Accidentally Breed Specific?

I am a member of several "pit bull" forums, and Facebook pages.  As you all are aware, I am a huge fan of those wonderful, sweet, loyal to a fault, meat-headed terriers.  I find it deplorable what has been done with them, to them, and about them in cities all across our "Land of the Free."  But lately, something else has begun to bother me.....

 .....In reading some of the "behavioral help" posts in these pages and forums, the members seem to think it necessary to specify their dog's breed every time there is a problem.  Perhaps it is a subconscious thing, but I don't see them boasting "Here's my 8 month old pit having a great time!" or "Here are my two pits playing tag..."  When it is good news, they refer to them as Dogs.

"here are my two dogs playing at the park today"

"Check out my dogs!"

"Here's my good girl getting her CGC badge! She is such an amazing dog!"

But when there's an issue, suddenly it's "My 11 month old pit growled at me today...What should I do?"  "My 2 year old pit is alluvasudden not getting along with my other dogs (who are, by the way, also pits, but not mentioned as such) ..."  "My pit keeps running away and won't come when called, how do I fix this?"  And so on...

This, in my opinion, is damaging over time.  Any dog can, and often does, do the things these dogs are presenting.  But when even pit bull lovers and advocates go out of their way to label them as "breed" they are accidentally being "breed specific."  They are, (again, my opinion...) opening the door for misled commentary from those who don't think these Dogs should be allowed the same kinds of freedoms that other breeds enjoy.  In putting myself in the ill-fitting shoes of someone who knows not the wonderful animals these terriers can be, I can peruse any of these forum questions or Facebook problems, and select a number of the "bad" behavior instances.  Then I can comparatively place these side by side with other "my dog does _______" issues from other places, and I could go out and say something ridiculous like Pit bulls are responsible for more specific instances of problems within the home, than any other breed mentioned....Why?  Because there are so many "specific" instances where the Dog is labeled for his breed, and not just simply as a Dog.

I understand this classification, if you have listed all the other dogs in your house ("we have four dogs, a Jack Russell, a Pit, a Ridgeback, and a Dachshund..") and you are being clear about which one of your dogs you are referring to.  

I guess what I'm ranting about today, is that You are already a member of a Pit bull forum.  You most likely do own a pit or three....we know that....Why feel the need to call them out, when they are just being Dogs?


Hi, I have an 8 month old male dog.  Yes, he's been neutered.  He is the only dog in the house, and he growled at me today while chewing a bone.  I was only walking by, not looking at him or anything.  What do I do?

Guess what......The answer to that inquiry is the same no matter what kind of dog you're dealing with.

What does Alpha mean?

Folks, I get to see a lot of dogs.  I meet lots of different personalities, and lots of variations on the perception of where that particular dog sits in the pack order.  What I see a lot of, unfortunately, are dogs who have been labeled "Dominant" or "Alpha," by people who either think bad behavior can be explained away by those terms, or by people who observed a more pushy pup, and immediately labeled it this way.

This is usually incorrect.
I know I have touched on this subject before, but the last time I did, we were discussing 'dominant.' This time, I'd like to talk about the word Alpha.  The word itself is Greek.  It is the first letter of the Grecian alphabet, and it has become a synonym for "first" or "top-dog" to the English speaking peoples.  In an animal society, the alpha is usually the highest ranking individual, or pair, and the other members of the society defer to them.  They commonly enjoy "firsts;" First to eat, most desirable mate, best place to sleep, etc.

In a dog's world, there are very few true Alpha's.  We have bred that tendency right out of them.  We have selectively bred our pets to defer to Us.  We are, in essence, the Alpha of the household.  Now, we can make mistakes, by not giving our dogs boundaries and not training them, and give the dog the unfortunate idea that we need them to assume the role.  But because we have done such a great job of removing their leadership capabilities, they are terrible at it, and thus, become "out of control," or socially unstable.  They make bad choices, but they are working with whatever they can.  Sort of like taking the weakest, most disorganized guy at the office, and suddenly making him a CEO.

A dog with a truly Alpha characteristic does not have to prove it.  They are usually aloof, and don't enjoy working for a person.  They are their own boss after all.  She shows up at the park, ignores the other dogs, and it seems she never shows belly, or submission of any kind.  You won't see many snarls and snaps, it's like the other dogs instinctively know she is not to be messed with.

But this kind of behavior can also be breed specific (take the Basenji--little dude is practically wild, and not very interested in doing anything that doesn't serve him) or even fear-based.  A dog who appears uninterested in being around Humans, or is rude to other dogs in a home, may be socially insecure.  A dog who refuses to work for you, may not be even close to Alpha, but rather he may just be trying to communicate that the method you have chosen is not compatible with him as an individual.

When the term was originally tagged onto canine packs, the scientists that were using it were observing captive wolves.  These wolves were not from the same family, and as a result, were presenting behaviors that were later proved to be very imbalanced from what a healthy, wild pack shows us.  Constantly trying to take the spot as 'alpha' is not what lower ranking members typically do.  Naturally they saw more fights than would present themselves in the wild; those wolves may actually have been too many high-ranking individuals from different packs, in one captive space.  Wolves in their own family unit work more cohesively than that.  These observations and the labeling thereof, have not completely cycled their ways out of the vernacular of some trainers, as they are still using old models for behavioral modification.  *see my article "Alpha What?!" from earlier posting*

In my opinion, it is true that you must be the boss in the relationship with your dog.  This doesn't mean that you have to physically dominate the animal.  This doesn't mean that, if you actually do have an "alpha" personality on your hands, you can't have a wonderful working relationship with that dog.  It just means you may have to work a little harder; be more on your game in certain situations. You will need to give your dog more "jobs."  If you have a dog who is constantly challenging you, or being too pushy, or is constantly attempting to "rule" the other dogs in your house, not only is that an insecure personality, you may be looking at a "Social Climber."

Social Climbers will never be satisfied with their position in the pack.  It won't matter what kind of structure you offer, this dog will always be trying to do things his way or the fight-way.  These kinds of dogs are even more rare then the so-called Alpha's.  And they are dangerous.  An 'alpha' is predictable.  The Social Climber not-so-much.

