A Lot for a Little: Using Addiction to Cure Your Training Struggles

Congratulations!  You and your pup have graduated to the next level of training.  You took them to a basic puppy kindergarten level class, where they learned their first lessons in social play.  You taught them how to Sit, Down, Come (most of the time), Leave It, the beginnings of a good Stay and hopefully, a few more choice things.  Now it is time to move on.

It is time to learn the true Art of Distraction.

 ...Literally, stop giving your dog any time to think about anything else but the reward they want from you.  Up until now, you have gone slowly.  Too slowly.  It is time to show your dog that You are the distraction to pay attention to.  If you begin to think of yourself as The Distraction, instead of the person trying to keep the dogs attention away from outside distractions, you may find yourself being more creative in your approach. 

Most basic classes are geared towards teaching the Human to communicate with their puppies.  I know mine is.  The speed at which the class moves, is for your benefit; not the dogs.  The dogs can move and learn a whole lot faster than my kindergarten classes go.  This is because if we were moving at the speed of Dog, no one would enjoy my class but me.

At this point in your puppy's development in training (we'll call this level 1 1/2), he should be capable of doing a lot for very little.  Most of you have made the mistake of removing the reward too soon, and are expecting your dog to work for free well before he is ready.  If this has happened, your dog is no longer focused on you, and you have become ineffective background sound attached to his leash.  You may be wondering why you took a class in the first place, as the dog clearly hasn't learned anything.

Or the opposite has occurred, and you are still giving the dog too many rewards for every little thing she does that is correct.  And you now have a dog who refuses to listen, unless you are standing right in front of her, stuffing treats down her gullet....Until something more interesting comes along, and she decides THAT is more fun.


In both cases, you now have a dog who doesn't listen "unless they choose to."  So how do you fix this?  How do you become The Distraction?

First, make sure that the reward you are working with makes your dog bananas.  Seriously.  If you are using a reward that holds a higher value for your dog, he will work harder to get it, which ultimately means you will need to dole out less of them, and he will give you more focused attention between rewards.

Positive Reinforcement:  The Good Addiction, as it were.  You get the animal hooked on treats, or a favorite game, or toy, and then withhold the One thing the animal now "needs."  'Needs' being in quotation, as I am not referring to vital and basic physical needs, such as water, shelter, nutrition, etc.  I wouldn't infringe on a creature's Rights, and neither should you.  Find the thing that your dog wants more than anything, and you dole it out as You choose to...So long as the dog stays hooked.  Now you have an Addict, and you can use this to create behaviors that You want, or continue to build upon the basic ones you learned in that kindergarten environment.

Couple this addiction with some kind of enforcer, or corrective, when the dog chooses to ignore the given cue.  I am a big fan of Corrective Circles:  I ask for a Sit when the dog is stopped next to my side, for instance.  The dog knows darn well what Sit means (we've spent the past 3 weeks practicing it, yes?) and stares at me like she's never heard the word before.  Rather then fall in to the natural Human tendency to be louder, or repeat myself, (or my least favorite move---The Human who immediately goes for their treat bag when the dog ignores them)  I will simply say "no" and take her in a tight, small circle, using my body and the leash to bring her with me.  When we arrive and the place we started, I will again say "Sit."  When she does the Sit, she will now receive several bits of the Thing That Makes Her Crazy....Her ultimate reward.

 I will then repeat the exercise.  Coming to a stop and asking for that Sit next to me.  She will most likely do this eagerly in anticipation of The Thing That Makes Her Crazy.  But rather then allow her the predicted result, I will simply drop my hand with The Thing That Makes Her Crazy, in front of her nose (yes, just like we did when she was 10 wks old), and immediately step forward, giving her whatever cue I am using for the "move with me" motion.  Only a step in to this, I will stop and ask for another Sit at my side.

Provided I am using the right reward, she will most likely park it quick. Her initial frustration at not receiving The Thing That Makes Her Crazy is now working for me, instead of against.  At this point in the game, that Thing That Makes Her Crazy in my hand is now my magic wand, and I can most likely ask for several rounds of stepping and sitting, before I give her even a teensy taste of whatever it is she wants.  I can move her closer to dogs.  I can ask for so much more focus in distracting environments, simply because I am moving at the speed of dog now.

This is not a skill that only Professional Dog Teachers can possess.  You can do this.



The quicker, and more fluidly you can learn to transition from one exercise to the next, the better your dogs focus will become.  Start them off with a 'hit' of The Thing That Makes Them Crazy, then make it completely unpredictable as to when that Thing will be provided again, and they most likely will work harder to get it.  They are no longer at the baby stage of needing to move slowly, or take as many breaks in between.

