Disaster Preparedness: Are your pets ready?

 As disaster season barrels down upon us, are you and your pets prepared? 

 

I tend to err on the side of "overly cautious" and "way too prepared," as both our dogs are seniors; they take medications, and one of them is on prescription food.  These are things I cannot just pop in to a grocery, or convenience store to grab....assuming there are even stores available to you at the time.  While most scenarios will have options after a few days, it is a good idea to plan for a Week (7days) worth of supplies for each of your pets.

If you are a Feline family, take the time to adjust your kitties to riding in a kennel.  Cats can be more easily spooked by unfamiliar smells, places, noises, etc. and having your cat in a kennel can minimize escape risk.  Make sure your contact information is Securely, and Clearly marked on the outside of the kennel; with a description of the pet inside.  Your kitty should also be wearing a breakaway collar with your information on a tag.  Taking some extra time to train your kitty to be comfortable in a harness and leash, will give you another layer of safety, should you need to get kitty out of the kennel for any reason.

Canines can also be kenneled for safety, especially if they are on the smaller side.  Again, clearly mark your information on the outside of the kennel, and make sure your pup is wearing a collar or harness they cannot escape from.  Be sure the information on the ID tag is up to date.

Speaking of ID:  Microchip your pets.  Make sure the information is Up to Date.  In the event that your pet becomes separated from you, this might be their ticket home.  More than 50 percent of lost pets in 2023 were reunited with their families because of their microchips.

The following list is what we keep ready to rock during fire season.  Obviously, your Go-Bag items may differ a bit.  Depending on your region, and climate, your Pet-Go Bag may be Tornado, or Flood ready.  In any disaster scenario, having a Ready Bag is a Must.

Being Prepared means learning new things.  Take a Pet First Aid class.  In the short term, if you cannot reach veterinary services, or something happens that requires minor intervention, it can literally save your pets life for you to have basic First Aid and over-the-counter medication knowledge.  Note: I am not advocating Home Treatments as a go-to; this is 100% in a scenario where you cannot get to a vet in a timely fashion.  

Go-Bag Checklist

☐ 7 days Food--Don't forget to refresh the food stock about every 4-6 wks.  The oils and preservatives (yes, even in 'all natural' foods) can become stale, and sometimes even rancid, leading to upset tummies.  If your pet eats canned foods; don't forget to pack a lid/sealable container for any opened cans. Check expiration dates on your cans.

☐ Fresh Water--If you are using a re-usable bottle, wash and refresh this at the same time you rotate the food.  If using factory sealed bottles, the bottle should be good for at least 6 months before a 'swap' to a fresh bottle is recommended.

☐ 7 days medications--If your pet is on a controlled substance, talk to your vet about extending the quantity if possible, to cover the additional week's supply.  In some cases, it may be helpful to have a written prescription for the week, so you can potentially fill it in another town, should disaster make it impossible to get to your vet before the meds run out.

☐ Vaccination Records and Medical History

☐ List of Care Requirements, medication dosing, diet, behavioral information, etc.--In short, if you become incapacitated, and a Humane Society volunteer suddenly finds themselves with your pet in their care, do they have the information to provide your pet with the medications or special needs they may have?  

Our little notebook is an Owner's Manual.

Basically, any Human that has that notebook of ours, would have all the necessary information for our pets to remain Healthy in our absence.  Not a fun thought, but one you should have in mind when planning for disaster.  

☐ List of veterinary services, emergency service locations outside your immediate area.  Knowing where to go, after you get out of the disaster zone is vital.  If you live where poisonous snakes reside, call the veterinary practices and make sure you know Who Has Anti-Venom on site--Not all vet clinics can provide this medication/don't have it.  Wasting time driving to a clinic without it, may mean the difference between Life and Death for your pet.

☐ Extra Leash and collar/harness--Let's say you get the order to Evacuate, NOW.  In the haste to GTFO, it might save you valuable minutes if you only have to grab the animal and stick them in a kennel, grab the Go-Bag and leave.  Knowing everything you need is In The Bag. 

☐ Travel Bowls for food and water

☐ Tissues or Paper Towels

☐ Pet Waste Bags--If you are traveling with a kitty, make sure you pack a disposable litter pan and scooper too.  In a pinch, you can use dirt as cat litter, should litter either not be available, or you find that packing cat litter takes up too much space.  Arm n' Hammer makes a great disposable litter pan, that comes with pellet litter already in it.

☐ Muzzles.  Did you know that when Katrina hit, many pets were left behind because the evacuation checkpoints would not allow animals without "screen mesh" muzzles to cross?  Take time to do Positive muzzle training well before you may actually need to use it in a disaster scenario; no need to add more stress to an already stressful pet.  

Not to mention, if your pet becomes injured, they may try to bite because they are in pain, or very frightened.  Being comfortable in a muzzle should be part of your dogs regular life.

☐ Pet-Safe Baby Wipes

☐ Any Daily needs--One of our dogs is prone to fungal infections of the skin, so he gets daily belly-cleansing with KetoHex wipes; our other one won't take medication without peanut butter...these are 'daily need' items

☐ Flea & Tick Prevention--Who knows how long you may be away from home, and if their monthly dosing schedule falls on a day you were being evacuated, this ensures no gap in coverage.

☐ Heartworm Prevention--packing a dose just in case....

☐ First Aid Kit:

        ☐K9 Medic, by Eric "Odie" Roth--This is an invaluable resource for most dog emergencies.

This Book is worth its weight in Gold.  
It will help you decide what should belong in your own First Aid Kit,
and explain what to do with a lot of the items on our list here.