A dog who is constantly scrapping with your other dogs can also be suffering from the following:
Fear
Anxiety
Bully-syndrome (like the kid who takes your lunch money)
Lack of confidence
Not Enough Exercise
Resource Guarding
Lack of Pack Structure
Poor Nutrition
Genetic Issues, such as seizures, or neurological imbalance
Rage Syndrome (very rare, and still not scientifically proven to a satisfactory degree; but none-the-less, supported by some veterinarians, and shown to be more prevalent in certain breeds)
Poor Leadership from You
May not be cut out for living with other dogs, and is being forced to.....

You can see where blaming this on simply Alpha or Dominant is grossly incorrect.  Even that list is not complete.

A puppy who pushes his brothers and sisters around at the breeders, may be labeled "alpha."  He gets all the food first, he takes the best spot near mom, etc.  But that same pup may be a totally different guy when you take him home.  He may not be an "alpha" at all.  And just because he was pushing his brothers and sisters around, did not make him alpha.  He may be the most bold, or rambunctious, but at that age, it is very rare that someone can accurately label the grown potential of your dog's personality.  After all, it has been proven that how the animal is raised, trained, and kept, has a far greater bearing on your end result then what they come in with.  Sure, there are some things that genetically you will deal with, a shy or fearful pup for instance, or one that freaks out and bites to get his way, but these are things that can be behaviorally modified through proper handling.

So, the bottom line?
If you have a dog that someone has labeled Alpha...Perhaps it may be time to get a second or even a third opinion.  If the training approach that was presented to you is creating more stress, or the dog is just not getting better at all, it is time to reevaluate.

Kids, Pups & Training

Even the best laid plans can be laid to waste when you're not looking.  The level of energy a puppy can dish out, can sometimes seem like the perfect match for a busy household full of children.  At first, it may seem like you have made the 'best' choice in the Universe, to add a fur-kid to the mix...but, as a non-judgemental, observing professional, I offer some words of advise:

Wait until the kids are older.

If a puppy is what you really want, waiting 'til your children are old enough to have more physical and emotional control around a creature made for exploring with its mouth, might be a more peaceful choice.  Most kids past the age of 8 years old, make wonderful dog trainers, with the right guidance.  They can actually help you a lot with a puppy.  Think about it, that's one more pair of eyes to watch the pup.  That's another person who can put a leash on a puppy and take it outdoors to eliminate.  That is even a person who can help make sure the house (and their bedrooms) are more puppy-proofed.  Not to mention, these young adults-in-the-making are well past toilet training themselves, which means, no diapers for the dog to eat.


Smaller kids take a lot of work.  They take a lot of patience.  They take eyes in the back of EVERYBODY's heads to keep them safe and occupied.  If you must add a dog to this chaos, and I do believe in adding a dog, take a look at adopting an older dog.  One that has already moved out of the crazy stages of pooping in your house, or chewing your kids' toys to bits, or chasing them like prey.  A dog that is grown up and not really interested in treating your young daughter like a squeaky toy, because let's face it, when a puppy's needle teeth meet kid-skin the child is going to make lots of fun noises that will most likely prompt the puppy to do it again.


Adopting a dog who has already proven that they like children, makes it easier for you, as a parent, to truly enjoy watching your family grow like this.  You can also avoid the frustration of raising a young pup, who quickly turns into an adolescent, if you adopt an older dog.  In a pup's "teenage" stages (appx. 6 to 18 months of age; depending on breed and size) they will act much like any teenager, and challenge you.  They will begin to expand their idea of what "close enough" to you is, and the vast majority of them will make you wonder why you even attempted to train them, because obviously none of it stuck! *Fantastic time to sign your dog up for a Terrible Teens or Intermediate Obedience class*

Take heart, your dog is normal.  This is a great time to take a meditation class yourself, or at least take a few deep breaths and know that your pup does know what you're asking, they are just willfully choosing to ignore you.  This is the stage that finds a lot of unlucky dogs in the shelter, as it can wear a lot of people down and they simply give up on these dogs.  Couple this stage of life with children who are still in their toddling stages, like a 2 year old, and you can imagine how tough it can be to get your training to maintain the level of consistency it needs. 

Alright, so you've already added a puppy to the fray, and it seems the dog is not listening, or is becoming "aggressive."  Now What?!?
Check to see if you are allowing the kids to be with the puppy AT ALL when you don't have eyes on the pack.  Seriously.  You might think you have the world's best behaved, or sweet, or gentle kids, but I can almost guarantee, that the natural Human Being curiosity has led your kid to try something not-so-gentle at one time or another.  If we all came into the world without the need to learn "don't hit," or "no hair pulling" "do not bite your sister" "ears are fragile" "toys do not belong in there"....

 If you have kids who can speak a little (or a lot), watch that they aren't marching around demanding "SIT! SIT! SIT!" to a pup who just learned what Sit means.  This will make your training a waste of time, as the dog will most likely try to respond the first couple of times, but very quickly learns that it is just noise, and is not getting rewarded when they do respond. 

When teaching your pup, it may be a good idea to occupy the kids with something else, such as a movie or have an older person play games with them, so you can teach the dog what you want it to learn.  This way, you aren't attempting to get the dog to sit, while your kid races around being a HUGE distraction, or is touching the pup as you try to teach.  Again, this is a HUGE distraction, and most dogs cannot focus on you while this is happening, which can create frustration.

After the dog understand the cue, then perhaps you can be the reward dispenser/helper for the young child who wants to help.  The kid says "SIT!" and you help the pup to sit, and you give the puppy the reward.  Or, the child can reward the pup, provided you feel the pup won't accidentally bite the hand of said child....I usually ask very young kids to put the reward on the floor for the pup, and I hold the pup's collar until the child has stood back up, so the pup can get the reward without feeling like they must steal it from the kid.

 I worked with a very creative couple a while ago, who heard me talk about these things, and decided to teach their dog in a different language, so the children would not ruin what they were attempting to do.  This way, if the parents saw the child and dog heading for trouble, they had a way to intervene verbally that the dog had been taught to respond to.  And because the kid was busy doing her kid thing, and speaking English, this worked marvelously.


I am not saying the kid won't eventually figure out your 'coded' system of talking to the dog, but it may give you an edge in keeping the training consistent.  Children of a very young age do not have the developed observational skills needed to know when it is important to reward a puppy, and when to wait for the puppy to do what you've asked.  This is a more grown-up skill, and it is important that you, as responsible people, are not leaving the puppy with the kids unsupervised. 