When you are still moving at the speed of "...Sit.....Good....Treat...Come...Sit" your dog may be doing this:

"Sit.(ok, i planted my butt, and nothing happened fast enough...ooh...did you see that?!....What's that dog doing over there?...did he just get a better treat than me?...) Good..(ok cool, but HEY! What's happening over there?) Treat (Awesome! When I look over there, my person gives me a treat! I should look over there more often!)..."

Timing is everything.  Learning to keep your dog moving, and working, is tough.  I get that.  But if you don't learn to use that magic wand to its potential, you may never wean your pup off the treats to a satisfactory degree.  I still carry rewards in my pocket when I walk my dogs.  Not necessarily because they need it anymore, but because I believe in paying my dogs for a job well done.

If suddenly we come upon a particularly tough distraction, one which may result in my dogs being too involved with other dogs, or mobbed by kids, I will step to the side and work my dogs.  This helps me in two ways.

One:  The approaching distraction may see that the dogs are actively engaged in some kind of training exercise, and stay out of our space.

Two:  It is an excellent opportunity for my dogs to practice the stuff they know. I get to reinforce all the training I have built, to keep their skills sharp and functioning.

And if I am using The Thing That Makes Them Crazy.....They will be more than satisfied with the smallest of tastes for the largest of jobs.

Sausage Failing you? Find another way.

Yes, there is such a thing as a dog who most likely shouldn't be allowed to be too close to other dogs, or people for that matter. 

This does not mean that this dog should be relegated to a life of seeing the inside of his backyard fence, or snarling at things through the windows. 

This does not mean that this dog is incapable of working.  It does not mean he is incapable of changing.....to some degree.  Sometimes, this degree is so far away from what you started with, that you cannot believe the dog you now have.  Sometimes, it is a small degree of change, but the dog is happier and you are less frustrated, and on the way to a better life..... 


Nor does it mean, in my opinion, that he is "unfixable."  You may find yourself with what I like to call a "Lifetime Management Issue," but this 'issue' can be worked with.  Telling a person that their dog is hopeless, and therefore, you may as well do nothing and allow this animal to spend the rest of his life in the same, sorry, upset, stressed-out state of mind, while you go about ignoring his pain does not sit well with me.  Having one 'trainer' tell you the dog is hopeless, and taking their word for it, without the agreeing opinion of your vet, and at least one other trainer (with different methodology), is damning your dog to a lifetime without quality. 

So your dog has been diagnosed as a cat-killer, or has landed several other dogs in the hospital....This doesn't mean he's done for.  This means you have a choice.

You have a choice to work with what you have, and do some heavy groundwork to help change his emotional response to the stimulus that sends him into overdrive.  Your life will change.  Your choices about how you walk him, where you walk him, and when you walk him will change.  You will become his bodyguard.  You will become more outspoken than you ever thought possible.  You will accept that he may never be Safe, but with you around, he is no longer Dangerous.  Does that make sense?

The other side of that coin, is to humanely euthanize such an animal.  In my career, I have only suggested this to three people (cat-killing is not an offense worth euthanizing for, by the way).  And with this recommendation, came the suggestion to also have the animal examined thoroughly by a veterinarian, and at least two other aggression specialists.  When I "throw out" such a heavy sentence, it usually comes with an alternative.
 
"Your choice is to commit to never having children while you have this dog, as she will be a Lifetime Management Issue, or to euthanize."

"Your choice is to realize he will be functional for You, or to euthanize if you ever decide you cannot handle him and the lifestyle he requires anymore."

"If by 'send him to a farm' you mean euthanize, then yes.  That is a viable option for him at this point, unless you are willing to fully commit to his treatment and management....."

In all three cases, the choice to commit to this and realize that it WILL be a ton of work, is there.  Euthanasia is not the Only option.....But you either commit to the dog you have, or do him that favor.  You cannot pass this level of problem off to someone else.  That is not fair.  You have no idea what someone else will do to him for his infractions.

And leaving him at home day in and day out, is not ok. 

"oh but he's happy!  He's getting a little fat, but he's so happy."  No.  He isn't.  He's bored out of his mind.  He is like a crazy person in an asylum.  He is getting his drugs and cookies, but he's not in therapy.  Without therapy and counseling, we may never know if he can be helped, or if truly, genetically, he is so flawed that he is a Lifetime Management Issue....and even then, let's get him out for a walk of some kind! 

Shall we?.....

Pitbull Puppies make me sick

Not at all kidding.  I am a member of a few facebook forums that are supposed to be a community of responsible, pitbull loving/accepting folks, and frankly, the number of "Lookit what I got!!" posts with a photo of a stupid-cute pit puppy churn my guts.

