MINE!!!!

With Resource Guarding, particularly with food, toys or bones, we must realize that a dog is only doing what comes naturally to Dog.

Protecting something that may seem incredibly important to your dog, is something he may have learned well before you brought him home.  He may even have been 'fighting' for the resource of momma-dog's milk; learning to growl and/or snap to get his way as the litter grew, and by the time you chose your sweet little ball of fur, he thought that was the way to keep what you wanted as Yours.

Or perhaps you have an older dog you adopted and discovered you and your family are suddenly faced with Cujo after you gave him a tasty bone.  The shelter said he had shown no signs of it, so this is 'new' to you.  There is not really any way to look into his past, but what you can do is help him with his future.

It's all about breaking it into smaller chunks, and finding what means more to your dog.
Toy..........................or bone?
Bone...............................or boiled chicken?
Boiled chicken............................or rotten squirrel he found in the forest?  (ok, that last one may be a touch harder to work with, but you get the gist.)

The following link will take you to Dr. Sophia Yin's blog article on the subject of 'food aggression,' and will show you what I find to be the most effective way to help a dog with this kind of issue.  Not all dogs benefit from this approach, but the majority of cases I see can be turned around with something similar to it. You must cater the method to suit the dog and the particular circumstances.  It is an excellent framework for using a more scientific approach (Dog is Animal; what does Animal want?) to help a dog overcome the feeling that everyone is out to steal his things.

We're working with one canine now, who is simply learning that going "crazy mean" in the kennel with a raw bone is just not necessary, nor are we scared and leaving; but rather, he is learning to calmly go in, chew the bone a moment, then come back out calmly and receive pieces of chicken.....

So, enjoy the info:  http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/treatment_of_food_possessive_dogs_is_about_finesse_not_force

Fostering vs. Recycling

A foster home is a house that the dog is sent to, either from a shelter, or through a rescue network, in the hopes that the dog will "do better" in that environment, and hopefully, learn enough stuff to make him more suitable for adoption.  This is not a permanent home, (though for some, it almost becomes that because they stay so long) and is designed to be a revolving door to open the spot for another dog in need.

Recycling a dog is quite different.  A "recycler" is someone who habitually picks up dogs, either from a shelter, or buys them from 'breeders' because they wanted it for one reason or another, and gives it away when the circumstances change, or they no longer feel they can handle the animal.  They start out with the best of intentions, or "needs" in their minds, but probably should not have taken that animal home in the first place. They are unprepared to give that animal the care and teaching it requires for its entire life.  The dog winds up in a new home, with the same issues.

These are usually impulse decisions.  These Humans go to shelters and fall for faces, and do not consider their entire lives.  These are Craiglisters.  These are poor choices.

"I work 15 hrs a day, am never home, go out on the weekends, don't like to travel with my pets and have three kids....Hey! Look at this cute dog!  Let's get it!"

"The landlord says we can't have big dogs anymore.  I gave her away."

"The shelter said he only had 10 hrs left to live...I just couldn't say no....Can you loan me money for food?"

"I finally got my pack down to a manageable number.  I like it better this way.  I have more control........The rescue talked me into two puppies!!!"

"He wouldn't stop tearing things up, so we gave him away on Craiglist...... Look at the new puppy we got!"

"My neighbor said to get a __*insert protective breed name here___after the break-in, so I got him.  He hates my small dog.  What do I do?"

Without being too judgmental, but let's face it, I am being judgmental:  This is wrong.  I understand that in some cases, re-homing is actually the smart, logical and necessary thing to do...But the majority of cases I see where this has been the situation, could have been avoided with a little more dedication and life management.  And research; not enough research goes into choosing a dog.  I am not saying that I have never been in a situation where I had to re-home a dog, but I learned my lesson:  I stopped taking animals I was not prepared to give care to for the rest of their lives.

I have a dog who will forever be a pain in my neck.  He requires special food.  He needs meds to manage anxiety issues.  He barks at nothing (I swear he has turrets) and barks loudly!  He is easily scared.  He eats inedible objects because his last Humans never gave him any proper dog chews.  He digs craters in the yard.  He hates when we have visitors because they scare him.
But you know what?  He is My Mess.  I chose him knowing he would most likely never be completely whole because he is genetically flawed; his mind is not sound, and he can't see right.  I committed to the life of this guy.  No matter how much work he is.  And he will be a lot of work to rehabilitate; I spend too much time working with other people's dogs at the present, so he gets to be a bit more of a homebody then I'd like.  I have not dedicated the time he needs to the full extent it will require; I know this.

