Bits on Barking: Personality Four--Attention Barkers

"mom mom mom  Lois  Lois Lois Lois  mommy mommy mom moooom mom...."

"Bark bark bark wuf wuf wuf wuf arooo arooo arooo arf arf bark!!!..."

Simply put, this is the exact same behavior.  If your fur-kid is hunting you down, staring at you and barking, he is doing it for attention.  It is loud, obnoxious, interruptive and can really put the kibosh on any of your social gatherings...unless dealt with appropriately.

Of course, just as with any sort of barking, you have to determine what kind of personality your dog has in order to choose a method of redirection that will be most effective.  Naturally there are some definite Do's and Do Not's for curbing this behavior:

1. Do not hit the dog.  Period.
Slapping, kicking, "chuffing," or otherwise hitting the dog for noise will never work.  It will only teach your dog that being around you is potentially hazardous to his health, and will damage your relationship.

2. Do not scream "Quiet!!!" "Shut UP" or any other thing at your dog.  The dog is looking for attention, and if her barking at you causes you to bark right back...well.....

3. Determine if there is a reason beyond being a pest.  Did you teach your pup to alert you to a bathroom emergency by barking?  Is your dog named Lassie, and is Timmy in the well?  Knowing whether this is a chronic, annoying habit, or something your dog just suddenly does is important.  There are countless stories out there of a usually quiet dog suddenly barking, even growling at their person in a effort to get attention for something dire---such as a fire in the kitchen; or the baby wandering off....use some sense here...

4.  Do not squeeze the dog's muzzle shut.  This is a great way to make your dog bite you.  Think about it; your dog is in an excited state and you snap his mouth shut, possibly catching his lips or tongue between his teeth, then you squeeze, causing pain...what do most animals do when something hurts?  That's right, they lash out.  What may have started as a "look at me" behavior, has now become either an angry moment, or is now a great game!  "ha ha! you can't catch me human! now we'll really have some fun!"  He may see this as an opportunity to wrestle and dodge away from you, but hey, he's got 100% of your attention, right?

5. Do not use an air horn.  I repeat...Do not use an air horn.

This may work as a temporary fix, but first of all, a louder noise to stop a noise is only going to work for so long.  Secondly, is that something you really want to  bust out in the middle of a dinner party?  Or if your dog starts this nonsense noise at 11pm? 

Alright, so what do you do?  The most effective way?  Nothing.  Exactly nothing.  Do not make eye contact.  Do not Look at, Talk to, or Touch the dog until the barking has ceased.  It may go on for hours, and hours.  It is very simple--If it works to get your attention, the dog will repeat it.  If it does not do anything (as in, you pretend the dog doesn't exist) you will experience a very unpleasant time of cacophonous noise, as what used to work no longer does, but then, it will cease.  There will be an "extinction burst" where the dog may get louder, more obnoxious, and perhaps try other means to gain your attention, but if you stick to it, it will get better....provided the dog is not barking for any other reason than your attention.

I know most humans can't do that.

The barking it out is tough.  It's like sitting next to someone in the car who insists on yelling your name, over and over and over and over.  Most people can't ignore that, which is why I am also going to give you some more interactive things you can do to help this behavior go away....For some reason, people just feel better if they are "doing something about it."

First, make sure that everyone in the house is prepared to help you by sticking with, and being consistent with whatever method you decide to try.  You will get spotty and selective results, meaning the dog may get better, but will still attempt this way of gaining attention, unless all are on board.  This also means you need to communicate to any guests that visit---"Alright, this is Sparky.  He is learning not to be so very loud for attention, so if he is looking at you and barking, can you please not look at him?  I will handle him for you, but if he's ever going to learn, we need everyone to have the same non-reaction.  Sound good?"  Most guests are happy to help, and if they can't...take Sparky away from them and give him something to do in another room.

Let's say you have a rather shy dog, who has figured out that the fastest way to get mom's attention is to stand and bark at her...You wouldn't want to use a method that is too "over the top" with that kid, as you wouldn't want to scare her away from you altogether.  With that one, it may be most effective to leave a leash dragging from her collar (or harness) so that when she begins to bark at you, the reaction you now give is to pick up the leash and lead her into another room.  Closing her in this room all by herself until she is quiet (and yes, you will be repeating this what seems like a million times before she finally puts it together that her outburst is causing an extreme lack of attention, instead of what she's used to) is a great, non-physically harmful way to deter this noise.  It is vital that during this process you do not talk to, or look at the dog.  Lack of attention.

What about the IN YER FACE personality? 

Well, that guy may respond a bit better to having a job.  And here's where you get to be more involved with your dog's education.  If every time he lopes over to you, yelling your name, you pick up the leash you left attached to him, and ask him to lay down; preferably on his mat/bed, and ask him to Stay he may stop bugging you in this way.  It's very hard for a dog to keep barking when in a Down....I've seen it, but it's rare.  You may also find success in asking him to do some puppy push-ups...Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down, Sit, Down....Do enough of them to wear him out a bit, then ask him to go lay down.

Should you have a dog that falls somewhere between shy and up-your-nose, using a Body Block (see article "Just Back Off a Bit" for instructions) to move the dog out of your space may be effective.  Be ware that this may also spark a game of dancing around and playing with you (the opposite of what you want,) so if this becomes the case, use something else.  Say a calm "No" as you do this, and continue to body block until the dog diverts, and moves away from you.

Teach your dog to Sit for attention instead.  If every time your pup races up to you for attention, you ask for a Sit and only touch or praise or reward the pup for doing so, the pup begins to use this as a method of gaining attention, instead of yelling at you.

Try a squirt bottle.  If you've never employed the shock-factor a blast of harmless water to the face can sometimes be, give it a whirl.  Again, I stress that this is a method that requires you to say nothing to the dog while administering.  He barks, you squirt (I prefer the little pocket sized water-guns, or a small water bottle that can hang from your belt).  You will know if this is going to work in the first 1-3 squirts.  Some dogs LOVE being sprayed with water, so if yours seems in to this, obviously use something else.

Walk Away.  If just ignoring the dog seems too hard for you to do, try walking into another room and closing the door behind you.  What your dog wants is attention, so give him the opposite.

