Effectively Using "No"

What is this trend with not telling your dog "no"?  I understand that it comes from wanting to keep to the purest ideal of "positive" dog training, but I tell you what, I think it's bogus.

Let's talk about how to effectively use this small word.  I feel like it has been omitted from some training programs, and replaced with the much more annoying, "EH EH" sound.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but do you, as a grown, functioning, socially acceptable adult really want to be belting "EH EH" or "AH AH AH!" in front of strangers?  I know I don't.  I would much rather my dog respond to a calmly stated, "no" or even "no please" at a conversational level.

This means a few things to me:
1. My dog is paying enough attention to my voice that he is responding to that quieter tone, which means he is most likely in a better state of mind. 

2. I am not using a louder, more emotionally uncontrolled tone to gain his attention.  If I have done my homework correctly, he is also cued to at least look my direction at the sound of his name, so my calm "no," is going to work.

3. Since my use of this word, is more like how I would explain to a young child that whatever response they gave me wasn't right, this is more a marker than a correction.  Using no as a correction, sounds something like this, "NO NO! BAD! YOU IDIOT! YOU SHOULD BE AFRAID OF ME BECAUSE I'M SCREAMING AT YOU! I AM USING FEAR TO STOP YOUR MOTIONS!" or at least that's what I get out of something like the loud "EH" or "NO."

Even worse...Humans who scream their dogs names as correctives...  All.  The.  Time.  Get up and go get the dog....Stop screaming...Please....

When using 'no' as a marker, it becomes more of a tool the dog can use to 'correct himself.'  Take asking your dog to Sit.  If you have already taken the time to patiently teach the dog what Sit is, and you have seen the dog demonstrate a Sit for you in other times, you can use 'no' as a marker for not doing a Sit.  Example:  "Sit, Ubu.....(Ubu does not sit, but stares at me)...no...Sit...(this time, I help with a hand signal to remind Ubu what a Sit is)...Good...(i now reward Ubu for the sit).

 Or if you are calling your dog to you.  Say you know the dog understands what Come is, and you call her.  She begins to move towards you, but gets a little distracted on the way and begins to veer off to smell something.  If the dog is at this stage, you can say something little, like "No,..." and most dogs will have that lightbulb moment and resume their trek towards you, at which point you should immediately say "Good."  Mind you, your voice inflection matters A Lot here.  If you say "no" in a flat, lower tone, (not mean, just flat and firm) followed by a more upbeat sounding tone when you say "good," Sasha is more likely to be happily reminded of what she was doing.

I love this cue when working up to longer Stays as well.  When I've started them right, I can ask for a Sit, Stay, and if the dog stands up too soon...I say 'no' and I wait for it.  Most of the time, the pup will sit right back down (self-correction) and I can resume rewarding for good staying.  Rather than teach my pup that I will repeat myself with Sit Sit Sit, or Stay Stay Stay.

Provided you have taken time to teach your dog that a word like "good, " "yes" or "right" means they are doing the right thing, why not teach them a word that helps them learn that what they are up to might be off track?

Dogs are simple, but not stupid.  Using no as a marker, is sort of like playing that Warmer/Colder game.  "No," means change your course, "good" can mean continue, Sir. 

The second part of using 'no' effectively means you will follow up your word with touch of some kind, or body language, if necessary.  If your pup is getting into the trash, and you say "no," but do not follow it up with having the pup drop what's in his mouth, and then body blocking him away from the mess 'til he stops trying to pick up the scattered things, he most likely will not stop rummaging.  After you have stopped the foraging, and his attempted eating thereof, then you pick up the trash, call the pup away from it and decide to add Leave It to something you must work on around the trash.  Words without follow-through mean nothing.  With proper follow through, the next time you see him nosing near the can, you can simply say "Rossco, no..." and he should drop his nose from that trash can.  Then you can call him to do something more interesting.

Using 'no' as a catch-all is not the answer either.  Over-using, and yelling "no" all the time creates a dog who begins to hear you, but you become background sound that means nothing. When you use any word as a cue for some kind of action, even if that action is to cease existing action, you must attach cause and effect.   Remember, we are trying to expand our dogs learning, and therefore their cognitive abilities.

"No" is simply a marker word for "not quite what I wanted," or "try again Bub."  It also is a warning of sorts..."no" means I am about to get out of my chair, and come move you off of whatever it is you are into, so you now have a choice; are you gonna stop it, or am I getting up?