Two days ago, I found a purpose for him:  He is amazingly quiet in public (so long as Humans don't attempt to interact with him; he wears a vest saying "do not pet me" to help)....So much so that he does not react at all to dogs, no matter what they might do around him.  He helped a dog aggressive dog learn to be closer to another dog. 

I strongly feel it is wrong to just "get another dog" when the first, second or third (4th, 5th, 12th) don't work out.  We opted to move years ago when BSL came to Denver, CO rather then re-home our pitbull.  It wasn't easy.  It wasn't cheap.  But you know what?  That dog was family.

We own a house now.  And I tell you what, if the city came knocking tomorrow and told me it was mandatory for my animals to go, so would I.  Granted, not before a fight with City Council and a lot of noise and media attention...but you get the idea.  These are not just 'my dogs' these are members of my family.  They are not recyclable.
They are not replaceable.
They are safe.

Guaranteed Instant Results! Long-term Success Not Promised.

The first three weeks of a new "training" program is critical.  In my opinion, this is where you either stick with it, or change your method (and most likely your trainer).  The first session is where I see what I'm dealing with; mostly with you.

When I talk to you about helping your dog, I am watching you almost more then I am watching the dog.  I am observing your body language, and am listening to how you speak to your dog.
That first session, your dog is more likely to respond to me because it is new.  It is novel, and they are naturally such curious creatures, they can't help but want to play this new game I'm presenting.  So we try a few things, we get to know each other, and you try them with us.  You are amazed.  You cannot believe something's changed!  So you're into it.

Over the next couple meetings, I either see dedication and genuine effort from you, the Human, or I see you being to fall apart because it isn't working like magic anymore. 
Well, I got news for you:  Dogs have personalities.  They test our will, our stubbornness, our resolve, if you will, to make this new way The Way from now on.  I know you hear it over and over again, but Consistency is Key when working with an animal.  It doesn't matter what kind of animal you are trying to teach, if you are inconsistent, they cannot learn.

Think about how hard it would be to learn a new language.  Now imagine that every time you go to class, the teacher changes the rules, or even, the words and names for things she taught you last week.  How on earth do you expect to become fluent in a language like that? 
I'm sure you may pick up a few things, if the teacher screams at you loud enough, or maybe if she hit you with something.  You'd certainly learn to listen to tone and body language in a way to self-preserve, but you most likely would not be learning the subtle nuances required to learn the language properly.  You have become a creature of reaction. You may try to please the teacher by inventing ways to communicate; and every time you come up with something, she tells you it is wrong. If only she had been clear from the beginning of class, right?

Most of us are very confusing to dogs.  "Come."  "Come're"  "Here"  "GetOverHere!"  "ah screw it, SIT!"
We do not take the time to enforce that first of all, "Come" is what is expected, and that what is expected is expected in all circumstances.  We teach it in a place without distractions, and the dog gets almost proficient.  Rather then taking the next logical step (A, B, C, D, E, F, G...) we jump right to the dog park (A, B, C, .... *"Our own brain, our own heart is our temple; the philosophy is kindness. -*Dali Lama") and expect our dogs to Get It just as soundly as they Got It at home.

We expect them to understand English.  They do not understand English.  They associate certain sounds with action, or lack thereof.  We are talking about inter-species communication here.  And we Humans take it so lightly, and expect SO MUCH from this other species, and yet take no time to understand their ways of communication at all.  I offer the challenge to all of you, that I offer to all of my students/friends:  Go to the dog park without your dog.  Observe other people's pets interacting with not only each other, but with their Humans.  What do you see?

Do you see friends hanging out at a park?  Do you see a bad relationship on display?  Is the dog in charge?  Or is there a level of respect that speaks to the bond they share?  It is quite interesting to see this in action, as it may help you to better understand exactly why your dog won't listen to you at all.  Perhaps you're projecting weakness and a lower pack rank then you realize...Or maybe you're just not speaking the language.

It's all about patience and a resolve that it will not be perfect for a while.  You are learning as your dog is learning, so be kind with yourself.  You cannot expect your dog to know to "come" at the dog park, if you have not first prepared him to return in the presence of dogs at all.  Ok, he gets it at home, he's pretty darn good at it, so let's take the next step:  Let's get that long line out and start practicing where he can see another dog, but cannot reach it.  Increase the distraction in increments.

You can't show up in Beijing and expect to understand, when all you know is Nebraska.

thoughts on 'Pack Status' and feeding

In the years I have worked with dogs, I have received many, many (maaaaany) differing opinions on "pack status" as related to feeding times/rights.

There are some camps who vehemently believe that in order for your dog to respect you, and his role within your family, he must always see you eat first.  He must never cross a doorway first.  He must never be allowed to sleep in your bed.  He must never be allowed to "choose" a behavior.