 I hope, in genuine sincerity, that you acquired that pup from a rescue.  I hope you didn't pay money for that to some dude off of Craigslist....or worse....."Yay! My Easter Present!!!"  Are you kidding me....?  Really?  Someone bought you a live pitbull puppy for Easter?  Not only does this fire me up on the do not give animals as presents front, it makes me worried that You might be a responsible Human, but the person who bought you that cute dog, had no idea what they were doing, and gave a back-yard breeder money to continue the practice.  And do you truly have time to raise and train that new present?! 

I know that there are TONS of puppies that cycle through the rescues, but I get so sad when I think about the senior dogs, and older dogs being passed over because someone opted for the cuteness instead.  I also understand that in some situations, getting a young dog is actually the better option.  You may actually have a good reason for wanting to raise your own; put in what you want; not have to deal with or fix any rescue baggage...I get that.  I have had moments where I too have considered a pup the next go'round.  But then I think of the numbers.

 4,800 out of 7,000.

That is the number of pitbull type dogs euthanized in my state (Colorado) 2013.  That is a lot of dead dogs that probably didn't have to be dead.   

I also know I am most likely being too cynical about this.....but I fear I may be absolutely right.  Most of these posts do not divulge where or whom the pup was "gotten" from.  They somehow "got" another puppy to go with the other three full-grown pits they already own.  "Well, my dogs wouldn't like a grown dog, so we got a puppy."  ok, fine...where did you get that puppy?

When "It's Ok" is Not.

As a species, we humans are many things. One of the biggest, is that we are a nurturing sort. We see a baby animal and we fall to open-mouthed “awwww!!!” and can't help but want to cuddle it close. We are triggered by their adorable faces and sweet breath; their tiny awkward walks, or their fur, or their tails or paws or.....But this kind of reaction can be a two-edged sword. When we take in these tiny little babies, dogs specifically, we are assuming the role of Parent and Teacher. Letting our natural human instincts tell us how to raise these animals, can sometimes backfire on us. Especially with Fear.


Fear can ruin a great puppy really fast, if not handled appropriately. It is a natural and necessary emotion felt by every living thing. It is designed to keep us alive. To tell us whether the situation calls for Fight or Flight, but to us Humans, it is a little different. We are a reasoning species, so when we are faced with something fearful, our reasoning brains can look at it objectively (provided the fear is not so great that we fall into a panic attack, or have such severe anxiety that we cannot function) and figure out if this Fear is something that actually can harm us, or if we can “work through it.” For a dog, Fear is quite different. When a dog becomes fearful, Nature tells her to either Fight it, Run from it, or Roll Over and Hope It Doesn't Eat You....Which can sometimes lead to Defending Oneself, or Fighting It.


Your growing puppy will experience two, and sometimes three, Fear Phases as she grows. Somewhere between 3 and 11 weeks of age (give or take, depending on the pup) your puppy is cruising through her first Fear phase. A pup's eyes and ears begin to open around 13 days old. Her body becomes much more aware of things at this point, and if the handling of this pup is rough, scary, very isolated or painful, this can set her up for being a fearful pup as she moves into her other phases of growth. Some puppies are genetically prone to shyness, which can lead to a more fearful adult dog if not handled kindly. This stage of your puppy's life is very important for good handling and socialization to noises, humans, short periods of being alone (very short!!!! No more than a few minutes at a time. They NEED their littermates and their Momma), variances in temperature, and safe exposure to other pets. Exposing your puppy to new dogs, is not recommended if they have not had at least two rounds of vaccinations however. From a training perspective, in order to get a balanced dog, one would want to begin exposure as soon as possible. From a medical viewpoint, this is not safe. Talk with your Veterinarian and see if they can help you come up with safer ways to expose your little one, so you can take advantage of this imprinting window.

What if you have no idea what happened around your pup at that early development stage? No worries! You still have plenty of time to help your shy puppy gain confidence. Even a perfectly handled, bold puppy will experience these psychological growth periods, and can experience fears. The second phase usually hits between 4 and 6 months of age. This is where you and all your great training seems to have become irrelevant to your puppy, as they are also right in the middle of a stage that draws them out of the infantile behavior of following you everywhere. They are becoming more settled in their personalities, and just like any teenage human, they want more space to explore. During this time, you may notice your pup is eager to learn new things, but just as quickly, she seems to ignore them if the situation tells her that something more interesting than You is happening. If your puppy all of a sudden acts frightened of something, and you really cannot put a finger on “why,” now is the perfect time to enroll in a well-respected obedience class. Something positive is best, as the entire goal should be to change the puppy's mind about different situations.


The third phase is a bit of a mystery. Some dogs seem to hit it hard, while others don't experience it at all. Or they have, but in such subtle ways we missed it. Those are the pups who usually have a well-grounded background, and are now capable of being initially scared of something, but are using their wits and curiosity to explore it, and determine if it's worth staying scared of or not. This last Fear period usually presents itself between 6-12 months. This third phase may also truly be your pup's second phase, just late in arriving. A dog that hits this phase and suddenly seems to refuse to 'do' any of the fun things she used to enjoy, such as visiting with other dogs, or going for walks, or acting fearful of certain people, may get “stuck” here if not given a good balance of proper correction and reward.


