bring cheese!  Not to mention, you know these dogs are all vaccinated.
     *She freaks out a little (remember, leashes sometimes create more tension--but it's a good idea to go for a short walk together before you turn them loose in the yard).  The older dog either ignores her, or is experienced with pups and gently shows her that his intentions are to play, by bowing and dashing away from her.  She learns to chase, and to be chased without being afraid.
     *Suspicious puppy learns to wrestle correctly.  This means, sometimes she is the one pinning the older dog, and sometimes older dog has her pinned.  Proper play is an exchange; it should not be one-sided.  She is learning to chill out around other dogs.
     *Several of these visits, with different play partners and she now has the social skills necessary to perhaps handle a dog park.  Rover.com is a great way to find dogs to play with--a client of mine with an extremely fearful Weimaraner pup, found a Great Dane with good manners through Rover.com and now her dog has several friends.  Exposing her to one nice dog, who didn't chase her around trying to play too hard, showed her how to enjoy most dogs.

*Find a Good Puppy Group.
Just as we want her to learn good skills from older dogs, being able to socialize with kids her own age is important too.  Finding a well-run playgroup can help.  Talk to your vet, or your puppy class instructor to see what's available.  Remember, "well-run" means that nobody is allowing bullying or other poor behaviors to continue.  The instructor should be explaining why they break up certain play, and giving you tips on how to manage your particular pup, so you can help.  You do not want to attend a group where the instructor is sitting in a chair, telling you things like "they'll work it out," while two puppies smash your pup in a corner, or allow your pup to terrorize a smaller/weaker puppy.

*Take a Class.
Yup, I said it again.  Getting your dog into at least one basic class, sets you up for success for the rest of that dogs life.  He learns to pay attention to you when other dogs are present.  He learns other dogs close by are not scary, or worth growling at (your instructor should help teach you how to work the "leave it" if he is).  And he gets to meet more people.

When your pup is stiff and raising hackles; growling and maybe barking, ask yourself "Is this something I want my adult dog to do?"  It will be repeated unless you do something to change it. 

A suspicious puppy is actually one of my favorite personality types.  That is a pup with a thinking process; a common sense if you will.  It is your job, as that pup's guardian and caretaker, and teacher, to show them when suspicion is warranted, and when they need to just leave off. 

It is your canvass.  Paint a picture you can be proud of.

From House to Apartment: Helping a Stressed Dog Transition

Buckle Up, this is a long one.

Moving is stressful.  We feel it.  So do our pets.  Dogs who are suddenly not themselves, or acting out in creative, and sometimes destructive ways, are canines crying for help.  A dog who has been "perfect" most of her life, is suddenly tearing up the carpet and eating the blinds when you leave.  A once peaceful dog, now howls and barks every time she is left alone.  Your once friendly compadre is lunging at other dogs, and growling at strangers.

Sudden behavioral changes can be indicators that your dog is not handling things too well.  It can also be a red flag for medical conditions needing attention.  Resource Guarding (being "over-protective" of things, people or space) suddenly rearing its scary, fang filled face may not be your dog being bad...It may mean she isn't coping with these new living arrangements with grace, and is communicating this stress the only way she knows how.

While each case needs an individually catered approach, there are a few Universally safe things you can do to make things a little more stress-free for your furry friend.

Before undertaking any of the suggestions that will follow, please make sure your dog is healthy.  Check with your vet to be sure we have ruled out any medical reasons for these behavioral changes.  It isn't fair to expect an animal who isn't feeling well to suddenly "be nice," or "behave" if she isn't feeling good.  That's like my asking you to host a party with a headache.  Not cool.

Understand that Everything is Different.
Your dog is now experiencing having to share with many other people and dogs.  This can make a confident dog insecure.  It can cause a naturally fearful personality to suddenly lash out.  It can take a seemingly balanced animal, and make her very confused.  It can make you weird, basically.  She is trying to establish what now belongs to her in terms of territory--Did she have a big yard, perhaps acreage, and now you have a hallway?