The other end of that spectrum is that none of that matters, so long as you are enforcing obedience when you ask for it.

Still another angle gives us the perspective of the multi-dog household:  Who is the "Alpha"?  Who eats first?  Who has rights that the others do not?

The answers to all of those questions, and to the one of Which Way is Right, is so very different for each and every household, that to say One way is The Way, would be grossly unfair.  There are dogs (and Humans) out there who could care less who eats first, or goes outside first, or gets the best sleeping spot.  There are those wonderful tomato-plant personalities that nothing riles them, and they just seem to 'get along' with everyone and every thing.  If you are lucky enough to have one of these, count yourself blessed, and be kind to the rest of us.

In my house, the bottom line is respect.  I have two very different personalities of the canine persuasion living under my roof, and almost always, a visiting dog.  Mealtime happens only for dogs who are sitting politely and waiting.  They do not mob the kitchen.  They do not scrap or fight with each other when they are finished, as it is my job to enforce respect not only for me and my family, but for each other.  They eat very closely, but not so close that they can reach the other dogs bowl without walking away from their own.  When one finishes, he is asked to Sit and Wait while the other dog eats at his leisure. 

There have been times when I have had to keep a visitor dog on lead, feeding a few kibbles at a time from my hand while asking the dog for numerous behaviors (such as Sit, Down, Wait, Come...whatever, just work the dog) in order to earn the meal, and to keep them busy enough to ignore the other two eating.  I have worked with households who must muzzle and leash the "low guy on the totem pole" in order to safely have them wait a distance from the other dogs, to enforce that he has no right to eat until they have had their fill.  Ultimately, this creates a better order, and a calmer dog; again, this depends on the individual dogs' personality.

I have seen families whose dogs are gulpers who finish their food as fast as possible, so they can scramble over and steal from the other dogs.  This creates chaos, which in turn creates growly/snappy behavior, which will eventually lead to a fight.  If you are a lazy human, or one who is struggling with a dog who does indeed suffer from resource guarding over food, then take it slowly and use crates.  Use a leash at the very least, to allow yourself the control needed to enforce that it is You who controls the resource of the food; not the dog.

Controlling the resource:  That is how you control the dog.  If you must start with the "offending" dog in the other room, locked in a crate to eat so the other dogs are safe, then do it.  Do not feel as though you must overpower a dog who is having issues with guarding what he perceives as "his."  Finesse is required to convince him that he will actually be better off without that state of mind.  Find a distance he feels safe with, and slowly begin to "smash" it into a smaller and smaller space, until it doesn't matter anymore.  Teaching a dog it will gain something good from sharing, or not being so obsessed, will teach him how to stay in a calm state of mind.

That being said, you must also bear in mind that some dogs are just flat out not good at sharing with another dog.  Some dogs are not cut out for being a part of a pack.  They prefer to be only children, and we must be sensitive to that as well.  You may make progress with a dog like that, but he may be a ticking time-bomb, just waiting for you to not be on your game one day.  Dogs like that, should you choose to keep them, must be accepted as a lifetime management issue.  You, the controller of all things in your dogs life, will be responsible for keeping him, and everyone who interacts with him, safe.  These are the personalities who may do better with the stricter structure of where he sleeps, how he moves through doorways, etc.

I told someone once my thoughts on pack status as pertaining to food.  He had a wolf-hybrid, so in my opinion, it was more important to stick to a more 'wolfy' pack order with that particular dog.  He took my words so to heart, that when I visited, I noticed only one bowl.  He had two dogs.  When I asked about it, he said, "Watch this."

 He then proceeded to fill the bowl with food.  Both dogs were eagerly, but respectfully sitting and watching him do this.  When he was finished, he called the old wolf over to eat, and stood guard while he got to eat half the bowl of food.  When the wolf was half through, the guy then told Wolf to "Away" and sent him off the food to again Sit and Wait.  He then called the younger dog over to finish the meal, while he stood guard and made sure old wolf waited. 

He understood that He Controlled the Resource, not the dogs.  He was willing to hang out for the entire 5-10 minutes it required for them to eat like that (oh nooo, not commitment!!!).

He has yet to ever have a fight over anything in his home. 

"I always thought someone should do something about that....Then I realized, I am that someone." -jason flatt

Sometimes, the character of our true selves is revealed when inundated with the thing we claim to love more then anything in the world.

I am surrounded by Humans who "love" dogs.  I am surrounded by Humans who "love dogs more then anything," and these very Humans hurt them.  They cannot see the hurt they cause; is it because they are blinded by this "love,"  or is it that they genuinely don't believe their "love" is causing any pain or emotional discomfort.....