Some dogs come into the world afraid. Genetically, they are prone and weren't given the positive conditioning necessary to change how they see things. You did everything right. You socialized this pup gently. You softly exposed her to new things and people. You are using positive methods, and you still have a pup who cowers and shakes, or yelps and tries to escape when a new situation arises. Or you have adopted an adult dog with these issues. In either case, there is hope. It is never too late to help an older dog, or completely change a pup.


Here is why “ok” is not: In our latest group class, we have a rather boisterous and comfortable group, with the exception of a 4.5 month old German Shepherd. He is terrified of the other puppies. His fear is such that he screams and tries to run away if they get too close to him. His parents (owners) confusion is deepened because this pup lives with two other big dogs at home, and is comfortable with them. The neighbor dogs scare him to pieces too; he flees the fence-line screaming whenever they are present. They initially did what we all want to do as Humans: Petted him and softly talked to him, and told him “It's ok. Calm Down. You're fine. Shhhhh....It's ok” as they pulled him closer to their bodies. The scared pup is now restrained, and he is now between his Pack and the Scary Dogs. Now his protective instinct shows. He changes his tone from “save me” to “STAY AWAY” and begins to add growls and real barks to his noises. This is not Ok at all.

So what do you do? As a human, it is our natural instinct to cuddle and soothe this puppy. If we are dealing with a frightened child, hugging him close and telling him he is ok may actually help calm him down (assuming the child is old enough to understand words). For a dog, this is not the case. When our pups hear us telling them it is 'ok' in what we hear as soothing, they may actually be construing as us saying “I know...shhhh...I'm scared too...it's ok...what you're doing is right....we'll get through this together....” Our worry for the dog is what he feels in that moment, and this emotion can make him feel as though he is right for being afraid in that situation. Some trainers may tell you to simply ignore this behavior, and wait for the pup to calm down, and then give them a reward. I disagree with this approach when the pup has moved into that protective stance.


When the pup is first exhibiting the fear, yes, you can ignore it and wait for the better, less frantic behaviors to present themselves, and then offer a reward. This is the stage of screaming and trying to run away. Allow the pup to find the end of the leash (and please make sure the dog is in a well-fit collar or body-harness to prevent escape) and do whatever freaking out he is going to do. Should he not begin to calm in 10-15 seconds, move a ways farther away from the scary thing to wait it out. As soon as the pup calms, wait a few seconds (2-4) and offer a yummy reward. If the pup is into the food at that point, see if you can use it to lure him a bit closer to the scary thing. Each step earns a reward. Should the pup recoil, you have now found the distance he is comfortable with, and can begin working there to build more confidence.

If the pup has moved into growling or defensively threatening the “scary” thing, telling him it is 'ok' is the exact opposite of what you want. Instead, disrupt his behavior. The simple way is to immediately step in front of him, close to his body space so you are essentially invading the behavior. Issue a stern, but not loud, “No,” or “quiet” cue. Do not repeat yourself, “no..no..no..no” this does nothing to help: It only gives your dog the impression that you are barking at him. This will exacerbate his frustration and he may become more upset. Often, your invasion of body space is enough to break the pup's focus, and he will be quiet. The moment he is no longer growling or barking, (you may have to Body Block him backwards a few feet before this happens) step to his side again, so he can clearly see the thing that frightened him, and if he looks that way for 1-2 seconds without the noise, immediately tell him “Good” and give him a super tasty reward.

It is important to remember to step away so he has a clear view of the scary things before feeding him, or the dog may begin to think that you are rewarding him for his initial defensive noise and reaction. A dog only has about 1.5 seconds of process time to connect action to reward. By rewarding him when he is quietly looking at the scary thing, and “correcting” him by taking that ability away, he will begin to relax. If he isn't relaxing, you are simply too close to the scary thing for him to cognitively function in a non-reactive fashion.


There are different techniques that will work for each individual dog, so please do not take this suggestion as gospel, simply one method that worked for this particular pup.


Over the course of the class (approximately an hour) he relaxed using this technique to a degree that allowed him to be only five feet away from the rest of the group. Respecting his fear by not forcing him to be too close, and not allowing the other pups to reach him yet, is also a vital component of helping him gain confidence. Had his people continued to assure him that this was “ok,” he would not have begun to see when acting like that really is not ok. Dogs learn by what gets them paid, ie what gets the treats, or what works for them. At one point, this pup was so worked up he had no interest in the morsels of meat being offered; he was so far into his fear that his number one sense was not working. His barking and posturing was working! The other pups were being kept far away by their owners, but he was learning his bravado was working...He didn't want the dogs near him, and they weren't. By moving him a bit away, and telling him what was inappropriate, he learned to relax.