You can start out with a perfectly good pup, and by accident, your children may turn her into a resource guarder.  Maybe when you weren't looking, your kid slapped the puppy on the head and stole the toy away from her.  The next time she took your child's toy, and she saw the kid coming, her natural instincts told her "i'm gonna get slapped again" so she growled, or maybe even snapped.  The kid stopped trying to take that toy (or worse, the kid escalated the level of violence in order to get the toy), and the puppy learned, "if i growl and snap, i get to keep things."  This goes on for a few times, before you see it happen one day, and now, you think you have an aggressive dog.
 
 Had this situation been supervised, it would have gone something like this:
The puppy stole your kids toy, you saw it, so you intervened, using "drop" and traded the puppy a treat for the toy.  Your kid got the toy back, and you rewarded the puppy for appropriate action.  After that, you gave the puppy something more appropriate to chew on, and your puppy learns "if i drop things, i get a treat!"

Realize, that if you have young kids, and are trying to raise a puppy at the same time, your training will take longer.  It will also be less perfect.  But that's ok.  If you can relax a little, and know that because you have so many other Human influences happening in your puppy's life, it is going to influence the training.  It effects everything.  But it doesn't have to ruin it.

Effectively Using "No"

What is this trend with not telling your dog "no"?  I understand that it comes from wanting to keep to the purest ideal of "positive" dog training, but I tell you what, I think it's bogus.

Let's talk about how to effectively use this small word.  I feel like it has been omitted from some training programs, and replaced with the much more annoying, "EH EH" sound.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but do you, as a grown, functioning, socially acceptable adult really want to be belting "EH EH" or "AH AH AH!" in front of strangers?  I know I don't.  I would much rather my dog respond to a calmly stated, "no" or even "no please" at a conversational level.

This means a few things to me:
1. My dog is paying enough attention to my voice that he is responding to that quieter tone, which means he is most likely in a better state of mind. 

2. I am not using a louder, more emotionally uncontrolled tone to gain his attention.  If I have done my homework correctly, he is also cued to at least look my direction at the sound of his name, so my calm "no," is going to work.

3. Since my use of this word, is more like how I would explain to a young child that whatever response they gave me wasn't right, this is more a marker than a correction.  Using no as a correction, sounds something like this, "NO NO! BAD! YOU IDIOT! YOU SHOULD BE AFRAID OF ME BECAUSE I'M SCREAMING AT YOU! I AM USING FEAR TO STOP YOUR MOTIONS!" or at least that's what I get out of something like the loud "EH" or "NO."

Even worse...Humans who scream their dogs names as correctives...  All.  The.  Time.  Get up and go get the dog....Stop screaming...Please....

When using 'no' as a marker, it becomes more of a tool the dog can use to 'correct himself.'  Take asking your dog to Sit.  If you have already taken the time to patiently teach the dog what Sit is, and you have seen the dog demonstrate a Sit for you in other times, you can use 'no' as a marker for not doing a Sit.  Example:  "Sit, Ubu.....(Ubu does not sit, but stares at me)...no...Sit...(this time, I help with a hand signal to remind Ubu what a Sit is)...Good...(i now reward Ubu for the sit).

 Or if you are calling your dog to you.  Say you know the dog understands what Come is, and you call her.  She begins to move towards you, but gets a little distracted on the way and begins to veer off to smell something.  If the dog is at this stage, you can say something little, like "No,..." and most dogs will have that lightbulb moment and resume their trek towards you, at which point you should immediately say "Good."  Mind you, your voice inflection matters A Lot here.  If you say "no" in a flat, lower tone, (not mean, just flat and firm) followed by a more upbeat sounding tone when you say "good," Sasha is more likely to be happily reminded of what she was doing.

I love this cue when working up to longer Stays as well.  When I've started them right, I can ask for a Sit, Stay, and if the dog stands up too soon...I say 'no' and I wait for it.  Most of the time, the pup will sit right back down (self-correction) and I can resume rewarding for good staying.  Rather than teach my pup that I will repeat myself with Sit Sit Sit, or Stay Stay Stay.

Provided you have taken time to teach your dog that a word like "good, " "yes" or "right" means they are doing the right thing, why not teach them a word that helps them learn that what they are up to might be off track?

Dogs are simple, but not stupid.  Using no as a marker, is sort of like playing that Warmer/Colder game.  "No," means change your course, "good" can mean continue, Sir. 

The second part of using 'no' effectively means you will follow up your word with touch of some kind, or body language, if necessary.  If your pup is getting into the trash, and you say "no," but do not follow it up with having the pup drop what's in his mouth, and then body blocking him away from the mess 'til he stops trying to pick up the scattered things, he most likely will not stop rummaging.  After you have stopped the foraging, and his attempted eating thereof, then you pick up the trash, call the pup away from it and decide to add Leave It to something you must work on around the trash.  Words without follow-through mean nothing.  With proper follow through, the next time you see him nosing near the can, you can simply say "Rossco, no..." and he should drop his nose from that trash can.  Then you can call him to do something more interesting.

Using 'no' as a catch-all is not the answer either.  Over-using, and yelling "no" all the time creates a dog who begins to hear you, but you become background sound that means nothing. When you use any word as a cue for some kind of action, even if that action is to cease existing action, you must attach cause and effect.   Remember, we are trying to expand our dogs learning, and therefore their cognitive abilities.

"No" is simply a marker word for "not quite what I wanted," or "try again Bub."  It also is a warning of sorts..."no" means I am about to get out of my chair, and come move you off of whatever it is you are into, so you now have a choice; are you gonna stop it, or am I getting up?

'Tis the Season.....

Every year, like clockwork, I start to get more and more personal texts and emails about dogs needing homes.  The chaos of Christmas is upon us, and yes, I know you and your family are under a lot of stress.  This stress can sometimes lead us to believe that we need to "find a new home" for the family pet.  Sometimes, it's for legitimate reasons, sometimes it's a simple training or boarding problem, but most of the time, it adds up to some poor dog being dumped at a scary shelter, where he knows No One, and has no idea what he did to end up there.
 

He is alone.









Shelters fill up this time of year folks.  And to add to this misery, Christmas puppies are coming.  The annual rush that uninformed Humans feel to "Give" someone a dog.  Please don't do this.  Buying a puppy for Christmas is not only risky, you are most likely supporting a puppy mill situation with your money. 