'Tis the Season.....

Every year, like clockwork, I start to get more and more personal texts and emails about dogs needing homes.  The chaos of Christmas is upon us, and yes, I know you and your family are under a lot of stress.  This stress can sometimes lead us to believe that we need to "find a new home" for the family pet.  Sometimes, it's for legitimate reasons, sometimes it's a simple training or boarding problem, but most of the time, it adds up to some poor dog being dumped at a scary shelter, where he knows No One, and has no idea what he did to end up there.
 

He is alone.









Shelters fill up this time of year folks.  And to add to this misery, Christmas puppies are coming.  The annual rush that uninformed Humans feel to "Give" someone a dog.  Please don't do this.  Buying a puppy for Christmas is not only risky, you are most likely supporting a puppy mill situation with your money. 

I won't harp that point to death (there are plenty of organizations and individuals doing that right now), but I will say this:
If you feel you absolutely MUST give someone a dog for Christmas, how about giving them a gift certificate that says you will pay the adoption fee for a pup They get to choose, from the local Animal Shelter. 

Now they have a choice.  If getting a dog is something they actually want to do, as in, they want to sign up for the 12-19 year commitment that is an animal's life, they can now go get one they actually want.  And if they don't want a dog, you can still offer to donate that adoption fee.  Orrrrr get them a ski pass, whatever. 

I work with a few people, right now, who have told me things like "I had no plans to get another dog, but when I got home, there was a puppy," or "We had planned on traveling, now that the kids are gone, but our daughter bought us this guy..."  These are people who realized they were now saddled with another responsibility, and didn't have the heart (thank goodness) to dump it, and didn't want to hurt the feelings of the Giver.

Those dogs are the lucky ones.
Most unwanted "gift puppies" are relegated to unfulfilled lives in the backyard, or tied on a chain.  Treated badly, or worse.....

There are some requests that break my heart.  I am looking for a placement situation right now, for two dogs who belong to a gentleman who has been diagnosed with terminal cancer.  He has cared for his "girls" for 7 and 8 years.  They are his family.  He is worried about what will happen to them after he departs this earth; he has less than three months to live, according to his doctors.....I am praying for an angel. 

This time of year, everyone wants that "gift puppy," no one wants two dogs together that aren't cute anymore.

Please don't buy anyone a surprise pet this year.  Think of other ways to give it, before running out and dropping a thousand bucks on a dog that was most likely birthed to a mother living in a cramped cage, out back in a shed, without heat, light or love.....

Training for People

Let me give you a word of both caution
and encouragement.

Say this out loud please,
if you want to play this game.

We are all not as fast as Milan.
We are not as patient as Stillwell.

Now I want you to exchange the
word "we" with "you" and try it
again.

You are not as fast as Milan.
You are not as patient as Stillwell.

Ok, one more time, only this time,
we say "I."

I am not as fast as Milan.
I am not as patient as Stillwell.

Did you feel differently each time
you made those statements?
Do you notice the change?

Good.

Now you know how your energy
effects your dog.

hopefully

*referring to Cesar Milan, the "dog whisperer" and Victoria Stillwell of Positively Dog Training, and "It's Me or The Dog"

The Holidays are Coming! The Holidays are Coming!

For most of us, the impending time of chaos and glittery things and family visits can be a wonderful, magical time of year.  For my frightened dog, it could be a nightmare.  It doesn't have to be.  I am putting long hours in helping him be better, so I'm taking steps to make sure he doesn't backslide this Christmas. 

If you are facing a holiday season with a nervous or anti-social animal, here's a few ideas on how to keep his state of mind in the "good zone" and not in the "oh mah gawd! They're All Here To Kill Me, I Know It!" place.

1. Do not bring your scared guy with you when you visit the relatives house, if you can help it at all.  Keep your nervous dog in familiar surroundings, and not worry yourself with what "could" happen if so-and-so did this.....

If those relatives live out of town, hire an in-home pet-sitter, or send your dog to a friend (who they are already well familiar with) you trust for the time you are away.

2. If you have visitors to your own home, hide your doorbell.  Seriously.  Remember that conversation we had about Doorbell Insanity?  Mine's getting better, but repeated intrusions from those pesky invaders might set me back a bit at this stage, so I'll be hiding the button under some decorations.  If the weather allows, open the inner door, so your visitors can be seen arriving through the screen or glass door.  This gives you time to do whatever you need to, in order to keep your dogs calm.