Teach your dog to use her "Inside Voice."  This one requires you to combine the ignoring your dog with rewarding for smaller and smaller noises.  Let's say in the middle of the HEY HEY HEY your dog suddenly lets out a smaller "hey..."  Stick a piece of treat in her face for that one.  It takes an enormous amount of patience, and some quick rewarding on your part, but as your dog catches on to which kind of noise is creating the reward (be sure to only look at the dog when you reward), you can then begin to label the smaller noises.  Say "Inside Voice" every time you reward (use your inside voice to say this please) and eventually your dog will understand what Inside Voice means.  We once taught a Treeing Walker Coonhound how to use her Inside Voice---Hilarious! Tiny howls and small wuffs instead of a full-on Five Mile Bay...Beautiful!!!


In extreme cases of non-stop barking for attention, (assuming there are extenuating circumstances that warrant this next suggestion; such as a business being run from the home, or persons with mental challenges creating an environment where other methods may not be possible...) you may find that investing in a Citronella Bark Control Collar may work quite well.  There are some that are automatic, meaning they will spray your dog in the face with a blast of harmless citronella and lemon every time they bark.  Others come on a remote control, which I like, because it then gives you a chance to introduce your dog to a word such as "enough."  These don't always work to deter the barking, but for some dogs, they can be a wonderful tool.  

Most attention barkers are extremely bored, have a lot of pent up energy, or can't stand the idea of anything else taking your attention from them.  In all Attention Barking cases, there is always a lack of satisfaction in other areas of the dogs life.
She's bored because her humans ignore her, unless she's barking at them.

He's wound for sound because his humans only walk him on the weekends.

 She hates when company is over, because she is always told to "shut up," but when it's just her human, she gets pet for barking.

He barks at Dad because every time he does, Dad gives him a cookie, or a bone to keep him busy....

So we come back to the ol' Do More With Your Dog discussion :)  Meet his or her physical and mental needs, as the animal species they are, and you may find this behavior diminishes a lot...Go the extra mile and stop giving it the attention it is geared to receive, and you may find you get a dog who has learned the fine art of planting one's butt on the ground in order to make you notice them.

This is Not a Toy: The rising popularity of the Cane Corso, as a direct result of BSL

Well Hi There!  I know, it's been a while---

There are several topics that have been buzzing in my brain as of late, and while I have the immediate reaction to address them all in one, huge posting, I will refrain and focus on one at a time.  This one, while I can't really speak to many other areas of the country, is happening right in front of my face.  In my town, in the surrounding areas, and on my social media feed, I am beginning to see too many similar dog faces.....The Cane Corso is the becoming "dog of the moment."

Let's take a quick look at him first.

He's muscular.  Stout.  Athletic.  Loyal.  Protective.  Receptive to training, when exposed to it properly.  Playful.  A dog who can work cattle, and watches your home.  A good family guy....So what's wrong with that?

Nothing.

I live in a Breed Specific Legislation zone.  This means that "pitbull" type dogs are under government regulation--You are not supposed to own them in my city, and this is creating a need/want for a substitute.  Unscroupulous individuals are everywhere, and here is no exception.  The demand for a replacement breed is up, so there are Humans out there advertising these guys and selling them to anyone who'll pay.  I mean, they do come in such wonderful color variations, and the more rare the color, the higher the price tag.....crop their ears and they resemble a giant pitbull.....What's the problem with that?

Everything.

The Cane Corso (pronounced Kah-nay Cor-so) is an Italian Mastiff. 

His original purpose is to guard.  This is the military version of the mastiff.  This guy is capable of doing some damage.  They require a TON of socialization and good leadership in training, if you hope to avoid a spoiled, pushy, dominant and potentially dangerous 100 lb dog running your life.  They are relatively quiet, so you won't get a lot of "warning" vocally about their intentions.  They can be shady around small children (again, if not properly handled/socialized), and people they don't know.  They are pretty outgoing as puppies, but as they mature, they draw their social circle closer, and prefer the company of family only.  Mr. Corso does not do well when left alone for long periods---Can you just picture the amount of destruction a mastiff suffering from Separation Anxiety can do? 

The Cane makes a terrible "my first dog," experience---Unless you happen to be a person who also hires a great Teacher when you get one, so you can learn to get control while he is still a small dog.  They excel at Protection Work, as they do want to please their leaders, and are built to dish it out.  They can be very independent and tend to make their own choices about how to handle a situation, so you may not be getting a dog who will listen to you the first time you speak (Training!!!!! Do more of it! ).  In short, this guy wants to be the boss, and will have a tough time relinquishing that title to you, unless you do so in a fair, firm and consistent way.  

In layman's terms, the Cane Corso is capable of being a real jerk. 

I know, I'm getting hate mail as I type from those who own/love these guys.  Don't get me wrong, I adore these enormous monsters.  They are amazing dogs.  But just like anything in the wrong/uneducated hands, they can be hard to control.  What concerns me, is that now, instead of a 40-60 pound dog (most pitbull types) out of control because their Humans don't know any better...we now have approximately 100 pounds of muscle, attached by leash (hopefully at least a leash) to a small framed, light weight Human .....

To wit:  I witnessed this really nice guy with his new Cane pup walking around a store.  She was 11 weeks old and already a goodly sized girl.  He's got her in public (hooray) and introducing her to everyone (awesome), but allowing her to mouth, jump and tug on strangers clothing (NOOOooooo!!!).  I talked with him.  He used to have pits.  Loved them.  But can no longer have them due to BSL, so he bought her, literally, because "they look like big pits."  uh oh.....

Fast forward a few weeks.  She's out again.  Only now, she's almost 40 pounds, and stands about to your knee.  She's leaping to the end of her leash, playfully, at anyone walking by.  Those foolish enough to stop and pet her get pummeled.  She launches into a woman, who almost gets taken out; the woman stumbles, the pup snags a hunk of the lady's skirt and starts to play tug-o-war with it.  Her person laughs, "ha ha! She's so playful!" and untangles the lady's clothing from his pup's mouth....I naturally talk to him about some classes, and mention how big his dog is going to be in just a few months.  Perhaps teaching her not to pull strangers' clothing may be a good idea?  "oh, she's alright.  My pits were like this too.  She'll grow out of it."  uh, no she won't.  I'm just saying this is going to be a big dog man....

Give it another couple weeks...Here he is again.  She's put on another two inches in height, and is now really pulling him around.  Somebody tries to pet her and she jumps on them, immediately biting this person's hands and arms.  That person walks away saying something to the guy about how teething puppies need more to chew on.  Her Human just stares at the receding person with a smile on his face.  Another person tries to pet her, and this biting routine is repeated, only this time, the person she's biting encourages her by playing slap-face.  OH! Yay! She goes nuts!  She's pouncing and gets his arm in her mouth and starts to play tug with it.  ................................. damn it................I go over, remove her from the guy, and return her to her Human.