I didn't used to feel this way about the word “ok.” When I was younger, I thought dog 'experts' were stupid to tell me not to love on my pup when she was afraid. I thought surely if I only pet her and soothed her, she would learn that the world was not to be feared. That is, until I took her to my vet for her first shots. I was given this dog when she was four months old, smack in the middle of a fear period. She growled at everyone she didn't know for the first few moments, until I hugged her and pet her and showered her with treats. Sure she seemed to be growling a bit louder each time, and it seemed to take a little longer to help her warm up to men especially, but I figured that increase was due to her age. Bigger dog = Bigger noise, right? Wrong.


I had her on the exam table, and the vet-tech lady had left. The doctor arrived, and he introduced himself. My pup was cowering a bit on the table, and when the vet put out a hand for her to sniff, she growled. “Shhhhh....it's ok baby...it's ok...” I said as I pet her.


The vet retracted his hand. Folded his arms. Took a step backwards, and said “Don't you dare tell that pitbull it's ok to growl at me.”


Wow....


I began to look at things differently. That simple phrase changed the way I handled my dog. He showed me to tell her no, and only give her that jerky when she had quieted. By the end of that visit, even though she had received vaccinations and a full exam, she was wagging her tail and kissing that vet on the nose.

Totally not a pit, but that face!

Weight Pull

Would you believe a 16 pound dog could pull a wheeled cart, and weights, that totaled over 2,000 pounds?
No, that's not a type-o. That is a Weight Pull Competition Dog. And this, may just be the sport you are searching for.


Weight Pull is literally the pulling of weight, either on a cart with wheels, or a sled with runners. The basic rundown, is that the dog must pull this weight a distance of 16 ft, without help. The dogs are organized by their weight class, and they have 1 minute in which to complete the pull. Sounds pretty simple right? Wellllll....Maybe not quite.

Back before cars, trucks and other heavy machines, dogs and horses did this work. Now, you might immediately think of Huskies and Malamutes when you think of dogs who pull, and you'd be right. Did you know the Bouvier Des Flandres was used to pull carts of milk for delivery? Or that the Newfoundland was also known as a freight dog?

And well before that, Native Americans and other peoples were using dogs to pull their things from place to place whenever the camp moved. The sport of Weight Pull is designed to highlight the Freighting heritage of our canine companions.
Since it's inception in 1984, the International Weight Pull Association (IWPA) has been allowing all kinds of dogs to participate. That 16 pounder I mentioned at the beginning of this article? A Jack Russell Terrier! Don't believe me, look it up ...amazing stuff.


As with any sport, there has to be some proper equipment and training involved to prevent injury to both yourself, and your dog. After all, he's the athlete. You wouldn't expect yourself to walk into a gym after months of sitting on the couch and suddenly bench press 350 lbs. Some conditioning is necessary. A visit to your vet to make sure your dog is fit to begin training for this is a must, as well as doing a ton of research. Check out some books on the subject, research some of the pull clubs in your area, and attend some events. Talk with the people involved in the events and meet the owners competing. You'll get a feel for who is consciously caring for their athletes, and who is probably more concerned about the Win, than their dogs. I suggest learning from someone who cares enough to drop out if they had to, in order to keep their dogs healthy.


With licensed veterinary clearance, and an investment in a custom fit harness, now is the time to work out a suitable training plan. And no, ground-swimming and yanking you down the street does not count. It may make you a good candidate to try Weight Pull, but a strong player with no rules cannot make the team. If you've decided you do want to try this, investing in a proper fitting freight-harness is an absolute must. Do not settle for 'cheap' or 'bargain' here. This piece of equipment is designed, and usually custom fit, to each individual dog to minimize the risk of injury. If you enroll in an IWPA competition, be prepared for the judges and affiliates to inspect you, your dog and what he's wearing prior to admittance in the pull. They do this to ensure safety. Can you believe the IWPA has never had an injury at a pull in all those years? That's right, since 1984 they haven't. And it's because of the rules.

 Once you've gotten the harness, start taking your dog for walks wearing it with nothing attached to it (keep your dog leashed for safety). You want this to be a comfortable transition, not something weird and scary. If you watch some of those pull videos (and please do look up the ones from official IWPA links) it is plain to see how much fun those dogs are having! Teaching your dog to be 'under control' is a must, as this is one of the stipulations for joining the IWPA pulls. Your dog cannot be just insane, he's got to have focus, drive, and he's gotta want to do this. Inhumane forcing or treatment to “make” him pull will not be tolerated.