I won't harp that point to death (there are plenty of organizations and individuals doing that right now), but I will say this:
If you feel you absolutely MUST give someone a dog for Christmas, how about giving them a gift certificate that says you will pay the adoption fee for a pup They get to choose, from the local Animal Shelter. 

Now they have a choice.  If getting a dog is something they actually want to do, as in, they want to sign up for the 12-19 year commitment that is an animal's life, they can now go get one they actually want.  And if they don't want a dog, you can still offer to donate that adoption fee.  Orrrrr get them a ski pass, whatever. 

I work with a few people, right now, who have told me things like "I had no plans to get another dog, but when I got home, there was a puppy," or "We had planned on traveling, now that the kids are gone, but our daughter bought us this guy..."  These are people who realized they were now saddled with another responsibility, and didn't have the heart (thank goodness) to dump it, and didn't want to hurt the feelings of the Giver.

Those dogs are the lucky ones.
Most unwanted "gift puppies" are relegated to unfulfilled lives in the backyard, or tied on a chain.  Treated badly, or worse.....

There are some requests that break my heart.  I am looking for a placement situation right now, for two dogs who belong to a gentleman who has been diagnosed with terminal cancer.  He has cared for his "girls" for 7 and 8 years.  They are his family.  He is worried about what will happen to them after he departs this earth; he has less than three months to live, according to his doctors.....I am praying for an angel. 

This time of year, everyone wants that "gift puppy," no one wants two dogs together that aren't cute anymore.

Please don't buy anyone a surprise pet this year.  Think of other ways to give it, before running out and dropping a thousand bucks on a dog that was most likely birthed to a mother living in a cramped cage, out back in a shed, without heat, light or love.....

oh, and if you are that Angel...Please contact me
r.coffmandt@yahoo.com

Training for People

Let me give you a word of both caution
and encouragement.

Say this out loud please,
if you want to play this game.

We are all not as fast as Milan.
We are not as patient as Stillwell.

Now I want you to exchange the
word "we" with "you" and try it
again.

You are not as fast as Milan.
You are not as patient as Stillwell.

Ok, one more time, only this time,
we say "I."

I am not as fast as Milan.
I am not as patient as Stillwell.

Did you feel differently each time
you made those statements?
Do you notice the change?

Good.

Now you know how your energy
effects your dog.

hopefully

*referring to Cesar Milan, the "dog whisperer" and Victoria Stillwell of Positively Dog Training, and "It's Me or The Dog"

The Holidays are Coming! The Holidays are Coming!

For most of us, the impending time of chaos and glittery things and family visits can be a wonderful, magical time of year.  For my frightened dog, it could be a nightmare.  It doesn't have to be.  I am putting long hours in helping him be better, so I'm taking steps to make sure he doesn't backslide this Christmas. 

If you are facing a holiday season with a nervous or anti-social animal, here's a few ideas on how to keep his state of mind in the "good zone" and not in the "oh mah gawd! They're All Here To Kill Me, I Know It!" place.

1. Do not bring your scared guy with you when you visit the relatives house, if you can help it at all.  Keep your nervous dog in familiar surroundings, and not worry yourself with what "could" happen if so-and-so did this.....

If those relatives live out of town, hire an in-home pet-sitter, or send your dog to a friend (who they are already well familiar with) you trust for the time you are away.

2. If you have visitors to your own home, hide your doorbell.  Seriously.  Remember that conversation we had about Doorbell Insanity?  Mine's getting better, but repeated intrusions from those pesky invaders might set me back a bit at this stage, so I'll be hiding the button under some decorations.  If the weather allows, open the inner door, so your visitors can be seen arriving through the screen or glass door.  This gives you time to do whatever you need to, in order to keep your dogs calm.

3. Speaking of keeping your dogs calm, you may be better off sequestering them in another room for the duration of the party.  Give them something to do, such as a yummy bone or a stuffed and frozen Kong toy (in separate rooms, or kennels for safety if your dogs have ANY propensity for playing the "mine!" game), and put some kind of background noise on.  The television or a radio playing can help mask some of the noises from the rest of the house, and coupled with that yummy bone, they may just think that's a better place to be anyway.

Not only does this calm separation benefit your canine's mind, it will also assuage any fears your guests might have of your dogs.  Sure, your dogs are members of your family, and you love them, but not everyone feels that way.  And unless your dogs have perfect manners, as in, they do not invade the personal space of strangers at all, and can keep their cool, then perhaps you can think of your guests comfort, and remove the dogs.

4. Should you feel you want your dog to be a part of the party, and are at all concerned about his reactions to said environment, leash him.

Keeping him tethered to your side can be a great way to enforce obedience and polite manners, if you are teaching them.....You are teaching them, aren't you? 

This is a fantastic way to introduce him to multiple, different people, and still enforce the Sit politely for petting scenario.  Be sure to speak out on his behalf to your guests too!  Tell them he is learning not to jump, paw, accost, stuff his muzzle into their crotch, whatever, but explain your intentions before you allow your guests to do the ol' "ooooh he's sooooo cuuuuuute!!!!" all over him.

5. There is food everywhere, so Watch Your Dog.  I know, I know, every dog writer brings this up every year, but the increase that veterinarians see in worried owners saying things like "He ate a pound and a half of chocolate covered espresso beans!!!" or "She stole the turkey carcass!" or "Uncle Joe gave him too many beers!" is frightening. 

Should your dog be the thieving kind, a leash is a must!  Or baby-gates to keep them out of the food prep and serving areas.  Little kids dole out all kinds of forbidden treats, simply because they are shorter and more willing to share.  Candy canes hung too low on the tree are fair game, in the dogs opinion, so do your part to keep your dog safe from these things.

6. Alright, so you have a dog who can't handle more than one or two visitors at a time....But the family is visiting....Perhaps sending him to stay somewhere wouldn't be the worst idea in the world.  So long as he is comfortable, and safe with whomever you send him to, remember, his mind is as much your responsibility as is the rest of him.  Do what you feel would be best for him.

Obviously avoiding the scenario altogether won't help him get any better, but if you are not prepared to work with the dog, or talk to your guests about the dog, then find him a place to be.