She Can Hear Everything!
Sharing walls, and ceiling can put a dog on edge, if this is something she is not accustomed to.  The sounds of your neighbor walking to his fridge, or his pack-of-elephants kids might sound like a virtual nightmare to your dog.  Keep rewards handy.  Try playing with her, or otherwise engaging her mind, so she can begin to think those sounds are normal.  Don't fall in to the "it's ok" trap (see my other article "When It's Ok is Not" if she is barking excessively.

Go Back to Basics.

Bring treats of high value (think chicken and cheese) with you anytime you and your dog leave the apartment.  Make exploring her new shared space a happy, fun thing.  If she's in to toys, bring her favorite and play.  Keep this toy out of her reach while in the apartment.  Any time you see another person, or a dog, affect an aire of gladness--"oh look, Sasha!  Here comes another new friend! Here's some chicken for noticing our new friend, and more chicken because he has a dog!  Awesome!  Good Girl!  Chicken, nom, nom, nom..."  This really helps!

If the sight of another dog, or person, causes her to lunge and /or bark, contact a good Teacher to show you how to help her get over that reaction.  Pro Tip:  The very moment she notices that approaching dog, is the moment you tell her "Good Girl," and offer a piece of chicken, as you turn to walk the other way.  Do not offer food if she has crossed 'above threshold' and is in to the lunge or bark.

Are There Too Many New People in Her Life?
If your new situation has suddenly expanded your Human Pack, your dog may be feeling a little lost.  Our dogs depend on us for pack stability, and order within that pack.  Try to include these new Humans in your dog's routine a little.  Invite them to go for a walk with you two, or have someone else give her a meal.  Learning a new trick together can be an immensely bonding experience; perhaps a copy of '101 Dog Tricks' by Kyra Sundance is in your future?

Does Your Dog Have Alone Time/Space?
Even if your dog has known the new pack members for years, living with them on a day-to-day basis can be tough.  Your dog needs breaks from this chaos.  Make sure your dog has a place where no one is allowed to bother her.  My dogs know that if they have chosen to lay on a dog bed (rather than a couch) they will be left alone.  We may talk to them "good boy, thank you" but we do not invade their personal space.  If  you have a velcro-dog personality, this may be tough, so you might need to work on teaching a good Down and Stay before your dog can enjoy the peach and quiet of her bed.  I have available beds on every floor of the house, so they can get peace and quiet, and still be "with me" if they feel the need.

Preferably, this alone time can be in another room.  If you feel your dog is too stressed by trying to be with you among all the other family members, put her in another room, with something to do--a stuffed Kong, or an alternate safe, tasty chew.  A crate is ok, but only if your dog is familiar and friendly with her crate.

Help Her Turn Off.
If she has developed resource guarding tendencies, or seems just obsessed with waiting at the windows for something to bark at, let's remove these things.
Pick up her food dish when it is not meal time (free feeding is not really the best of plans anyway), and put her toys somewhere else.  Should the window be our 'trigger' for tension, try putting some waxed-paper on the lower portion, so the light gets in, but she won't be able to see as much.  Or close the blinds.

Contact a good Teacher who can help show you how to eliminate these behaviors.  Closing the blinds, or removing the dish may help her relax in the moment (and she needs this), but long-term, these are detrimental levels of stress that can, and should be worked through.

Help Her Relax.
Much like dealing with Separation Anxiety, there are some medications (vet prescribed) that can help her cope.  These may, or may not, be long-term solutions, but opening a dialog with your Veterinarian is a good plan.  They can help you determine if chemically altering the neuro-process of your dog's brain is a viable option.  If medication is not necessary, there are some natural, or non-chemical ways you can go at this.

Lavender:  Yup.  The very same scent spas use to chill us out, can also help soothe your pup's ragged nerves.  You may think about adding a little of this essential oil to a cotton ball (remember, dog's noses are VERY sensitive--one drop may be enough) and put it into a diffuser ball hung from her collar.  Etsy has some adorable options for this!  You can also look in to an essential oil diffuser; these little, affordable, plug-in units look beautiful, and turn the oil and water in to a mist that just diffuses the scent in to the air.