I know we are all entitled to our opinions, but if you aren't compassionate in what you do, no matter what that may be, you aren't Whole.  There is something broken inside you if you aren't effected by the panic or pain you hear from an animal in your care.  Or if you can somehow turn your head when you see an animal sitting in its own waste.....  if money and time management matter more then the soul someone entrusted you with while they are out of town....

Be careful who you leave your pets with.  Hire a pet-sitter.  It is less stressful on your pets, and no more money then you'd pay for boarding. 

If you must board:  Demand a Full Tour of any kennel facility you wish to use.  If they won't show you a particular part of the building, there's a reason.

These are your furry kids, your compadres, your protectors and companions....Make sure they are well loved and not abused in your absence.  If they come home acting weird, or doing anything that leads you to think someone's not being good to them, listen to that gut instinct.  Follow up on it. 

There are money people, and there are compassionate people; it is hard to find a marriage of the two in the animal boarding industry.  They exist, but they are unfortunately harder and harder to find.  I use a pet-sitter.  I will not kennel my dogs.

 If some kind of emergency happened that forced my hand, I would ask that they board at my vet's office.  Everyone knows them there, and I have seen every square inch of that facility.  They hide nothing.  They love my pets.  They are compassionate.  And they handle my pets with care.  It is not a numbers game to them. 

Kids and Dogs.

And here we have a perfect example of What Not To Allow Your Kids to Do To The Dog. I don't care how kid tolerant you think your dog is (and to be fair, this guy is mind blowingly amazing...not many would put up with it) this should NEVER be allowed to happen. I love the end of the video where this wise dog puts himself out of reach.

You want to avoid a bite?
Teach your kids to respect the dogs space.

Too young to understand?
Don't just stand there filming them like they are cute; get the dog out of the way...Help him out of this obnoxious situation.

This is how kids get bit in the face.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=760083997369936
(copy and paste the link into your browser to see the video)

theparktheparktheparkthepark!!!!!

On my way out of the dog park this afternoon, I witnessed two most interesting forms of Rewarding Your Dogs Behavior.

The first was a girl unloading two Australian Shepherds.  As she pulled into the lot, one of the dogs began to bark.  I heard her tell it to "Be Quiet!" and it did; the other dog barked...and barked again....and again...Each time, the girl told it to "Quiet."  But she continued the process of taking them both out of the car.
After she had unloaded them, the frenzy began:  Both dogs barking and pulling and barking some more, all the while this girl says "BE Quiet!" as she waited for a car to pass.  At this point, she gave up the 'quiet,' and let two barking idiots pull her into the park. 

The second instance happened literally as barking-girl-pack got through the gate.  The woman opens the tailgate of the SUV, and three dogs blasted out of it.  She panics and grabs a leash, her husband snagged the second, but the third, a rather large Golden-doodle went prancing around the parking lot.  She's screaming and calling to the dog, who of course thinks this is a fantastic game.  The dog acts as though it is coming back to her, and just as she reaches for the leash, he's off again!  This time with the woman, and the other dog chasing him.  He finally has enough of this and runs to the gate, which she opens for him.

In both these scenarios, the dogs got Rewarded for their behavior.  The barking dogs got to go into the park.  The runaway got to go into the park.

I know it's a pain in the neck, but can you imagine the different state of mind both these Humans could have induced in their "pack" had they only taken the time to drag these dogs back to the car to try again?  And again...and again...and...well, you get the idea.  I can't tell you the number of times I have had to load my big guy (whom I've had appx. 8 mnths./shelter rescue) back into the car because he forgot what "wait" meant, and jumped out without permission.  Meanwhile, little guy sits there rolling his eyes and waiting for him to get it together so they both can get out and play.

What does he want?  To go into the park. 
How does that happen?  We pull in, I get out.  I open the back door, I say "Wait," I put leashes on, I step away from the space so he is choosing to wait, not just staying there because I've blocked the space, I say "ok" and then he may jump out.  Being allowed to jump out is the reward.  There is no need for food here.

Any deviation from this results in his being loaded back in, and made to try again....This prevents him from getting what he wants, so he learns to "Work the Human" and get his way.  The frequency of his 'forgetting' is becoming almost non-existent, and that depends on my patience.  If I give in, and rush him in after he rushed me out, he gets Rewarded for the Wrong Behavior.  No thanks.

The same protocol can be used if you have a dog who wants to yank you as fast as they can into the park.  Just go the other way.  Walk back towards the car as many times as it takes, but teaching your dog that the only way they get the Reward of play is to walk politely to it, pays off.  A dog who enters the park in a calm and controlled manner is more likely to use better social interaction skills.