7. Walk the Dog!  :)

Again I bring up the importance of exercise on the nervous dog's mind.  This goes for not-so-nervous dogs too.  If you're meeting the physical requirements your dog has, his mind has a better chance of processing things in a more "normal" and healthy fashion.  This increases your chances for a calm dog, or one that may surprise you with the strides they are making.

So in the midst of the cooking, baking, visitors, decorating, and other chaos, take some time out and go for a walk.  It will help you calm yourself, and it will breathe new life into what seemed like an overwhelmingly frustrating affair.

But I live where it is just too cold to go for a long walk.
That's ok, you can still find ways to exercise your pup.  Practice some obedience or tricks for about 20 minutes at a time.  If you have a long hallway, you can toss toys or a soft ball.  Play tug o'war.  Take your dog into a private room and play "Find It."  Dig out your copy of "101 Dog Tricks" by Kyra Sundance, and choose a new thing to begin learning.

My brother had an inventive method of exercising his large dog when it was cold:  He would tell the dog to go upstairs.  When the dog did so, he asked for a Sit at the top.  Then he'd call the dog back down the stairs, and ask him to get into the Heel position and Sit again. This went on at least 10 minutes.  You try that and tell me how tired you are at the end....Of course, he spent time beforehand teaching this nonsense to his dog, but you get the idea.

8. Take the time to show your dog it's not as scary as they thought.  I have a dog who is mentally imbalanced.  He doesn't handle changes too well.  If you move a piece of furniture, he won't enter that room, unless leashed and led and patiently allowed to sniff out the change.  This goes for decorating, and the tree and all that stuff.  None of it is up yet, as it isn't quite Thanksgiving yet, but I am preparing for the extra time it will take for him to be acclimated to these changes.  You should have seen his reaction to a snowman last year!!!  Sadly hilarious!

Being patient is the greatest gift I can give him this time of year, and any time of year.  Taking the time your own dog needs to work through, or work around whatever nerves or reactions they may have during this craziness, will ultimately be a Win for you.  As always, if your dog's nervous nature causes her to lash out, work with a professional and do your best to Not put her into those situations.  Be safe.

Equal Rights for All?

Every time I open my inter-webs connection lately, someone is crying for an "end to inequality."  I see newscasters talking about discrimination and racism, and how we all must band together to "fight" these horrible things that shouldn't exist in 2014.....

I agree.  Completely.
But if you ask those same people how they feel about "pitbull" type dogs, too many of them are too quick to condemn.

These same, so-called educated and intelligent Humans will spout nonsense about how they will "turn" or how they are "inherently vicious," but most of them have never known one.  Most of them can't even identify what a "pitbull" is, but they hate them all the same.

That's racism.

That is discrimination.

That is taking someone else's word that something is "evil" and "dangerous."

There are so many incidents of college "frat-house" rapes.  These happen every day.  Do I get to go around saying that All College Boys Are Rapists?

For those of us old enough to remember the fights for Civil Rights, can you recall the blatent hatred of anyone with a different color skin?

Does anyone remember the Japanese camps in Colorado?  *Look it up*

What about how women are treated and paid in today's workforce?  We're willing to fight for our own right to equal and fair treatment, but we allow the media to tell us to live in fear of a dog.

How about those NFL players.....Should I automatically assume that only the "black" ones fight dogs behind everyone's back, and the "white" ones rape women?  Of course not; that Person responsible chose to do those things.  And what a fine example we set for our kids:  Do those heinous acts, and if you have enough money to pay a good lawyer, and you are famous enough, you will not only STILL keep your job, but you will make MORE money in endorsements than you ever dreamed of!

Judging the acts of a few, and saying it is the way of the many is unfair.  The unfortunate things that happen to these dogs is disgusting.  It is a People Problem.  It is irresponsibility gone to fruit, and if we do not address the Humans, the "dog problem" will never go away.......no matter what sort of ineffective "ban" is put into effect.

An African-American is only a person.
A woman is still a Human Being.
A pitbull is just a dog. 

Tools: The BackPack

How many times have you seen an over-enthusiastic dog with a pack on?
That's right, not very often.  That's because he is focusing his mind on something other than jumping around and acting the fool.  Not to mention, it can be a great way to add intensity and more work to a dog's walk:  It wears him out faster.

Now, not all dogs are cut out for wearing a pack and carrying their belongings around.  Some breeds, such as the long-backed Dachshund or the light of bone Italian Greyhound, may wind up with injuries from attempting such a thing.  But some, like the Labrador, or the Bernese Mtn. Dog, and your uber-strong bully breeds, are just made for this activity.

But, like any Tool, you get what you pay for. 
Some packs are made out of materials that would wear out too quickly, or do not fit correctly.  So let's look at some of the finer points to choosing a good pack for your pet.

The first step in getting some gear for your guy is to measure him.

It is important to measure these three points in order to pick the correct size for your dog.  A pack that is too large, or slides around while walking, will not be comfortable. 

The idea is to make this a fun activity; something you both can enjoy.  If you've ever tried to go for a walk in shoes that are too big for you, you can guess how uncomfortable an ill-fitting strap or three would be. Chaffing and sores are not fun.

The fourth place to measure is the chest of your dog.  Some packs that seem right around the girth (make sure you are not measuring behind the ribs; rather just behind the forelegs) may not fit across the chest.  Finding a chest strap that properly fits a thick-bodied dog, can be challenging. 

Look for a pack that offers a lot of adjustability, or search for one that comes in "custom sizes," if you are running into this issue.

Not the proper fit at all.  Notice the pack is waaaay far back, and the chest strap digs into the dog, due to it not having a "y" connection.  While this pack has a handle, it would be very uncomfortable for the dog.

The second thing to take into the 'fitting' account, is how big the saddle bags are.  Ideally, the bags should not extend past the ribcage on the dog (long ways), and should not hang more than an inch below the elbow.  Should this be the case, it will restrict the dogs' freedom to move, and/or the weight can cause spinal issues.

Speaking of weight, please do not overload your pup.  Start with an empty pack.  Let the dog get comfortable wearing this contraption, well before you go loading it up with weight.  Dogs are much stronger pullers, than they are capable of carrying on their backs.  No more than 15-20% of their total body weight should ever be loaded into the packs saddlebags.

Keeping the weight evenly distributed is also important.  If you have an imbalanced pack, the pack will be pulled to one side.

Look for a backpack that offers a "Y" shaped chest piece. This helps with fit, and also keeps the pack more centered on the dog's body.  Again, you get what you pay for here. 

