Put 'em in a Box

Crate Time:
How much is too much?

In the great crate debate, it seems that everyone has an opinion.  If you talk to some ol' schoolers, they'll tell you they never needed a crate to train their pup.  They'll talk about how putting your dog in a cage is cruel; "How's he gonna learn to be a part of the family, if you got him locked up all the time?"
Keep talking to them, and they'll also begin to tell you that the dog used to chew up EVERYTHING when left alone.  Or they'll tell you all it takes to house-train is to smush their nose in it, spank their butt, and throw 'em outside..... (for the record...No.  These are not appropriate ways to teach a young dog)

My motto usually is "If you can't see the puppy, put the puppy in the box."  But this comes with moderation.  I recently spoke with someone who mentioned that another 'trainer' had said "I don't care if it's 22 hours a day, if you can't see that dog, put (it) in a crate."  Well, I do care that it's 22 hours a day.  Too much crate time can ruin a good dog; fast.

It's the equivalent of making an 8 year old boy with a hyper-activity issue, stay in your bathroom all day long.  Sure, you let him out to eat, but you get mad at him for jumping and messing around at the table, so it's back to the bathroom.  Of course you take him out for a walk now and then, but then when he completely overreacts at the sight of other kids, you get upset at him.  "Why can't he just be normal!?"  He can't be normal because he doesn't live a normal life.  Back to the bathroom.

When you confine an animal for long periods of time, you are denying them everything Nature says they need. Just as Human children need interaction with their families, and the outside world, in order to grow into a balanced, comfortable adult, puppies need time outside the box...a lot of it.  Grown dogs do too.

Ok, so what does put the puppy in the box really mean?
Well, it means that after you have altered your life enough to accommodate the energy needs your particular dog has, and you have something to do, or somewhere to go, then it may be ok to put the dog in the crate for its own safety (and the safety of your home's interior).

This does not mean you take the dog out for a quick pee before you have coffee and breakfast, and then another quick outing before you stick the dog in the crate and leave for work for 8-12 hours.  How would you like being told you can't leave your bed (even to pee) for 12 hours?  Oh, and did I forget to mention, we swapped your king size for this twin....

Set your alarm 30-60 minutes earlier than usual.  Get your butt out of that cushy king size, and walk/run that pup.  Give your dog the exercise it needs as an animal.  That way, when you do crate him, he is more likely to lay down and enjoy the bone or toy you've offered while you are gone.  Even better, he'll sleep most of the day.

This also means you don't lock them in a crate 8-12 hours a day.  If you must be gone that long, hire a sitter or dog walker to come in at least once to let the animal out to relieve itself.

Can't hire a sitter?  That's ok.  You must then consider the dog's comfort and set up a "zone" with some puppy pads, or a Potty Patch so the dog can at the very least, urinate or defecate.  This also means the dog can move around more; stretch those legs and be more comfortable in your absence.  A portable pen or some baby-gates work marvelously if you must set up something like this.

With all this talk, you'd think I was anti-crate, but far from it.  I love them.  Handled properly, they are a fantastic tool....there's that word again; Tool.  And as a Tool, you should look at it's appropriate use.
I talked with a guy who had a small-ish dog, but not enough money to hire someone to let him out during his long, 12 hour day.  He had attempted the pen idea, and the dog had escaped it...the solution?  He bought his 18 pound dog a wire crate in size XXL....that meant the dog had plenty of space to move, play, sleep and yes, eliminate on the pads in the tray that he placed in a back corner for him...Carpet Saved.

As a general rule of thumb, your pup should be comfortable with spending time in the crate.  So put them there when you are NOT leaving.  Sometimes, they just need a nap, and you need a time out.  It is helpful for the dog to realize that just because you've asked them to 'kennel,' you are not always leaving.  A crate can be a wonderful thing that helps you keep your sanity.

Look at it like placing a young child into a playpen....it's ok for short-term confinement so you can answer emails, or make a phone call without worrying what the kid is putting in his mouth (or diaper...sheesh).  But the kid should not live a life where they go from crib (small cage with bed) to playpen (small cage with padding) to carseat (strapped into seat; no freedom of movement) to high-chair (strapped and trapped again) and back to crib.  There has to be some exploring somewhere, if you ever expect your child (or puppy) to grow in a balanced and healthy fashion.