3. Speaking of keeping your dogs calm, you may be better off sequestering them in another room for the duration of the party.  Give them something to do, such as a yummy bone or a stuffed and frozen Kong toy (in separate rooms, or kennels for safety if your dogs have ANY propensity for playing the "mine!" game), and put some kind of background noise on.  The television or a radio playing can help mask some of the noises from the rest of the house, and coupled with that yummy bone, they may just think that's a better place to be anyway.

Not only does this calm separation benefit your canine's mind, it will also assuage any fears your guests might have of your dogs.  Sure, your dogs are members of your family, and you love them, but not everyone feels that way.  And unless your dogs have perfect manners, as in, they do not invade the personal space of strangers at all, and can keep their cool, then perhaps you can think of your guests comfort, and remove the dogs.

4. Should you feel you want your dog to be a part of the party, and are at all concerned about his reactions to said environment, leash him.

Keeping him tethered to your side can be a great way to enforce obedience and polite manners, if you are teaching them.....You are teaching them, aren't you? 

This is a fantastic way to introduce him to multiple, different people, and still enforce the Sit politely for petting scenario.  Be sure to speak out on his behalf to your guests too!  Tell them he is learning not to jump, paw, accost, stuff his muzzle into their crotch, whatever, but explain your intentions before you allow your guests to do the ol' "ooooh he's sooooo cuuuuuute!!!!" all over him.

5. There is food everywhere, so Watch Your Dog.  I know, I know, every dog writer brings this up every year, but the increase that veterinarians see in worried owners saying things like "He ate a pound and a half of chocolate covered espresso beans!!!" or "She stole the turkey carcass!" or "Uncle Joe gave him too many beers!" is frightening. 

Should your dog be the thieving kind, a leash is a must!  Or baby-gates to keep them out of the food prep and serving areas.  Little kids dole out all kinds of forbidden treats, simply because they are shorter and more willing to share.  Candy canes hung too low on the tree are fair game, in the dogs opinion, so do your part to keep your dog safe from these things.

6. Alright, so you have a dog who can't handle more than one or two visitors at a time....But the family is visiting....Perhaps sending him to stay somewhere wouldn't be the worst idea in the world.  So long as he is comfortable, and safe with whomever you send him to, remember, his mind is as much your responsibility as is the rest of him.  Do what you feel would be best for him.

Obviously avoiding the scenario altogether won't help him get any better, but if you are not prepared to work with the dog, or talk to your guests about the dog, then find him a place to be.

7. Walk the Dog!  :)

Again I bring up the importance of exercise on the nervous dog's mind.  This goes for not-so-nervous dogs too.  If you're meeting the physical requirements your dog has, his mind has a better chance of processing things in a more "normal" and healthy fashion.  This increases your chances for a calm dog, or one that may surprise you with the strides they are making.

So in the midst of the cooking, baking, visitors, decorating, and other chaos, take some time out and go for a walk.  It will help you calm yourself, and it will breathe new life into what seemed like an overwhelmingly frustrating affair.

But I live where it is just too cold to go for a long walk.
That's ok, you can still find ways to exercise your pup.  Practice some obedience or tricks for about 20 minutes at a time.  If you have a long hallway, you can toss toys or a soft ball.  Play tug o'war.  Take your dog into a private room and play "Find It."  Dig out your copy of "101 Dog Tricks" by Kyra Sundance, and choose a new thing to begin learning.

My brother had an inventive method of exercising his large dog when it was cold:  He would tell the dog to go upstairs.  When the dog did so, he asked for a Sit at the top.  Then he'd call the dog back down the stairs, and ask him to get into the Heel position and Sit again. This went on at least 10 minutes.  You try that and tell me how tired you are at the end....Of course, he spent time beforehand teaching this nonsense to his dog, but you get the idea.

8. Take the time to show your dog it's not as scary as they thought.  I have a dog who is mentally imbalanced.  He doesn't handle changes too well.  If you move a piece of furniture, he won't enter that room, unless leashed and led and patiently allowed to sniff out the change.  This goes for decorating, and the tree and all that stuff.  None of it is up yet, as it isn't quite Thanksgiving yet, but I am preparing for the extra time it will take for him to be acclimated to these changes.  You should have seen his reaction to a snowman last year!!!  Sadly hilarious!