Other features of a good pack will most likely include the option to remove the saddlebags, leaving the harness piece on the dog.  Also, a strong handle on the harness piece.  This makes it easier for you to lift your dog, should he get himself in a bind.
A good pack will have padding.  This padding should be on the straps as well as the harness part of the pack.  The more cheaply made products will not only fit weird, but also will not be padded and your pup will not appreciate carrying things in that. 

Think of the money you invest in good hiking and camping equipment for yourself.  Why would you be satisfied with anything less for your best friend?

A Night in a Puppy Pen

I've been known to want to understand my dogs to such a degree, that I will lay on the floor and watch the world from their perspective for hours.  It's an interesting thing to experience how the world may look to a dog who is tiny, or young...Things you may not think are frightening, may indeed be HUGE monsters at first.  I also stress that we are not dogs, but for the purpose of this posting, I wound up in a situation that put me front and center inside a Tool that every Human owning a young dog should have:  A Puppy Pen.

 On a visit to a friend, we erected the puppy pen around my sleeping area.  There are rambunctious kids and a rather large, wonderful dog roaming the house.  In order to allow me to sleep in and not be "dog-piled" at dawn, we set up the pen.  What I found was a sense of peace.

 My area was at first a curiosity, (what is it about kids and air mattresses?!) but quickly, both canine and human pups grew bored of sniffing the edges, and found more interesting ventures.  My things were not disturbed, or slobbered on, and I found that even the adults left me be when I crossed the fence-line into my space.

I slept wonderfully in this little confinement.  And it made me think of how a young dog might feel after a tiring day of playing and chasing and otherwise being a pest.  To be suddenly put into his pen, with his comfortable bed, some toys, maybe a chew and something to drink.  It would seem a welcome relief (provided you are taking the time to teach your dog to be alright without your presence always hanging over it).  A peaceful place to crash, without the kids bothering him.

From the perspective of Dog Guardian, it is also a wonderful thing to be able to give a young dog (or a newly adopted one) some space to stretch her legs and chew in peace, without worry about what they are doing.  It keeps a dog out of her kennel, but safe from the numerous things that a dog can find to get in trouble with. 

So long as you are "puppy proofing" the area, a puppy pen or a baby-gate across a doorway, can set you up for peace.

A basic puppy proofing includes cleaning the floor.  Anything that CAN fit in a pups mouth, WILL wind up in a pups mouth.  Dust bunnies do not provide the proper levels of fiber to qualify as part of a balanced canine diet.

Preferably, your puppy pen should not be set on carpeted surfaces.  This is too easy for the pup to ruin, and harder to clean.  If you must set it on carpeted areas, line the bottom with a painters drop cloth (the plastic backed/canvas front kind) and make sure you have secured it so it cannot become a toy.

Apply bitter apple or other chewing deterrent to any and all exposed furniture legs, decorative wood, window sills, etc.

Provide appropriate things for the pup to chew on.  I am not talking about a frozen raw bone, we mean something more like a nylabone with a little peanut butter smeared on it, or a stuffed, frozen Kong toy.  Things that are "crate-safe" are ok to be in the pen unsupervised.  Toys with rope, or that can be torn to bits, are not safe.  Your dog could ingest them, and cost you a pretty penny to have removed.

A nice place to rest.  Some pups and dogs cannot handle being left alone with a cushy dog bed.  Make sure your dog is not a "destroyer" before you place items like that in there.  A non-stuffed blanket folded to make it thicker, or a kuranda bed might be a good plan for a while.

A water bowl that cannot be tipped over, fallen into, or otherwise cause problems for your dog.  Nobody likes to sleep wet.

Check on your pup often.  Even in the "safest" of set-ups, dogs are masters at getting themselves into a jam.  Make sure you aren't just sticking the dog in the pen and forgetting about them.  A puppy pen can provide the haven both you and your dog are seeking, but as with any Tool in the dog owners garage, use it wisely.

Breed Matching Quizzes: Why they are only part of the Equation

 As not only someone who teaches dogs and their humans, but as a straight up, card-carrying canine addiction sufferer, I decided to take Five of those online Dog Breed Matching Quizzes.  I did this because recently, I began working with a well-meaning Human who had chosen his dog based on the results of those tests.  To put it lightly, it is not an ideal set-up for Dog, or Human.

Now, I do have a preferred breed.  Three of them in fact.  I know what I like in a dog.  I was raised in a home that bred, and showed St. Bernards (in case you're wondering, I am not excessively “in” to them), and have been exposed to many, many different dogs in the course of my career.  I am familiar with a LOT of different breeds, and characteristics.  Both the Good, and the Bad.

So, in this vein, I decided to approach this little experiment as someone who was “searching” for the “right kind of dog” to suit my lifestyle.  I went at this with the steps I feel anyone should take, if looking for a purebred animal. 

 First, I took 5 Breed Matching Tests from five different websites.  I answered the questions about grooming, my home size, the existence of children, time available for play and training, etc.  These are the results.

Dogtime.com presented me with these as Top 5 candidates:

1. Kuvasz
2. Newfoundland
3. Brittany
4. English Cocker Spaniel
5. English Setter

Purina.com

1. Chesapeake Bay Retriever
2. Dogue de Bordeaux
3. Doberman
4. Chinese Shar-Pei
5. Chinook

AnimalPlanet.com

1. Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
2. Australian Cattle Dog
3. Australian Shepherd
4. Belgian Tervuren
5. Border Collie

DogBreedInfo.com

Uh, they came up with 499 options for me....

Optimum.com (a European Veterinary Site)

1. Boston Terrier
2. Border Terrier
3. Staffordshire Bull Terrier
4. Welsh Corgi
5. Australian Terrier

Guess what...Only 1 of my preferred dogs appeared, and on only one site.   Ok, moving on.  Next, I did some research on a few of the dogs “recommended” for me.  The information coming up was mostly good things.  Having worked with many of the breeds up there, it was beginning to worry me that most of the sites appearing, said nothing of “problem potential.” 

The AKC's website, as long as you examine the 'official breed standard' came the closest to honestly representing temperament disqualifications.  If you just type the breed name in their search, however, the summary version of the dog's description does not mention anything negative.

So now what? 