I don't think a dog should be crated for more then 4-5 hours at a time, and that's on the high-side. Yes, some of them do sleep there at night (one of mine does; otherwise, we still get an accident in the sun-room every so often) and that's fine.  But I believe the dog shouldn't spend more then 20% of it's daily time in a box.

If you truly must crate consider the dog's comfort, both mentally and physically.   Separation anxiety, house-training, new dog, dogs who can't be trusted with each other alone, foster dogs, recovering from vet care, etc, are all great reasons to use a crate....I just hate to see crate-crazy dogs who are blamed for the way they are too hyper, or unresponsive to training, or destructive.  They are brimming with the natural exuberance they were blessed with, but have nowhere healthy to put it, if you are putting them in the box too long.....

NOISE!BARKHOWLWOOFBAROOOOOoooooooo!

The dog across the street.
Every time you try to walk by, he comes exploding out of the backyard.  He rushes the fence, teeth flashing as he lobs a volley of sound bombs through the boards at you.  You can hear him growling and pawing at the fence, and you think "whew! Thank gosh he's not loose!"

The dog tied to the tree a few blocks over.
You don't even have to be close for her to start making a racket.  Bouncing up and down at the end of the chain; pounding her forelegs into the dirt.  Hackles raised, tail waving about; you've taken to walking on the other side of that street, or avoiding it altogether---What if that chain breaks?  Or her collar snaps?

The tiny dog in the apartment across from you.
The incessant, piercing barks that stab the air and slice through whatever task is at hand.  There's nothing to bark at!  Each outburst lasts 20 minutes or more, and literally, there is Nothing happening.

The middle of the night baying from some hound on the other side of the neighborhood.
Never fails, you finally get the baby down for the night, when "Broe!Broe!Broooooe!" begins...

Your dog + Doorbell = Insanity.

So, what the heck is happening?  Don't these dogs know you aren't a threat?
Well, no.  Actually they don't.  Most dogs that have what we Humans call "barking issues" are actually doing their jobs, or are prone to noise because (again) we Humans have bred that trait into them...We actually wanted that happening for years and years.

Take dog number one, the one that barks like he's possessed every time you walk by his yard.  In his dog perception, he has effectively frightened you away and saved his pack from potential death.  You approach, he rushes the boundary with all his noise and bravado, and you leave.  The dog doesn't realize you've only continued walking, in your unconcerned way because you, Human, know he's behind a fence and can't do anything...No, he actually believes he's made you leave.  Repeat this process with however many people walk by him in a day's time, and now he has an established habit. With each success, he may amp up the intensity of his rush, because he has learned that the more noise and growling he presents, the faster the "threat" passes....See?  Doing his job.

Chain dog?

She is Bored, Angry, Frustrated and most likely lacking in any kind of Social Skills.  Her Humans don't interact with her, and keeping an animal on a chain can quite literally make them crazy.  They become open to threats such as wandering dogs, cruel kids and Lord knows what else may come their way.  She is scary.  You should be worried about that situation.  But not because she may get loose one day, but because no one ever lets her loose....Bites from chained dogs are more likely to be serious.  This is a very unstable dog, and she is letting you know in the only way she knows how.

Does she have water?  Is it knocked over because she dragged her chain under the bowl?  Shelter?  A dog on a chain cannot get away from it's own elimination mess most of the time, as the chain usually gets tangled or wrapped around the dog's own feet....Most city ordinances prohibit tethering a dog without supervision.  Should you see one that lives this way, please call your local Animal Control and report this.  It is dangerous not only for the dog, but for the community around it as well.

Tiny Guy in the apartment across from you...
Holy Cow Batman! Did you ever think something so small could be so annoying?!
Ok, here's the down low on little dogs...They have a job, or at least, they had a job waaaaay back in the day.  Some of them were used to hunt vermin, while others were strictly bred down in size from their larger, more functional ancestors, in order to make a constant companion.  A hand-warmer with personality.