"Let me make this more clear for you.  This animal is going to be almost one hundred pounds when she grows up.  This is not funny.  This is not cute.  This is a dog capable of taking someone's face off..... by accident.  She may be playing, but what if she does this to a child?!  Get her under control!  Get her in to a class, and stop letting your dog bite people!  Your lack of control is going to get her killed." 

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Good Dogs Die every day because of foolish actions like this.

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There is a Cane Corso around the corner from one of my clients who is destroying the corner of his fence line; he grasps the wire with his mouth and yanks it free from the wood it is poorly secured to...He is doing his job.  He is protecting his house from the Intruders who dare to walk their dogs past "his" property.  Owner actually watches this from the window, and does nothing.

There are two more (in a different neighborhood) who snap and snarl at each other, while leaping high enough to clear their fence; you can literally see 3/4's of their bodies above the privacy fence, as you walk by.  Luckily, they have not figured out how to jump over it...yet.  Owner will either yell from inside the house for them to "shut up," or come out on the porch and stare at you as you pass.

Still another is known for biting strangers hands/wrists "without warning" after his Humans give permission to pet him.  He is quick.  He chooses random people to threaten with body blocks, and then placing his nose on their body (usually the back of the thigh) and growling....  Owner in this case will giggle and say something like "_____(dog's name here)___ don't bite" without moving him away from the human he has threatened.

Two beautiful Corso dogs attend my favorite dog park---I now take my dogs to the other side when I see them.  Their person is texting and completely unaware that both her dogs are flanking weaker, smaller dogs and biting them in the back/neck/ears.  If the dog is tries to appease them by rolling over, they will really get serious and it usually ends with the smaller dogs owner screaming and yanking these big dudes off the other dog. Owner hears the yelling, sort of looks up and will weakly call out "___(dogs name's here)____ Be nice," before returning to her phone.....

In all four of these scenarios, these dogs are not inherently bad.  They are acting according to what comes naturally to them, in these situations...and has not been properly handled by their Humans.  They are owned by ignorant, dangerous people.  These dogs may well die early deaths.  They are huge animals not being responsibly handled.....

This is how Breed Specific Legislation starts.

No matter what sort of dog you have, be it a Border Collie, German Shepherd, Mutt or Mastiff, if you are irresponsible with it, the general public has a tendency to remember you.  They don't want to feel unsafe.  They don't like to be scared.  Or worried for their own family members.  These people will act.  They will go to city council, and make calls to Animal Control, and to the Police.  They will start calling these dogs "dangerous."

I know some wonderful Corso dogs.  They are in homes that have done some research, and realize that what they have is not a toy.  It is not an accessory to go with their lives as a symbol of how tough they are.  They understand that the Corso is not a "pitbull replacement."

They realize their dogs are a responsibility not to be taken lightly.  Their dogs are exemplary citizens, who can be trusted with children and other animals.  And if they can't handle it, these Responsible Humans are doing their diligence to keep them under control, and not placing them in situations that could potentially get their dogs killed.

I guess my point is that I am watching the rise of another breed's popularity, and it is breaking my heart.  I see the numerous gigantic dogs cycling into our local shelters; leftovers that the backyard breeder couldn't sell; or the teenagers that destroyed the apartment after someone bought them and didn't do anything with them....There are not enough homes for most of the dogs in there, much less 100 pounds of out of control...and a lot of them are black.   Those are not good odds. 

Bits on Barking: Personality Three....

The Multi-Dog Reactive Symphony!

 You know these dogs.  One barks at something, so the others sound off too.  Not really knowing exactly what the first guy is barking at.  Like a bunch of soldiers relaying a message from the lookout, your pack (be it two or 20) is now a cacophony of noise.  The followers may be joining the initial nonsense at whatever location he's chosen, or he may be wandering around just making noise every time the other one does.

You may have more than one "Sentry" who sounds off, but whatever the case, it seems if one barks, it sets them all off.  What the H do you do with that?! 

Well, you certainly can't yell at them to "shush" as this only conveys that barking is indeed what you want, because now you've joined in the bark with the dogs.

You could attempt using a disruptor of some kind.  Such as a squirt-bottle, or canned air hissers (the Pet Corrector, for instance) but that sort of thing has its drawbacks.  Some dogs actually like being sprayed in the face with water, or are unaffected by "scary" noises."  And you can easily build one of those obnoxious dogs that are "So good.  All I have to do is pick up the _____insert disruption device of choice here_____and she quiets right down."  The dog hasn't actually learned what not to bark at, but has a firm grasp of what happens when you brandish a "weapon."  And sure, if you try one of these, and love it, then fine, by all means, use it.  Just remember, you may not always have a bottle at hand.  There will be times you won't be anywhere close to a water bottle, or your little red can--yes, they do come with holster, so there's that...

Ok, let's say you've discovered the bottle works to disrupt the barking at your house.  If you want to instill an actual, long lasting lesson with it, you will need to be loaded.....With Treats!!  Getting a break in the noise is only the first step in curbing this habit.  As soon as you've sprayed the barker, and successfully silenced them, you absolutely MUST follow the quiet with a "Good, Quiet" as you reward your dogs. 

As you administer the "punishment" of the water pistol (ohhhh noooo, it's sooo awfullll!) you can say something simple, like "no" or "Enough," and follow it with your "good" or "thank you."

Remember what I said about a dog's need to be acknowledged for doing his job?  You will find faster success if you can first remember to thank your dog for a job well-done.  In my house, when the barking begins, you'll hear me say "Good Watching...Thank you...Enough."  The Big Guy is still struggling a bit, but that is because he is also a Fearful Barker.  We will talk about that personality later.

A dog who is told he is doing a good job when he warns you, is getting the praise he needs in order to more fully understand what you want when you do tell him to be quiet.  It is a dogs natural way to say "Hey!  There's something approaching!!! Rally the troops!!"  Sometimes, this vigilance gets out of hand, and when the whole pack joins in...wow...Rewarding dogs who quiet is where they learn what "Enough" really means.