There is some controversy as to the humane nature of this sport altogether. Some that are against it maintain that it is cruel or harmful to 'make' the dogs pull this weight. This point of view is understandable.

After all, a dog is all heart. Most of them don't know when their bodies can't take it anymore, and will continue to try and pull past what is safe for them. As a responsible person, it is your job to look out for the well-being of your dog at all times. Knowing what your dog is capable of within their safe limits, and knowing when to call it quits, before the judge has to, is the mark of a well-versed and educated handler. At some of the non-IWPA sanctioned events, there have been instances of pulled or torn tendons in knees, elbows, and other joints. Shoulder strain, and spinal injuries, due to poorly fit harnesses and heavy weights can happen too. And there are risks to the toenails, paw-pads, and bones in the feet and legs. There are physical risks you take involving your dog in any sport, but with Weight Pull, you are asking your dog to do something very physically demanding, so don't just jump in: Get Educated.


Being irresponsible in “conditioning” the dog is where one could say this is a 'cruel' thing to do. Hanging weights off your dog, or making them drag heavy objects around all the time is NOT the way to build a sound athlete. Strapping weights to your dog, just to see How Much He Can Handle is wrong. You can, and will hurt your dog. There are those competitive Humans who just can't say 'enough.' These people have caused severe injuries to the dogs they claim to love, because they just don't know when to throw in the towel. As mentioned, a dog is all heart.....Allowing them to continue just because you want a win; piling on more weight than you have trained for.....Not ok.


The atmosphere of the handlers and what they are allowed to say or do to their dogs, is closely monitored to ensure fun and safety. If at any time the IWPA judges deem your handling rough, or you are screaming at your dog in a way that seems to use intimidation, rather than encouragement, and if it appears that your dog can't or doesn't want to try, they will send you away. It's that simple. This is a sport that celebrates the working dog. And it is a fantastic workout and energy outlet for some of the more 'hyper', or strong breeds out there. Not to mention the bonding and behavioral bonuses you get from giving your dog a healthy place to put some of his pent up energy. Rottweilers, Huskies, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Jack Russell Terriers, Standard Poodles, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, you'll see them all, and many more at these events.

Training these athletes takes time, and attention to detail. Diet and proper exercise is only part of exposing your dogs full potential. Your Weight Pull dog must also enjoy crowds, and be balanced in their personality, so this can remain a safe event. No dog aggressive dogs, or dogs who don't like people will be allowed to compete. Start your training by walking a mile a day. Talk to professionals in the canine training industry. Interview several if you want help teaching your dog to be a world-class pull dog. Too much too fast can cause serious and sometimes irreversible injury or damage to your pulling pal, so be sure you have done thorough research. Make sure the mentors you have chosen to assist you are on the up-and-up as well. If someone boasts that they have trained “100's of dogs” for this, ask them for references. And, as always, make sure that whatever training that has been presented as the plan, gets run by your vet to make certain the program won't be too much for your dog. It is always better to go slowly, and build that athlete in wholesome, natural ways.


A pull dog who is trained properly, and built slowly will relish the chance to give it all he's got to out show the competition. Remember, this isn't something you can do on the weekends. Just like getting yourself in shape, if you don't have the time to dedicate every day to the conditioning and training this athlete will require, this may not be for you. That's ok, there are so many different dog sports out there, you're bound to find one that suits both your personalities.


There are several different clubs and organizations that now offer Weight Pull as a positive outlet for a strong dogs energy and strength. The United Kennel Club (UKC), the American Pulling Alliance (APA), the International Weight Pull Association (IWPA) and the Global Pulling Alliance (GPA) are all available online for your informational resources. There are also some breed specific weight pull clubs out there as well. The St. Bernard Club of America, and the Alaskan Malamute Club of America host events in different states most of the year. Do some digging and see if your dog has a club near you.


If you are interested in getting your dog started, visit a competition without your dog. This will give you a chance to check it out as a spectator. You'll be able to ask questions, meet some people, and see it this is the sport for you.

The Unprepared Rescuer

Whew! January just flew by!  I have recently been through a bit of a roller coaster ride, but fear not Dear Readers, I am still here.  My rant of this day concerns Humans with the best of intentions, but absolutely no common sense.  Yes, yes, I fear there are a lot of them out there; we've all probably been guilty ourselves at one point or another.  I would specifically like to address the issue of The Unprepared Rescuer.

What is an Unprepared Rescuer?
Someone who sees an animal in need, and takes it.  No matter what kind of home situation they may have at their own place, they "rescue" this animal, and then bring it home.  They usually have a Love is Enough philosophy.  Anyone who has read any of my other posts most likely knows by now that is certainly is not enough, and that a lot can go in to helping a physically, or emotionally damaged animal.  Especially a Dog.