Being a constant companion meant one thing:  Constant Companionship.  These little guys went everywhere with their people.  When you begin to 'size down' something genetically, you wind up with certain quirks and personality traits that one can ignore due to the fantastic "look" of a thing...So we wind up with a lot of easily nervous, shaky little guys....Intelligent little guys.  Smart little guys with nothing to do and no one to interact with can lead to reactive tendencies to EVERYTHING.

That little guy across the way has built himself a habit of sounding off, because he has no one to help him stop.  It has most likely become a compulsion that he no longer can stop, until he has worn himself out a bit.  At which point he quiets because he's tired.  But wait.......what was that? "BarkBarkBarkBarkBark!" His person leaving him alone all day, with nothing to do, and most likely, nothing to mask the sounds of the "scary" outside world, has left you listening to his incessant noises....that poor dog.

Dark of the night howler: Um yeah, this Human should be more considerate and bring the dog indoors.  That dog is most likely genetically prone to howling and baying like that (think Husky or Hound or something) and is alerting to a creature prowling the neighborhood.  Good Job in the country, not considerate at all in a more suburban setting.  Not the dog's fault.

Doorbell Insanity:
I suffer from this at my own home.  Not because my dog's are idiots (well, ok, they have their moments) but because there isn't enough consistency in teaching them how not to freak out.  I live with other Humans.  When I am not present, there is not enough follow-through, so my dogs continue to have Doorbell Insanity....sigh...
Anyway, they feel like they are doing their jobs.  They are alerting me to the potential threat or excitement that a doorbell noise brings:  The Strange Human on the Other Side of the Door.

Look at it this way...
The doorbell rings.  The dog barks.  You open the door.  The stranger comes in.  The dogs get to meet someone new who pets them and coos over how wonderful they are.
Or this.....
The doorbell rings.  The dog barks.  You open the door.  The person on the other side is soliciting something, so you tell them "no thank you" through the exterior door.  The Threat leaves.

Where in there do you see a non-reward from the dog's perspective?  That's right, there isn't.  The dog did his job.  He alerted you, and you came to address the situation.

If I want success, first I must set up the scenario for it.
Step 1:  Teach the dogs to go to Place and stay there.
Step 2:  Download a doorbell sound that is as close to your actual bell as possible.
Step 3:  Use Great Patience to teach the dogs that the doorbell noise now is a cue to run to Place, lay down and stay in order to get a reward.
Step 4:  Have a friend park down the street, walk up to door, ring bell, and wait appx. 2 minutes on my porch before repeating.  While friend is doing this, I am inside enforcing the Place = Reward for the dogs.  At no point will the friend ever come in through the door for this step.
Step 5:  Friend now rings bell, dogs go to Place, I now open the door and address friend.  Friend still does not come inside, as dogs will most likely attempt to join me at door.  Door is closed, and dogs are put back to Place. Repeat 'til this no longer is the case.
Step 6:  Friend now may ring bell and be let in to house.  Should dogs get off Place, Friend must immediately turn and walk out door.

Can you see where this would require some consistency?
There are other ways to accomplish this task.  Other personalities to take into consideration.  That example is what would work best for my particular dogs.  But all that hard work would be for naught, should someone ring my bell when I wasn't there to enforce what I wanted....Say someone in my house orders pizza during this "training phase."  I may be at a point where they are reliably running to their Places, but the person who ordered the pie may not reward them.  Or may not put them back when the door is opened and they run up to see the Pizza Man. Or may just ignore the barking altogether and slip out on to the porch with the delivery guy.....

Sidenote:  The last friend (canine) I had, knew to run to the couch and get comfortable and quiet, when the door was knocked on and I said "Pizza Man."  You can use whatever cue you want, just be consistent :)

The point is, dogs don't just bark.  In fact, there have been recent studies that lean towards the realization that most dogs bark for us; Humans.  Well before that darn dog was disturbing your day, we were using them as alarm systems for our tribal camps.  We chose and selected the 'wolves' that made noises when they saw something approaching, as it made us safer.  As our society changed, and we began selectively mating dogs for appearances and duty, we also bred for sound.

Our dogs learned quickly how to vocalize to get what they wanted from us.  In a wild pack, this much noise would get someone killed, but in our 'evolved' lives, barking gets attention.  It gains food, toys, affection, and attention....and when it doesn't, they sometimes escalate it in the hopes it may.

Why wouldn't they bark?