Another way to quiet a multi-house, is to capitalize on jealousy.  Observe your dogs in these moments of barking, and see if you can figure out which one of them gets quiet first.  Once you have it pegged, he's your new Tool to teach the others to shush.  Make sure you have plenty of delicious rewards readily available, and either with, or without a disruptor, start doling out yummies the moment you get quiet out of one of them.  Continue to feed the one that shut up first small bits of delicious things, until the others notice.  It's sibling syndrome wielded with skill:
     "BARK BARK BARK BAR...waitaminnut...Is he eating over there?!  What the heck! I want some!"

 Most likely, your other dogs will catch on that Somebody is getting fed, and come over to see what's up.  When this happens, go ahead and give them a few pieces of food too, but not nearly as many as you gave your Tool Dog.  As you do, say something like "good" or "thank you"---this is becoming your Cue for the quiet.  As you repeat this practice, you may find that your mere presence causes them to stop barking and come looking for rewards.

Please Note:  If your dogs have ANY kind of food guarding/aggressions, DO NOT use food rewards when other dogs are present.  No need to put anyone in danger just for a moments peace.

My Tool dog used to be the Sentry.  He used to be the first to sound off all the time, (some days, I think now he only does it to get the other guy going so he can show off how good he's being...)  but he is also the one who quieted first.  The longer we practiced this, the shorter his outbursts became.  My dogs used to feed off each others excitement:
--Little Dog would alert and begin to bark.
--Big Dog would explode and run around looking for whatever he may be barking at.
--Little Dog would then be bolstered by Big Dogs chaos, and fly into a short-lived frenzy of high-pitched barks and whines.
--Big Dog continues to bark, still not really sure what he's barking at.
--Little Dog, being of superior intellect, suddenly notices there isn't anything real to bark at, and gets quiet.

It is in that moment where we doled out rewards to Little Dog.  After a few seconds, Big Dog would notice all the fuss being made over Little Dog.  "Oh Thank YOU! Enough.  Good Quiet!  Here's a snack!  Oh it's so delicious!  Here's another!  Thank you, Enough!"  Big Dog would race over---"Heeeey!  Where's mine?"  "oh! Thank you too!  Good Quiet!  Here you go!"

These days, it looks like this:
 --Regardless of who starts it, Little Dog sounds off a few times, then runs to me for his reward.  Should he think barking at the thing is actually worth barking at, I simply have to call out "Thank you, Enough" and he will cease and run to me for his reward.
--Big Dog will follow and almost race him to me, as he has learned that the dog who gets there first, will get an extra cookie.

What we've built is a couple of dogs who are learning to Self Correct their own noise.  Awesome. Which also means, now I have dogs I can pay in Praises more and more often than I dole out food.  More Awesome. 

Bits on Barking: Personality Two--The Easily Distracted Barker

Now, this guy may seem much like the Neurotic Noisemaker, but with this personality, there is an obvious cause.  The dog is triggered by a stimulus, barks for a short time (30 seconds - a minute approximately) and then quiets.  The quiet doesn't last.  Just as you think he's given it up, something else gets him going.  The stimulus could be as small and benign as a leaf blowing by, or he may actually see an approaching animal or human, but whatever he sees, he barks at.

 The trick with this kind of personality, is to realize that he is most likely an extremely nervous guy.  He is insecure and worried, and anxious all the time.  He is probably not getting enough physical exercise or mental stimulation.  He is high-strung, and now his alert, spastic little mind is directly connected to his vocalizations.

How many times in an hour do you think you "notice" something?  Doesn't matter what it is, think for a moment...............
Your Distracted Barker "notices" everything with his eyes and ears!  And when he does, consider him saying something like this:
"What Was That?!"
"Dis you guys hear That?!"
"Did you see THAT?!"
"HEY!! Over There! What IS That?!"


To him, everything is an event worth rallying the troops over, because everything he sees or hears gets us barking with him..."Hey! Shut UP!"  "Reggie! Quit IT!" "NO!!Bad Dog! SHHHHH!"  The fact that we are directing our negativity towards him, is none of his concern...We've noticed!  You have now acknowledged what he was barking at.  Good Job Reggie.  Carry on.

So, what do we do to help him?  Since yelling at him won't work, we need to take the edge off this dog's energy.  As you've probably guessed, he needs more exercise!!!!  More Play!!! More things that stimulate his mid to focus and to figure things out, instead of that simple animal reactive addiction to sound that he's built for himself.

1. Enroll this personality in a fun, fast moving class.  Agility or nosework are great for these guys.  If he's already got a pretty decent handle on obedience, look for a Rally Obedience class if you're up for a challenge---Waaaaay harder than "Sit," I can tell you that for sure.

St Bernard Agility!!! Yes!!! This makes me smile!!!

2. Teach him games like "Find It" or "Seek."  These are geared towards using his #1 sense:  His Nose.  Thus, the suggestion for a nosework class.  When a dog is sounding off, he is essentially reacting to what his eyes, or his ears, told him, and not using his nose to tell him if this is an actual threat or not.  His mind is far less focused.  The exception being scent hounds, which are bred to sound off as they track, but that is a different story.

3.  Reward your dog in moments of silence.  Catching those breaks in the vocals, and labeling them for your Distracted Barker is tough.  You may only have a few seconds of quiet at first, in which to stuff his face with something delicious, or give him his favorite toy.  Ultimately it is worth it to work through the frustration.  Find something he really likes, and using a cue such as "Quiet" or "Enough" (in a nice tone of voice) begin to build longer spaces of noiselessness. 
     It looks like this:

"BarkBarkBarkBarkBArk............" *suddenly, you stick a piece of chicken in his mouth in the small silence, saying "good Quiet" as you do.  Should he focus on you, without noise, continue to give him a few small bits of meat (cheese, treats, whatever he likes!) as you repeat "good, Quiet."  I actually use an entire short sentence for some dogs, as I would like them to pay attention to the sound of my voice:  "oh, thank you!  Quiet dogs get cheese!  good, quiet..." all the while, feeding them.

4.  Use a leash or long line (not a retractable for this exercise).  As with the Neurotic Noisemaker, you may need to "physically change" what he is doing, in order to calm the vocal storm.  Don't say anything to him as you pick up the line.  Ignore his barking as you begin to reel him in towards you in a steady pull--no jerking or yelling here, please; it won't work.
     The moment he gets quiet, drop the leash, say "good Quiet" or "Thank you, Enough" (as I do with my personal dogs) and throw him a piece of cheese, or a new squeaky toy, or something cool that you know will divert his attention from whatever he was initially focused on.
     Should he immediately go back to the bark, pick up the leash again, give it a tug, calmly say (not yell)  "no...quiet" and start to reel him back in.  Continue to reward every time you get that silence, and he will begin to quiet more quickly. 