NOTE OF WARNING!!!!!  Many essential oils are FATALLY TOXIC)

Calming Pheromones:  Products such as Adaptil, utilize synthetic pheromone technology to mimic the calming effects a nursing dog has on her pups.  This can have an amazing effect on some stressed-out dogs.  They come in sprays (added to dog's bedding/favorite areas; not the dog herself), plug-in diffuser units, and collars.  The collars are cool because this means it goes wherever your dog does.

The Good Ol' Anxiety Wrap, or Thundershirt:  K, here's the thing; this is either going to be the best fifty dollars you ever spend, or do absolutely nothing.  I feel like they are worth a try.  They work on the principles of pressure applied to acupressure points on your dog's body.  When this pressure is applied, the canine system begins to release relaxing endorphins that can alleviate anxiety responses.  I have personally witnessed both miracles, and nothing happening.  The success of the shirt depends on where the anxiety stems from, what is creating it, and if it is a true anxious response, or something needing medical attention.

I once put one on The Most strung-out-hyper Beagle mix I'd ever met (one of the most active dogs I've ever worked with, period ).  Her owner thought she was just a hyper dog--Extremely out-going, very friendly, just a go go go all the time gal.  Add Thundershirt, and she literally stopped gasp-panting and flipping her head from one view to the next, slowed to a walk, laid down and with a relaxed sigh, closed her mouth and began to actually look at her world for the first time in her life.  It was magical.  As though she wasn't on fast-forward anymore.

Homeopathic Remedies.
Also a consideration, as they can be used along with most prescribed medications, or on their own.  Bach's Rescue Remedy for Pets, or Homeopet's Anxiety Relief Drops can be wonderful!  I pesonally use the Homeopet Anxiety Relief Drops for my big ol' scaredy guy.  When we first adopted him, he was getting his recommended dose four times a day.  Now, as with his Thundershirt, we only give them about an hour before anticipated anxiety causing events.

These are somewhat akin to having a relaxing cup of tea; not a heavy drug, not a fix-all.  But a method to help him cope with stressors a little bit better.  Speaking of tea, adding a bit of Chamomile tea to your dog's water bowl might also help.  Not too much, as they tend to avoid the bowl if it is too concentrated.  If you are unsure of how much is a good idea, call your vet.  In this scenario, I'm assuming your vet is as on board with Natural Remedies as mine is :)

Above all, if you have a dog who is used to a lot of space, and physical outside time, making up for it with lots of walks and extra play time is very important.  A dog who suddenly finds herself kept in the not-so-great indoors may act out more often.  Exercise can be a sort of "magic bullet" in the search for a balanced, happy dog.  A tired dog is a happy dog--and no, I do not think it's a good idea to drive your dog to exhaustion just so you can have some peace and quiet.  Making sure your pup gets her physical needs met, as well as her mental requirements, are really the best ways to help her get over, and get in to this new life.

Lots of play, puzzle toys, busy feeders, hiring a dog walker (should you be unable to walk her yourself), or driving her to new parks to sniff are important tools.  Speaking of which, it is time for me to spend some time with my own pups.  Thanks for sticking in there and reading this rather long article.  The more I thought about it, the more complex I realized this really was.  It isn't as simple as Do this and Voila!  Fixed Dog!  Even with this discussion, I haven't completely covered all the ways your dog can act out behaviorally, in response to a sudden, extreme living situation change.  So I will close with something familiar...

If you haven't found a "fix," please call your vet and ask for help, both in what to do, and for a list of qualified Teachers (you may know them as "trainers") in your area.

Reactive Dogs: No More Excuses.

What a beautiful day!  The sun in shining, it is the perfect temperature, the hike is wonderful, and both our dogs are such gentlemen.  What is this approaching from the other direction...?