8 Books that Influenced My Dog Addiction

1. "Silver Chief:  Dog of the North" by Jack O'Brian

Well before 'White Fang' was on the 'required reading list' for elementary school, this book made me want to be best friends with an animal who once did not trust anyone, or anything...to form that bond that only a "savior" can give...Of course, I'd have to move to Alaska and set a snare trap, after I'd listened to the legends of the natives, and finally convinced myself that this creature and I were of the same spirit.....

2. "Big Red" by Jim Kjelgaard
Here again, a wonderful story of a boy and his dog roaming the wilderness and sharing secrets...it's no wonder all my diaries wear fur.

3. "All Creatures Great and Small" by James Harriot
Nothing like an English countryside vet to make you bring every injured, crooked or weird animal home, begging your parents to let you keep it because you 'understand' how to help it....I didn't (I was probably 8) but for years, I wanted to be a large animal vet because of this guy.

4. "Old Yeller" by Fred Gibson
The unfortunate fact that most of the best dog books are written for young adults (in my opinion) does not deter me from recommending that everyone read this book.  Throw the Disney idea of a yellow lab out the window folks; this story is most likely about a Black Mouth Cur....Gibson's description of that little boy, watching his momma sew up his dog's insides; that stuck with me.

5. "Good Dog Carl" by Alexandra Day
Children's book? Yes.
Beautiful Art? Yes.
Showcasing what amazing animals Rottweilers are with family?  Why yes!

6. "The Dogs of Babel" by Carolyn Parkhurst
On a more adult level, this book is really about love, and learning to breathe again after you lose someone so very important....
...also, there are horrible experiments and imagery that will creep into your dreaming and leave you shuddering; touching the faces of your dogs, just to make sure they are whole and healthy.

7. "A Dog's Purpose" by W. Bruce Cameron
Again, a young adult read; this explores the possibility of our dog's 'coming back' to do it over again, until they get it right.  The original soul of the first dog learns something he will need for his next try; his next Human; his next job.  Just a heart-touching read.....bring tissues.

8. "The Complete Dog Book: The Photograph, History, and Official Standard of Every Breed Admitted to AKC Registration" by the AKC
My father had a copy of this book.  798 pages of dogs.  Classifications, drawings, pictures, and grooming information.  This was well before any 'doodle-dogs' hit the market.

Consistency....

Consistency.
Such a small word, really.....So very vital to the success of anything you try to teach, or do with your dog.

You know why most dogs are house-trained so well?
Pooping on the floor is something that gets a predictable result from us.  Peeing on the carpet elicits a reaction the dog can count on, and (most of the time) the dog decides it just isn't worth it.  We can be consistent with that, because it's the most important to us.

So what happens to all that other stuff?
Don't pull on the leash, for instance.  As the dogs' guardian, one must be 100% consistent, in order to net a result that looks like a well-trained dog.
Instead, we sign up for a class, or we hire a 'trainer' to come to our home, and we start out great....But then, we change.

One person in the household decides the harness is too much trouble to put on before a walk, so they go back to "the way my daddy taught me" and shorten up that leash.  They wrap the lead around their hand and wrist, and darn near hang the dog; keeping him close by way of short leash, all the while saying "HEEL! HEEL! HEEL!"

Another person tries to walk the dog, now with the harness, but has made the choice not to use the technique shown to them three weeks ago, because they  just want to go for a walk with their dog.
Understandable, but coupled with the dog who has now been shown that the end of the lead is where they should be, with it tight and full of tension (Heel! Heel!), the dog now forges ahead despite the no-pull harness.  The person trying to walk the dog grows frustrated, and now what should have been a relaxing walk, is now a wrestling session.

Still another member of the household attempts to work with the dog, in the manner the dog was started on.  Technique is good, harness is being applied in proper fashion, but now that the dog has learned three different ways (sort of).  He is unfocused and uninterested and confused.  A confused pup will fall back on his natural instincts, and be all over the place.....


And then there's the Humans who hire a dog-walker.....Great plan.  But please expect your leash manners to fly out the window, if your pup has not learned them, and learned them solid, before you turn them over to a 'walker.'  It is not the dog-walker's job to train your dog (unless you trust them and pay them, and show them exactly how you want it done).