 If you get the feeling that he is changing this game to "I bark.  When I bark, my person gives me food, so I'll bark more" ask for an additional behavior before giving out the food.  Try using "Watch Me" or " Down," provided your dog knows these things....He doesn't ?  Oh, well then I suggest looking up how to teach this, and get to it. :)
 
5.  As your dog becomes conditioned to your rewarding when he gets quiet, you can test his mind's new addiction.  When he goes off, try calling out "good Quiet" and see if he stops to turn to you for his reward.  If he does, Congratulations!!!! You have built an off-switch for your Distracted Barker!!!

     If he doesn't, that meant he needs more practice, and more help from you, and that long line.
This technique can be applied inside your house too.  Just use a shorter leash (6-8ft) and begin moving the dog through the house.

Bits on Barking: Personality One

So, now that you know why he's barking (see "NOISE!BARKHOWLWOOFBAROOOOOoooooooo!" article; Sept. 2014) how on earth do you help quiet the cacauphony?  I wish I could say it was a fast, simple solution--and in truth, it IS simple, but which method you choose, must match your particular dog's personality, and his propensity for making noise, in order to have any kind of success at all.  Therein lay the complexity of helping to calm the verbal chaos.

Over the next few articles, we will address a few of the more common "personalities" when it comes to this obnoxious habit, and a few ways to create more calm and quiet in your life.  Once you have identified "why" your dog is barking, then you can have a more educated approach to how you "fix" this.  

Personality Number One:  The Neurotic Noise-Maker

This is a guy who has an initial stimulus of unknown origin, and just can't seem to stop barking.  I'm not talking about a dog who barks AT something, or someone, he can hear or see, and then eventually slows, or gets distracted and does something else.  No, this guy barks in a continuous stream of obscenity at nothing.  He barks when you open the back door for him, and continues to bark as he races around the yard, as you throw a ball for him, or even better......he barks as he squats to poop.  There is no cessation of noise.  No break in the insanity.  He just barks.

For this sort of issue, as with most behavioral "problems," please start with a visit to your veterinarian.  There is such a thing as OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder) in canines, and such a thing may well warrant a short-term course of medication.  These problems can be, and frequently are, helped without drugs, but if your dog is suffering, why wouldn't you give them every advantage to a more relaxed, calm way of being?

With or without neurologically altering drugs, some training is necessary.  Bad behaviors can become mental addictions, and in order to change that pattern, you need to build some alternative behaviors for the dog to work with.

1.  Never let your dog out of doors without a long line, or leash of some kind attached to you.  If your OCD barker is not attached to you in some fashion that will allow you to reel him in, how are you planing to control his actions?

2.  Get your dog going on some basic obedience in an environment that doesn't send him into the fits.  Even if this means you must start your training in your bedroom, with soft music playing and your dog attached to a leash (and a whole lot of whatever treat/toy he finds most appealing), do it.  Learning how to "Sit" "Down" "Come" and "Leave It" may seem irrelevant to the issue, but getting your dog to do things that require thought, instead of simple reaction, helps change the way his head works.  They also give you ways to begin to show your dog how to "shut off the crazy."

3.  Build some controlled crazy by increasing the play with your dog.  As you teach your pup to do some basic obedience, and more tricks, start incorporating it into play sessions.  In your controlled environment, have your dog play.  In the middle of this play, stop and suddenly ask for a "Down" or other such behavior that you have taught your pup.  This will help him learn to change gears, as it were, on his behavioral patterns.  "OHMYGAWD!!!MY TENNIS BALL IS SOOO....wait...did she say 'sit?'  ok...now i'm sitting....and now she made me down....hmmmm....OOH TENNIS BALL IS BACK!!!YAY!!!"  

4.  If at all possible, increase your dogs level of physical exercise.  Just as this has been proven effective in managing certain mental disorders in Humans, this is a vital part of a healthy dog.  I feel like a broken record, but please, DO more with your dog.  Yes, I know, he is super annoying to try to walk with all that noise happening.  But if he's annoying AND full of excess energy, it is going to be much, much more difficult to break this habit.

 Ok, OCD dog blasts out the door and .... No...wait, come back here (use long line to reel dog back into house)....Sit yourself.  Thank you.  Let's try that again.  Wait...(open the door as the dog waits patiently)...and he's off again!!!!....come on back....try it again.  Sit....Wait....(open the door again)...this time he waits....

Getting over the first step of teaching OCD guy that hitting the threshold at Mach 9 is only going to result in your patiently, and gently pulling him back into the house to try a softer, slower entry, is the most important step.  Most of these personalities have built the reactionary association that "going outside = high speeds and noise," so reprogramming him to have a calmer approach to it altogether is key.  Yes, it will take you "forever" to let him out to pee, but guess what?  He's going to learn to do it without spazzing out.

As you work through this, each and every time he looks as though he's becoming too intense, or you feel an episode of barks coming on, reel him towards you, and ask for some behaviors.  Silly tricks like "High Five" or "Dance" don't require your pup to sit on ground that may be muddy, cold, or otherwise uncomfortable, so get creative.  The point is to redirect all that chaos, into a controlled, quiet, enjoyable time in the back yard.

Next Time:

Personality Number Two--- The Easily Distracted Barker.....

A Lot for a Little: Using Addiction to Cure Your Training Struggles

Congratulations!  You and your pup have graduated to the next level of training.  You took them to a basic puppy kindergarten level class, where they learned their first lessons in social play.  You taught them how to Sit, Down, Come (most of the time), Leave It, the beginnings of a good Stay and hopefully, a few more choice things.  Now it is time to move on.

It is time to learn the true Art of Distraction.

 ...Literally, stop giving your dog any time to think about anything else but the reward they want from you.  Up until now, you have gone slowly.  Too slowly.  It is time to show your dog that You are the distraction to pay attention to.  If you begin to think of yourself as The Distraction, instead of the person trying to keep the dogs attention away from outside distractions, you may find yourself being more creative in your approach. 

Most basic classes are geared towards teaching the Human to communicate with their puppies.  I know mine is.  The speed at which the class moves, is for your benefit; not the dogs.  The dogs can move and learn a whole lot faster than my kindergarten classes go.  This is because if we were moving at the speed of Dog, no one would enjoy my class but me.