        ☐ Benadryl 25 mg pink tablets (canine dose = 1 mg per lb. of dog). DO Not dose unless you are certain this will not interact with other medications

        ☐ Pet Safe Anti-Diarrheal medication

        ☐ Anti-Emetic (nausea) medication--Check with your vet for best recommendations. We use an over-the-counter med. for our Go-Bag, but it is Strictly for emergent situations. Do Not Use Human Medications, unless your Veterinarian says OK.

        ☐ Thermometer for rectal temp. check

        ☐ KY Jelly for rectal temp. check

        ☐ Rolled Gauze

        ☐ Vet Wrap/Self Adhering bandage wrap--swap this out every few months, as the adhesion can become sticky to itself, making this unusable

        ☐ Cotton Balls or Cotton Rounds

        ☐ Nail Trimmer

        ☐ Quick-Stop Gel or Styptic Powder 

        ☐ Chlorhexadine antiseptic --Find this at most feed/equine supply stores, or online.  

        ☐ Peroxide 3% Solution

        ☐ Oral Syringes 20 ml, marked with your dog's peroxide dose

        ☐ Saline Solution

        ☐ Disposable Medical Skin Staple Gun

        ☐ Tick Twister

        ☐ Blunt nose Scissors

        ☐ Tweezers

Remember to check expiration dates on all medical supplies; even Peroxide has an expiration date.  Pack all of this in organized fashion, so it is easy to reach in a 'gotta have it' situation.  Your list may not match ours, but ours may be a good place to start. 

How to Introduce Kitty without Chaos

Dogs and Cats.  They don't always get along. But when they do, it can be a bond that most best friends would be jealous of.  But how do we go about introducing them to each other, without scaring the daylights out of either party?  

Create Dog-Free Zones that the Cat can access at all times.

This is especially important if the cat has never been around a dog.  Dogs with a high pre-drive WILL chase an animal that runs; making sure the cat has a space where dog is not allowed, helps give them a safe place to run to--however, we are also teaching the cat not to run, but to be calm around the dog.  And vise versa.

Building Cat Shelves that are too high for the dog, but the cat can easily access can help kitty feel safer than on the floor.  This also gives you some great options as to where you keep the cat food--Dogs love it, but it is bad for them.  Cat food contains too much Taurine; Good for Cats, but can cause ocular blindness in Dogs.

It is not fair to expect them to be immediate friends.  If at all possible, take your Dog over to a house with cats, BEFORE you bring one home. Find a friend with cats who trust you not to drop your Dog's leash, and will allow your dog to sniff around the place.  Bring lots of treats, and reward dog for acting appropriately.  This also gives you a chance to see if having a kitty in their life is even a possibility.

Keep the pets separate at first.

Give kitty their own room.  Keeping kitty in a private space, (where litter box, food and water are available) for a few weeks gives the pup a chance to get used to the smells, and sounds of the new pet, without putting kitty in danger.  This also helps cats to relax in to their new surroundings; a stressed cat will sometimes urinate inappropriately, or refuse to eat.

Rotate who gets to explore the house.

After a few weeks, begin to allow kitty time to explore their new digs, while the dog is behind closed door, and in another room.  Remember to give the dog something to do during this time; don't want them to think they are "in trouble" and cause a bigger issue.  This gets everyone's smells intermingling; creating a "shared space" before they actually physically share space.

Teach Basic Commands.

If your pup is not already familiar with listening when you speak, use the time that kitty is installed in their own room, to start teaching important cues.

"Come," "Leave It," "No," and "Stay," are vital to giving kitty a sense of security.  If your pup cannot do these things fairly reliably on leash, contact a professional, get into a class, or at the very least, order a copy of '101 Dog Tricks' by Kyra Sundance.

Convincing your dog that good things (namely Chicken, Cheese, Turkey Bacon, fun games/toys, etc) happen while this new smell --kitty-- is in their house, the more positively your dog will view this animal.

Us humans make The Biggest mistake when we see our pups getting tense around another animal.  Be it another dog, a small human, or a cat:  Our tendencies to say "Be Nice" in the most ominous tone possible, translates to your dog as emotional nervousness, and worry about Something.  When we do this in front of the cat, (who the dog is already not sure of) and they hear us talking like that, they can sometimes interpret this as a need for them to 'control the situation.'  This can result in your dog trying to 'take care of the interloper (kitty)' in ways we really don't want.

Keep it upbeat, but not crazy.  Be calm and happy in your voice, if you can, as they are learning to be friends. 

Use Your Leash!  

I cannot stress this enough.  Just as I have mentioned a dog should never approach another dog on a tight, tense leash, your dog should also never pull towards a cat.  Keeping a leash on the dog when you graduate to letting them see each other, gives you a safety net to pull that dog out of there, should they lose their mind and decide to chase or attack this small animal.  

Yes, the same advise goes for other small animals--Chickens, rabbits, other farm livestock...Following a controlled, positive approach can go a long way towards helping your dog be kind to little things.  Granted, some dogs are living with SUCH a large prey-drive, that they may not be suited to living that kind of life, and may never be trustworthy around such things.  In other cases, your dog may actually need a different approach to this, but if that is the case, I strongly recommend seeking the help of a trained professional Teacher.

When you have moved to allowing them to see each other, past just sniffing where the other one has been, set up a Baby-Gate or other physical barrier that the cat cannot just walk through (you may need to add screen, or modify a typical gate for this).  Some folks have opted to replace or add a real screen door to kitty's room.  This can work wonderfully, but be sure you have installed the metal 'scratch' blocker on the bottom portion, or you may have a dog that discovers he can just crash through it.