The families who I have seen reach success the fastest, are those who can either get everyone working with the pup in as closely to "Same" as possible, or those who have divided the pup's learning among themselves.

For instance, Mom takes over walking the dog on the leash, as she has the most patience and knows that investing the time 'now' to walk in circles, ask for a million 'Sits' or vary pace to keep the pup focused, will net her a dog who walks like a gentleman in the near future.

Dad is great at teaching 'Drop' and 'Give' or 'Bring,' because he loves tossing the ball to the dog after work.

Little Johnny and Sister Suzy think teaching the pup to 'Shake' or 'Rollover' is most fun, and due to these being what I like to call "non-essential" obedience, it's more ok for the kids to not follow-through with good timing, or proper rewards.

Now there are things that EVERYONE in the family should be teaching, of course, but sometimes, taking away the responsibility of being consistent, can be the greatest blessing you can give someone.
One such goes back to the house-training:  Everyone knows to give dog a treat or play with him right after he poops in the right place, so dog learns this very quickly.

Another fine example of 'group' activity, can be 'Come' or 'Here.'  Playing 'pass the puppy' or 'hide and seek' with your dog, can be something the whole family can participate in very easily.  And it helps your dog learn to return to any one of you, if needed.  But even here, you must be consistent....When you have agreed upon what word you'll use, stick to it.  Changing it up per family member preference becomes, again, confusing for your dog.
"Ralph, Come"
"Come're Ralphy"
"Ralphy, here boy, come on"
"Ralph, Come On Buddy, Good Boy, Come, Here, Ralph..."

Of course, as your dog grows into what you are teaching, he will begin to generalize things a bit more like a mature animal.  In the beginning stages of learning the English Language, keeping it simple will mean he will learn faster.

Not everyone can be a rock-star on the leash, but at least be consistent.  At some point, it will pay off, and your dog will believe that everyone who holds the leash must be treated with respect, and therefore, not pull.

If your dog pulling you on leash is something you want stopped, be predictable for your dog.  Stop confusing him.

Something to Ruminate

While I applaud a calm video production with a preface about the breed, I am cringing and wondering "Do we really need 'Go see if he's up there' or 'Go Get Him'? 

I was recently called out by someone I deeply respect, for a comment I've been using for years (not repeated, as I choose not to turn my own blog site into a debate).  It has given me much to chew on in the way I speak of the pitbull type dog, in today's society....
It didn't change the way I see my comment, but it was brought to my attention, that not everyone speaks nor understands exactly as I might....

...choosing our words carefully is important.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=623122881134222&set=o.134271619973258&type=2&theater

This kid will make money as a 'trainer.' People are lining up--Good for him.

Imagine the slight difference, if the dogs are told to 'Search' or 'Find out.'

Still impressive.

Still wonderful to see dogs with a job.

No longer adhering to stereo-types, by accident, and to the general public.

The Monthly Kids & Dogs posting

I am noticing that about once a month, something about kids and dogs is brought to my attention.  Be it something I see, or something a client may ask, there is a plethora of questions and scenarios that must be addressed.  Today, we are going to look at why letting the kids walk the dog is not a great plan.

 

Let's begin with this lovely scene.

For starters, the dog is not happy At All.  The tucked in tail, the locked legs, the lowered head; it all screams at me that this dog is not having fun in the least.  Now, this particular dog may not enjoy being on a leash anyway, but in this picture, we have a little kid holding the leash.  This is a tenacious little kid for sure, she's determined to make that dog go her way.....Not cool.  Even a small-ish dog can pull a kid over, and this is just an accident waiting to happen.  

Not to mention the potential for an aggressive response. The dog finally tires of being pulled, and whips around directly at kid-face level with his teeth. 

Handing the leash of an ill-mannered dog to a child is not only irresponsible, it is dangerous.  You may be looking at a law suit someday.  What happens if that strong dog pulls your kid down in the street and bolts into the waiting jaws of the dog aggressive dog being walked past your house?

Or worse, what if your dog pulls your child in front of a car?

I have witnessed some interesting situations when children are involved.  One such incident occurred when I was at a virtually empty park space, working with a dog who wasn't the best socially.  I had literally just finished explaining to the dogs' owner, how to handle it if a loose dog came their way, when entering the park, we glimpsed disaster...."here it comes," I said as I watched the scene unfold.