Well, then I began looking at some breeder websites for a few of those top 3's from the recommended dog breeds.  Naturally, as most of these breeders (unfortunately) are looking for money over quality, I stumbled upon sites that praised their dogs mercilessly!  They are beautiful!  Smart!  Easy to Train!  Great with Family!  Protective!  Loyal!  Or what-have-you....The number of sites presenting any information about potential issues, was appallingly low. 

There were some, in my opinion, who were obviously not interested in ever getting any of their dogs back; meaning, they were warning you.  Presenting both the good and the “bad” about their dogs temperaments, in a way to ensure you knew what you were getting into.  Kudos.

Ok Google... “What are the bad qualities of the ____(insert dog breed here)___?”

Ok Google... “Aggression in the _____(dog breed of choice)____?”

….........wow...........now I'm seeing a side of these dogs they chose for me that the other sites weren't presenting.  To be fair, not all of this is truth.  But if I look at this from the perspective of someone who knows nothing about these dogs, this might be a good warning.  If you are unprepared to deal with some of the behaviors that your “chosen” breed might present, perhaps that might not be a good match after all.  Any dog can show you a side of him you don't want to see, and most behavioral issues can be prevented, or helped with proper handling.  But if you aren't the sort of person who wants to fight something that may be a “breed trait,” choose wisely.

Now, if I were really looking for any of these dogs, the next step would be to start calling some of the more thorough breeder sites.  Begin talking to these breeders, talk with them about myself, and my life, and the time I have to give to my new dog, and see if they still agree with those Matcher Quizzes.  If they actually do, now I need to go meet some of this breed.

I have to take time out of my life to locate clubs, or go to dog shows.  But wait, isn't there a dog park near my house?  I can just go there and see if there are any of these dogs attending...Wouldn't that suffice?

Not entirely.  Remember, you are only going to meet one or two, if you're lucky.  Dogs, just like Humans, are not going to fit the mold of their family heritage every time. 

Take for example, the Bernese Mountain Dog I work with.  Usually, you can count on these dogs to not be stubborn, and be pretty easy to work with.  They are loyal, sweet babies who really and truly cannot live without their families close by....This guy?  He checks out into la-la land and ignores everything and everyone, to exert his independence.  Not something you see in their breed too often, but there it is.  His family even said that the breeder they got him from, warned them that he'd give them trouble.  Well, at least the breeder knew what they were about to saddle themselves with.

Ok, so now that I've talked to breeders, I've weighed the behavioral consequences, I've met dogs, and I've decided to give it a go with one of those dogs.  To the Pet Store!

NOOOOOOOO!

Do not buy a pet store puppy, just because it is easy to get.  You cannot see its parents.  You do not know what kind of genetic flaws, in both body and mind, you may be purchasing.  You have no idea where that dog came from.  You don't know if that “reputable” breeder the store clerk swears they buy their dogs from, is a good, well-kept, clean, non-puppy mill situation...You just don't.  There are too many variables.  Not to mention, you are supporting an industry that thrives on ignorance.  Impulsively purchased dogs are never a good idea.

Here's my logic:

If you are willing to shell out $1200 for a puppy, then you may just have the means to save another $1200 to take a mini-vacation and visit the breed you want.  Or better, be patient, find a dog show coming to your town, and go meet some people.  Go meet lots of dogs from your settled upon breed.

Alright, so what if spending upwards of $3000 might feel like quite the investment, and you still want "That" kind of dog? 

Does the thought of shelling out your hard-earned cash to someone who may be only interested in money, and not the lifetime well-being of a thinking, feeling, conscious being sort of makes your stomach hurt? 

You might be prepared to offer a lifetime of good care and proper training, but what about the other 10 puppies in that litter?

Easy:  Adopt.  Literally, save a life.

Did you know that most shelters offer a "Purebreed wait list"?  If something in particular has caught your fancy, and you've spoken with educated Humans who have worked with, or raised that particular type of dog, you can get on a wait list for that kind of animal at your local shelter.  Dogs of pure breeding show up in shelters a lot.  Usually, these are perfectly fine, healthy animals who have wound up there due to the ignorance or impatience of the Human who impulsively purchased them.

Not to mention the savings!!!  A purebred dog from a shelter, or a foster situation might cost between FREE and $400. 

Here's what you get for that:

A vet check and a clean bill of health.

Vaccinations.

Spay or Neuter.

De-worming treatment.

And usually a whole bunch of support for AFTER you bring the dog home.  The adoption packet from our last addition came with a free training class, a 24 hr helpline, a free vet visit from a loooong list of included providers, and a TON of information to help that dog transition into his new home.

"But we want a puppy!  We don't want to 'fix' a dog with issues."

No problem, whole litters show up in shelters.  The sad fact that the United States euthanized more than 2.7 million animals in 2013, should be enough to shift the tide on where we get our animals, but at the present, it isn't.

If picking a dog from a shelter, not knowing anything about it, or what happened to it, or what kind of behavioral "stuff" you might be bringing home doesn't sound like a good plan, there is also the foster option.  There are millions of dogs living in Foster Homes just waiting for you to check them out. 

The great thing about an adoption network that works from foster homes, is that your next best friend is already experiencing what it is like to live in a home.  He is most likely living with other animals, and being exposed to many things that help him learn to be a great member of Your family.  This is usually the route I suggest, if you have intentions to adopt an older dog (Yay!) and have other pets, or children in the house.  A dog's foster family will have a better idea of Who He Is, then the animal shelter might.

Don't get me wrong, I am not discounting choosing a shelter dog.  But if your life includes small people in it (kids), it may be wise to go the foster way. 

Or hire a professional to do shelter shops for you.

You've never heard of a shelter shop?  Well, they are a great way to avoid your sweet kids hearts breaking when an interview dog doesn't quite fit the bill.  Basically, you hire a professional "trainer" to go to the animal shelter; either with you, or without.  You give them the parameters as to what you are seeking, and they go and interview potential candidates.  This is a great plan, if you are a sucker for a cute face, or you are inexperienced with dog behavior, or you just want to get the opinion of someone unbiased.

Dogs that are living in shelters are not "damaged goods."  Most of the time, they are fantastic creatures who fell on unfortunate circumstance *cough-badhumans-cough* and would make amazing family members.

Eddie (a.k.a.Moose) the Jack Russell Terrier from T.V.'s Frasier?  Shelter Dog.