Treat it as a normal day in the life, use your treats, and Every time the cat pokes his head out of that room where the dog can see it, GET HAPPY.  "OH look, there's our kitty! Here Rufus! Snack time for you! Can you Sit?  Good Dog!  How about Down...Good! Rufus, Come..." at this point, you are moving away from the 'I can see the cat' zone, and someone else is putting the cat back in the room.  

If you are by yourself doing this, lead Rufus outdoors or into another room, or into his kennel, so you can safely put the cat away again.

Use "NO" and body block if your dog does not respond when the cat is within sight.  This means your dog was not ready for the sight of the animal yet; go back to practice...get those cues for "Leave It" working for you and your dog.  

Ideally, your dog should be able to look at the kitty, hear you say something like "Good boy, Rufus, see the kitty?  Now, Rufus, Leave It" and Rufus should break the stare on the cat, and look to you for a reward.  If he cannot, use your body as a block--Make sure you face Rufus when you do this, otherwise, he will get the idea that you are helping him bother the cat.

Repeat sessions daily, if possible.

Small, repeated sessions of rewarding dog for not acting like a maniac, but rather paying attention to you, will net you a dog who can relax about the little animal you brought into their life.

Only when you feel your dog is totally relaxed around the cat, and the cat is showing Zero signs of tension in the pups presence (kitties like treats too) should you trust them to be toolin' around the house without a leash on the dog.

Use the baby-gate for a while.  Let the dog loose on the other side of the gate, and practice calling him/her away from the cat.  Change sides of the gate so the dog can see that the cat is allowed in their space, and it is up to You who gets to go where...

Proceed with caution.  If your dog seems to get Too elevated when the cat is present, talk to your vet about some short-term anxiety control medication (think daily Zoloft for dogs; not episodic tranquilization) and resolve yourself to the idea that it may be months, and sometimes years before your pup can live with a small animal like a feline.  If this is the case, it may be in both animal's best interest to consider rehoming one of them.  Living in danger, or constant anxiety or fear, is not ok.

Some dogs are just no OK with cats.  Period.  

Some cats are not OK with dogs.  That's OK too.  If this scenario is flipped, and it is the cat who is struggling with the dog, a lot of the same strategies can be used.

1. Use treats when the dog is around.  

2. Give safe places to escape.  

3. A handy water bottle to deter a kitty on the attack might be helpful.  Please note, if your dog is a chaser, this may not be the smartest move....

If you have a super-mellow dog, and the cat is just bent on attacking it, put a leash on the cat.  You may have to spend some time (weeks/months) getting the cat used to wearing a harness and lead, but this will allow you to control how things go.

4. Doing the smell-swap of putting the dog away and allowing the cat to get used to how kitty's environment smells with dog in it.

5. Make sure cat knows they have space the dog is not allowed.

6. Do not allow the cat to torment your pup while he/she is in the crate.  Felines are creative, observant creatures--I've seen instances where the animosity between dog and can was not improving, because the cat would taunt the pup.  Staying out of his reach when the dog was out of the crate, then kitty would sit and stare at the dog whenever he was in the crate.  Further, the cat could reach in to the crate to "bop" the pup, but the pup could not reach him...Recipe for disaster.  Lock the cat up if this is your kind of cat.  Or use a squirt bottle on kitty to teach him/her to stay away from dog while it is in the crate.

Creating a peaceful, strong friendship between your dog and your kitty doesn't take too much work. But in the end, You are the Leader and the Ultimate Resource Provider for both of them...leverage your Happy and your ability to give Snacks, to show them they actually want to be friends.

Tools: The Choke Chain

Recently, it was brought to my attention that I do not have a 'tools' article about the Choke Chain.  I have purposely avoided talking too much about this little piece of equipment, because of my personal feelings towards its application in uneducated hands.  That's not fair to you, dear Reader.  

While not my 'go to' usually, these simple little collars have been around forever.  They are met with almost as much controversy as the electronic correction collars, or the prong collar. They get lumped together with all the other "adverse" training tools, but they do still have a place in the training world.  As with any tool, one must familiarize themselves with the proper use and application of said tool, if one expects to be pleased with the end result.  And as with any tool, misuse can result in injury.

The basic rule to remember here, is the smaller the chain-link, the more it can hurt.  Obviously, if this is your tool of choice, be reasonable in your link choices; a 120 lb dog should not be on a chain that is too fine to hold him, nor should that little Chihuahua be rockin' big gold links for control.....no matter how cool he looks in it.

As you can see in this illustration, allowing too much pressure on a young dog's throat, no matter what kind of collar you use can cause some damage.

Please do not choke chain a young or fragile dog.  Most canines throats/trachea and cervical spines are not developed or strong enough to take a strong 'snap' or 'pop' correction, before the age of 6 months.  Breeds that are prone to spine issues, such as Dachshunds, or French Bulldogs, should most likely not be trained with this tool.  If you already have one on your dog, and all you hear is that "hnghngh--hack/cough" sound as your dog Still pulls you, it is being used incorrectly, and you are building scar tissue in his throat. Or worse, you are headed for a condition known as "Collapsing Trachea," or deficiencies and complications with your dog's thyroid glands.  Please note, these conditions can also be caused by genetics, or other factors as well; in no way do I 'blame the chain' for all throat damage or conditions.