Being patient is the greatest gift I can give him this time of year, and any time of year.  Taking the time your own dog needs to work through, or work around whatever nerves or reactions they may have during this craziness, will ultimately be a Win for you.  As always, if your dog's nervous nature causes her to lash out, work with a professional and do your best to Not put her into those situations.  Be safe.

Equal Rights for All?

Every time I open my inter-webs connection lately, someone is crying for an "end to inequality."  I see newscasters talking about discrimination and racism, and how we all must band together to "fight" these horrible things that shouldn't exist in 2014.....

I agree.  Completely.
But if you ask those same people how they feel about "pitbull" type dogs, too many of them are too quick to condemn.

These same, so-called educated and intelligent Humans will spout nonsense about how they will "turn" or how they are "inherently vicious," but most of them have never known one.  Most of them can't even identify what a "pitbull" is, but they hate them all the same.

That's racism.

That is discrimination.

That is taking someone else's word that something is "evil" and "dangerous."

There are so many incidents of college "frat-house" rapes.  These happen every day.  Do I get to go around saying that All College Boys Are Rapists?

For those of us old enough to remember the fights for Civil Rights, can you recall the blatent hatred of anyone with a different color skin?

Does anyone remember the Japanese camps in Colorado?  *Look it up*

What about how women are treated and paid in today's workforce?  We're willing to fight for our own right to equal and fair treatment, but we allow the media to tell us to live in fear of a dog.

How about those NFL players.....Should I automatically assume that only the "black" ones fight dogs behind everyone's back, and the "white" ones rape women?  Of course not; that Person responsible chose to do those things.  And what a fine example we set for our kids:  Do those heinous acts, and if you have enough money to pay a good lawyer, and you are famous enough, you will not only STILL keep your job, but you will make MORE money in endorsements than you ever dreamed of!

Judging the acts of a few, and saying it is the way of the many is unfair.  The unfortunate things that happen to these dogs is disgusting.  It is a People Problem.  It is irresponsibility gone to fruit, and if we do not address the Humans, the "dog problem" will never go away.......no matter what sort of ineffective "ban" is put into effect.

An African-American is only a person.
A woman is still a Human Being.
A pitbull is just a dog. 

Tools: The BackPack

How many times have you seen an over-enthusiastic dog with a pack on?
That's right, not very often.  That's because he is focusing his mind on something other than jumping around and acting the fool.  Not to mention, it can be a great way to add intensity and more work to a dog's walk:  It wears him out faster.

Now, not all dogs are cut out for wearing a pack and carrying their belongings around.  Some breeds, such as the long-backed Dachshund or the light of bone Italian Greyhound, may wind up with injuries from attempting such a thing.  But some, like the Labrador, or the Bernese Mtn. Dog, and your uber-strong bully breeds, are just made for this activity.

But, like any Tool, you get what you pay for. 
Some packs are made out of materials that would wear out too quickly, or do not fit correctly.  So let's look at some of the finer points to choosing a good pack for your pet.

The first step in getting some gear for your guy is to measure him.

It is important to measure these three points in order to pick the correct size for your dog.  A pack that is too large, or slides around while walking, will not be comfortable. 

The idea is to make this a fun activity; something you both can enjoy.  If you've ever tried to go for a walk in shoes that are too big for you, you can guess how uncomfortable an ill-fitting strap or three would be. Chaffing and sores are not fun.

The fourth place to measure is the chest of your dog.  Some packs that seem right around the girth (make sure you are not measuring behind the ribs; rather just behind the forelegs) may not fit across the chest.  Finding a chest strap that properly fits a thick-bodied dog, can be challenging. 

Look for a pack that offers a lot of adjustability, or search for one that comes in "custom sizes," if you are running into this issue.

Not the proper fit at all.  Notice the pack is waaaay far back, and the chest strap digs into the dog, due to it not having a "y" connection.  While this pack has a handle, it would be very uncomfortable for the dog.

The second thing to take into the 'fitting' account, is how big the saddle bags are.  Ideally, the bags should not extend past the ribcage on the dog (long ways), and should not hang more than an inch below the elbow.  Should this be the case, it will restrict the dogs' freedom to move, and/or the weight can cause spinal issues.