Benji (a.k.a. Higgins)? Rescued from a California shelter.

Xena the pitbull who was found starving and scarred all over, in Dekalb County GA?  Literally skin stretched over bones...I'll spare you the photo.  She is now an assistance dog for a little boy with autism, and just received a Hero Dog award.

Jake the Black Lab who found/rescued people after the September 11th bombings, and then again after Hurricane Katrina, was also a shelter find.

The list is long folks.  There are gems out there.  Don't just let some fancy website talk you into a sight unseen purchase you may not be ready for.  Educate yourself.  Volunteer at adoption centers; you may find the breed that has caught your eye, suddenly is all wrong, and you've fallen madly in love with a wonderful mutt who needs you.

In short, taking the advice of a computer quiz who doesn't really know who you are, or how strong/weak your personality is, or the kinds of people you have in your life, is not the finished equation.....

The Staffordshire Bull Terrier, was the only one on those lists that actually is one of my preferred breeds.

Reputable? or Backyard.....

So, you think you've finally narrowed the field and have settled on a __(insert dog of choice here)___ to add to your life.  How do you choose where to get said pup?

Well, let's look at the pros of using a Reputable Breeder.

A Reputable Breeder is someone who not only cares a whole damn lot for their animals, but has invested more then just money to create them.  I am talking about Breeders who are investing time to provide proper veterinary care (if the ears/tails/dewclaws are of the cropped/removed variety, are they doing it themselves?! With Scissors?), housing and follow-up on the puppies they sell.  Some of the best even offer on-site training for your new dog.

A Reputable Breeder welcomes you to 'check out' their facility.

note the heated/insulated houses; the clean floors.

A Reputable Breeder is known in their community for their quality dogs, and cleanliness.  Some of the best breeders actually raise the dogs in the house!

Though I am not a huge fan of the child being in with the momma, note the cleanliness and the protective bumpers to keep momma dog from accidentally squishing a pup that wanders too close to the edge.  This is a conscientious set-up.

Reputable Breeders do not "use up" female dogs.  They usually selectively breed a few years apart, to save the health and longevity of their animals.  This practice may mean one litter a year from one particular dog, or fewer.  They also will be careful not to in-breed their animals.  Knowing the lineage of your puppy, and knowing that he is not also his sisters mate, will make for a dog with fewer health problems.

When using a Reputable Breeder, you are making a sound investment in your next canine companion.  The breeder makes themselves available to answer your questions, and may have many more to ask you before they want you to even come to visit their dogs.  You may even find yourself on a waiting list, if this is indeed what dog you want.  Most Reputable Breeders do not have puppies available all the time; that is wasteful.

Most Reputable Breeders are taking the time to socialize, handle, and expose their litters to some of what life will bring them.  This extra care makes your job as a puppy raiser much easier.  Ask the breeder of choice which vet they use, and call that vet clinic.  Inquiring about the breeder will help you choose the right one.

How do you know if you are looking at a Reputable Breeder or someone we refer to as a Backyard Breeder?  I mean, check out that website!!!  Those dogs look happy, healthy and clean.  They are running around in the snow (or a grassy field) and seem to be having a great time.  And wow(!) those 'posted up' shots---Look at his muscle tone; how shiny her fur is!  And look....they have puppies available NOW, with only a $100 (I've seen upwards of $320 deposit for 'designer' mutts) deposit.....

On the other hand, a photo can tell you a lot of bad things too.

 The trouble is, people keep buying puppies from backyard breeders, so backyard breeders keep making dogs.  And yes, I do understand that every "purebred" available, was at one time, considered a 'mutt.' But we're not looking at the "creation" of "new" breeds (at the moment....that's coming soon), we are examining the things you want to look for when choosing a Reputable Breeder.

Do they have older dogs available too?

Do they have a purchase contract?

What is their policy on spaying and neutering if you plan on keeping this animal as a family pet?

Do they offer co-ownership if you plan to show?

If this doesn't work out for you, will the breeder take the dog back?

Are they well-known in their dogs' sport (if the dog is meant to do a sport)?

Have they been inspected by a state approved health agency recently?  What was their score?

If the animals you are looking at require it, do they come with a certificate of passing on any hip/eyes/bone/or cerebral screenings?

Do they have a facility you can meet them at, check out the dogs, meet the parents...Or are they asking you to meet them at some parking lot near it?

Do they want to interview You as a potential candidate for becoming a guardian of one of their animals, or do they just want the money?

These are extremely important things to examine, if you are "shopping" for a puppy online.  Anyone can make a great website.  Anyone can steal photos of someone else's healthy dogs and post them as their own...Even worse:  Anyone can clean a dog who normally may live in squalor, and make him look great for a photograph.  Puppy Mill puppies are adorable!!!

But their parents usually live in conditions that make 3rd world countries look like the Grand Hilton.

Buying a dog, sight unseen, is risky.  Not only do you run the risk of purchasing a poorly bred and potentially sick animal, you also have not the slightest clue about the temperament of its parents. Most puppies get a strong dose of personality from their mother, and without meeting her, you may be in for a hurricane of issues.

Nor does the AKC (American Kennel Club) registration paperwork prove anything about the condition of the dogs.  The AKC is simply a registry for purebred dogs.  Yes, they have certain standards to uphold, but those can (and unfortunately do) get bent to suit the greedy all the time.
The person may have started with two dogs they purchased from a Reputable Breeder, but that investment, for them, was piddly.  They can take two healthy dogs, boast about their pedigree, breed them indiscriminately over and over and over again, and make some money because they've cut costs in care and treatment.

The AKC does have a "Breeder of Merit" program, which helps a little.  The program requires that the breeder participate in conformation or companion shows, and perform all the necessary health screenings and such.  But meeting the 'merit' standards is not required in order to register puppies.

There are good breeders out there.  Lots of them.  Breeders who actually DO care about the betterment of their chosen breed, and are doing their level best to ensure their puppies go to loving, lifetime homes.  If you cannot afford to visit the breeder you are looking at, to get a real feel for how your new dog was made, and how its parents are kept, then you should most likely be looking at breeders closer to home....Or considering a different option. *cough-adoption-cough*

Buying from a Reputable Breeder means you are getting a guarantee on that dog's future.  A Breeder who asks for "updates" on their pups, cares about them.  A Breeder who talks about what a great Deal the dog is.....well, I'm just sayin.