At this point in your puppy's development in training (we'll call this level 1 1/2), he should be capable of doing a lot for very little.  Most of you have made the mistake of removing the reward too soon, and are expecting your dog to work for free well before he is ready.  If this has happened, your dog is no longer focused on you, and you have become ineffective background sound attached to his leash.  You may be wondering why you took a class in the first place, as the dog clearly hasn't learned anything.

Or the opposite has occurred, and you are still giving the dog too many rewards for every little thing she does that is correct.  And you now have a dog who refuses to listen, unless you are standing right in front of her, stuffing treats down her gullet....Until something more interesting comes along, and she decides THAT is more fun.


In both cases, you now have a dog who doesn't listen "unless they choose to."  So how do you fix this?  How do you become The Distraction?

First, make sure that the reward you are working with makes your dog bananas.  Seriously.  If you are using a reward that holds a higher value for your dog, he will work harder to get it, which ultimately means you will need to dole out less of them, and he will give you more focused attention between rewards.

Positive Reinforcement:  The Good Addiction, as it were.  You get the animal hooked on treats, or a favorite game, or toy, and then withhold the One thing the animal now "needs."  'Needs' being in quotation, as I am not referring to vital and basic physical needs, such as water, shelter, nutrition, etc.  I wouldn't infringe on a creature's Rights, and neither should you.  Find the thing that your dog wants more than anything, and you dole it out as You choose to...So long as the dog stays hooked.  Now you have an Addict, and you can use this to create behaviors that You want, or continue to build upon the basic ones you learned in that kindergarten environment.

Couple this addiction with some kind of enforcer, or corrective, when the dog chooses to ignore the given cue.  I am a big fan of Corrective Circles:  I ask for a Sit when the dog is stopped next to my side, for instance.  The dog knows darn well what Sit means (we've spent the past 3 weeks practicing it, yes?) and stares at me like she's never heard the word before.  Rather then fall in to the natural Human tendency to be louder, or repeat myself, (or my least favorite move---The Human who immediately goes for their treat bag when the dog ignores them)  I will simply say "no" and take her in a tight, small circle, using my body and the leash to bring her with me.  When we arrive and the place we started, I will again say "Sit."  When she does the Sit, she will now receive several bits of the Thing That Makes Her Crazy....Her ultimate reward.

 I will then repeat the exercise.  Coming to a stop and asking for that Sit next to me.  She will most likely do this eagerly in anticipation of The Thing That Makes Her Crazy.  But rather then allow her the predicted result, I will simply drop my hand with The Thing That Makes Her Crazy, in front of her nose (yes, just like we did when she was 10 wks old), and immediately step forward, giving her whatever cue I am using for the "move with me" motion.  Only a step in to this, I will stop and ask for another Sit at my side.

Provided I am using the right reward, she will most likely park it quick. Her initial frustration at not receiving The Thing That Makes Her Crazy is now working for me, instead of against.  At this point in the game, that Thing That Makes Her Crazy in my hand is now my magic wand, and I can most likely ask for several rounds of stepping and sitting, before I give her even a teensy taste of whatever it is she wants.  I can move her closer to dogs.  I can ask for so much more focus in distracting environments, simply because I am moving at the speed of dog now.

This is not a skill that only Professional Dog Teachers can possess.  You can do this.



The quicker, and more fluidly you can learn to transition from one exercise to the next, the better your dogs focus will become.  Start them off with a 'hit' of The Thing That Makes Them Crazy, then make it completely unpredictable as to when that Thing will be provided again, and they most likely will work harder to get it.  They are no longer at the baby stage of needing to move slowly, or take as many breaks in between.

When you are still moving at the speed of "...Sit.....Good....Treat...Come...Sit" your dog may be doing this:

"Sit.(ok, i planted my butt, and nothing happened fast enough...ooh...did you see that?!....What's that dog doing over there?...did he just get a better treat than me?...) Good..(ok cool, but HEY! What's happening over there?) Treat (Awesome! When I look over there, my person gives me a treat! I should look over there more often!)..."

Timing is everything.  Learning to keep your dog moving, and working, is tough.  I get that.  But if you don't learn to use that magic wand to its potential, you may never wean your pup off the treats to a satisfactory degree.  I still carry rewards in my pocket when I walk my dogs.  Not necessarily because they need it anymore, but because I believe in paying my dogs for a job well done.

If suddenly we come upon a particularly tough distraction, one which may result in my dogs being too involved with other dogs, or mobbed by kids, I will step to the side and work my dogs.  This helps me in two ways.

One:  The approaching distraction may see that the dogs are actively engaged in some kind of training exercise, and stay out of our space.

Two:  It is an excellent opportunity for my dogs to practice the stuff they know. I get to reinforce all the training I have built, to keep their skills sharp and functioning.

And if I am using The Thing That Makes Them Crazy.....They will be more than satisfied with the smallest of tastes for the largest of jobs.

Sausage Failing you? Find another way.

Yes, there is such a thing as a dog who most likely shouldn't be allowed to be too close to other dogs, or people for that matter. 

This does not mean that this dog should be relegated to a life of seeing the inside of his backyard fence, or snarling at things through the windows. 

This does not mean that this dog is incapable of working.  It does not mean he is incapable of changing.....to some degree.  Sometimes, this degree is so far away from what you started with, that you cannot believe the dog you now have.  Sometimes, it is a small degree of change, but the dog is happier and you are less frustrated, and on the way to a better life..... 


Nor does it mean, in my opinion, that he is "unfixable."  You may find yourself with what I like to call a "Lifetime Management Issue," but this 'issue' can be worked with.  Telling a person that their dog is hopeless, and therefore, you may as well do nothing and allow this animal to spend the rest of his life in the same, sorry, upset, stressed-out state of mind, while you go about ignoring his pain does not sit well with me.  Having one 'trainer' tell you the dog is hopeless, and taking their word for it, without the agreeing opinion of your vet, and at least one other trainer (with different methodology), is damning your dog to a lifetime without quality. 

So your dog has been diagnosed as a cat-killer, or has landed several other dogs in the hospital....This doesn't mean he's done for.  This means you have a choice.

You have a choice to work with what you have, and do some heavy groundwork to help change his emotional response to the stimulus that sends him into overdrive.  Your life will change.  Your choices about how you walk him, where you walk him, and when you walk him will change.  You will become his bodyguard.  You will become more outspoken than you ever thought possible.  You will accept that he may never be Safe, but with you around, he is no longer Dangerous.  Does that make sense?