A person with a young-ish child (probably 8 or so) was entering the park.  Their dog was wearing a head-halter very ineffectively, and was attached to a leash the child was clutching.  The dog was obviously pulling very hard on this kid, but the adult was allowing this.  Their dog looked up, saw us in the middle of the field, and leaped.  The kid hit the ground, the leash came free, and the dog came blazing towards us.

Another incident, (and I think I've mentioned this) was a young kid trying to stop a fence-aggressive dog at the entrance to the dog park....Mom was in the parking lot, sauntering up slowly, and sipping her coffee and joking with her friend, rather then taking responsibility for her dogs' nasty actions.  No one could enter or leave the park because her dog was threatening the park-goers, and her poor kid was left to scream "no" at the dog....not ok.

Kids are not strong enough to handle a dog without manners.  But, being a mom myself, I can understand the importance of teaching your kids how to work with your dog....

Great!  But let's avoid bringing very young children to the group obedience class at your local big-box pet supply, or even to the class at your veterinarians office. Most 'trainers' want your full, undivided attention, so they can do their job and impart the knowledge you seek about your dog, and its behaviors.                                                                                      When you are trying to wrangle a young kid, hold the leash, deliver treats, stop the other kid from screaming or saying "SIT" at the top of his little lungs, and attempting to keep your other child focused on Your Dog and Your Training, instead of the cute beagle puppy they really wanted, learning becomes impossible:  For everyone in class.  If you want to save some bucks by choosing a group class, please find a sitter for the kiddos before you show up with the fur-kid.

If you seek a more hands-on kiddo-interactive training experience, hire a good trainer to come to your home and teach the kids, and yourself, how to handle the dog.  Preferably one who takes your lifestyle, available time, and goals into the process; not one that is "only there for the dog."  If you have a family, your "trainer" should be sensitive to that.  The kids count as pack members, and when you only focus on the dog, and working with the adult members of the pack, the dog doesn't have the level of respect that he should for the children.  Granted, some kids are just too young to participate, but even a 4 year old can learn some basic things to help that relationship become a good one.

Kids do silly things (we all do actually), such as try roller-blading behind the family pooch, but did not know that teaching the dog things like "Easy, Slow, Right, Left, or Stop" are vital to that being a successful endeavor.  They'll walk your dog up to other dogs, without asking permission from the stranger dogs' owner...(this has happened to me several times) and potentially get your dog in a fight, or worse.  They race screaming with your dog, which is cool at your home but some dogs may not take to that.

Do not send your kids to the dog park with the new puppy!!!!!

For some of us, this is a given, but for the pack of kids my daughter and I saw last week, apparently someone thought this was a fantastic plan.  

There were 6 younger kids (all 10 or under), a new pitbull puppy on a leash looped around her neck (not even a collar!) a new pug/beagle pup being cradled in the arms of a young boy, and a fluffy pup being dragged around by a screaming 7 year old.....This entourage was led by a girl who couldn't have been more then 15.  Did you really just drop that pack off at the dog park with new dogs, to fend for themselves?!

Kids are your responsibility.  It is your responsibility to think twice about sending a child, who can't even remember to tie his shoes, someplace without adult supervision, where unpredictable things can happen, and where he and his new puppy can be seriously injured.

I am all for raising kids with dogs.  But let us think twice about just turning them loose together and "Letting Nature Take Its Course."  Let us realize that kids can't do this alone.  Let us think about the welfare of our dogs.  Consider the detriment your kids can actually be to any efforts in training you may be making.

Let's think twice about letting our young kids walk our dogs without us, can we?  Please?

just back off a bit

In addition to the Wait cue, knowing Back can be extremely useful in situations where your door may be
open, people coming in or out, the pizza man, you name it. It is also a nice way to keep dogs out of your way when cooking in the kitchen.  Back and Wait can be used together. But for the purposes of this entry, we will focus on "Back."

Prerequisite:
Pup knows his name.
Pup is comfortable on leash.
Patience.
Treats....just kidding.  You don't need them for this.
Leash and collar or harness set-up.
Long line (10-15ft).
Partner (optional, depending on your dog, or your patience).
6' leash, if you're working alone.
Patience.
oh, and more patience.