Do Not tie your dog out in a choke chain!  If he gets it caught or hung up on something, he can strangle and die.  If you must use a tie-out, a Martingale with a quick release is a much safer option--Here's a link to our article on them, if you want more information on this wonderful little tool: http://rosedogtraining.blogspot.com/2014/06/tools-you-should-use-martingale-collar.html

If you have decided the choke chain is the way to go:  Let's make sure you at least know the basic How To of Fit and Function.

To properly fit a choke chain, measure your dog's skull at its widest point, and then add 2".  This will give you enough clearance for most ears, but not so much extra chain, that you'd find yourself with too much extra chain at the end of your leash when attached.  We want the chain's action to be quick:  Too much extra chain can slow this down, and decrease the effectiveness of the correction.  Should you have a breed with Huge ears (think Bloodhound), adding 3 inches to your measurement will be More than enough.

The chain should fit high on the neck, directly behind the dogs ears, and just under his jaw, where it meets his throat.  His trachea is closest to the surface at this point, which means your correction will be most uncomfortable here, thus making it most effective.  

If the dog is to walk on your left side, the chain should look like a letter "P" when you put it on him.

For a dog on your Left, the chain should form a letter "P"

 If you walk your dog on the right, the chain should look like a letter "Q".  

If you walk your dog on your Right, place the chain on the dog so it resembles a "Q."

While this may not seem too important, it actually can change the way the action of the chain responds when you snap it.  

Should the chain be either too long, or is not placed/used high on the neck, the correction becomes less impactful.  The lower on the neck the chain slips, the more your dog's trachea is protected by muscle and fur, and dewlaps...This means that you will also have to 'pop' him with more force to get his attention.  

A choke chain that rides low on the neck Will eventually be acceptable, but by the time you are allowing that, your dog should have been trained with proper placement (high behind the ears), and no longer needs a "real" correction to respond or respect the leash.  At that point, the dog is responding to the lightest jiggle of the collar, and he knows that sound (the chain slipping against itself) is a precursor to a 'pop' or 'snap' correction, and will correct himself, way before you need to actually snap him.

A chain that is too long, or placed incorrectly, can snag and pinch ear flaps, or loose skin when suddenly yanked, or 'popped.'  

Have you ever watched a dog show?    

Think about how those handlers hold the leash when they are showing the dog off as they jog around the ring.  That tiny little cord, or delicate chain is right up on that neck, keeping that dog's head off the ground, and those toes on their tips....Using a choke chain at first, will feel like you are trying to do a dog show.

This does not mean that you are half-choking the dog all the time as you walk.  Allowing too much tension (be it from the dog pulling it tight all the time, or from your attempting to hold the dog back rather than properly correct him), can also cause blood vessels in the dogs eyes to break, or raise the pressure in the actual eyeball to such a degree that the eye may be damaged or lost entirely---I've seen it, it's not pretty; nor is it 'cheap' to fix when you take him to the vet.  This ocular injury can occur with hard-pullers on a collar of any kind, so if you are noticing your pup seems to have red eyes after a good pull (some people call it walking), you may want to reevaluate the tools you have chosen...Or try to alter the way in which you are using it.

So you've gotten the appropriate size choke chain, you've seen the 'dog show' walk, now what?  How to properly use this Tool?

Get with a good Teacher, and have them help.

If you want to go it alone, no problem, just keep in mind that while this tool is simple, it can be a real hassle to keep that chain where it belongs, and learn to issue proper corrections when necessary.  There are other inventive tools out there, to assist with collar placement, but to be perfectly frank, if you need this sort of device, you may want to either change tools, or learn proper technique.  The choke chain is not a tool that just does its job, without your help.  Dogs are amazingly adaptable, and they absolutely will drag you down the street, choking themselves silly...unless we use technique to teach them otherwise.

The correction you give a choke chain should be fast, firm, and only as strong as necessary for the dog.  Placing the chain on your own wrist/forearm and learning how to give a quick 'snap' before using it on the dog is a great way to get your mechanics together.  Remember, we aren't bringing emotions in to this.  This correction must become absolutely automatic; this collar can become a communication device to the dog.  The snap correction that a boisterous, bouncing, happy, but out of control dog will respond to, may be entirely too harsh and frankly, cruel to use on a fearful, shy dog. 

Stop waiting for the dog to make a huge mistake before attempting to correct it with the collar snap.  Begin in your house/apartment, where the distractions are at a minimum.  Using a well-fit choke chain, and preferably a leather  leash (they are better on your hands, and do not slip through them as easily as a nylon leash), start by teaching your pup that Following you is Much Better than attempting to lead you.

I like to use a tasty snack, or the dogs' favorite toy, as a reward for walking in the right spot next to my leg.   Make sure the you dole out that reward only when the dog is in the position you want--if you feed him when he is out in front of you, he will get the idea that is where you want him to walk.  I usually like to hold a snack next to my thigh, (or knee if I'm working with a shorter dog) and as I make a turn, if the pup is paying attention, he'll find it.  

If you feel like you have to say his name, make kisses sounds, or wave the snack in his face to get his attention...you are trying to bribe him.  We are quietly offering a tasty "find" right where I want him to walk.  I find it helps most dogs understand the difference between what I'm correcting, and what I actually want them to do.  It isn't fair to just throw a chain on a dog, and start popping him for behaviors he may have been building for years, without giving him a chance to understand what I'm asking for.  

Using some kind of reward in this fashion, can also help the dog recognize that we are still having a good time.  If learning is fun, they will want to do more of it.  If you are working with a more sensitive personality, you may find that a simple slip-lead, or a nylon choke collar will work--without overpowering and emotionally damaging your dog.