At the very end of a retractable leash, is a woman holding tight (still not safe) and calling out "He's not vicious!  He just has a little problem on a leash!"  Meanwhile, our "not vicious" friend is choking himself out, and broadcasting the sort of bark that makes it clear to both our dogs that he's not kidding.  So clear, in fact, that they are practicing social avoidance and looking away from him; walking politely on the off side of us as we ignore this fiasco and continue on.

"He's not vicious..."

"She's better off lead..."

"They are actually friendly.  They just hate the leash..."

"Shhhh...it's ok...it's ok..."

"He's usually OK once he says hi..."

"OH!  She is SO excited!..."

"He just wants to play!..."

If you, or any of your friends and family have ever uttered any of these things, as an excuse for your dog's behavior towards another dog while on a leash, Stop It.

Clearly he is not OK.  He obviously is having a "vicious" reaction to the sight of my dog, and I think you are being naive and wallowing in denial.  Your dog is a liability, no matter what size or type.  Your dog is one slipped collar, dropped leash, or broken retractable away from disaster.

This "vicious" reaction is a sign of distress.  It most likely stems from an initial fear of other dogs, or social situations. 

"Ah crap...Mom, do you have ANY idea how many scary dogs are out there???"

Perhaps he has had interactions with other dogs while on leash, that have led him to believe that he cannot defend himself, or retreat as he normally would without it. Your dog was poorly socialized, or traumatically socialized (think dog park, or poorly managed puppy play groups), and now has figured out that if he loses his mind when he sees a dog, he gets what he wants:  You drag him out of sight, or I step out of sight.  In either case, your dog no longer has to deal with what he perceives as a threatening situation.

The other, and most important in my opinion, piece of that problem is that you keep making excuses for him.  Stop doing this.  Apologize.

The handler/owner who says "No" to his dog, and then calls "I'm sorry" to me, is the owner who is already on the way to helping that dog recover. 

I realize that if you have a dog who is reactive, telling her "no" is not enough.  There is a road to rehab that may be very long ahead of you, should you decide to help her get better.  Making it clear to your dog that her reaction displeases you is step three.

Step One is to convince your dog that the sight of another dog is the best thing to ever happen in your life.  That means, you have to begin building some foundation behaviors first.  Teaching your dog a fantastic 'Leave It' in the confines and comforts of your home, where no other dogs can freak her out is key.  Leave It should be the most positive, wonderful, fun game your dog has ever heard of.  A good Leave It is basically saying "please stop looking at that thing," whatever that might be.  It can also be useful for teaching a pup not to pick things up off the ground, or to help your ham sandwich from winding up as dog food.  Not sure how to go about teaching this?  Talk to a good Teacher.  If they say anything about hitting, shocking, "tapping" your dog's nose, or making scary sounds to 'teach' this Leave It, please, go talk to a better Teacher.

Should you not have the financial means to hire a good Teacher, check out Dr. Sophia Yin's Strategies for Focus Exercises.  These are Necessary Skills, and you can look them up FOR FREE.  You may still need help, but at least you can get started.

Step Two:  Wrap your head and heart around the idea that your dog may never really like other dogs.  You know how Grandpa grumbles and complains about Everyone, all the time?  (Gran Turino...anyone?)  He doesn't like people.  He's not comfortable interacting with strangers, he has his space and his routine, and that's OK.  He's not getting in to fights, or screaming at everyone he passes; he prefers to ignore them.  My point is, your dog does not have to become a social butterfly in order to be a civil, well-behaved member of society.  What we are going for, is the ability to pass another dog on the street, without exploding.

Accept your dog for who they are.  Teach them alternative behaviors, and work slowly up to changing the intensity of the distractions, and you may find them willing to at least try to make a friend they tolerate...Or one they even love.  Some dogs truly are uncomfortable in mass social settings, and that's OK.

What's not OK is to allow them to live in constant fear and anger, because You keep making excuses.

ummm, not what I meant by Heel little guy...