The other side of that coin, is to humanely euthanize such an animal.  In my career, I have only suggested this to three people (cat-killing is not an offense worth euthanizing for, by the way).  And with this recommendation, came the suggestion to also have the animal examined thoroughly by a veterinarian, and at least two other aggression specialists.  When I "throw out" such a heavy sentence, it usually comes with an alternative.
 
"Your choice is to commit to never having children while you have this dog, as she will be a Lifetime Management Issue, or to euthanize."

"Your choice is to realize he will be functional for You, or to euthanize if you ever decide you cannot handle him and the lifestyle he requires anymore."

"If by 'send him to a farm' you mean euthanize, then yes.  That is a viable option for him at this point, unless you are willing to fully commit to his treatment and management....."

In all three cases, the choice to commit to this and realize that it WILL be a ton of work, is there.  Euthanasia is not the Only option.....But you either commit to the dog you have, or do him that favor.  You cannot pass this level of problem off to someone else.  That is not fair.  You have no idea what someone else will do to him for his infractions.

And leaving him at home day in and day out, is not ok. 

"oh but he's happy!  He's getting a little fat, but he's so happy."  No.  He isn't.  He's bored out of his mind.  He is like a crazy person in an asylum.  He is getting his drugs and cookies, but he's not in therapy.  Without therapy and counseling, we may never know if he can be helped, or if truly, genetically, he is so flawed that he is a Lifetime Management Issue....and even then, let's get him out for a walk of some kind! 

Shall we?.....

Pitbull Puppies make me sick

Not at all kidding.  I am a member of a few facebook forums that are supposed to be a community of responsible, pitbull loving/accepting folks, and frankly, the number of "Lookit what I got!!" posts with a photo of a stupid-cute pit puppy churn my guts.

 I hope, in genuine sincerity, that you acquired that pup from a rescue.  I hope you didn't pay money for that to some dude off of Craigslist....or worse....."Yay! My Easter Present!!!"  Are you kidding me....?  Really?  Someone bought you a live pitbull puppy for Easter?  Not only does this fire me up on the do not give animals as presents front, it makes me worried that You might be a responsible Human, but the person who bought you that cute dog, had no idea what they were doing, and gave a back-yard breeder money to continue the practice.  And do you truly have time to raise and train that new present?! 

I know that there are TONS of puppies that cycle through the rescues, but I get so sad when I think about the senior dogs, and older dogs being passed over because someone opted for the cuteness instead.  I also understand that in some situations, getting a young dog is actually the better option.  You may actually have a good reason for wanting to raise your own; put in what you want; not have to deal with or fix any rescue baggage...I get that.  I have had moments where I too have considered a pup the next go'round.  But then I think of the numbers.

 4,800 out of 7,000.

That is the number of pitbull type dogs euthanized in my state (Colorado) 2013.  That is a lot of dead dogs that probably didn't have to be dead.   

I also know I am most likely being too cynical about this.....but I fear I may be absolutely right.  Most of these posts do not divulge where or whom the pup was "gotten" from.  They somehow "got" another puppy to go with the other three full-grown pits they already own.  "Well, my dogs wouldn't like a grown dog, so we got a puppy."  ok, fine...where did you get that puppy?

When "It's Ok" is Not.

As a species, we humans are many things. One of the biggest, is that we are a nurturing sort. We see a baby animal and we fall to open-mouthed “awwww!!!” and can't help but want to cuddle it close. We are triggered by their adorable faces and sweet breath; their tiny awkward walks, or their fur, or their tails or paws or.....But this kind of reaction can be a two-edged sword. When we take in these tiny little babies, dogs specifically, we are assuming the role of Parent and Teacher. Letting our natural human instincts tell us how to raise these animals, can sometimes backfire on us. Especially with Fear.


Fear can ruin a great puppy really fast, if not handled appropriately. It is a natural and necessary emotion felt by every living thing. It is designed to keep us alive. To tell us whether the situation calls for Fight or Flight, but to us Humans, it is a little different. We are a reasoning species, so when we are faced with something fearful, our reasoning brains can look at it objectively (provided the fear is not so great that we fall into a panic attack, or have such severe anxiety that we cannot function) and figure out if this Fear is something that actually can harm us, or if we can “work through it.” For a dog, Fear is quite different. When a dog becomes fearful, Nature tells her to either Fight it, Run from it, or Roll Over and Hope It Doesn't Eat You....Which can sometimes lead to Defending Oneself, or Fighting It.


Your growing puppy will experience two, and sometimes three, Fear Phases as she grows. Somewhere between 3 and 11 weeks of age (give or take, depending on the pup) your puppy is cruising through her first Fear phase. A pup's eyes and ears begin to open around 13 days old. Her body becomes much more aware of things at this point, and if the handling of this pup is rough, scary, very isolated or painful, this can set her up for being a fearful pup as she moves into her other phases of growth. Some puppies are genetically prone to shyness, which can lead to a more fearful adult dog if not handled kindly. This stage of your puppy's life is very important for good handling and socialization to noises, humans, short periods of being alone (very short!!!! No more than a few minutes at a time. They NEED their littermates and their Momma), variances in temperature, and safe exposure to other pets. Exposing your puppy to new dogs, is not recommended if they have not had at least two rounds of vaccinations however. From a training perspective, in order to get a balanced dog, one would want to begin exposure as soon as possible. From a medical viewpoint, this is not safe. Talk with your Veterinarian and see if they can help you come up with safer ways to expose your little one, so you can take advantage of this imprinting window.

What if you have no idea what happened around your pup at that early development stage? No worries! You still have plenty of time to help your shy puppy gain confidence. Even a perfectly handled, bold puppy will experience these psychological growth periods, and can experience fears. The second phase usually hits between 4 and 6 months of age. This is where you and all your great training seems to have become irrelevant to your puppy, as they are also right in the middle of a stage that draws them out of the infantile behavior of following you everywhere. They are becoming more settled in their personalities, and just like any teenage human, they want more space to explore. During this time, you may notice your pup is eager to learn new things, but just as quickly, she seems to ignore them if the situation tells her that something more interesting than You is happening. If your puppy all of a sudden acts frightened of something, and you really cannot put a finger on “why,” now is the perfect time to enroll in a well-respected obedience class. Something positive is best, as the entire goal should be to change the puppy's mind about different situations.