A slip-leash can offer a 'softer' version of the choke correction; a good choice for more sensitive dogs.  

 That being said, the following instructions will not include doling out food rewards...That is up to your discretion, but rewarding in that "paycheck" way, and not using it as a "bribe" is most important with this kind of tool.  Paying the dog, be it praise or a snack, when he does the right stuff, will cut down on how long this process can take.

Start by placing the dog on either your left, or your right side (doesn't matter which you choose, but please stick to it, once you've started with one).  Get the dog in position at your side. We are going to talk from here out, as though the dog is on my Left, for the sake of saving a few words.  

Dog at Left side. If you've taught him to Sit, start him in a Sit at your side. 

Step off with your left leg, saying something like "Let's go" or "Walk." We are Not, I repeat, Not teaching a military Heel here, so I will not label it as such.  We can talk about what a "Heel" actually is, but not right now.

As you step out, give the dog a slight 'pop' with the collar --remember, you are not trying to be too Big to start with. Your communication with the collar, should be a quick snap, as this should stop him from racing ahead. Remember, dog show leash. As he gets better at this, your correction will be more sideways, as he will be next to you.

Should dog leap out ahead of you immediately, issue a stronger 'pop' or 'snap' as you turn to go the other way.  The combination of your direction change, his forward motion, and the correction you issue from the leash/collar will magnify the correction.  This is why it is important to practice this skill where your dog will not be easily distracted, if at all possible.  Giving yourself and the dog a chance to experience smaller, less severe chain corrections, can lay a better foundation for when you are exposing him to bigger distractions.  

Do not allow your dog to get more than his head in front of you.  Every time he tries, 'pop' that collar and turn away from the dog.  That means, every time I 'pop' and turn, I am turning to my right, as the dog is on my left.  As they get better at this, you can incorporate the 'inside turn' (where I turn to my left, thus turning IN to the dog) and do some figure 8's and what have you.  When researching this technique, check out "How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend" by the Monks of New Skete; good stuff.

Walk around your furniture, up and down stairs, hallways, etc.  Keep in mind, your corrections need to become second nature--Dog not at side, dog gets correction.  Dog places tension on leash, dog gets correction.  Dog lagging behind, give more gentle, but still a correction for not moving their feet.  Dog attempts to jump on you, correct it--by pulling him sideways and off of your body. You've graduated from walking around the house, and you now want to try going outdoors with this, so dog leaps out the door--correct it, turn around, go back inside, and try again; and again, and again.  You are going for impulse control, so be patient.

***Please Note:  If your dog is 'failing' over and over and over again, correcting him harder and harder and harder will only damage the relationship you are trying to build.  This can have negative effects on his confidence.  Go back to something he's good at, and try a shorter, easier exercise.  Sometimes, it is Absolutely worth it, to stand still and correct gently.  In an environment with little to no distractions, using this small way to teach him how to avoid tension on the lead, can net you bigger success when you actually start walking around.  Meet your dog where he's at with this.  

Tension on the leash, and improper position, is what you are correcting.  You are creating bumpers with your corrections, essentially:  As long as the dog stays in his lane, i.e. directly next to your leg, he is doing the right thing.  So weather it's verbal praise (lots of encouragement here) or a combination of praise and snacks, he needs the balance of Good vs. Collar Correction, or you will find you have a dog that grows frustrated and dishes out more crap than necessary in this process.

Some dogs will react to being manhandled in this manner.  Either fearfully, or aggressively because this correction can and does hurt.  It's designed to.  But folks, there's a reason these tools are still so widely used.....they are cheap, easy to get, and it can work--sometimes Really well.  And having a professional show you how to do what I am trying to describe may be what you need.  Nothing wrong with that.  

If you've got a reactive dog on a choke chain, or a prong collar, and your "trainer" is allowing him to focus on the thing that stresses him out, while they tell you to issue stronger and stronger collar corrections, in the hope that it breaks his focus, I have bad news for you---It's going to create a stronger reaction from your dog.  It can, in some cases, actually increase the over-stimulation and make it even harder to get the dog to relax.....But that sounds like a whole other article :). 

Putting a bit more 'umpf' on it, as you turn to go the other way, however, is acceptable.  Remember: Looking at stuff is good (talk to your dog; encourage him), acting on stuff in not what you told him to do.  Those moments when they look at something, like another dog, or a person they aren't sure of, and they choose to react in an over-protect way, is when your 'pop' Absolutely Must become a 'pop' and Turn Away.

Breaking his focus on the thing he just barked/posted-up/lunged at, with a strong correction and a firm verbal "No!" as you turn him away, makes it easier for him to tell exactly What caused the correction, and the displeasure from You.

Only take him far enough away that you feel he can now focus on you, turn so he can see the 'thing' again, and resume whatever it was you were doing.

Body positioning is the biggest thing to remember here:  When he/she sits, placing yourself a bit in front of Dog, tells Dog that You are in control, and they can/should leet it go. This also makes it easier/more effective when you have to correct them for making mistakes.  Your rewards with praise/petting/snacks/etc immediately after a quick correction, then carries more weight, and its impact is something the dog seeks out.  They Need to work.  Showing them how is up to you.

If at first you don't succeed, don't keep ramping up the power behind the correction until the dog stops what he's doing.....Any animal will eventually stop what it's doing, if you hurt him bad enough.  We are not trying to hurt our dogs, just open a line of communication that both of us can understand.  When using this method properly, you will be surprised at just how many very small corrections you will use--These are meant to 'talk' to the dog, via his leash.  We don't scream and yell in a conversation; nor should you be using all your strength when you 'snap' that leash.