To begin, put a leash on your pup, walk to the door (you should practice this with every door in your house; yes, even the bathroom door) and place your hand on the handle.  You may find it useful to also lay a rug in front of the door, thereby giving your dog a more clear boundary of where he is to stay back from.

When your dog rushes over to get his nose to the door, take your hand off the doorknob, and say "Back" as you schooch your body between the door and dog.  While doing so, point over the pup's head, to help indicate where you want them instead.
 
As you point and give the Back cue, begin to body block (think hockey goalie--no hands allowed, but dance all you want) and walk into your dog's body space.  You are not trying to kick or push; though some dogs have no sense of body space, and you may find yourself shoving them with your shins. Most will scoot out of the way and away from the door. The moment they are a good 5 or 6 feet away from it, say "Good," in a
happy sounding (but not crazy loud) tone, and return to the door yourself. *you may use a cue such as Sit, Down, Wait or Stay once the dog is a distance from the door, but only if you have first taken the time to teach these to the dog you are working with.  Focus on One cue at a time.




Most puppies will immediately follow you back to the door, at which time, simply repeat the steps above
(and repeat, and repeat, and repeat again) until the puppy no longer comes forward when you are in
front of the door.  This is where knowing 'Wait' can be helpful.  But more on that another time.

Once they will stay back while you touch the door, go ahead and turn the handle: Look at that! The
puppy is right back with his nose against the door again. Take your hand off the knob and repeat the
Back exercise.

In the picture to the right, the Human is facing the wrong way to successfully body block.  You must be facing your dog.  The dog is also waaaay too close to the door.  The carpeting in the photo looks to be a rug, back that dog all the way off the rug; give yourself room for success.

Build it slowly until you have the door wide open, and a puppy who just stares at it (remember to hold that leash, just in case). When you are closing the door as your pup tries to move forward, be careful not to smash his head in the doorway.
Hopefully, you are backing them up far enough so you can get the door closed before they even reach
the door. The idea being, if puppy stays back the door will open. If the puppy comes forward, the door will close.


It is important to note that I have not allowed the pup to go through the open doorway yet.  Sometimes, gaining access to another place, (outside, the other room, etc) may be too much excitement, and we don't want dogs who just wait for us to not be looking, then dash out the door.  Teaching them that just because the door is open, does not mean you will be able to go through it, is a useful skill.

If you have a particularly pushy pup, or a really fast one, it may help to have a partner hold the leash of
the dog while you practice this. You will also want to perfect this with the non-essential doors in your home, such as your bedroom door, or a hallway, before attempting it with an outside access door. I prefer to use a 10 ft long line if I'm using this prop to help.
You can hold a leash yourself, as a safety precaution, so that if your puppy does succeed in dashing
through the door, they are not free to take off, and thus, teach them that dashing gets them freedom. IF
your pup does get through the door, keep calm and say "no" (again, conversational level) and lead them back inside to begin the exercise again.

If you take the time to implement this cue whenever someone comes over. You will not only have a safer
dog, but also, one that won't rush your guests as they arrive.  You can couple this cue with teaching your dog to go lay on a mat, or his bed as well.

Enjoy!

I'm about to get very unpopular.

Rescuers, advocates, pet owners, and other 'trainers' might get bent at my particular point of view, but here goes.

I find it appalling when someone sends me a "SAVE HIM NOW" or a "RESCUE ME" from a dog who has spent years in a shelter......How sad for the dog.  What kind of non-life is that really?  I mean, I get the whole no-kill concept, but that's disgusting in my opinion.

That isn't fair to the dog.

There are worse things than euthanasia, and I believe living their lives in a small, noisy, scary box is one of them.  "OH, but there's someone out there who will see the dogs' picture circulating around facebook, and will want them, and save them...."  Maybe.  But what about the other dogs who aren't being circulated?  What about the thousands of animals waiting patiently for their Human to return, and they never do?  

Or the no-kill Humans who won't euthanize the truly Human aggressive dog?