The third phase is a bit of a mystery. Some dogs seem to hit it hard, while others don't experience it at all. Or they have, but in such subtle ways we missed it. Those are the pups who usually have a well-grounded background, and are now capable of being initially scared of something, but are using their wits and curiosity to explore it, and determine if it's worth staying scared of or not. This last Fear period usually presents itself between 6-12 months. This third phase may also truly be your pup's second phase, just late in arriving. A dog that hits this phase and suddenly seems to refuse to 'do' any of the fun things she used to enjoy, such as visiting with other dogs, or going for walks, or acting fearful of certain people, may get “stuck” here if not given a good balance of proper correction and reward.


Some dogs come into the world afraid. Genetically, they are prone and weren't given the positive conditioning necessary to change how they see things. You did everything right. You socialized this pup gently. You softly exposed her to new things and people. You are using positive methods, and you still have a pup who cowers and shakes, or yelps and tries to escape when a new situation arises. Or you have adopted an adult dog with these issues. In either case, there is hope. It is never too late to help an older dog, or completely change a pup.


Here is why “ok” is not: In our latest group class, we have a rather boisterous and comfortable group, with the exception of a 4.5 month old German Shepherd. He is terrified of the other puppies. His fear is such that he screams and tries to run away if they get too close to him. His parents (owners) confusion is deepened because this pup lives with two other big dogs at home, and is comfortable with them. The neighbor dogs scare him to pieces too; he flees the fence-line screaming whenever they are present. They initially did what we all want to do as Humans: Petted him and softly talked to him, and told him “It's ok. Calm Down. You're fine. Shhhhh....It's ok” as they pulled him closer to their bodies. The scared pup is now restrained, and he is now between his Pack and the Scary Dogs. Now his protective instinct shows. He changes his tone from “save me” to “STAY AWAY” and begins to add growls and real barks to his noises. This is not Ok at all.

So what do you do? As a human, it is our natural instinct to cuddle and soothe this puppy. If we are dealing with a frightened child, hugging him close and telling him he is ok may actually help calm him down (assuming the child is old enough to understand words). For a dog, this is not the case. When our pups hear us telling them it is 'ok' in what we hear as soothing, they may actually be construing as us saying “I know...shhhh...I'm scared too...it's ok...what you're doing is right....we'll get through this together....” Our worry for the dog is what he feels in that moment, and this emotion can make him feel as though he is right for being afraid in that situation. Some trainers may tell you to simply ignore this behavior, and wait for the pup to calm down, and then give them a reward. I disagree with this approach when the pup has moved into that protective stance.


When the pup is first exhibiting the fear, yes, you can ignore it and wait for the better, less frantic behaviors to present themselves, and then offer a reward. This is the stage of screaming and trying to run away. Allow the pup to find the end of the leash (and please make sure the dog is in a well-fit collar or body-harness to prevent escape) and do whatever freaking out he is going to do. Should he not begin to calm in 10-15 seconds, move a ways farther away from the scary thing to wait it out. As soon as the pup calms, wait a few seconds (2-4) and offer a yummy reward. If the pup is into the food at that point, see if you can use it to lure him a bit closer to the scary thing. Each step earns a reward. Should the pup recoil, you have now found the distance he is comfortable with, and can begin working there to build more confidence.

If the pup has moved into growling or defensively threatening the “scary” thing, telling him it is 'ok' is the exact opposite of what you want. Instead, disrupt his behavior. The simple way is to immediately step in front of him, close to his body space so you are essentially invading the behavior. Issue a stern, but not loud, “No,” or “quiet” cue. Do not repeat yourself, “no..no..no..no” this does nothing to help: It only gives your dog the impression that you are barking at him. This will exacerbate his frustration and he may become more upset. Often, your invasion of body space is enough to break the pup's focus, and he will be quiet. The moment he is no longer growling or barking, (you may have to Body Block him backwards a few feet before this happens) step to his side again, so he can clearly see the thing that frightened him, and if he looks that way for 1-2 seconds without the noise, immediately tell him “Good” and give him a super tasty reward.

It is important to remember to step away so he has a clear view of the scary things before feeding him, or the dog may begin to think that you are rewarding him for his initial defensive noise and reaction. A dog only has about 1.5 seconds of process time to connect action to reward. By rewarding him when he is quietly looking at the scary thing, and “correcting” him by taking that ability away, he will begin to relax. If he isn't relaxing, you are simply too close to the scary thing for him to cognitively function in a non-reactive fashion.


There are different techniques that will work for each individual dog, so please do not take this suggestion as gospel, simply one method that worked for this particular pup.


Over the course of the class (approximately an hour) he relaxed using this technique to a degree that allowed him to be only five feet away from the rest of the group. Respecting his fear by not forcing him to be too close, and not allowing the other pups to reach him yet, is also a vital component of helping him gain confidence. Had his people continued to assure him that this was “ok,” he would not have begun to see when acting like that really is not ok. Dogs learn by what gets them paid, ie what gets the treats, or what works for them. At one point, this pup was so worked up he had no interest in the morsels of meat being offered; he was so far into his fear that his number one sense was not working. His barking and posturing was working! The other pups were being kept far away by their owners, but he was learning his bravado was working...He didn't want the dogs near him, and they weren't. By moving him a bit away, and telling him what was inappropriate, he learned to relax.


I didn't used to feel this way about the word “ok.” When I was younger, I thought dog 'experts' were stupid to tell me not to love on my pup when she was afraid. I thought surely if I only pet her and soothed her, she would learn that the world was not to be feared. That is, until I took her to my vet for her first shots. I was given this dog when she was four months old, smack in the middle of a fear period. She growled at everyone she didn't know for the first few moments, until I hugged her and pet her and showered her with treats. Sure she seemed to be growling a bit louder each time, and it seemed to take a little longer to help her warm up to men especially, but I figured that increase was due to her age. Bigger dog = Bigger noise, right? Wrong.


I had her on the exam table, and the vet-tech lady had left. The doctor arrived, and he introduced himself. My pup was cowering a bit on the table, and when the vet put out a hand for her to sniff, she growled. “Shhhhh....it's ok baby...it's ok...” I said as I pet her.


The vet retracted his hand. Folded his arms. Took a step backwards, and said “Don't you dare tell that pitbull it's ok to growl at me.”


Wow....


I began to look at things differently. That simple phrase changed the way I handled my dog. He showed me to tell her no, and only give her that jerky when she had quieted. By the end of that visit, even though she had received vaccinations and a full exam, she was wagging her tail and kissing that vet on the nose.

Totally not a pit, but that face!