Speaking of weight, please do not overload your pup.  Start with an empty pack.  Let the dog get comfortable wearing this contraption, well before you go loading it up with weight.  Dogs are much stronger pullers, than they are capable of carrying on their backs.  No more than 15-20% of their total body weight should ever be loaded into the packs saddlebags.

Keeping the weight evenly distributed is also important.  If you have an imbalanced pack, the pack will be pulled to one side.

Look for a backpack that offers a "Y" shaped chest piece. This helps with fit, and also keeps the pack more centered on the dog's body.  Again, you get what you pay for here. 

Other features of a good pack will most likely include the option to remove the saddlebags, leaving the harness piece on the dog.  Also, a strong handle on the harness piece.  This makes it easier for you to lift your dog, should he get himself in a bind.
A good pack will have padding.  This padding should be on the straps as well as the harness part of the pack.  The more cheaply made products will not only fit weird, but also will not be padded and your pup will not appreciate carrying things in that. 

Think of the money you invest in good hiking and camping equipment for yourself.  Why would you be satisfied with anything less for your best friend?

A Night in a Puppy Pen

I've been known to want to understand my dogs to such a degree, that I will lay on the floor and watch the world from their perspective for hours.  It's an interesting thing to experience how the world may look to a dog who is tiny, or young...Things you may not think are frightening, may indeed be HUGE monsters at first.  I also stress that we are not dogs, but for the purpose of this posting, I wound up in a situation that put me front and center inside a Tool that every Human owning a young dog should have:  A Puppy Pen.

 On a visit to a friend, we erected the puppy pen around my sleeping area.  There are rambunctious kids and a rather large, wonderful dog roaming the house.  In order to allow me to sleep in and not be "dog-piled" at dawn, we set up the pen.  What I found was a sense of peace.

 My area was at first a curiosity, (what is it about kids and air mattresses?!) but quickly, both canine and human pups grew bored of sniffing the edges, and found more interesting ventures.  My things were not disturbed, or slobbered on, and I found that even the adults left me be when I crossed the fence-line into my space.

I slept wonderfully in this little confinement.  And it made me think of how a young dog might feel after a tiring day of playing and chasing and otherwise being a pest.  To be suddenly put into his pen, with his comfortable bed, some toys, maybe a chew and something to drink.  It would seem a welcome relief (provided you are taking the time to teach your dog to be alright without your presence always hanging over it).  A peaceful place to crash, without the kids bothering him.

From the perspective of Dog Guardian, it is also a wonderful thing to be able to give a young dog (or a newly adopted one) some space to stretch her legs and chew in peace, without worry about what they are doing.  It keeps a dog out of her kennel, but safe from the numerous things that a dog can find to get in trouble with. 

So long as you are "puppy proofing" the area, a puppy pen or a baby-gate across a doorway, can set you up for peace.

A basic puppy proofing includes cleaning the floor.  Anything that CAN fit in a pups mouth, WILL wind up in a pups mouth.  Dust bunnies do not provide the proper levels of fiber to qualify as part of a balanced canine diet.

Preferably, your puppy pen should not be set on carpeted surfaces.  This is too easy for the pup to ruin, and harder to clean.  If you must set it on carpeted areas, line the bottom with a painters drop cloth (the plastic backed/canvas front kind) and make sure you have secured it so it cannot become a toy.

Apply bitter apple or other chewing deterrent to any and all exposed furniture legs, decorative wood, window sills, etc.

Provide appropriate things for the pup to chew on.  I am not talking about a frozen raw bone, we mean something more like a nylabone with a little peanut butter smeared on it, or a stuffed, frozen Kong toy.  Things that are "crate-safe" are ok to be in the pen unsupervised.  Toys with rope, or that can be torn to bits, are not safe.  Your dog could ingest them, and cost you a pretty penny to have removed.

A nice place to rest.  Some pups and dogs cannot handle being left alone with a cushy dog bed.  Make sure your dog is not a "destroyer" before you place items like that in there.  A non-stuffed blanket folded to make it thicker, or a kuranda bed might be a good plan for a while.

A water bowl that cannot be tipped over, fallen into, or otherwise cause problems for your dog.  Nobody likes to sleep wet.

Check on your pup often.  Even in the "safest" of set-ups, dogs are masters at getting themselves into a jam.  Make sure you aren't just sticking the dog in the pen and forgetting about them.  A puppy pen can provide the haven both you and your dog are seeking, but as with any Tool in the dog owners garage, use it wisely.