They don't bother with any kind of Decompression Stage for the dog, and they don't take any precautions to acclimate this rescue to their new home, or the other animals, or children in it.  The Unprepared Rescuer is usually short on crates, or doesn't believe in them, and places these new animals in potentially fatal situations with their other dogs.  Now, this may not apply if the Unprepared Rescuer does not have any other pets, or kids, and in that case it may become a learning experience that both Human and Dog can grow in together.  I am referring to these things I see on Facebook, or these kind-hearted Humans who have to invite me over to help, after the dog has done something they can't take back.

In one recent posting, an Unprepared Rescuer had brought in an animal from a situation where bad things were happening; evidenced by scars all over this dog's head. Apparently this is an unaltered animal, and this dog had killed one of the other dogs in the house.  Resulting in this poor dog being chained in the backyard.  Not ok.  Read further down the post comments, and it is revealed that the dog was "doing fine" until she had puppies......really?!?  I do not know if the dog was pregnant when  "rescued" or if this was something that happened because this person who wanted to "save" this dog from the abuse she was suffering did not take her other dogs into account.  This is a sad story that could have been prevented.

The Unprepared Rescuer in this case most likely should have taken this dog to a shelter facility.  Yes, there is a high possibility that this dog would not make it out of the shelter alive (she is a pitbull), but now she is on a chain in someone's backyard.  Square one.  Or perhaps the dog would have been in a better way, had this Human had her spayed (again, I don't know enough to understand how this dog came to be pregnant), done a crate and rotate, and allowed this dog to properly decompress before allowing any free-time to be spent with the other animals in the home.

As a Professional, I know there were most likely other warning signs that this dog was headed into a problem, but they were either ignored, or just not noticed by the Human.  This is understandable, I do not expect everyone to be as obsessed with the subtleties of dog body language as I am, that's my job. But expecting a dog who came from a bad place to not have some kind of issue with some things....well.....

In other cases, I see Humans with big hearts taking on a dog who "would have been put down" if not for their big hearts.  That's fantastic, but if it's too much for you, it is not helping the dog at all.  And it certainly isn't helping you.  Or dogs invited into homes and turned loose with toddlers, only to bite them, and now it's the dog's fault.  Nope.  You, kind Human, did not take any time to see if that dog would be alright with the kids being so close to him.

Still others take in more animals then they can afford, and that animal who started out in a bad situation has now jumped to one where veterinary care, or even food is in short supply because someone's heart outweighed their common sense.

I am not saying you should ignore an animal who needs you.  Far from it.  Please do.  Make that choice and save that dog.  Bring that dog home.  But do some research on it as soon as possible! Place the rescue in a safe, peaceful place, away from your chaos.  Use a crate, and if you are violently opposed to the idea of a "cage" for this animal you know nothing about, then at least keep them in a room by themselves for a bit until they can decompress.  Remember that article from zenpetsupples.com about how to properly introduce a new dog to your existing dog?  No?  Here, copy and paste into your browser if you'd like to check it out:

 http://blog.zenpetsupplies.com/introducing-a-new-dog-to-the-house/

I know a woman who is a virtual magnet for stray dogs.  She is a Professional Dog Walker/Pet Sitter, and it seems every time she leaves the house (practically) she finds another dog who needs her.  She is what I like to call The Perfectly Prepared Rescuer.  For instance, she once found a dog at a public park who was too afraid to be caught.  She worked in conjunction with Animal Control, and other people to help her over a few weeks to finally catch this dog.

After catching him (FINALLY) she took him home; to her finished basement where she had set up a kennel, and had that inside a room with a closing door.  She then also had her husband (bless this man!) put a swinging door at the bottom of the stairs, so that in case someone forgot to shut the door at the top of the stairs, there was another stop between this dog and the rest of her house.

Over the next weeks, she rotated this dog with her other three dogs so that if he was in the backyard, the others were in the house.  Again, with more than one door to separate them.  As this progressed, she got helpers to start walking him around ONE of her dogs at a time....Can you see where this is going?  She took her time to ensure the rescued guy could integrate in a slow fashion, and now he is a loved member of the pack.

Your dogs see any new dog as an outsider.  Even though you may have a huge heart, (I know I have made myself late to work a time or two because I was catching a dog on the side of the road) and you just have to Rescue that dog....Think about all that will entail, and get some help.  You aren't alone in this.  As a community, dog people are usually pretty eager to help.

We can feel like a judgmental bunch sometimes, but just as The Unprepared Rescuer, our hearts are in the right place.  Ignoring that growl, or that snap, or that cowering in the corner because you think Love is Enough, and You Can Do It Yourself, is foolish.

It's not the Same Dog: Why comparing your new adoptee to your old Angel, just isn't fair.