The How's and When's of using a choke chain to teach a Sit, Down, Wait or Stay are better done with a good Teacher, or with a great training book/video on the subject. The goal is to open clear communication between you and your dog, not simply to overpower him.  If you find yourself becoming angry, or overly frustrated using this tool, maybe it's time to reach out to someone and see if this is even the right method for you. 

For now, I will leave you with my as usual advice of Get in to a Class that suits you, hire a Teacher to come to your home, or research the proper way to apply this tool.  If this is the tool you have chosen for your training needs.  They take a bit of getting used to, but there is still a time and place, and a dog, for every tool.

Why Pay Someone to Teach You...When they don't...

 Greetings long-term fans and followers.  Thank you for handing in there with the ridiculous hiatus in posting:  It's been busy...to say the least.

As a matter of fact, this post pandemic frenzy has everyone excited to get some help for their "quarantine puppies" and "foster failures." More and more, as we all get back to working in person with you and your canine friends, I am seeing a bit of an unfortunate trend....People paying good money to "trainers" who work the dog, but seem to overlook the most important part of teaching a dog well:  His People.

  

I see owners struggling with wild behavior, and when I inquire if they'd be interested in some tips or help at all, it saddens me to hear "We already have a trainer, but he doesn't listen to me," or "He does great for the trainer, but we cannot get him to do anything!"  Or my least favorite....

                         "The trainer doesn't show us how to do it."

WHY:::????  Why is this acceptable?!?  There are many cases where, indeed, the Human hasn't mastered the skills, or the observance to help a pup keep it under control in a busy environment, or the pup IS truly a monster, but usually this says only one thing to me---Your "Trainer" is Ripping You Off.  Period.

Not showing you how to do the things necessary to teach your pup how to perform for You, is simply prolonging the training process, which means more money in their pocket.

Different story if you have elected to send your dog to a training school of sorts (in some cases, a fantastic plan; in others--You really don't know what is happening to your dog when you cannot see him.....).  This is understood that the trainer is not going to show you how exactly to teach each step, but it darn sure IS their job to make sure you understand how to maintain the behaviors your pup learned while there.

If I hire a plumber to fix a leaky pipe, I didn't hire them to show me how to do it.  However, if I decide I do want to know how to sweat copper, I'm going to hire someone (a teacher, for instance, cuz I'd be paying for a class) who will take the time to ensure I know how to use all the tools, and to be safe, and to get it done right. If this is the case, and every time I go to class, that person just takes the tools and does the thing, while I sit there and watch...I'm probably never going to learn how to do it 100 percent correctly.  And he's probably going to have to "show me" again and again and again.  If I am paying him for every time we meet, it's in his wallet's best interest to not quite show me how to do it alone.

But if that same teacher takes the time to start with "OK, this is 3/4" copper piping..." and makes sure I know what the heck I'm doing.....See my point? 

There are exceptions to this, of course.  But by and large, if you've been working with that "trainer" for more than 4 lessons, and you can't make your dog Sit...there may be something (or someone) else more suited to Equip You with the skills you are paying for.

It could be as simple as the way another Teacher communicates....You are not bound to the "trainer" you hired.  It is your right, as a paying customer, to find the product that works for You.  Go get it.

Dogs and Kids: Is Your Home Equipped?

Kids and dogs, they go together like peanut butter and jelly.  But this does not mean that your children should be allowed to stomp, accost, or otherwise treat your dog like a jungle gym.  Teaching mutual respect goes two ways--your children MUST learn to leave the dog alone at certain times: Your dog MUST learn that getting up to leave when he/she is overwhelmed, is an acceptable plan.  Showing children how to be gentle, and not invade the personal space of your canine friend, will help them grow into best friends, and avoid a potential bite.

In this weird time of Self-Quarantine we live in right now, I have seen the purchase and adoption of puppies, and grown dogs sky-rocket (this creates another anxiety-inducing problem in my Trainer-Brain, but we’ll talk about that another time).

 

Some dogs seem to have a built-in tolerance for all of the silliness that kids can bring.  But there are those out there, who just are not programmed this way. Regardless of the personality type your dog is, the following questions are geared towards helping create an environment where both your children, and your dog can feel safe, and respected in their body space.

Does your dog have a place to go, where the kids are not allowed ?  Yes No

Where is this located?____________________________________________

Does your dog have a bed/mat in each room that are NO Kid Zones?   Yes No

If “no” then create some.  Only having ‘his crate’ is not enough.

Where does your dog eat?________________________________________

Do your children understand how to touch/handle a dog?

Do they know the “NO Touch” places on your dog?

Ears

Eyes

Mouth

Tail

Anus

Genitals

Are there shared responsibilities for your children for the dog?  I.e. Do they help with feeding or cleaning up after the dog? Yes  No

Times you should leave the dog alone:

Eating

Sleeping

On his/her mat (no kid zone) or in his/her crate

Chewing a bone (these should only be provided to your dog while in his/her          crate, with the door closed securely)

Things to avoid:

Taking items directly out of the dog’s mouth.  We will work on this, but very young kids have a tendency to be grabby, and some dogs do not take to this well.  Teaching the dog to Trade for a treat, or a desired toy, can be a great way to help him relax about this.

Putting the dog in a situation known to be a stressor.  If a lot of activity, or loud playing causes your dog to make poor choices, you have to make some for    him/her: Putting the dog in another room, or in to the crate (no kid zone) when you cannot keep eyes, or hands on the situation can alleviate stress, and keep all involved safe.