The one who has already attacked with intent to kill....  I'm not talking about the dog who can be rehabilitated by the people he's living with, providing they are working with a qualified professional; no, I am speaking of the dog who genuinely would kill somebody if given the chance.  Do both the dog, and the civil community around him a favor, and put him down.  There's a strong and clear difference between a dog who has bitten people, and one that actually would like you dead.

But here's where we run into controversy with the Self.  This guy (pictured) was in a city pound for 7 months.  He was dog aggressive; like see them at the end of the block and freak out kind of hatred.  He did not like children.  He was 2.5 years old (at the time) and wasn't housebroken.  He was a black dog, in a row of black dogs.  The shelter had a 13 day hold on most animals...Someone saw something special in him.  The volunteers began changing his name, altering his intake date, and shuffling his paperwork so he wouldn't be euthanized.  The day we adopted him, the shelter worker actually thought he was a different dog entirely. He was practically anonymous.  And now, almost 4 years later, he is livin' it up with me.

He got lucky.  He was adopted into a home with a qualified handler, who helped him get past his aggressive issues, taught him that kids are actually food dispensers, and fed him a whole hot dog as he was urinating one day to FINALLY get it through about where pee is supposed to happen.  

So where exactly is the line of time?

Nobody knows.  And I am actually not qualified to make that determination.  I don't think any of us are.  And as I think any kind of behavioral modification must be suited to that particular animal, and its family situation, I also feel that knowing when to "pull the plug" depends on the dog.  Some handle the environment of a shelter more easily than others.  Some go crazy.  Some shut down.  And some, well, we'd be doing their souls a favor not to make them suffer in there.

And what about my other shelter save?  

He was labeled "unadoptable due to fear aggression"  "incapable of rehabilitation."  He was terrified.  They slated him for death after only six weeks.  He'd failed with two potential fosters.  

As an outside observer, I would have agreed.  He was frozen.  Incapacitated because of his fears; defending himself at first, but then, he shut down and just stopped.  He wasn't eating.  He wasn't drinking.  He was immobile in the corner of the kennel, urinating and defecating where he lay.  He was done.  As a kind thing, he should have been put down.

He got lucky too.  I was not an outside observer.  I knew his history, and what made him that way.  So I talked him out of getting the needle, paid $200 for him and now....Well, he's still a mess, but he's better.  And getting more bold every day.  He will most likely never be whole. 

I argue with myself over this issue all the time.  And the only solution I can see, is that there isn't one....We keep breeding them.

There is no shortage of dogs and cats in our country.  We have skewed ideas about spaying and neutering.  We create Designer Dogs (Mr. Scared-dog, my big guy, is one such dog) to suit the latest trends with no regard for the lives wasted in the process.  What happens to all the "not-so-designer" puppies?  The ones that don't look the way you wanted.....Most likely, they are culled from the herd.  Dead.

We don't neuter because we're worried our dogs won't Pee Like a Man, or that he'll act like a bitch.  

We don't spay because we believe it'll make her calmer to have a litter.  Plus, the kids will get to play with her puppies.....

We need to realize that we can't save them all, and that's ok.  For now.  Until we change as a whole, as a community, as a species, we have to realize the humane need for euthanasia.  That dog who's been sitting in the shelter for three years?  Do her a favor.

That dog, who rushes his fence in the shelter because he's scared to death of everything, and you don't have enough employees or volunteers to walk him around during visiting hours (y'know, show people he's not truly aggressive at all), do him a favor.

That one, the pregnant one....She's potentially 14 more dogs.  Cute ones.  Yes, you'll find them homes, probably, but that's 14 more already adult dogs who won't because she dropped a bunch of cuteness on the floor.  Cuteness that most likely will be turned out, lost, abused or neglected before they come back to you in 9-14 months because they're "CRAZY."  Two or three of them might make it their whole lives with the same family....and be loved like mad for their whole lives.....Do those other 14 dogs a favor.....

I know, I'm a jerk.  But I see the need for kill shelters.  WE have created that need.  

I see those stickers for No-kill Nation, and I wish.  I truly do.  But being realistic about it.....Probably never going to happen.  This makes me nauseous.  Literally sick to my stomach to think about all the beautiful, wonderful, loving souls (dogs, cats, small animals, livestock, etc) that won't live their lives because we made it that way.

We suck.