You've adopted something different this go 'round. You've decided to 'try' a new breed, or something caught your eye at the shelter, and you weren't expecting it to, but you now have an entirely new dog, with an entirely different personality in your life, and you may be having second thoughts. Don't worry, this is natural. Especially if you are accustomed to a certain 'kind' of dog, and now this 'new gal' seems to be presenting all kinds of 'bad' behavior, or behavior that you just have never experienced before.

As we've talked about before, the good news is, your proper handling and training can usually trump anything that is cropping up. The “bad” news, you have to throw the idea that this dog will be anything like your old dog out the window. Throw it far, and throw it hard, because this is a new beast. It's kind of like dating someone new...You know your new partner is a Human (or at least, you hope they are) but they are so different than your last. You can't help but compare them somewhat, but the future of your relationship is bound to go up in flames if you do not let go of the prior experience. Not to mention, your new partner is sick and tired of hearing about your ex.....


You chose a different dog because something caught your eye. Something in that dog touched your soul, for a reason. Someone told me once “You always wind up with the dog you need,” and I feel like this is so very true. You may not feel the all encompassing love you harbor for your ol' friend, but one day, that new dog is going to do something that will make your heart swell (if they haven't already) and you will know you did the right thing. For now, realizing she is a completely strange animal to you, and being ok with that, will greatly help your chances.


I hated one of my dogs when we first brought him home. Sure, my daughter picked him out, but ultimately, I (being the responsible parent-figure) made the decision to pull him from the city pound. Something about him made me smile.  So after spending an hour and a half with him at the shelter, I went home and picked up the rest of the family to return and adopt him.

He was horrid!  He wasn't housebroken at 2.5 years old; he was extremely dog aggressive; he ran away any chance he could slip out the door; he destroyed the house and got into the trash; he ate lego pieces; he chased our cat; worst of all, he bit my kid hard enough to break skin.  I resented him not only for his personality, but also because I was grieving so deeply for my old dog.  I wasn't ready for another dog. 

This poor guy was just being himself, and here I was hating him because he was so very different from my perfect pitbull.  He was just wrong all the way around.....He wasn't responding to me the way I expected him to (I'd been working many clients' dogs, but have personally only owned pitbulls for years) I even tried to convince my family that we may need to return him, or home him, or something, after the biting incident.  He had awakened the Momma Bear in me, and I was concerned he'd hurt someone.  My frustrations only made him worse.  My family wasn't helping adhere to the rules he needed to be better, and I was feeling like a failure as a Dog Teacher because of this little 35 pound monster. 

When I talked to my family about him, and told them we should find a different situation for him, they told me the best piece of advise I've ever heard in my life:


"We don't give up on family."


wow......................what a jerk I was.  I realized the very piece of advise I am sharing with you, dear Reader and Dog Lover.  He was not the same dog as my angel, and I was putting too much pressure on a rescue animal with a past I knew nothing about, to shape up in My Time.  I was demanding he change and do things My Way, as my previous dog had so easily done.  I was blinded by my grief.  Not fair.

After this painful realization, I took a deep breath and a few steps back.  Instead of seeing him as this huge problem, I tried to see him as just another client.  This helped me to see what was really going on....I was the problem.  Not him.  He forced me to become a better, more objective Dog Teacher.  He taught me (and is STILL teaching) to be creative and patient in my methods.

I love pitbulls because they will do what you ask.  Once you teach them something, it is usually there for life, and they have this gigantic heart full of love; this heart makes them want to be with you and to please you.  This dog was, and still is, extremely self-serving.  But because I was finally seeing him for Who he is, instead of Who I Wanted Him to Be, and accepting him for that, we were finally getting somewhere.

He used to snarl and jump away if you tried to pet him while he slept....these days, he's one of the most loving, cuddly guys I've ever met. 

His intelligence blows my mind.   He learns anything I decide to teach him.  He still makes me nuts some days (these are usually times I tell him that his Jack Russell is showing).  He talks to me, a lot.  He watches out for his "brother," who eats things that aren't edible...Most recently, out of what I thought to be a deep sleep, he hopped off the couch, disappeared for a moment and returned with 3/4's of a soaking wet tennis ball that his brother was devouring.  This he deposited in my lap and immediately curled up to sleep again. 

The point is, I had to let go of my preconceptions of what he should be, so he could be what he was for Real.  He is amazing.  And after three and a half years, I love him fiercely.  He is still not anything like my other dog, but he is amazing in ways so different from her.  He taught me to be a better person. 

So take a good look at that dog you've chosen, and take a step back.  Realize they are coming from a place you will never know.  Get to know this animal as an individual.  Contact a Teacher and figure out a better way to communicate with that Dog.  I promise, you'll figure out why your inner Self chose that one.  I promise you won't be disappointed.

Special Thanks to my dear friend, Kathrine, for telling me he was the dog I needed, 

when I was at my most frustrated with this guy.