Leaving the dog unsupervised with the kids.  No matter how tolerant your dog may be, there is too much of a chance for something to happen when very young children are involved. If you must leave, take the dog, or the kid with you.  Puppies are unpredictable sometimes, as are kids. 

Allowing the kids to “ride” the dog, or to climb on top of him when he is on his bed.  Yes, I am well aware that there really are dogs out there that will tolerate literally anything that a child will do to it... 

That does not mean that every dog will put up with this treatment.  Supervising your kids with the dog, and watching for signs of stress, can avoid gnarly situations.  Turning their head away, licking their lips, tucking the head, exposing their teeth, leaning away from that “hug,” or even growling, are ways your dog may be trying to communicate that they Need Your Help to get away from the situation.  

Dogs and Puppies also need individual time.  Making time to work with the pup when the children are not present is just as important as teaching him/her to work with the kids.  Puppies especially do not have good focus; the distraction of the children may interfere with learning at first. They will get better, as they grasp the subjects, but sneak in that training time.

That being said, always having a pocketful of snacks for the canine is a great way to enforce the sort of behavior you actually want to see when they are together.  If you catch the pup chewing on his own toy, instead of your toddlers, give him a snack. When you find the pup just hanging out with the kids and not treating them like a WWE match, snack time!

Rewarding things you want to see, and redirecting what you don’t, helps your pup make better choices.  It is OK to put the dog behind a gate, or in his kennel if you need a break. Your leash can also be a good way to help control the situation.  The goal is Safety, not Lockdown. 

 

I like to see a new dog, or a new puppy, as a furry two-year old:  You wouldn’t get mad at a two year old kid for making mistakes he isn’t aware of being “wrong.”  You’d either find something else for him to do, or stop him from killing himself, and point him off in a safer direction.

 “Nooooo no, Buddy...How about you let me have the saw blade--Where the bloomin’ hell did you even find that dude?...yeah, I know it’s cool.  But here, how about we check out this box of crayons instead?”  Same thing applies to having a puppy, or a new dog, around your children.

And lastly, please do not hesitate to contact that breeder, or call the rescue if things are not what you expected, or can handle.  It is literally Their Job to help those dogs/puppies find a suitable home that will be there for the life of the dog.  If you got your pup from a breeder or a rescue who won’t return your calls, or won’t offer the help you are seeking, start calling around.  Don’t feel like you are “Stuck” with a dog you and your household can’t handle. That is bad news for everyone. Sometimes, it just isn’t a good fit.  And Good Dog people know this. We will not judge you. We are here to help. 

Responsible breeders, and rescues, usually have a Return Clause as part of their purchase/adoption contracts.  Stating that no matter what the age, or circumstance, you can contact them and they Will take the animal back. No, it doesn’t mean you Gave Up.  It means you are enough of an adult to recognize that your family, and the dog, deserve a situation that Fits. That’s all.

The Short Walk

He needs more exercise.  

Yes.

However, if you are trying for leash-manners, that may not include a long walk.  If your walk looks like a wrestling match, or your pup is attempting to run the Iditarod with you in tow, then perhaps that is not the right kind of exercise.   There is not a lot of mental strain for a dog who isn't focusing on any behaviors that you ask of him.  He is in a reactionary state--he is simply Doing, instead of Thinking.  So how do we create a Thinker?

Begin by removing the "OH MY GAWD SHE HAS MY LEASH IN HER HAND!!!!" insanity that most dogs show you.  

They do this because every time you pick that leash up, you take him somewhere.  Pick the leash up, ignore him losing his mind, carry the leash around 'til he calms down, put the leash back on the peg...Now repeat until the dog looks at you with "Liar, we're not doing anything fun" written on his face.

Graduate to clipping the leash to  him and just letting him drag it around until he stops freaking out.  By breaking the process down in the manner, you will eventually get a dog who can Sit quietly for you to take out the leash, put it on, and now we go outside.

But before we try to go for an actual walk, maybe he needs to figure out how to follow you in the house.  Your house is boring to your dog.  I mean, we do the best we can.  We provide them with stuff to do; things to chew, treats to gain for tricks, etc, but they know every little corner.  Every smell is familiar, and there are no squirrels (wait...you have squirrels???) so it's easier to keep his focus on you. 

If you have an exceptionally wired pup, and you've gotten him to the boring stage, but every time you pick up the leash to try the next step, he loses it....that's ok.  You can either just stand there not making eye contact, and not talking to him until he relaxes, or you can drop the leash and walk away from him when he loses his mind.  I'm not at all kidding when I say that sometimes you have to break things down in to micro-bites of success for a hyper-pup.

Furniture makes great obstacles for you to walk around.  If your dog tries to get in front of you, simply go a different direction.  When you catch him in the right place--either just next to your leg with his head (not shoulders--you should be able to make both left and right turns without bumping in to him; meaning he is actually following you) reward him for being in the right place.  Treat him.  Feeding him while he is in the right position, and going the other way when he tries to lead you, starts to teach him what you want.  

"But Rose, I don't use treats.  My dog should listen to me because I am his Master.  And besides, he doesn't really like food rewards."  OK, then use LOTS of praise, and pet him on the ribcage (head can be over-stimulating) and be patient.  

Doing this leash practice in a non-stimulating environment makes this process go so quickly.  Even on a "crazy dog."  

Ok, are you ready to try this outside?  Boom! Everything you just taught him flew away and he thinks yanking you around is the thing to do. 

I watched a great video years ago (can't find it...i'm sorry) where this British trainer was teaching two insane labs to walk like polite pups on the leash.  When he reached the point of taking them outdoors, it took the yellow one more than 30 re-tries before she walked out the door at less than Mach-9.  My point is, be patient.  Very patient.  You may need to pull that pup back indoors a thousand times before they figure out the only way they are going through that door is nicely.

She got a piece of bratwurst for finally doing it right.  Tail wagging, they tried it again, and she was happily looking up at him...knowing that the reward was coming, and what was expected of her.

Shew, you made it outside.  Here's the short walk:  Do the exact same thing you taught him in your house, with the furniture.  Go up and down your driveway.  If you are doing well, maybe try two houses down, two houses back.  Use the trees.  Use the parked cars.  If you live in an apartment on the third floor, use the hallway and the stairs (be careful; stairs can be hell on canine knees) to illustrate that you are willing to do this a million times.

Ten minutes of quality walking practice in the driveway is more value for his mental stimulation, than a couple miles of reactionary out-of-control pulling you through the neighborhood.

You are going for quality over mileage.  Cuz' guess what?  You have a yard, or a long-line, that you can burn off some of that physical energy with, prior to your training session.  I suggest beginning and ending a training session with play.

Dogs live for play.  If they don't get to do fun things, they will choose what fun things they will do.  That means ignoring you.  Incorporate play into your training sessions too.  For those of you who give me the "we don't use food" I say Play More!!!  If you are using food, add Play as a supplemental reward. 

When my pup does something right, and he gets both a snack, and a chance to play with his friend (me) and we are jumping around and acting like fools together, he knows he has done the right thing for sure.  Be happy for them!  Show them they are great!  

There are exceptions to every rule.  You may try all these things and still feel like it's not working.  Contact a good Teacher and schedule a session to evaluate your unique situation.  Maybe your pup is not wearing the right piece of equipment for his individual personality.  

You may have a dog who does get over-stimulated when you incorporate excited play...that is a different conversation.

Your rescue pup may not be emotionally capable of what you are asking yet. 

Or maybe you are not physically able to jump around with him, that's OK.  There are levels of excitement that can work for everyone...you just have to be patient and figure out what works best for you and your pup.

So take those Short Walks.  

The "S" Word....

...No, not that one.

I'd like to talk about shock collars.

Now,  before y'all get righteous on me,  we aren't going to dissect how you may feel about their use in "training."  We are not going to get into whether or not you may feel they are abusive. Or if you think they're wonderful.

We are briefly going to talk about the automatic bark- control variety of these electronic collars.

We are going to simply share two things:

One;  those things pack a punch.  Most run of the mill,  bought-it-online or the-guy-at-petschmo said it was their bestseller collars are WAY too strong for your dog.

Two; very few people who strap these things to their animals read anything about what this can do to them behaviorally, or physically.

They don't follow the instructions past how to charge it, or how long you "should" leave this on your animal.

How does a long-haired coat, or a double-coat effect this tool?

Should your pet be unsupervised in this collar?

The collar itself (not the shock-box) is usually made of weather-proof, strong, plastic material, and Does Not Have a Quick Release,  or Safety Breakaway.... how many dogs are wearing these alone to chase squirrels in the backyard?

Or to wrestle with other dog friends? Have you ever witnessed a dog with its jaw hung up in another dogs collar?

Ok,  I lied... we are going to talk about a third thing.  If you aren't comfortable with gross pictures,  I suggest you read this, but do not look at the photos at the end.

The pictures are of two different dogs, from two different families.  They were the second and third victims to come to the same hospital facility in the same week. They came in on the same day,  not even hours apart. The first dog (not pictured) was in even worse shape.

The dogs have infected wounds on their throats from bark collars.  The collars were cinched tight (cannot get good connection with the electrode points unless it is snug)  and were not checked, or removed daily.  The collars obviously did not silence these dogs, as these wounds are from electric burns.  The infection is due to the electrode points sitting on those burns for a long time.

Most likely these humans did not know the collars weren't keeping them quiet, because these dogs were most likely left alone wearing them.

In the first photo,  you will notice the dog has four burn points.  One set looks a little less gooey than the other.  This tells me the collar burn was noticed, and the box was moved and re-cinched, or the dog managed to scratch the collar hard enough to change the contact point's position at one time.

The dog not pictured? The technicians who witnessed the removal of the collar described it as an open hole with "stringy puss" as they peeled the box out of the dog's neck.

The dog pictured :  The infected area expands almost two inches in any direction around those green goo filled contact point holes.

I know life is busy.  It's Christmas for goodness sake.  You've got family in town.  Babies to put down for a nap. People and places to be at and entertain with, but seriously???

If you choose to strap a heavy electric shock to your pet,  I would hope you have shocked yourself at least once at whatever level you have set it at for your dog (not kidding,  bark collars are the worst! Ow).  

I also hope you have decided after reading this, to check that thing.  Take it off your friend for at least 12 hours a day (close the dog door if it's a barking at night problem).

Move it around every few hours,  and change the collar type to breakaway for safety (you're not supposed to clip a leash to them anyway).

Or even better, figure out why your dog is barking and start working on that.  What kind of personality does your dog have?  Is he bored?  Does he spend all day in the backyard, with nothing but barking to do?

There are so many alternatives to this method of attempting to silence your pup's annoying mouth.  Maybe reaching out to a good Professional Teacher (of the dog-specializing variety) would be a good place to start.....

*pictures are below, keep scrolling....